1979 Rioja Bordón Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Españolas

1979 Rioja Bordón Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Españolas
A finely matured nose with notes of cooked strawberries, smoke, dill oil, shoe cream and wet earth. Complex and fine. Holds all night long.
The taste is round, silky and dry with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, cooked root vegetables and moist earth. A long finish with a fine warmth. Very, very good. Has probably been mature for some years but bottles like this could be drunk with pleasure for another 5+ years.
88p   (tasted 2019/02)

2004 Fontalloro, Fèlsina

2004 Fontalloro, Fèlsina
After 15 years under the cork this is ready for prime time drinking. The nose is open, inviting and attractive with notes of cherry licorice, dried rosemary, cold coffe, rich flowers and those lovely aromas of a warm Tuscan gravel road in the summer. A very fine maturity. A very fine dried up sweetness. Lovely.
The taste is mature yet fresh and salivating with notes of dried cherries, warm tiles, bonfire smoke and dried herbs. There is a hint of unresolved tannins at the end of the finish. Succulent and fine. In a perfect drinking window.
92p   (tasted 2019/02)

2013 Barolo Villero - Eight Bottles Tasted

I love the 2013 vintage in Barolo. I have previously written this about the vintage:

What to say about the vintage then? The one thing that striked us when tasting these wines is that - even though there are minor and major differences between for example the wines from La Morra compared to the ones from Serralunga or the differences between upbringing in old Slavonian oak or barriques (although the major part of the producers that have been using barriques are cutting down on the time the wines spends in them or abandoning them altogether) - all wines showed a racy, energetic freshness.

They are more floral than usual, the red fruits are more forward (especially strawberries - some are almost Burgundian like), there is a sweet/sour sensation to the fruit that is really fine, the tannins are sappy and very silky, and they are very fresh, lively, vibrant and almost gulpable.

Are these wines for the short term then? They will not need as much time as the 2006 or 2010 to come around, but make no mistake, even though they seem almost ligth and airy there are more stuffing to them than are immediate noticable. I must confess being smitten by this vintage and will buy plenty (update - I have...).

2013 Barolo Villero
I had amassed bottles from all (but one, Pugnane Fratelli Sordo) wine growers that bottle a Villero (except for those that only make a Riserva, Franco Molino and Vietti (from 2015/2016 there are two more producers that will release a Villero, Francesco Sobrero (only Riserva) and Angelo Germano)).
It turned out to be a interesting tasting, held in May of last year.

Villero lies in Castiglione Falletto, the area is 22,07 ha and Nebbiolo makes up 90% of the vines. Alessandro Masnaghetti describes Villero´s soil with "the typical marls of Castiglione Falletto, which give....more structure and less finesse".
That turned out to be a fair assessment. These were no upfront charmers, but more restrained and backward, more earthy and mineraly than fruit forward and floral.
However, I will venture that will age well and become more open and inviting in due course,

Flight I
2013 Barolo Villero, Sordo

A dark fruity, seedy nose with notes of spices, licorice, asphalt and chrushed rocks. Medium deep.

The taste is tight and structured with notes of spices, earth, dried red fruits and bakelite. Long and seedy. Closed. Definitely needs time, 8+ years.

87p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Oddero

On the nose there are some cool mixed red fruits alongside notes of earth, clay, dark roses and tobacco. Very, very good.

The taste is pure and racy with notes of red currants, plums, earth and a hint of mint. Long and balanced. Tight tannins. This is really fine and will become even better with 5+ years in the cellar.

92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Giuseppe Mascarello

A cool, restrained nose with a light earthy character and notes of red currants, red tea, bakelite and forest floor. An understated elegance. Very, very good.

The taste is cool, deceptively light (the only wine with ”just” 13,5% alcohol) with fine red fruit notes, sandy tannins and a long, balanced finish. For drinking now and the coming 10 years. Lovely.

92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Livia Fontana

The Fontana displays an open, warm nose with notes of soot, dried red fruit, tobacco and earth. A fine warmth. Round and fairly generous.

The taste is more tight than the nose leads you to believe, with structured tannins, ripe cherry fruit and a long, concentrated finish. 4+ years.

