Vacation Wines - 1998 Barolo, Schiavenza

1998 Barolo, Schiavenza
This 21 year old Barolo offers up - after one hour in the decanter - fine notes of scorched earth, red beets, sun warm asphalt, dried cherries and old paint. Mature and fine.
The taste is warm, steady and rich with notes of cooked cherries, tobacco, root vegetables and cold sugared coffee. There are still some tannins in the long finish. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2013 Pinot Noir Tout Prés, By Farr

2013 Pinot Noir Tout Prés, Farr
Nowadays, when a Bourgogne Rouge from a decent producer costs 50+ Euro..., it is nice to be able to buy Grand Cru Pinot from New Zeeland for the same price. In this case, the Tout Prés from By Farr.
The nose is deep, perfumed, earthy and rich with notes of cooked root vegetables, rhubarb licorice, sun warm rocks and a hint of cool tobacco leaves. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Lovely.
The taste is tight and concentrated with lift, energy and focus, alongside notes of moist earth, ripe wild strawberries, dried flowers and parsnips. A long, distinct finish with a fine acidity. Great wine, now and the coming 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 1993 Barbaresco, Produttori Del Barbaresco

1993 Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco
A cool, earthy, mature nose with notes of rowanberries, dried cherries, dry asphalt and a hint of smoke. Low keyed yet with character and with a mature intensity. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and expressive with notes of bakelite, lingonberries, dry violets and dried flowers - a lot of dry notes but not in the least "dry". A long, dry, fine finish. Perfect now.
89p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2012 Barolo Acclivi, Burlotto

2012 Barolo Acclivi, Burlotto
From the master himself, Fabio, comes this 2012. From the get go, the nose show some warmth, but with air it becomes more cool and structured with notes of cranberries, earth, toasted almonds and iodine. Very deep and fine.
The taste is handsome and crisp with notes of red currants, dried strawberries, dry licorice, bakelite and paint. Very long with a fine dryness and a light intensity. A lovely wine for drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo, Luigi Pira & 2004 Barolo Vecchia Vigna Delle Brunate, M. Marengo

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo, Luigi Pira
Tasted twice before with Gianpaolo - in December of 2017 & April of 2018 - this Langhe Nebbiolo gives us some hints of what 2016 will bring when the Baroli will be relased in 2020 - this will be an expensive year...
92p   (tasted 2019/07)

2004 Barolo Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate, M. Marengo
The first vintage of the Brunate Riserva (as it is named now), this beauty displays a deep, round, forest filled nose with notes of dy violets, a hint of bonfire smoke, old chocolate biscuits, rowanberries and some rubbery scents. Very complex and fine.
The taste is dry, multi layered and complex with notes of raspberry licorice, mushrooms, forest floor and violets. A very long, fine finish with silky tannins and a dry ending. Very, very fine. Drinking perfectly now but will keep for another 10+ years.
95p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2015 Barolo Brunate, Flavio Saglietti

2015 Barolo Brunate, Flavio Saglietti
A new producer for me, this young Brunate is very promising. The nose is cool and seedy with notes of red currants, dried cherries, violets, iron and a hint of tobacco, very much in the Brunate character. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, wit a fine backbone and notes of rowan berries, dry licorice, iron and nutmeg. Long, dry and fine. Silky tannins. Needs 6+ years in the cellar. (The bottle got tossed out before a pic was taken...).
91p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2016 Petruccino, Podere Forte

2016 Petruccino, Podere Forte
I tasted the 2015 eight months ago and was eager to pull the cork of the 16. The first vintage of Petruccino with 100% Sangiovese. The nose is rich and bold with gogeous notes of spicy licorice, ripe black cherries, violets, saw dust and the intriguing scent of a fresh hockey puck.
The taste is concentrated, energetic and pure with notes of ripe cherries, chrushed tiles, sweet violets pastilles and rosemary. Very, very long. Impressive now but will become even better with 5+ years in the cellar.
94p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giuseppe Rinaldi

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giuseppe Rinaldi
Deceptively light, both in colour and texture, but there is a low keyed intensity here, with notes of wild strawberries, forest floor, cool licorice and a hint of diesel oil. Very fine.
The taste is high, pure and gulpable with notes of red currants, rhubarb, dry licorice and wet asphalt. Distinct and very fine. A joy to drink, now and the coming 10 years.
93p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Jean-Claude Ramonet

