Finishing a (or in all fairness skiping a boring) confernce early today, and I head for Primewinebar for lunch. A crisp sallad with salmon calls for - its friday after all! - champagne.
I start with a glass of
NV Prestige Blanc de Blancs, Diebolt-Vallois
A young, fresh, chalky nose with notes of lemon peel, lemon candy, hay, gravel, cap gun smoke and with a bit of warmth, a fine buttery note. Crisp and fine.
A fine, persistent, elegant taste with notes of lemon cream, assorted nuts, gravel and ending dry with a very good acidity. Medium long. This is a fine Bland de Blancs for consumption now and the coming 8+ years.
90p (tasted 2014/03)
Well, one glass cannot be enough, right? Lets take it - hopefully - up a notch.
2006 Brut Millesime, Henriot
A deep, clean as a whistle and powerful nose with butter fried nuts, white flowers, dried apricots, lemon fudge, orange peel and lots of crushed rocks. Very intense. This is good.
The taste is focused, pure and lovely with notes of lemon crean, tangerines, slate, vanilla fudge and a touch of ginger. A high, fine acidity. Long and intense. Not as great as the 2002, but very fine indeed.
A young, primary, fresh nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosemary, violet scented soap, balsa wood and some veal stock aromas. Very good.
The taste is young and tight with notes of hard cherry candy, sloe berries, rosemary ham, road dust and lots of juicy tannins. A bit too young and rough around the edges but there is good things here to come in 3-5 years.
1978 Château Fonreaud
The nose is a bit shy but wonderful in its withdrawn beauty - lots of dried red and black currants, autumn leaves, pipe tobacco, rotten onions (great!), old chocolate and fresh stables. There is a lot going on here, albeit the volume is turned down. Very fine.
The taste on the other hand doesn´t live up to the fine nose, it is a bit dry and there is, here and there, a touch of greenness. But there is also some old root vegetables, red currants, pipe tobacco and autumn leaves. While preparing dinner I´m nibbling on some truffle salami and the dryness disappears, as always, with some food. Good. But I remember the 82 as sooo much better - will see if I can get hold of a bottle... 84p (tasted 2014/03)
I have a clear memory of it, not the time or place, but the taste. Aha, this is what a Bordeaux should taste like!
It must have been around 87 or 88, I had only previous tasted minor Bordeaux bottles that had been bottled by the State Monopoly (now, thankfully, a thing of the past), when a bottle of 1982 Chateau Fonreaud came my way.
So many, many wines have been tasted and drunk since then and I still remember many of them, but the 1982 Fonreaud have a special place in my heart.
This youngster has a fine, elegant nose with notes of ripe grapefruit, grilled lemons, lemon cream, some dried apricots and a touch of vanilla pods. This one has more oak on the nose compared to the Pouilly-Fuisse. A fine nerve. Still very young. Very good.
The taste is young, pure and fruity with notes of sweet/sour lemons, cold butter, grapefruit juice, white flowers and fudge. A fine acidity and a lovely warmth in the medium long finish. Very, very good. I would definitely would like to drink this again, some 3-5 years from now. This is a steal for 22 Euro.
I have been poured a couple of vintages of Cuvée Caroline blind in the past, and every time I have been certain that it have been a really great Burgundy. This time was no exception, even though I poured it myself. :-)
2006 Spätburgunder Cuvée Caroline, Schlossgut Diel
On the front label it says Pinot Noir and on the back label it says Blauer Spätburgunder - a beloved child has many names...
The nose is to die for with a hedonistic, deep, creamy character full of wild strawberries, raspberries, some blueberries tossed in and additional notes of veal stock, truffle juice, bay leaves and forest floor. Utterly gorgeous and breathtakingly beautiful. There is a hint of maturity that adds to the complexity.
The taste follows the nose perfectly with purity, intensity and concentration. Stunning notes of ripe strawberries, raspberry truffles, Asian spices, tobacco and moist undergrowth. The finish goes on for over a minute. Smooth tannins and a perky acidity. This is a dead ringer for a great Grand Cru Burgundy! 97p (tasted 2014/03)
P.S. On a sadder note - opened two other bottle of Spätburgunder, one from Künstler and one from Dr Heger - both corked beyond recognition "#%¤&%¤#"&%¤!, which cut this series short, before I restock. D.S.
