Wednesday, 6 March 2019

Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys In Piedmont April 2018 - Part Four - Visits To Paitin, Giuseppe Mascarello, Bartolo Mascarello & Luigi Pira


Another day in Paradise, more people to meet and wines to taste!

Paitin
My first visit to this Barbaresco producer but hopefully not my last, for they produce some really fine Nebbiolo´s. We were greated by Luca and he showed us the cellars before we took place in the tasting room and really enjoyed ourselves.


The Paitin estate was founded in 1796!

2013 Barbera d´Alba Campolive
The nose is open and fine with notes of fried nuts, raspberry licorice and assorted spices.
The taste is fresh and fine with a very good acidity and a notes of dried raspberries, red beets and dry licorice. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/04)



2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Ca Veja
The 15 Ca Veja sports a herbal, warm nose with notes of red cherries, undergrowth, dried flowers and a hit of chili! Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fine-limbed with notes of rosehips, red cherries, gravel and dry licorice. Long and fine. 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)



2014 Barbaresco Serraboella
The nose is low keyes and elegant with notes of hard cherry candy, toasted almonds, herbs and a hint of tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is handsome and refined with notes of roses, mushrooms, red cherries and tobacco. Polished tannins in the long finish. 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barbaresco Sori` Paitin
This is a beauty with depth and intensity. Fine notes of ripe red cherries, warm sand, sandelwood and rosehips. Crisp. Just lovely.
The taste is silky and persistent with notes of hard cherry candy, chalk, undergrowth and a hint of tar. Very long and lingering. Great wine. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)


2004 Barbaresco Sori` Paitin
The vines in Sori`Paitin is 43 years old. The 04 has a deep, somewhat mature nose with gorgeous notes of dried up cherry jam, iron, Finnish licorice and old leather. Very fine.
The taste is mature and balanced with a fine driep up sweetness and notes of dried cherries, tobacco, asphalt and iron. Very long. Just lovely to drink now and the coming 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)


Father & son

2004 Barbaresco Sori` Paitin Vecche Vigne

65 year old vines! This is a marvellous wine. The nose is deep and focused with notes of old leather, hard cherry candy, furniture polish, dried rose petals and ceps. A hint of maturity but this will go on for ages.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dried flowers, red cherries, sandelwood, Finnish licorice, forest floor and even a hint of mint. Very, very long and energetic. Still needs 6+ years in the cellar. Brilliant.
95p   (tasted 2018/04)


Produced since 1893! We tried to persuade Luca to take the Coravin to this bottle.....:-)

Giuseppe Mascarello

Only my second visit to this revered estate and the first time I had the pleasure to meet Elena, daughter of Mauro and Maria Teresa Mascarello.



2016 Dolcetto d´Alba Vigna Santo Stefano di Perno
A delicate, open nose with notes of blueberries, smoke, chrushed rocks and licorice. Very, very good.
The taste is fresh and tight with notes of blueberries, bay leaves, gravel and a hint of tobacco. Juicy tannins. Very fine. According to Elena this Dolcetto grows on soil perfect for Barolo, but they make Dolcetto!
90p   (tasted 2018/04)



2015 Langhe Freisa Toetto
A linear, dry nose with notes of ripening lingonberries, bakelite and earth. A tad hollow.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of lingonberries, gravel and moist earth. Noticable tannins. Long. Very good but me and Freisa can´t seem to work things out...
86p   (tasted 2018/04)

2010 Barolo Riserva Ca d`Morissio
This bottle had been open for two days and Elena didn´t think it was really up to par. But I liked it! The nose is a bit subdued but very deep and displays fine notes of ripe cherries, fir wood, rosehips and forest floor. Refined and with lots of character.
The taste is concentrated and almost inky with notes of ripe cherries, dried up raspberry jam, licorice, paint and dry tobacco. A very fine finish, although a bit short. I guess a freshly opened bottle would have rocked my world.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)




2013 Barolo Monprivato
A low keyed yet intense nose with notes of fresh cherry fruit, forest floor, spice, incense and rosehips. Some balsamic aromas. Very fine.
The taste is high, tight and fine with notes of hard cherry candy, forest floor, spices, dried flowers and sand. Very, very long. Needs 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)


Bartolo Mascarello
Back with Maria Teresa, a must when visiting Piedmont! Always a treat!