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Jean-Claude Ramonet
It is always a treat to drink a great bottle from Ramonet. There has been some ups and downs over the years, but when a bottle is up, it is a real treat.
The nose is a dream with purity and complexity in spades. There are stunning notes of candied lemons, butter biscuits, cap gun smoke, spices and cream. Very saline. Precise. Gorgeous.
The taste is creamy, finely tuned and long lasting with notes of matchbox, ripe lemons, sweet minerals and a touch of banana peel. Very, very fine. The finish goes on and on and on. I will wait 5+ years with my remaining bottles. A class act.
97 p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2005 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

2005 Volnay 1 er Cru Les Brouillardes, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

A deep, light meaty nose with notes of root vegetables, forest floor, fir wood, ripe flowers and hints of iodine. Very, very good. After some time in the glass there aere fine barnyardy aromas that arises.

The taste is finely mature with notes of parsnips, forest floor, warm tiles and herbs. Long and fine. A very silky structure. Great now and the coming 6+ years.

91p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2010 Barolo Coste & Bricco, Ascheri

2010 Barolo Coste & Bricco, Ascheri
I had this wine two years ago, and it still needs a couple of more years in the cellar. The nose is vigorous and intense with notes of sweet/sour cherries, red currants, bakelite, violets and roses. Very deep, multi layered and fine.
The taste is young and forceful with notes of hard cherry candy, sandelwood, violets and chrushed rocks. Very fine polished tannins that leaves a mark in the finish. Long and fine. 4+ years.
Here are notes from a visit to Ascheri in November of 2018.
93p   (tasted 2019/07)

Vacation Wines - 2006 Gentilhomme, AR Lenoble & 2008 Barbaresco Montersino, Orlando Abrigo

Today start our vacation - four weeks of sun (hopefully...), fun and wine (that is a certain!). Lets commence with a bubbly and a Nebbiolo.

2006 Gentilhomme, AR Lenoble
Last time tasted three years ago, and this bottle has matured some. The nose is salty and refined with notes of fennel, cap gun smoke. wet asphalt and grass. Very deep and fine.
The taste is fresh and racy with notes of chalk, cold butter, biscuits and a hint of ginger. Long, cool and elegant. A very good acidity. Some mature notes but this could be cellared for 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/07)

2008 Barbaresco Montersino, Orlando Abrigo
This fine Barbaresco displays a round, somewhat mature nose with notes of dried rasoberries, forest floor, violets, mushrooms and sand. A very fine laid back warmth. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and sandy with notes of dried raspberries, violets, cranberries and sandel wood. Lots of minerals in the finish. Dry and fine. Perfect for drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/07)

2017 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa

2017 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
An upfront, spicy nose with notes of ligthly peppered blueberries, chrushed tiles, herbs and a hint of an really old balsamic vinegar. Very, very good.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of ripe black currants, blueberries, gravel and rosemary. Fine, sandy tannins. Long and juicy. Drinking great now but could be cellared for many years. The 2015 was tasted a year ago.
90p   (tasted 2019/07)

1971 Château Filhot

1971 Château Filhot
A lovely, mature, open and inviting nose with notes of saffron, nail polish, dried tangerines, autumn leaves, sealing wax and old wrinkled red apples. Deep and lovely.
The taste is elegant and fine with notes of dried peach, linoleum, iodine and wet stones. A long finish with a fine acidity, and it ends semi dry. Drinking great today.
92p   (tasted 2019/06)

Not So Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys Visits Tenuta Cucco & Vietti

The Barolo Boys had a couple of great day in Langhe (as always) in November of 2018. Here are notes from two more visits.

