Thursday, 19 July 2018

Vacation Wines - No 8 - 2013 Sangreal By Farr Pinot Noir, Wine By Farr

My first Pinot bottle from Farr and you can call me impressed!

2013 Sangreal By Farr Pinot Noir, Wine By Farr
The nose soars up from the glass with stunning aromas of wild raspberries, dark licorice, most earth, french nougat, smoke, dark spices and a light meat stock. High spirited and interesting. Very deep, complex and yummy.
It flows over the palate with a silky feeling at first and then the sweet raspberries comes foward alongside licorice, dark fudge, warm gravel and smoke. A long, lingering finish with a very fine warmth. Great juice. Glad I have more.
93p   (tasted 2018/07)

Tuesday, 17 July 2018

Vacation Wines - No 7 - 1967 Barolo, Vietti

I was saving this bottle for a different occasion, when it was supposed to be joined by the 67 Rocche from Vietti which I also have, but......visiting the cellar a couple of days ago and trying to find something to open (I never have anything to open! Every bottle is planned for something or way to young. Am I lonely with this problem...?!) I saw that this bottle had started to leak.


Nothing to do but to stand it up and wait two days for the sediment to sink.

1967 Barolo, Vietti
I hadn´t a change pulling the cork, it went down into the bottle. Ah, well, slowly pouring the wine I notice that it has the same colour as the 1964 tasted four years ago. Looks light and fragile but the 64 had power and refinement to spare. How about the 67 then...

Thanks for asking, very nice indeed. The nose is deep, fragrant, light and refined with notes of dried strawberries, paint, stale hazelnuts, autumn leaves and lots and lots of rosehips. Lovely. The scent of a autumn walk in the Langhe vineyards when the day has been warm. A very fine maturity with a gorgeous dried up sweetness.
The taste is dry, finely tuned and elegant with notes of dried strawberries, cold sugared coffee, earth and dry licorice. A medium long, fine finish. But - there is a void in the midpalate, making in feel a bit fragile. Very, very good though. I bet a perfect bottle would have have scored in the high 90´s, but this being no slouch gets
92p   (tasted 2018/07)

Sunday, 15 July 2018

Vacation Wines - No 6 - 2016 Château Haut-Landon

2016 Château Haut-Landon
Last year I drank a couple of bottles of the 2015 vintage and really liked them. Now it is time for the 2016. 2016 as a vintage has a lot to offer, as I found out at a tasting a year ago.
But on this occasion the 15 is the better deal. The 16 opens with a high spirited, herbal nose with notes of red currants, unripe raspberries, bakelite and a hint of band aid. Good and solid made but in a superficial way.
The taste is light, cool and fresh with notes of red currants, green bell peppers, earth and bakelite. Good with a nice acidity. Rather light. Drinkable now but I don´t think it will improve much.
85p   (tasted 2018/07)

Saturday, 14 July 2018

Vacation Wines - No 5 - 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, Marc Colin

Dinner this night - cod, vegetables, bacon and a herb sauce. Why not open a Burgundy?

2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, Marc Colin
A young, steely, cool nose with notes of star fruit, lemon cream, red basil, oranges and summer flowers. Laid back, finely tuned but a tad uncharming.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of hard lemon candy, white currants, smoke and chrushed rocks. Unrelieved. A good structure, a fine acidity but a bit "stiff" in character. Give this - and I will with my remaining bottles - 6 years in the cellar and see if it puts on a more attractive personality. Maybe the Saint-Aubin´s from Marc Colin needs some age?
89p   (tasted 2018/07)

Friday, 13 July 2018

Vacation Wines - No 3 & 4 - 50´s Perelada Especial, Castillo de Perelada & 1994 Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Tondonia, Lopez de Heredia

With some grilled sausages, fried mushrooms, sallad and a tarragon sauce I opted for a mature Spaniard. The first one was a tad too mature, even for me...