2015 Freisa
Maria Teresas Freisa is earthy and pure with notes of red currants, red apples, dusty earth and stables.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of red currants, cranberries, earth and bakelite. As I said regarding Giuseppe Mascarellos version above, me and Freisa haven´t (yet?) connected.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)


All mine.... :-)

2014 Barolo
The last vintage with the ordinary blend of vineyards. San Lorenzo is having the vines replanted so a part in Bussia will replace it from 2015 onwards.
The 14 Barolo sports a high, low keyed intense nose with notes of minerals, red cherries, paint, incense and chrushed rocks. Very handsome.
The taste is racy and elegant with notes of red currants, minerals, dried rose petals and incense. Finely balanced. Just lovely. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)

2013 Barolo 
Tasted with Maria Teresa six months ago and it is as great as then. Maybe it has closed up just a tad, but oooh boy, this is a stunning Barolo. 8+ years.
96p   (tasted 2018/04)




2015 Langhe Nebbiolo
It says Langhe Nebbiolo on the label but lots and lots of producers would be proud if this could be their Barolo. Sucked up on the market on release, almost impossible to find (only 3.500 - 4.000 bt/year), but if you find it, buy it!
The nose is deep, warm and spicy with notes of raspberries, bay leaves, forest floor, hand cream and a hint of dog fur (in a positive sense!). Very fine.
The taste is delicious and harmonious with notes of ripe red cherries, balsa wood, earth and fresh herbs. Long and luscious. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)


Luigi Pira
It is always a treat to visit Gianpaolo and taste these great Serralunga wines!

Disclaimer - the importer of Marengo and Luigi Pira to Sweden (Origo Wines) are friends of mine and co founders of The illustrious Barolo Boys. I, however, have no financial interests in these wines, I just call them as I see them.

2017 Dolcetto d´Alba
The 17 Dolcetto brims with life in the shape of a luscious nose with notes of ripe blueberries, spices, iron and gravel. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and inky with notes of blood & iron, blueberries, violets and gravel. Very structured. A real Serralunga Dolcetto, maybe the best ever from Gianpaolo.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)


2016 Barbera d´Alba Superiore
A cool, spicy nose with notes of raspberries and blackberries with licorice, chrushes rocks and fir wood. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and warm with notes of spicy raspberries, licorice and a hint of dark chocolate. A very fine acidity. Long.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo
As fine as when tasted six months ago. 2016 is going to turn out greeeeaaaat!
92p   (tasted 2018/04)



2014 Barolo Serralunga
Also tasted six months ago, this blend of all the cru´s is a really great wine and it will be fun following this over the coming 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/04)


The 2015 Baroli 
I had the exact same scores for the 15 cru´s as in November 2016. The only exception was the 15 Serralunga which I found even better than the last time.

2016 Barolo Serralunga
On to the the 16´s! The Serralunga is young, perky and polished with notes of ripe cherries, gravel, dry licorice and hand cream. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and primary with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, veal stock and forest floor. This is really fine.
~92p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barolo Margheria
Just wooow! The 16 Margheria is a stunner, with gorgeous notes red licorice, ripe flowers, mushrooms and chrushed rocks. Very deep and impressive.
The taste is deep, flowery and multi layered with notes of cherry youghurt, chrushed rocks, licorice, dried flowers and mushrooms. Oooh, so complex and fine. The best Margheria ever.
~95p   (tasted 2018/04)




2016 Barolo Marenca
The 16 Marenca is deep, dark and almost dangerous....with notes of undegrowth, asphalt, very ripe red cherries and furniture polish. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of dark cherries, asphalt, rosehips and tar. The finish goes of for minutes. Stunning, but needs 6+ years in the cellar.
~93p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barolo Vigna Rionda
What about the Vigna Rionda then? A marvel (as asual)! The nose is deep and aristocratic with tight notes of cherry licorice, tar, ripe flowers, smoke and expensive tobaco. Very, very fine.
The taste is brilliant and complex with notes of hard cherry candy, tonacco, bakelite, paint and fir wood. The finish goes on and on and on. This is a real stunner. 10+ years.
~97p   (tasted 2018/04)