Tenuta Cucco
2017 Langhe Chardonnay
This is a spicy, upfront Chard with fine notes of yellow apples, smoke and melon. Cool and fine.
The taste is tight with a fine acidity and notes of lemon cream, melon and smoke. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2018/11)

2017 Dolcetto d´Alba
A earthy, spicy nose with notes of bay leaves, blueberries and some tobacco aromas. Very good.
The taste is light and fresh with notes of earth, bakelite and ripening blueberries. Sandy tannins.
87p   (tasted 2018/11)

2017 Langhe Nebbiolo
The smell is that of a forest from my childhood when picking berries in the autumn. Next is scents of licorice, cherries and some smoke. Ver, very good.
The taste is pure and fresh with notes of red cherries, licorice and moist undergrowth. Fresh tannins. An uplifting character. Very nice indeed.
89p   (tasted 2018/11)

2016 Langhe Rosso
A big nose with a fine mix of raspberries and blueberries alongside scents of plums and salted licorice. A blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. These blends gives a little of everything, but in my view it seldom become one+one=three.
The taste is very good with nice fruit and fine acidity and tannins but yet again, a bit all over the place.
87p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo del Commune di Serralunga
The 14 Normale displays a young, seedy nose with notes of asphalt, undergrowth, paint and rowan berries. Very fine.
The taste is fine and elegant with notes of dried up raspberry jam, asphalt and dried herbs. A very good balance. Long. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2018/11)

Giovanni took care of us, showed us the cellars and poured these fine wines

2013 Barolo del Commune di Serralunga
Interesting enough, the 13 Normale isn´t as good as the 14. At least today. The nose is restrained with a fine depth and notes of gravel, dry raspberries and asphalt. Needs air.
The taste shows a fine structure and Serralunga power but is a bit locked in for now. Fine notes of cranberries, dry raspberries, tobacco and rosehips. Needs time.
89p   (2018/11)

2014 Barolo Cerrati
A very refined, handsome nose with notes of perfectly ripe cherries and notes of forest floor, tobacco and root vegetables. Very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of black cherries, bay leaves, rose petals and earth. A very fine structure. 6+ years.
93p   (2018/11)

2013 Barolo Cerrati
Again, the 14 Cerrati is better than the 13 version, although this is no slouch. The nose is deep and rustic with notes of dried cherries, asphalt, dried herbs and a hint of tobacco.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of sweet/sour cherries, asphalt, dried flowers and some leathery notes. Long and fine. 5+ years.
91p   (2018/11)

2012 Barolo Riserva Ceratti Vigna Cucco
The two Riserva´s from Ceratti are world class wines. The 12 has spend 36 months in new oak and it doesn´t show! Instead, there are stunning notes of sweet/sour cherries, licorice, rosehips, moist forest floor, dried flowers and incense. Wonderful.
The taste is balanced and energetic with notes of ripe cherries, forest floor, herbs, dried roses and old leather. The finish goes on and on. Very, very fine.
94p   (2018/11)

2011 Barolo Riserva Ceratti Vigna Cucco
The 11 Riserva is almost as great as the 12, with its deep, perfumed nose with notes of paint, asphalt, herbs and licorice. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dried cherries, tobacco, rosehips and asphalt. A very long finish with structured tannins. Needs more time in the bottle, say 8+ years.
93p   (2018/11)

Vietti
2017 Arneis
Always one of my favourite Arneis, and the 2017 is no exception. It has a pure, fresh nose with notes of spices, white pepper, lemon and a fine oily note. Very, very good.
The taste is crisp and fine with notes of lemon, spices and grass. A very fine acidity.
88p   (2018/11)

2016 Barbera d´Asti La Crena
A very deep, spicy nose with a fantastic raspberry filled nose with additional scents of Finnish licorice, forest floor and ripe flowers. Very fine.
The taste is concentrated and fine with a high acidity and sweet fruit in a fine package. Again, stunning raspberry flavours. Long.
92p   (2018/11)

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo
Another 16 Nebbiolo that shows what joys we can except when the 16 Baroli will be released next year. A refined, cherry layered nose with rosehips, mushrooms and undergrowth. Very fine.
The taste is tight and fine-limbed with silky tannins, a fine structure and fruit for the coming 10+ years.
92p   (2018/11)

2014 Barolo Castiglione
No Brunate was made in 2014 so that fruit has gone in the Castiglione. The nose is laid back and elegant with notes of ripe lingonberries, earth and dried flowers. Lean and fine.
The taste is seedy and tight with notes of sand, lingonberries, dried flowers and a hint of tobacco. For drinking while waiting for 13´s.
89p   (2018/11)