50´s Perelada Especial, Castillo de Perelada
According to the seller, from the 50´s. The colour is very dark for that age but the nose leads to you believe that it is 60 years old - old stables, dried black fruit, dark muscovado sugar, earth and autumn leaves. Old yes, but still hanging in there.
The taste is dry and mature with a rather hollow middle, but with some nice notes of dried fruits, undergrowth and old leather. There is still a nice warmth in the finish. Should have been drunk decades ago but still delivers a slice of enjoyment.
76p   (tasted 2018/07)

1994 Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Tondonia, Lopez de Heredia
But I wanted something better to drink. And boy, this bottle delievered. The nose is a dream with a hauntingly fine, low keyed yet intense personality with notes of ripe root vegetables, paint, matchbox, sweet red currants and rhubarb. Very deep, very idiosyncratic and just lovely.
The taste is high spirited with a fine acidity, dry, finely tuned tannins and a dried up red fruit sweetness that is to die for. Long, lingering and multi layered. You just want to take sip after sip after sip... Great wine! For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/07)

Thursday, 12 July 2018

Vacation Wines - No 1 & 2 - NV Hommage Francois Hemart, Henri Giraud & 2006 Barbaresco Martinenga, Marchesi Di Gresy

Time for vacation. Finally. It has been a loooong spring with too much work, hence the few posts here.
You could say that it has been "all work and no play"...

But now there is no work and all play for almost five weeks. And what better way to start than with a bottle of bubbly and and a Nebbiolo?

NV Hommage Francois Hemart, Henri Giraud
Tasted four years ago, I thought that it would need some age and I bought a couple of bottles. It still does. This is a classy Champagne with a deep, herbal nose with notes of dark bread, ripe red apples, minerals and wet asphalt on a autumn morning (exactly like that! :-)).
The taste is creamy and rich with notes of fried bread, candied lemons, minerals and a hint of raspberry licorice. Long and rewarding with a fine acidity. A tad more round and mature compared to four years ago but this still needs a couple of years in the cellar. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2018/07)

2006 Barbaresco Martinenga, Tenuta Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi Di Gresy
Which is the full name of the estate... Anyway - the nose when popped and poured is a joy, with notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosehips, fennel and a cool minty scent. Some maturity. When it settles in the glass aromas of  a autumn forest walk and some worn leather arises. Very, very good.
The taste is cool seedy and fine with notes of mushrooms, red cherries, gravel and paint. A long, graceful finish. A fine, light balance. A hint of dryness at the very end. Almost at its peak (according to this bottle) and should be drunk within 5-7 years. A very fine mouthful of Nebbiolo at this stage.
92p   (tasted 2018/07)s

Monday, 9 July 2018

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo Gavarini, Elio Grasso

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo Gavarini, Elio Grasso
If the Langhe Nebbiolo´s says something about the coming Barolo vintage, then 2016 is a complete washout! Don´t believe anything thas is written or that you hear stating otherwise, just forget about this vintage (so I can buy everything....!).

2016 is going to be a stellar Barolo vintage. By now I have tasted 30+ Langhe Nebbiolo´s and some Baroli from cask - at home and from the two latest trips to Piedmont - and virtually all have been great.
Here is another.

The nose is a bit shy at first and needs an hour or so in the decanter to open up, and then lovely aromas of rosehips, rose petals, dark cherries, chrushed rocks, paint and Christmas spices arises from the glass. A gorgeous perfumed scent from the empty glass.
The taste is structured and precise with notes of hard cherry candy, chrushed rocks, asphalt and some mushrooms. Firm, salivating tannins. Very, very good. Given this blind, I would have guessed a very fine 2013 Barolo. This will age beautifully for 10+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/07)

Friday, 6 July 2018

Eight Bottles Of Pierre Péters Champagne

I was invited by The Wineagency for a leisure tasting of Pierre Péters Champagne´s yesterday. I tasted through almost the same lineup two years ago at a great dinner, and had pretty much the same impressions. These are really fine wines.