I opened these two German Pinot´s to go with some fried chicken and a tomato sauce with lots of fresh herbs - they did! :-)
2007 Achkarrer Sclossberg Spätburgunder***, Weingut Michel
A light, mature, finely chiselled nose with notes of dried raspberries, lingonberries, herbs, eraser and sugar dusted rhubarbs. Very good. Fairly light but with an interesting character.
The taste is cool and a bit foursquare with notes of dried raspberries, liquorice, warm gravel and dried herbs. The finish is medium long and a bit dry. Nice enough, and fine with the food, but not great. The nose is the best part. 84p (tasted 2014/03)
2009 Pinot Noir***, Weingut Holger Koch
The second three star (!) wine is much better. A fine, elegant, cool Pinot nose with notes of just ripening strawberries, forest floor, rosehips, spices and a touch of tobacco. Medium deep. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. This is good.
The taste is medium bodied, sweet and tight with notes of crushed strawberries, liquorice, forest floor, rosemary and tobacco leaves. Very, very good. There is a fine acidity in the end of the finish. 89p (tasted 2014/03)
I have recently bought some bottles of German Spätburgunder, and I will taste them over the upcoming days. First one up is
2007 Hohen-Sülzen Kirchenstück Spätburgunder GG, Battenfeld-Spanier
Those long German titles... Ah well, on to the wine then - at first I thought it was a bit ungainly and uncongenial but it just needed time. Later, fine notes of cool red fruits, rowanberries, earth, dried herbs, dry chocolatebiscuits and beetroots emerges from the glass. A high, delicate nose. Very, very good. Some maturity but still youngish. On day two it hasn´t budged a bit. The taste is cool, a bit mature, round and fine with notes of dried raspberries, lingonberries, dried herbs, forest floor and beetroot juice. A fine acidity. A medium long, warm finish. Stays the same on day two. This is drinking fine and I don´t think it will get any better but it will surely stay on this level for 4-6 years. 90p (tasted 2014/03)
I am working my way through the 04´s from Fratelli Revello (see the others below).
For this Sunday lunch with the extended family, two bottles of the Vigna Conca was opened, and it was unanimous loved. And the cook, aka me, got a big glass of this hedonistic juicy while cooking lunch...:-)
2004 Barolo Vigna Conca, Fratelli Revello
After two hours in the decanter this is firing on all cylinders with stunning notes of sweet/sour cherries, hard cherry candy, violets, sweet tobacco, lots of freshly picked rosemary and a touch of mint. Very deep and focused. Expensive leather. A high, delectable nose. Beautiful.
The taste is young, pure and at first just gulpable but then the tannins kicks in and leaves a distinct mark. Gorgeous notes of black cherries, hard cherry candy, violets, rose petals, forest floor and some tobacco. A long, refined finish. This is still young and should hit its peak in 5-8 years. I will surely save some bottles until then. Great wine! 93p (tasted 2014/03)
It is friday evening after a hellish week at work - I even had to decline a tasting this week - not good! :-)
What to console myself with when I get home?
I had just received a tasting sample from VinUnic in the shape of a 1997 Pommard and I thought it would be fun to open a 50 year older version from the same district for comparison.
With red meat, home made fries and home made bearnaise sauce - magic happened!
1947 Pommard, ?lavien Jeunet Henry (the first letter is not readable)
It opens, as old wine usually does, a bit funky, but with just 30 minutes in a decanter there are beautifully notes of (over)ripe crushed strawberries, moist pipe tobacco, dry leather, stale Coca-Cola, asphalt and lots of undergrowth. Very good. A bit barnyardy at times, but in a good way. A wonderful sweetness to the fruit. This has matured in a excellent way.
A mature, ripe and round taste with notes of dried raspberries and lingonberries with additional notes of liquorice, asphalt, rosehips, autumn leaves and pipe tobacco. A very fine, high acidity. Drinking great, and it doesn´t die before the bottle is finished. A great mature Burgundy! 92p (tasted 2014/02)
1997 Pommard Premier Cru, Louis Jadot
The 50 year younger Pommard displays a ripe, warm, tight nose with notes of dark raspberries, cherries, forest floor, fried herbs and a fine dark floral note. A fine Pommard feeling about this one. Very, very good.
The taste is big, bold and ripe with notes of black cherries, raspberries, liquorice, tobacco and forest floor. A touch of balsa wood. This has started to mature ever so slightly. A very warm, fine fruit. This could definitely be drunk now but will surely keep for another 10+ years. 90p (tasted 2014/02)
A short but sturdy cork, just look at the level of the 1947!