2015 Barolo Castiglione
The 15 Castiglione has more body and structure than the 14, with a sandy, fine nose with notes of ripening raspberries, rosehips, warm tiles and tar. Very, very good.
The taste is concentrated and built for aging, with notes of raspberry licorice, chrushed rocks, rosehips and, as in the 14, a hint of tobacco. 8+ years.
92p   (2018/11)

2015 Barolo Lazzarito
The 15 Lazzarito sports a deep, dark nose with notes of ripe raspberries, forest floor, rose petals and a delicate tobacco aroma. Very fine.
The taste is concentrated and ripe with notes of dark bread, warm rocks, earth and a fantastic raspberry fruit. Very long and distinct. 6+ years.
93p   (2018/11)

2015 Barolo Rocche
Always my favourite, the Rocche delivers the goods. The nose is deep and complex with notes of ripe red cherries, some sweet/sour scents, chrushed rocks, rosehips and gravel. Very, very fine.
The taste is just brilliant with fruit, acidity and tannins in perfect harmony, with a ripe cherry fruit and fine notes of hard cherry candy, roses and asphalt. A low keyed intensity. Needs 10 years and then it will flirt with perfection.
96p   (2018/11)

The charming Emanuela! Will be missed when visiting Vietti

2015 Barolo Ravera
The Ravera is the most restrained of the Cru´s, with a tight, rather closed nose with notes of assorted red fruits, chrushed rocks, rose petals and a hint of leather. Needs lots of time.
The taste is seedy and firm with notes of ripe lingonberries, sun warm rocks, herbs and forest floor. Needs a lot of time, but there is things going on underneath.
92p   (2018/11)

2015 Barolo Brunate
The Brunate is refined, even sensual, with lovely notes of Christmas spices, lingonberries, mushrooms and fir wood. Very fine.
The taste is tight and elegant with notes of undegrowth, rosehips, spices, dry chocolate and fir wood. Very, very long. A lovely texture. 7+ years.
95p   (2018/11)

1998 Syrah/Shiraz - Eleven Bottles Tasted

Six of us tasted these wines on a picture perfect Sunday lunch, sitting outside in glorious weather and with some great food.

My friends tasted double blind and was forced to name their favourite in each flight before the bottles were revealed. They only knew that were 7 Aussie wines and 5 ringers, all Syrah/Shiraz.

I won´t take up time and place with the old and tired debate about Parker fruit bombs from Australia that supposedly wouldn´t last. I will just say that when cellared for 21 years - at least these bottles - no one was overripe or had gone to meet its maker, instead they delivered pleasure around the table.

Flight I
1998 Estate Shiraz, Warrenmang
A large scaled, warm, mature nose with notes of asphalt, fried rosemary, dried beef and undergrowth. Keeps it all together nicely.
The taste is big, steady and compact with notes of bonfire smoke, grilled beef and violets. There is a some fiery notes at the end, but again, keeps it together.
88p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Syrah, Stellenzicht
The winner of the flight with the majority of votes. Most guessed leaned towards Rhone. And it displayed the usual characteristics - violets, pepper, smoke and some ripe blueberries, in a laid back, elegant style. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of pepper, cool blackberries, bakelite and a hint of bacon fat. Finely textured tannins. Long. Really fine.
92p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Seven Acre Shiraz, Greenock Creek
Yet again, I have problems with a wine from Greenock Creek. In the past I have noted "soya sauce" and "burnt rubber" as some of the not so good attributes. This 98 shows a clumpsy, dried up nose with notes of scorched earth, rubber (not burnt this time), iodine and ink. Where is the fruit?
The taste is dry and hot with notes of diesel oil, ink, rubber and some old, wrinkled, dried up blackberries.
70p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Shiraz, Elderton
This is a restrained Shiraz from Elderton, with a fine maturity and notes of cranberries, pepper, dried flowers and violets. Very, very good.
The taste is peppery and tight with notes of dried black fruit, bakelite, iron and chrushed rocks. The finish is a bit dry. The Command is usually much more rich and outspoken, but I must say I prefer this style.
88p   (tasted 2019/06)