NV Extra Brut
Better than last time, more crisp and racy.
89p   (tasted 2018/07)

NV Cuvée de Réserve
Also better than two years ago, a very fine - especially from magnum - a nose with grilled lemons, oyster shells and clay.
The taste is young, tight and finely tuned with a fine acidity and notes of freshly cut lemons, flint and grapefruit. The score reflects the magnum version, more complex than from the regular bottle.
91p   (tasted 2018/07

2012 Cuvée L´Esprit
The new great vintage, after the 2008. And the 12 doesn´t disappoint. The nose is steely and vibrant with notes of passionfruit, lime and cap gun smoke. Very fine.
The taste is racy and refined with a searing acidity and lovely ripe yellow fruit. Very, very promising.
93p   (tasted 2018/07)

2010 Cuvée L´Esprit
The 10 behaved more or less the same as two years ago, maybe with an added depth.
92p   (tasted 2018/07)

2009 Cuvée L´Esprit
I wasn´t impressed with the 09 two years ago. This is much better but the other way around, meaning that two years ago I thought that the nose was rather dull but the taste was better. This time the other way around. The nose is ripe and rich with notes of birch sap, white currants, lemon cream and a hint of seafood stock. Very, very fine.
The taste is more seedy and withdrawn with notes of almonds, dry lemon and chrushed rocks. The acidity is high and not perfectly integrated. Even a touch anemic at the end. The wine in the lineup that has changed the most.
90p   (tasted 2018/07)

2010 Les Chétillons
A deep, complex nose with notes of lemon cream, grilled lemons and dried up lemon curd - lots of lemons here! Chrushed rocks, smoke and white currants compliments the lemons. Really fine.
The taste is layered and refined with notes of passionfruit, lemon candy, salted almonds and minerals. Very long, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/07)

NV Réserve Oubliée
A cuvée made from Pierre Peters Perpetual Reserve with vintages down to 1988. I don´t know the base vintage for this one, the one tasted two years ago had 2008 as the base vintage. This one has a round, somewhat mature nose with notes of sun warm rocks, yellow apples and chalk. Deep and fine.
The taste is creamy and balanced with fruit, acidity and structure in a nice, maturing kind of way. A really nice Champagne for drinking now.
91p   (tasted 2018/07)

NV Rosé for Albane
This Rosé didn´t do it for me two years ago, and sorry to say, not yesterday either. My take is that the red fruit aromas are muted in favour of gravel, mineral and earthy notes. In the mouth, again, the earthy, dusty character lies in front of the red fruit. There is some lingonberries here and if I try hard, some dried raspberries. No joy and not a Rosé for me.
85p   (tasted 2018/07)

Wednesday, 4 July 2018

Two Bottles Of 2001 Saint Emilion

2001 Chàteau Fombrauge
Tasted two years ago, this behaved exactly the same on this evening - the plums were there, also the spices and the warm, sandy feeling. In the same state of maturity, this would surely go on for another 5+ years before starting to decline. Delicious to drink now.
90p   (tasted 2018/07)

2001 Château Fonroque
The Fonroque is a more serious wine, feels younger and needs more time in the glass to open up. The nose is sandy and cool with notes of red and black currants, pencil shavings, bakelite and sun warm rocks. A good balance.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of ripe red currants, dried plums, warm sand and some tobacco. Medium long and nicely structured. A more serious wine, but not as joyful as the Fombrauge, at this stage at least. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/07)

Tuesday, 3 July 2018

Three Bottles Of Barbaresco

2004 Barbaresco, Comm. Armando Piazzo
A warm, round, mature nose with notes of roasted beets, undergrowth, red apples and rosehips. Soft and fine. A fine dried up warmth.
The taste is tight and fine with dry tannins and nice red fruit in the shape of red currants, red cherries and some cranberries. A medium long, dry finish. Fully mature and drinking fine now.
87p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Borgese, Piero Busso
An open, inviting, complex nose with notes of dried raspberries, paint, red tea, sealing wax and .licorice. High, handsome and fine.
The taste is finely structured and refined with notes of rosehips, dried cherries, licorice and some tobacco notes. Silky tannins. Still young but very enjoyable. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/06)

1995 Barbaresco, Produttori dei Barbaresco
A mature, deep, rusty nose with notes of dried red currants, mushrooms, gravel and leather. A fine maturity in a taut kind of way.
The taste is dry and mature with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, gravel and dried flowers. Medium long with some drying out tannins at the end. To be drunk sooner than later. Went very well with a chicken pasta dish.
86p   (tasted 2018/06)

Friday, 29 June 2018

A Still Young Dolcetto - 2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Punset

Bought for the staggering price of 7 Euro, and mostly for getting the experience of an older Dolcetto, but low and behold, this bottle was fresh as a daisy.