Monday, 4 March 2019

2016 Lytton Springs, Ridge


2016 Lytton Springs, Ridge
This 71% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah and 6% Carignane sports a rich, spicy, outgoing nose with notes of blackberries, ripe blueberries, granite, ink, Finnish licorice and the scents of a brisk autumn walk. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of blackberries, ripe flowers, tomatoe paste, iron and bakelite. A very fine balance between the ripe fruit, the acidity and the tannins. Ends on a fine dry note. From a half bottle ("when a half bottle is enough"...or...when the previous (regular) bottle is empty and you just want some more but are still in the shape that you realize that a half bottle is enough...)
91p   (tasted 2019/03)

Sunday, 3 March 2019

One Merlot, One Syrah & One Cabernet Franc


2014 Merlot, Starmont
The Napa Merlot sports an open, spicy nose with notes of plums, ginger bread, smoke, roasted nuts and some diesel aromas. Very, very good.
The taste is open and yummy with notes of figs, fried herbs, plums, gravel and dry chocolate. Long, warm, vigorous and very, very good. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Originals Syrah, Stolpman Vineyards
A very fine, low keyed yet intense nose with notes of blueberries, violets, a petrol station in distance, iron and blood and the favourite plant of senior citizens, geranium! Opens up nicely in the glass and the fruit becomes sweeter. Very fine.
On the palate it shows of a fine texture with notes of damsons, blueberries, rubber, iron and a hint of band aid. Complex and fine, with finely polished tannins. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Cabernet Franc, Paracombe
The Aussie Cab Franc delivers a herbal, warm nose with notes of warm tiles, red and black currants, rhubarb and bakelite. Very good in a direct sort of way.
The taste is straight forward, herbal and nice with notes of rowan-berries, warm tiles, bakelite and gravel. A warm, medium long finish. Very good. 3+ years.
87p   (tasted 2019/02)

Friday, 1 March 2019

Long Overdue Notes - Two Visits To Aldo Conterno - April & November 2018



The highlight of any trip to Piedmont is a visit to Poderi Aldo Conterno and getting together with Giacomo. The Barolo Boys visited Giacomo twice last year (as in 2017!), in April and November. Here are some notes from those visits. Links to earlier visits are at the bottom of this post.

April
Last time we visited, in December of 2017, we tasted all the 2014 Baroli and the 2015 wasn´t ready for tasting, so Giacomo poured an interesting set of wines.

2005 Bussiador
A big, brawny nose with notes of toasted nuts, band aid, grilled lemons and hint of popcorn. Fully mature. Somewhat heavy-handed.
The taste is mature and round with notes of Brazil nuts, dried flowers, almond paste and dried flowers. Long and warm. The acidity is a tad low.
86p   (tasted 2018/04)




2008 Bussiador
The 08 is a beauty, with a cool, refines nose with notes of tangerines, lemon cream, vanilla fudge and some dried apricots. Very deep and fine.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of orange peel, butter cookies, minerals and summer flowers. A long finish with a fine acidity. Really fine. No hurry to drink.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)

2007 Bussiador
A restrained, somewtaht mature nose with notes of melon, yellow ski wax, grey pears and a hint of saffron. Delicate and fine.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of dry caramel, grilled lemons, minerals and earth. A medium long finish with a fine dry twist. Fully mature.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2007 Barbera d´Alba Conca Tre Pile
An absolutely gorgeous, multi layered nose with notes of corinthians, raspberry licorice, blood pudding, spices and hint of dark chocolate. Very deep and intriguing.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of scorched earth, raspberry licorice, sweet minerals and iron. Very long and juicy. A lovely wine now and surely for the coming 10 years.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)



1998 Barolo Riserva Granbussia
Granbussia always delivers the goods. This 20 year old bottle shows extremely well, with a fantastic deep, hauntingly beautiful nose, with notes of a perfect autumn walk in a forest, dried cherries, dry licorice, fine tobacco and dried ceps. Just entering maturity. Marvellous.
The taste is aristocratic and taut with notes of hard cherry candy, mushrooms, autumn leaves, tobacco leaves, rosehips and forest floor. The finish goes on for minutes. There is still some perky tannins at the end. 5+ years.
97p   (tasted 2018/04)

2005 Barolo Romirasco
05 isn´t the greatest year in the 00-serie, being eclipsed by 01, 04, 06 and 08, but you can bet that Giacomo has fashioned a stunning Romirasco. The nose is handsome and elegant with notes of ripe red cherries, iron, forest floor and rosemary. Very deep. A hint of maturity but this has places to go.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of sour/sweet cherries, dry licorice, fresh mushrooms, rosehips and forest floor. Pure and racy. Long, long, long. 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/04)




2012 Barolo Riserva Granbussia
A very deep, intense, tight nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, Finnish licorice, dark oranges, rosehips and minerals. Very floral after some time in the glass. Lovely.
The taste is young, seedy and focused with notes of cherry pips, warm sand, dried flowers, salt licorice and a touch of menthol. Very, very long. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/04)

After the tasting we drove with Giacomo up to Alta Langhe and a new restaurant for us - Trattoria del Bivio. We were treated to a fantastic dinner and on top of that got to see how the chef worked the kitchen!