Flight II
1998 Hickinbotham Vineyard Shiraz, Clarendon Hills
A big and beautiful nose with notes of ripe blueberries, violets, meat and a hint of toothpaste. Deep and fine.
The taste is concentrated and tight with a fine intensity and a long finish, with notes of asphalt, violets, meat and scorched earth. Very, very good. Shared winner with the Dead Arm in this flight.
92p   (tasted 2019/06)

2000 Harys, Gillardi
From a magnum. This was a misdelivery. I ordered a magnum - presented as a 1998 - rather recently but when it arrived it turned out to be a 2000. Restitution was made but I thought I would put in the tasting all the same. But...corked ¤&%¤#"/&%!!
50p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Raymond Roure, Jaboulet
A cool, earthy nose with notes of red currants, dried herbs, a touch of band aid and overall a very fine, low keyed maturity. I like this a lot.
The taste is dry and fine-limbed with seedy notes of red currants, ripening blueberries, spices and forest floor. Medium long and elegant.
90p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Dead Arm Shiraz, d´Arenberg
Everything a Aussie Shiraz was known to be - big, bombastic, rich and sweet, with a deep nose with notes of asphalt, overripe strawberries, mint and rotting flowers. Nearly over the top but interesting enough, in this case, it works.
The taste follows the nose with broadshouldered, sweet fruit and a one minute long finish. Notes of iron, asphalt, overripe red and black cherries and lots of alcohol, but again, it works. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2019/06)

Flight III
1998 Syrah Les Coteaux, Andrew Murray
A fine, concentrated, meaty nose with notes of warm tiles, ripe blueberries, dusty earth and some barnyardy aromas, in a complex way. Very fine.
The taste is smoky and peppery with notes of a blueberry pie, iron and violets. Salivating tannins. Very long and fine. Perfectly mature.
93p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Mount Edelstone Old Vines Shiraz, Henschke
A deep, round, mature nose with notes of mulberries, sweet violets, moist earth and a touch of mint. A very fine maturity.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of iron, blood, ripe blackberries, thyme and chrushed rocks. A fine intensity. Very long. Really fine.
94p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Reserve Shiraz, Fox Creek
A very deep, spicy and warm nose with notes of smoke, ink, ripe blackberries, leather and gingerbread. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of iodine, asphalt, blackberries, violet pastilles and toothpaste. A very fine structure. Could still be kept for many years.
94p   (tasted 2019/06)

1998 Reva Syrah, Alban
The hands down winner of the flight. I have been fortunate to have tasted this wine 6+ times and it has performed brilliantly every time. The nose is pure, tight and rich with notes of Asian spices, black pepper, meat, violets and sage. Very, very deep. Still youngish. Just lovely.
The taste is racy, tight and impressive with layers upon layers of perfectly ripe fruit, sweet violets, fresh herbs, a hint of bacon and veal stock. A long, long, long finish. Great wine.
97p   (tasted 2019/06)

Three German Rieslings From 1997

These three bottles were opened as starters for a 1998 Syrah/Shiraz dinner the other day.

1997 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Reichrat von Bühl
Dried apricots, hay and dry honey melon makes up the nose of this mature Pfalz wine. I remember it as more spirited a couple of years ago.
The taste is dry with a hig acidity and notes of dried up orange ice cream, dried apricots and chrushed rocks. Good.
85p   (tasted 2019/06)

1997 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg, Georg Breuer
A fine, delicate nose with notes of rain wet asphalt, dried herbs, candied lemon peel and a salty aroma. Very fine.
The taste is cool and dry with notes of dried sage, lemon peel, wet rocks and a hint of petrol. A long, fine finish. Fully mature and drinking perfectly now.
90p   (tasted 2019/06)

1997 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Dr. Loosen
This has a more marked sweetness on the nose, even though the maturity has made the sweetness more "dry". Fine notes of dried up lavender honey, apricots, Lambic ale and a hint of a rubber carpet. A fine complexity.
The taste is dry with a hit of sweetness in the niddle taste, with notes of lemon cream, dried pine apple, hay and slate. A medium long, fine finish.
88p   (tasted 2019/06)