2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Punset
The nose is deep and rather dark and has the energy of a 2-3 year old wine. Fine notes of licorice, dried cherries, earth and some dark perfume. Some rubbery notes after a while in the glass. Very good without being complex.
The taste is very good and direct with notes of dried black fruits, asphalt, earth and violets. A bit dense at the end. A fine warmth. And again, feels like a much younger wine. Really good.
86p   (tasted 2018/06)

Thursday, 28 June 2018

Just Bought

I have through the years tasted some impressive old bottles of Beaujolais. The combination of Leroy and The Best Vintage Ever could make for a special experience...

Tuesday, 26 June 2018

Bottles Of Midsummer Eve

Family, friends, a lot of good food and some really nice bottles made up our Midsummer Eve. I didn´t take any formal notes, it wasn´t that kind of evening, but this is my recollaction of the bottles drunk.

Almost fully mature, round and pleasing (~91p)

2010 P-M Les Folatiérs, Glantenay (~94p) & 2004 P-M Les Combettes, Louis Carillon (~95p) - two extraordordinary white Burgundies!

A big, hearthy Sicilian Chardonnay with lots of character (~90p)
A fully mature, sweet, beautiful Burgundy (~92p)

A great German Pinot Noir with a lovely balance (~92p)
The next Pinot was from Italy and impressed everyone - just stunning! (~94p)
A 2001 Chianti - a stunner, although still young! (~92p)
A 13 year old Cabernet got those taste buds going (~92p)
A night without a Barolo - I don´t think so! The first one was sadly enough oxidized, a window display casualty (~70p)
The second Baroli was a young, direct, fine example (~92p)
Dessert! 1973 Quarts de Chaume, Domaine des Baumard (~93p) & 1980 Château Raymond-Lafon (~91p)

Wednesday, 13 June 2018

Brunello Di Montalcino - Ten Bottles From The 2012 Vintage

David & Ulf arranged a great tasting dinner a couple of weeks ago. The theme was some fine producers of Brunello and the vintage 2012. We had a bottle of Champagne and some really nice bottles of Riesling to begin with, but those will come in a later post.
The Brunellos were tasted single blind.