89p   (tasted 2018/05)

Flight II
2013 Barolo Villero, Fenocchio

A deep, fine, flowery nose with notes of dried roses, red currants, clay and dry tobacco. A fine balsamic note. Very deep and fine.

The taste is concentrated and focused with notes of ripe red cherries, forest floor, asphalt, minerals and tobacco. Very long and intense. Finely polished tannins. Wait 5+ years and this will be spectacular.

93p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Enrico VI, Cordero di Montezemolo

A whole other ballgame! Oak, lots of oak, in an oaked Rioja style… Very ripe cherry fruit, spices and earth, but its covered by the oak.

The taste is dry and warm with lots of oak and cherry fruit. On this occasion, not good. (I retasted all wines two days after and then the oak had drastically subdued and the fruit came forward much more.) But on the night in question it will get

84p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Brovia

Brovia has fashioned a stunning Villero, with a deep, balanced, complex nose with notes of violets, roses, paint and masses of ripe red currants and red cherries. A touch of bonfire after a while. Handsome. Really fine.

The taste is concentrated and racy with notes of chrushed rocks, dried red fruits, clay, a hint of tobacco and roses. The tannins are perfectly polished. Very, very young still, this beauty needs 7+ years.

95p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Boroli

A deep, spicy nose with notes of forest floor, dried strawberries, moist earth and a touch of dog fur. A tad burly in a good way.

The taste is dark and tight with notes of red cherries, mushrooms, tobacco and earth. Some rustic tannins. Long and warm. Very good. 6+ years.

88p   (tasted 2018/05)

Drinking Tonight - 2007 Volnay, Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

2007 Volnay, Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
A fine, open, earthy nose with notes of dried strawberries, spices, ripe parsnips, blood oranges and some animal scents lingering in the background. A fine sweetness. Smoky aromas after some time in the glass. A lovely round maturity.
The taste is medium bodied, velvety and fine with notes of dried raspberries, autumn leaves, earth, dried up cookie dough and hints of raspberry vinegar. A well suited acidity that brings a harmonious ending. Fully mature and drinking fine.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)

Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys In Piedmont April 2018 - Part One - Visits To Abbona, Luigi Einaudi & Brovia

These notes have been lying around for too long. But now when The Barolo Boys have booked their next trip to heaven on earth (we are going in late March!) I thought it was time to get myself together and write down my impression from our trip in April 2018. More to follow.

Abbona
Our second visit to Abbona, the last one was eight years ago. We met up with a very nice and knowledgeable member of the Abbona staff but I regrettably didn´t wrote down his name.., who showed us the new cellars (at least new since our last visit) and then poured a range of fine wines.

Some wines for us to taste...

2016 Cinerino
A 100% Viognier brought up in Accacia wood, a popular vessel nowadays for white wines. The nose is open and fruity with notes of passionfruit, toothpaste, warm rocks and incense. A tad heavy.
The taste is broad and deep with notes of ripe peach, grilled lemons and minerals. Juicy and good but, for me, the acidity is too low.
84p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Dogliabo Papà Celso
This Dolcetto comes from 25 year old vines and is a stunner. The nose is young and inky with notes of ripe blueberries, smoke, herbs and dark rubber. Intense and fine.
The taste is racy and lip smacking good with notes of ripe blueberries, ink, thyme and warm tiles. A medium long, balanced finish with some perky tannins. Really good.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Rinaldi
Rinaldi is the name of the vineyard. This Barbera sports a warm, spicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, licorice and undergrowth. A fine warmth.
The taste is big and forward with notes of raspberry licorice, herbs and a hint of chocolate. A long, warm finish with a good acidity. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Nebbiolo d´Alba Bricco Barone
The Nebbiolo´s from 2016 indicates what we can look forward to in 2020 when the 16 Baroli will be released and its going to be goooood... The nose of this Nebbiolo is cool, restrained and balanced with notes of rose petals, red cherries, asphalt and forest floor. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and refined with notes of red cherries, lingonberries, mushrooms and rosehips. Finely polished tannins. Very fine.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo
As with some other producers Abbona doesn´t produce the cru´s in 14, just this blend that has a light, spicy nose with notes of fir wood, dried herbs, ripening cherries and gravel. Very nice.
The taste is young and sprawly and shows a good lingonberry/cherry fruit alongside notes of dry licorice and gravel. For drinking while we wait for the 13´s. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)