J hosted our last monthly tasting and poured the six wines below double blind. I managed to identify that it was Pinot, I was also sure that the first glass originated from Burgundy but that the rest of the wines were from New Zeeland, I didn´t guess.
2004 Corton Les Maréchaudes, Albert Bichot
A mature, seedy, warm nose with notes of lingonberry bushes, balsa wood, dried herbs, dried raspberries and hot gravel. Some grassy notes after a while, in line with the vintage I would say. But it still got some charm.
The taste is mature, tight and a bit foursquare with notes of red cherries, dried raspberries, violets and lots of gravel. A medium long, cool finish. This should have been drunk sooner but still manage to be of some interest. A fine food wine. 84p (tasted 2014/02)
2010 Calvert Pinot Noir, Felton Road
The first Felton Road wine has a more open. fruity nose with notes of warm red cherries, liquorice, leather, rosehips and dark fudge. A lot more fruit in this one, but still in a laid back character, and a bit anonymous also.
The taste is cooler with ripe red fruit and notes of dried raspberries, raspberry liquorice, leather and warm spices. A good mouth feel. A medium long, fine finish. Very good. I wouldn´t keep this for long though. 87p (tasted 2014/02)
2010 Cornish Point Pinot Noir, Felton Road
The Cornish Point has a similar character to the Calvert, with notes of hard cherry candy, liquorice, rosehips and a touch of chocolate. With air a touch of dog fur is noticeable. Very good.
The taste is young, cool and medium bodied with notes of dried raspberries, lingonberries, warm spices and a hint of coffee powder. A good acidity in the medium long finish. Very, very good. 88p (tasted 2014/02)
2010 Block 3 Pinot Noir, Felton Road A younger nose than the previous two glasses with fine notes of blueberries, raspberries, balsawood, bonfire and forest floor. Very fine. Evolves in the glass and become broader with air. This needs time but will become very fine in 4-6 years.
The taste is young, tight and elegant with notes of red cherries, raspberries, forest floor, fresh herbs and a touch of chocolate. Refined. Very, very good. Long and fine.
90p (tasted 2014/02)
2010 Block 5 Pinot Noir, Felton Road A young, deep, intense nose with notes of cool raspberries, freshly washed clothes, iron, mushrooms, cinnamon and herbs. Deep and fine. A touch of bonfire. This is really good.
The taste is a cool, focused and refined with ripe red fruit in the shape of lingonberries, raspberries and wild strawberries. Very long and a bit seedy. Moist forest floor. A very fine acidity. Keep this for 3-5 years and it will turn out even greater.
92p (tasted 2014/02)
2008 Block B Pinot Noir, Schubert This beauty has an adorable sweet Pinot nose with notes of spicy raspberries, bonfire, asian spices, wild strawberries and a hint of chocolate truffles. Weightless as a graceful ballerina. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. Great stuff!
The taste is open for business with gorgeous raspberry fruit and notes of rhubarb licorice, bonfire, dried mushrooms, herbs and some worn leather. A long, balanced finish with a spicy touch. This has started to mature but there is no rush to finish any remaining bottles. Has a lovely mouthfeel.
I bought this bottle on a whim, having read something somewhere about these brothers but didn´t remembering anything of what I read, more than there wines have gotten some good reviews.
I will be buying more, much more!
2010 Pouilly-Fuissé La Roche, Bret Brothers
Jean-Guillaume and Jean-Philippe have in this Pouilly-Fuissé created a small masterpiece. The nose is at first a bit shy and withdrawn but wit air it opens up beautifully with notes of lemon peel, white flowers, slate, matchbox and a whiff of Coleman mustard seeds. Very deep and refined. Polished. This is flat out gorgeous, albeit very young. Stunning!
The taste is pure, fresh and complex with notes of sweet/sour lemons, candle-grease, slate and butter cup flowers. A long, elegant finish with a cleansing acidity. Very, very balanced. A touch of white raisins in the finish, that matched our food perfectly - salmon with a chive sauce and sultan raisins that have been sautéed with white wine and fish sauce.
A very promising wine that delivers a few hours of true enjoyment before the bottle is finished. Would love to drink this again in a few years time, or just about any time! 94p (tasted 2014/02)