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona
A very juicy, fresh nose with lovely ripe cherries and additional aromas of tobacco, Tuscan gravel and herbs. The cherries has gotten a sligth kiss of oak. Very fine.
The taste is stern and seedy with notes of ripe cherries, salmiak, herbs and warm tiles. Really juicy tannins. The finish is long and distinct. Great structure. This will surely make it to the high 90´s in 10+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Salvioni
I felt a slight disappointment when the bottle was revealed. Not at all a bad wine, but being from my favourite Brunello producer, it was a bit of a let down.
The nose is deep, earthy and herbal with notes of bonfire, ripe cherries, a touch of cherry liquor and some meaty scents. Big and warm. Very deep.
The taste is tight and concentrated with lots of ripe black cherries and notes of scorched earth, ink and sweet licorice. Very long. The tannins are a tad rugged. Will time make this more harmonious?
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Marroneto
The Normale from Il Marroneto is a beauty, with a deep, concentrated nose full of dark cherries, undergrowth, fir wood, rosemary and gravel. Very balanced and fine.
The taste is seedy and cool with notes of dried up cherry jam, licorice, herbs and gravel. Refined. Steady yet silky tannins. Very balanced. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Colombaio Montosoli, Baricci
A new acquaintance for me (and after tasting it, hopefully my first and last encounter), this Brunello shows an open, superficial nose with notes of dried strawberries, old leather, dog fur and a high, almost yesty note.
The taste is warm and a tad foursquare with notes of dry licorice, dried cherries, asphalt and old herbs. Somewhat empty in the middle and there is a heat in the finish. A bad bottle or is this what this producer puts out?
82p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova, Casanova di Neri
A stunner! The nose is deep, yet open and flirty with notes of ripe cherries, dark chocolate, fried rosemary, earth and a fine balsamic scent. Really fine.
The taste has got it all - structure, finesse, balance, fruit and tannins in harmony, it just needs 8+ years in the cellar. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso, Ciacci Piccolomino d´Arragona
The Pianrosso is a perennial favourite of mine and the 2012 doesn´t disappoint. The nose is deep and multi layered with notes of violets, Tuscan gravel, ripe red currants and cherries and a fine tobacco aroma. A cool refinement. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of ripe cherries, roses, earth, tobacco and a hint of asphalt. Very long and focused. Lovely. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli, Altesino
A big, warm nose with notes of cherry liqour, band aid, scorched earth and bonfire. Ripe and rich, maybe a tad too much. Lots of sweet cherry fruit.
The taste is concentrated and warm with notes of cooked cherries, bonfire, warm herbs and violet pastilles. Very long and warm. Too marked by the vintage.
87p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére, San Filippo
A deep, complex nose with notes of ripe red cherries with some blueberries tossed in, spices, violets and rosemary. Very refined. Lovely.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, tobacco, violets and risemary. Silky tannins. Lots of energy and balance. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Conti Costanti
A fine, warm, spicy nose with notes of dark cherries, bonfire, tobacco, herbs and a fine earthiness. Dense and fine. Deep. Very, very good.
The taste is finely tuned yet inviting and warm with notes of salmiak, ripe cherries, wort flavored bread, tobacco and red beets. Long, fine and interesting. Needs 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie, Il Marroneto
Aaaaah! What a bottle of wine. This has an extra layer compared to the others, with laser focus, the finest fruit imaginable, concentration en masse yet lively and direct. Mint infused cherries, expensive tobacco, rosemary, asphalt, violets and moist earth are just few of the aromas you get when you coax the glass.
The taste is exactly like the worn expression - "an iron fist in a velvet glove". Everything in balance, every screw and nut in the right place, the tannins are polished with the finest cloth and the finish goes on for over a minute. Give this 8+ years and you are looking at perfection.
98p   (tasted 2018/05)

Tuesday, 12 June 2018

2015 Efferus, Ruggabellus

I tasted this beauty last year and bought a couple of bottles. Lets see what has happened since last year.

2015 Efferus, Ruggabellus
The fine bluberries are still there but the nose has become more herbal and a with a green, forestlike, attractive aroma. Some light bonfire notes. Light yet intense. Very fine.
The taste is more or less the same as one year ago with a lovely mix of blueberries, black olives and meat. A fine acidity. Long. Easily drunk today but I will give my remaining bottles (if I can resist...) 3+ years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2018/06)

Thursday, 7 June 2018

Two Bottles Of Pinot Noir

Two fine, different expressions of Pinot Noir.

2012 Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Lompoc Wine Co
A warm, balanced nose with notes of ripe raspberries, asphalt, fried herbs, cap gun smoke and tobacco. A very fine, laid back warmth.
The taste is ripe and fruity yet handomely restrained with a fine acidity and notes of tobacco infused raspberries, Finnish licorice, herbs and leather. A long, juicy finish. A hint of maturity. Very, very good. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village, Domaine de Tilleuls
After tasting this beauty a couple of months ago I bought a bunch. Time to test drive a bottle.
The nose is a dream, with spicy, deep and concentrated aromas of ripe wild raspberries, nutmeg, forest floor and raspberry licorice. High, intense and addictive.
The taste is pure and refreshing yet with a firm backbone, a stern acidity and a long, long, structured finish. However, the fruit is playful and flirty, with notes of hard raspberry candy, rosehips, licorice, tarragon and smoke. Just lovely. Will be fun following this over the years, I guess it will hitting its peak in 8-12 years time. I will report back then...
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

Monday, 4 June 2018

Tasting Lunch With Olivier Humbrecht

On my way from this tasting I asked myself - when was the last time I had a bottle of wine from Alsace? I couldn´t remember. Probably a couple of years back, I kind of remember a so-so bottle of Cuvée Fredérick Emilé.
The next question that came to mind was - why don´t I drink it more often, at least when it is as good as these bottles were?