2011 Barolo Ravera
The 11 Ravera displays an open, generous nose with notes of dark cherries, soya, moist undergrowth and some animal scents. Very, very good.
The taste is warm and rounf with notes of sweet red cherries, Finnish licorice, fried mushrooms and bakelite. Ready for action and I will take that action any day. A bit idiosyncratic but highly likeable.
91p   (tasted 2018/04)

2012 Barolo Pressenda

A deep, finely tuned nose with notes of smoke, ripe cherries, tobacco and warm sand. Deep floral notes after some time in the glass. Very fine.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe black cherries, tobacco, rust and dried flowers. A long, structured finish. 5+ years. 

92p   (tasted 2018/04)

2011 Barolo Cerviano

The first Cerviano was bottled in 2004 and this vintage is my first taste of this cru. Brought up as a Riserva but it is not stated on the label.

The nose is deep and fine with notes of dried strawberries, smoke, autumn leaves and some balsmic notes. Very fine. A lovely perfumed aroma. 

The taste is cool and refined with notes of wild strawberries, dried rose petals, a hint of tobacco and mushrooms. Complex and fine. Very long and balanced. Great wine. 3+ years.

94p   (tasted 2018/04)

Poderi Luigi Einaudi

My first visit to this estate. We were meet by Vittoria Abbona who showed us the beautiful cellars and the surroundings, among them a bottle shaped pool! We then got to taste the following wines.

2016 Dogliano Superiore Vigna Tecc

An open, seedy nose with refreshing herbal scents and a fine mix of raspberries and blueberries. Some iron and violets also emerges from the glass. Energetic.
The taste is cool and tight with notes of blueberries, ink, chrushed rocks and herbs. Juicy and very fine.

88p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Ludo
A perfumed, fine nose with notes of damson, ripe flowers, rosehips and soap. A bit on the light side but with a fine sappy fruit.
The taste is medium bodied and tense with notes of ripe lingonberries, forest floor, dried flowers and gravel. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Terlo Vigna Santa Grimaldi

Only 5.706 bottles of this beauty was produced in this difficult vintage. The nose is deep and uplifting with notes of dark berries, iron, rosehips, asphalt and warm sand. High and pure. Very, very good.
The taste is sandy and spicy with notes of hard cherry candy, iron, sand and dark flowers. A long, seedy, tight finish. Needs 4+ years. Really fine.

92p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Cannubi

Aaaah Cannubi! The name alone promises a treat, and the one from Einaudi delieveres the goods. The nose is darker and deeper than the Terlo and offers up aromas of fresh herbs, ripe black cherries, moist forest floor, tobacco and warm tiles. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of cherry licorice, tobacco, asphalt and herbs, rosemary in particular. The finish is long and structured. Will need 8+ years. There is more stuffing here for the future but for today it is on the same level as the Terlo.

92p   (tasted 2018/04)

2012 Barolo Cannubi

Does the Pope wear a funny hat? That was the response I almost gave when Vittoria asked if we were interested in tasting another vintage of the Cannubi...
The 12 Cannubi has a deep, dark floral nose with notes of violets, moist earth, rosemary, veal stock and warm sand. A very fine warmth. Fairly open for business. Very fine.
The taste is concentrated and sandy with notes of ripe red cherries, iron, undergrowth, bakelite and asphalt. Very fine polished tannins. A very fine warmth in the long finish. I would say that it would benefit of 3+ years in the cellar but there is no denying its charm and drinkability today.

93p   (tasted 2018/04)

Brovia

It is always a treat to visit Brovia and meet up with Alex, one of the most charming winemaker in the region. This time we got a preview of two of the 15 Baroli alongside some other stunning wines.

2016 Dolcetto d´Alba Vignavillej

Not bottled yet, this gorgeous Serralunga Dolcetto leaps up from the glass with aromas of earth, ripening blueberries, heather, herbs and violets. Very fresh and racy.
The taste is sandy and fresh with a mix of lingonberries and blueberries alongside notes of whitepeppar, chrushed rocks and herbs. Very handsome.

90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Sori del Drago

An open, direct nose with notes of ripe raspberries, licorice, balsa wood and sunwarm rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is energetic and fresh with notes of raspberries with some blueberries tossed in, sweet minerals, licorice and a hint of tobacco. A very fine acidity. Every sip leaves you wanting one more!