Giaocomo has a penchant for Ruinart and I´m not complaining!







The 2007 Lynch Bages was yummy!

Intestines! I love it!

November
Back in Piedmont again! And we were really looking forward to meet up with Giacomo. And tasting the 2015 Baroli! :-)

2016 Bussiador
But first the new vintage of Bussiador. The 16 seems like a blend of the outgoing 15 and the more restrained 14, with a deep, buttery nose with notes of spices, dry caramel, white summer flowers, hand cream and minerals. Very fine.
The taste is open and generous with a very cleansing acidity and notes of allspice, lemon cream, yellow apples and salted lemons. Creamy and lovely.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)


2016 Barbera d´Alba Conca Tre Pile
This is just a stunning Barbera, probably the best I have ever had (the 16 Ciaböt del Fi from Brovia is a contender). The nose is deep and spicy with notes of bay leaves, raspberry licorice, rain wet earth, a hint of the finest vanilla and a dark perfumed aroma. Beautiful.
The taste is juicy, fresh and focused with notes of ripe forest raspberries, licorice, Christmas spices and warm rocks. The finish is long and detailed with a lovely acidity. Great now and the coming 10 years.
95p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Bussia
The straight Bussia, 15.000 bottles, displays a high, cool nose with notes of fir wood, spicy cherries, Finnish licorice and after some time in the glass, a yummy scent of dried up strawberry lemonade.
The taste is young and tight with notes of dry licorice, ripe red cherries, iron, earth and some toasted bread. Very long. Very, very good. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)



2015 Barolo Colonello
The nose of the 15 Colonello is that of a lightness of being, with captivating aromas of hard cherry candy, mushrooms, pomegranate and floral scents. Very complex. Old school style.
The taste is taut and steady with notes of ripe lingonberries, sand, dried strawberries and furniture polish. Very long with frisky tannins. Needs 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Cicala
The Cicala is a beauty. The nose is very deep and multi layered with notes of ripe cherries, clay, expensive soap, hard cherry candy and the imaginary scent of a Tarte Tatin made out of tomatoes. There is plenty to love here.
The taste is vigorous and concentrated with notes of ripe red cherries, rosehips, dried rose petals, tar and leather. Everything in place. Just needs 8+ years in the cellar. Great wine.
98p   (tasted 2018/04)




2015 Barolo Romirasco
The Romirasco takes the backseat to the Cicala? Well, there is a first for everything. A stunning depth, and ethereal quality, masses of ripe red fruits and gorgeous notes of herbs, ceps, earth and strawberry icecream melting in the sun. Just lovely.
The taste is very tight, structured and backwards with notes of ripe lingonberries and cherries, dry licorice, lots of chrushed rocks, violets, rosehips and some tobacco notes. The finish lingers of for minutes. 10+ years.
97p   (tasted 2018/04)

Hard at work...



2010 Barolo Riserva Granbussia
Perfection is hard to describe. Why is this two or three points better then the Cicala or Romirasco? It just is. Believe me, wine doesn´t become better than this. I have written down a lot of adjectives (paired with profanity) but in this case, the sheer perfection of this wine is impossible to put into words. This comes at a high prize, I know, but given the joy it gives, it is a bargain.
100p   (tasted 2018/04)

Could this day get any better? Well, how about a restaurant visit with Giacomo and Elisa Scavino?
Ok then...
We went up in the L´Alta Langa to Filippo, a very intimate restaurant with a very hands on, intense and passionate chef.


Filippo, Elisa & Giacomo
The best sallad I have ever had!
Coniglio soon to be eaten...
We ate these...
And drank this - very fine!




Visiting Giacomo in December of 2016

Visiting Giacomo in May of 2017

Visiting Giacomo in November of 2017