Thanks VinUnic for the invite and thanks to Olivier Humbrecht for making a passionate and knowledgeable claim for the these wines.

2015 Zind
This can´t be bottle as an Alsace wine beacuse of the Chardonnay content (2/3, the rest is Auxerrois). Not minding that, this is a fine wine with a deep, layered noes with notes of yellow plums, pickled ginger, cucumber and sun warm rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is broad and fine with notes of candied lemons, chrushed rocks, dry bread and some grassy notes. The nose has a dried up sweetness that doesn´t come through in the taste, it is bone dry. For drinking now.
88p   (tasted 2018/05)

2016 Riesling Heimbourg
The 16 Heimbourg has a cool, refreshing nose with notes of lemons, chrushed stones, clay and a hint of metal/iron. Fresh and fine.
The taste is racy and fine with notes of lime peel, chalk and some salty notes in the finish. For drinking the coming 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)

2016 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
Here we move up in quality, with a deep, concentrated, luscious nose with notes of chalk, ripe lemons, dry grass, hard lemon candy and oyster shells. Complex and fine.
The taste is tight, ripe and focused with notes of ripe lemons, lemon grass, chalk and lots of minerals. Long and promising 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2011 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
This 7 year old Riesling shows a seedy, nice nose with notes of decaying summer flowers, wheat bread, gravel and grass. A tad anemic compared to the others. A fine structure though.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of dried yellow plums, dry lemons and hay. Again, a fine backbone but the flesh is somewhat missing.
88p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
Oooh boy, come to Papa! This delivers the goods in the shape of apricots, furniture polish, dried herbs, rust and wet stones. Very deep,  complex and fine. The slightest hint of botrytis. Oliver confirmed that there were probably some botrytis affected grapes in the mix. Today they are discarded. I wonder how the current vintages then will age, time will tell, but some botrytis grapes in the 1999 blend just makes is complex.
The taste is big, round, mature and lovely with notes of apricots, candied lemons, warm sand, hand cream and metal. Very long, intense and still perky. Great wine, for now and 3+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/05)

Pinot Gris
2016 Pinot Gris Heimbourg
A young, fresh nose with notes of herbs, earth, plums and slate. Pure and fine. A touch of deep fish stock after a while. Really good.
The taste is pure and refined with notes of dried up lemon ice cream, warm grass, plums and hay. A very fine acidity. Long and fine. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2016 Pinot Gris Windsbuhl
The Clos Windsbuhl has a high, somewhat reductive nose with notes of grass, ripening yellow fruits, steel and gravel. A tad locked up.
The taste is dry, seedy and structured (in a fine way) with notes of lemon peel, clay, incense and minerals. Very tight but promising. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)

2011 PInot Gris Thann
The last vintage with the name Thann on the label. This is really nice! An open, direct, sweet nose with notes of yellow plums, smoke, handcream, dried up honey and wet stones. Lovely.
The taste is big and juicy with notes of apricots, plums, smoke and warm grass. A long, warm finish with a fine acidity. A fine maturity. Really good. A bargain at 23 Euro.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl
Another stunning 99. According to Olivier this was harvested in mid November and the sugar level was 40 gr/lit! Now, 19 years later the sugar has, on the nose, subdued to notes of plum cakes, yellow pears, ski wax and dry honey. Intense and fine.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of lemon candy, yellow plums, smoke and warm asphalt. Starts out semi dry but ends bone dry. Very, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)

2016 Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl
Another fine 2016, with a pure, handsome nose with notes of warm grass, herbs and summer flowers.
The taste is spicy and fat with that typical soap/overripe flowery notes that are so common in Gewúrztraminer (and the reason why I normally don´t like the grape) but this one keeps it in check and also displays notes of wet asphalt, gravel and smoke. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Gewürztraminer Goldert
A very deep, intense nose with notes of passion fruit, roses, dry caramel and spices. Very fine.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of dried flowers, hand cream, gravel and smoke. A very fine acidity. Long and generous. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2003 Gewürztraminer Goldert
Olivier said that this could "be drunk as an anti freezer"... The nose doesn´t reveal its 17% alcohol content and is very interesting with notes of dried plums, rubber, nail polish, lemon candy and smoke. A very fine but odd nose.
The taste is concentrated and large scaled with notes of dried herbs in liquor, birch sap, dried plums and some notes resembling Triple Karmeliet. Very long and intense.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl
A very deep, multi layered nose with notes of dried flowers, wool, iron, hay, lemon cream and minerals. Very, very good.
The taste is big, tight and focused with notes of dried flowers, quince marmelade, apricots, hay and chrushed rocks. A fine dryness at the end.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