91p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Ciaböt del Fi

Just wooow! The best Barbera I have ever tasted (until tasting Aldo Conterno´s 2016 in November 2018, note will soon be posted). The nose is just brilliant with energy, depth and balance. Boatloads of raspberry truffles, dark biscuits, red beets, blood and smoke. Very, very deep and intense.
The taste is deceptively light to drink despite its intensity, power and structure. Perfectly ripe raspberries, Finnish licorice, pipe tobacco, sweet violets and iron are just a few notes that got jotted down. Absolutely stunning!

95p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Unio

Alex also decided to not bottle any cru´s in 2014, so this Unio is the only Barolo produced. The nose is medium deep, finely tuned and racy with notes of hard cherry candy, earth, red beets and wild roses. Very fragrant.
The taste is a bit restrained but show of fine notes of red cherries, ripe lingonberries, earth and dried herbs. A fine structure that needs 3+ years to open up. Very, very good.

90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

A pure, dense, focused nose with notes of ripe red cherries, cool tobacco, rosehips, paint and fir wood. Full of finesse and intensity. Very, very deep. Balanced. Just lovely.
This wine has a gorgeous mouthfeel, a lot of power yet with a balance and tension that makes you want to take sip after sip. A stunning wine. From vines planted in 1966 and 68. 8+ years.

96p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Villero

The 15 Villero is even better. From 1,5 ha planted in 1961 and 63. The nose is bottomless deep with haunting notes of dried raspberries, fir wood, dry tobacco, licorice and a ever so slight hint of mint. Marvellous!
The taste is brilliantly pure and racy with notes of black cherries, raspberries, smoke, violets and minty herbs. The finish goes on and on and on. A must have!

97p   (tasted 2018/04)

2012 Barolo Cannubi, Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno

2012 Barolo Cannubi, Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno
This is a fine old school Barolo with a young, pure nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, paint, rosehips, forest floor and dry licorice. A fine warmth. Very, very good.
The taste is even better with a racy structure and notes of dried strawberries, mushrooms, band aid and earth. A long finish with taut tannins. Like chewing on a peach kernel. Really fine. Give this 6+ years in the cellar.
91p   (tasted 2019/02)

1999 - 2008 Barolo Pressenda & 2004 Barolo Terlo Ravera, Abbona

These tasting notes has been lying around for some time but now I got around to write this tasting up. S invited and poured these bottles alongside some yummy food.

2004 Barolo Terlo Ravera, Abbona
A cool, deep, seedy nose with notes of ripe red cherries, fresh herbs, rosehip and asphalt. A hint of maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is high and concentrated with notes of red beets, ripe red cherries, earth and some cold coffee. Very long. Still have places to go, give it 5+ years. Very fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Barolo Pressenda, Abbona
The 99 reveals a fine, sweet maturity with notes of dried up cherry jam, undergrowth, mushrooms stock and licorice. Very, very good. Open and inviting.
The taste is tighter and leaner than the nose leads you to believe, with notes of dried cherries, asphalt, tobacco and leather. A long, mature finish with a fine warmth. Mature but will go on on this level for 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

2000 Barolo Pressenda, Abbona
A deep, concentrated nose with notes of mint covered cherries, bonfire smoke, sweet tobacco and a very fine floral aroma. Really good.
The taste is tight and linear with notes of scorched earth, dried cherries, leather and rosehips. A long, warm finish. A tad marked by the hot years, but this is a very, very good Barolo in a prime drinking phase.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2001 Barolo Pressenda, Abbona
2001 is one of my favourite vintages, and the Pressenda delievers the goods. The nose is high and pure with only glimpses of maturity, and notes of ripe red cherries, rose petals, violets, licorice and forest floor. Very deep and refined. Just lovely.
The taste is intense and focused with notes of sweet cherries, licorice, mushrooms, dried flowers and tar. A very fine balance. Still some polished tannins in the long finish. +4 years.
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

2003 Barolo Pressenda, Abbona
Another hot vintage and another fine Pressenda. The nose is deep and warm with notes of raspberry licorice, bonfire smoke, undergrowth, dried flowers and rosehips. Very, very good.
The taste is forward and mouth filling with notes of ripe cherries, Finnish licorice, dried flowers and warm gravel. A long finish with a fine dried up warmth. For drinking within the next 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

2004 Barolo Pressenda, Abbona
The nose of the 04 Pressenda is deep and dense with notes of rosehips, red tea, raspberries, tobacco and fir wood. A tad laid back but very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, ink, tobacco, licorice and sunwarm asphalt. Very long and intense. Needs 6+ years in the cellar. Lots of potential.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2008 Barolo Pressenda, Abbona
A high, smoky nose with notes of ripe red cherries, raspberry licorice, forest floor, herbs and granite. Very deep and fine.
The taste is taut and structured with notes of ripe cherries, mushrooms, violets, rosehips and asphalt. Very long and tight. Sandy tannins in the finish. Very fine. Needs 6+ years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)

Gosset Champagne - Nine Wines Tasted

The other day I was invited by Divine to taste a range from Gosset. Nicolas Cauchios from Gosset presented the wines with charm and wit.

NV Extra Brut
This used to be called Excellence but from last year it is called Extra Brut. This 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier blend has a delicate, light, inviting nose with notes of yellow flowers, detergent and smoke. Salivating and fine.
The taste is dry and fresh with notes of chalk, lemon zest and summer flowers. A fine acidity that cleans up the palate. Despite the blend I find more Chardonnay notes in the wine. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/01)

NV Grande Réserve Brut
The Grande Réserve shows a fresh, open nose with notes of peach, earthy flowers and potatoe water. Luscious and fine.
The taste is steely and mineral laden with notes of red currants, peach and dry caramel. A focused finish. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/01)

NV Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut
Raciness and refinement, that is what greats you when you put your nose in the glass. Notes of white currants, French nougat and rain-wet asphalt flows up from the glass. Lovely.
The taste is high and fine with a steely character and notes of summer flowers, lemon cream and chalk. Very pure. Delicious.
93p   (tasted 2019/01)

NV Grand Blanc de Meunier Extra Brut
A very fine, open, appealing nose with notes of ripe red apples, dark cookie dough, spices (especially a hint of black pepper) and fine floral aromas. This is a stunner!
The taste is refined and racy with notes of red currants, clay, dried flowers and some tawny biscuit notes coming through at the end. A high acidity that balances the fruit perfectly. Very complex. Great wine. The baseyear of this beauty and the Blanc de Noir below is 2007.
94p   (tasted 2019/01)

NV Grand Blanc de Noir Extra Brut
The Blanc de Noir displays a deep, refined nose with notes of sweet minerals, salmiak, red currants and a hint of dark chocolate. Very, very fine.
The taste is high and tight with notes of iron, red currants, earth and a hint of blueberries. Very long. Lots of power but it doesn´t have the charm of the Meuiner. Needs 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/01)

2006 Grand Millésime Brut
This 12 year old Champagne presents itself with a deep, somewhat mature nose with notes of sea sand, oranges, spices and decaying flowers. Open and fine.
The taste is elegant and stony with notes of red currants, chrushed rocks, smoke and dried flowers. A good acidity. Very, very good but it lacks a bit of oomph for a vintage.
90p   (tasted 2019/01)

2007 Celebris Extra Brut
This is a keeper! The nose is very deep, focused and handsome with notes of rhubarb, freshly washed clothes, smoke, ripe flowers, chalk and spices. Just lovely.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of sun warm rocks, red currants, iron, spices and almond paste. The finish goes on and on and the palate is cleansed by a high, balanced acidity. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2019/01)

NV Grand Rosé Brut
A mineraly, stony nose with additional notes of lingonberries, tiles, dry spices and a hint of cool tobacco.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of earth, dried strawberries and asphalt. A tad foursquare. Good acidity.
87p   (tasted 2019/01)

2007 Celebris Rosé Extra Brut
The Rosé version of Celebris is also a splendid wine. The nose is deep and refined with notes of dried wild strawberries, iron, ripe red currants, spices and forest floor. Ethereal. Really fine.
The taste is tight and racy with notes of dried flowers, iron, sunwarm rocks, spices and a gorgeous mix of strawberries, raspberries and red currants. Very long and intense. A firm spine. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/01)