Saturday, 2 June 2018

Chicken & Burgundy

Dinner a couple of nights ago - succulent chicken breasts with a morel sauce and mashed potatoes. A still young Volnay went perfectly with the dish.

2005 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillardes, Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
This 13 year old Volnay is still on the young side of things. It takes two hours before it really opens up, then with fine notes of red beets, dark flowers, raspberry licorice and iron. Deep and fine with a rather stern, but highly likeable, personality.
The taste is medium bodied and still tight with notes of spicy raspberries, violets, dried mushrooms and lots of gravel. Long and very finely balanced. Again, not a charmer but this I like. Glad I have more, there is no hurry here.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

Thursday, 31 May 2018

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2008 Aubry De Humbert

The Barolo Boys tasted the 2006 Aubry de Humbert a couple of months ago and I was eager to taste the 2008!

2008 Aubry de Humbert
From the bat, this feels much younger than the 2006, with a finely tuned, somewhat restrained nose with notes of dried up lemon curd, oyster shells, flint, fennel and candied lemons. Very handsome in a laid back style. Needs time.
The taste is cool, restrained and tight with notes of lemon peel, flint, chalk, cucumber water and some flowery notes. Long, structured and promising, but wait at least 4+ years. Didn´t budge for the two days is was open.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

Wednesday, 30 May 2018

A Mini Vertical Of Rancia, Felsina

This Chianti Classico Riserva has always been a favourite of mine. It usually requires some years in the cellar before really approachable.
The first vintage was 1983. Sadly I haven´t tasted that one but the 1990 was really good a couple of years ago.

The wine is 100% Sangiovese from 3 plots in Podere di Rancia in Castelnuovo Berardenga with various soils. The vinification has changed over the years regarding maturation. In Burton Anderson´s book Best Italian Wines from 2001 the naturation is described as "14-16 months in wood (part in new or once-used barriques ans part in casks)." Nowadays, according to Felsina´s website it is 18-20 months in new French barriques. And there was a different oak touch between the older ones and especially the 2010.
Four fine vintages tasted the other day.

1997 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
This 21 year old displays a deep, round, mature nose with notes of old leather, dried cherries, flower water, tobacco and mocha. Very, very good. With air it resembles a mature Bordeaux. A fine scent of moist forest floor.
The taste is medium bodied, mature and dry with notes of dried cherries, pencil shavings, coffee and granite. A very fine dryness at the end. There is touch of salted black fruit. Very fine. Fully mature.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
There is a hint of maturity on the nose but at the same time copius amounts of fresh, juicy cherry fruit alongside notes of rosemary, ripe flowers, earth, handcream and Tuscan gravel. Just lovely.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of ripe red and black cherries, hard cherry candy, rosemary, sweet lingonberries and bakelite. Very long. A touch of maturity. Aristocratic. Great wine from now and the coming 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
The 06 feels a loot younger than the 01. You have to swirl, even with some time in the glass, vigorously to get some notes of ripening cherries, gravel, juniper berries and a hint of violets. A fine depth. Verging on being a tad angular. Need lots of time.
The taste is seedy and upright with notes of red cherries, violet pastilles, chrushed rocks and bakelite. Long and stern. There is fine quality but it feels locked up today. Wait at least 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
A deep, intense, balsamic nose with notes of dark cherries, coffee powder, violets, almond paste and a hint of chocolate. You can feel that there is more new oak on the nose on this one compared to the other vintages. But a lovely fruit sweetness takes care of it perfectly.
The taste is young, tight yet vivid with notes of licorice covered cherries, tobacco, earth and new leather. Very long and ample. This has lots of potential, give it 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)