Wednesday, 16 January 2019

1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Print Label, Mitchelton


1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Print Label, Mitchelton
Opens a bit restrained but just after thirty minutes in the glass it offers up a mature, delicate nose with notes of plums, violets, fried herbs, iodine and a touch of mint. Very fresh and alive.
The taste is round and generous with notes of mint chocolate, plums, tar, tobacco and undergrowth. A fine dryness at the end. Drinking perfect with a mushroom pizza on a Wednesday evening.
88p   (tasted 2019/01)

Tuesday, 15 January 2019

The Baroli Of New Years Eve


It has become a tradition to drink Barolo on New Years Eve, and I´m not complaining! This was the lineup on the evening when 2018 turned into 2019.

2004 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi, Burlotto
A deep, fairly dark nose with notes of black cherries, dried raspberries, dark flowers, violets and tobacco. Very, very fine. High and fine. Darker that the Cannubi from Burlotto are nowadays.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of ripe cherries, salt licorice, minerals and violets. A long, taut finish. Still on the young side of things. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2018/12)

2001 Barolo Brunate, Marcarini
The Marcarini shows of an elegant, pure nose with some maturity and notes of salmiak, dried cherries, autumn leaves and a hint of fresh stables. A lot of mushrooms after a while. Very, very good.
The taste is round and inviting but at the end of the finish there are some sandy tannins. Fine notes of asphalt, dried raspberries, rosehips and tobacco. Drink now and the coming 10+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/12)

2001 Barolo San Rocco, Azelia
This starts of wide open and sweet with vanilla cooked cherries, Finnish licorice, smoke, tobacco and some mint - there is some oak here... But, as the evening went on it gets subdued, and the day after it was gone, and then it was only pure Nebbiolo fruit showing.
The taste is big and forward with sweet cherry fruit and additional notes of dark chocolate, tobacco and asphalt. Again, pure, luscious fruit the day after. The score is of the wine the day after.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)

2001 Barolo Riserva Vignolo, Cavallotto
The Vignolo from Cavallotto is always a treat. The nose is deep, focused and a bit laid back with notes of candle grease, dried strawberries, rosehips, mushrooms and a touch of coffee grounds. Very refined. Has barely reached the first stages of maturity.
The taste is closed in, even with a couple of hours in a decanter, with notes of red currants, forest floor, rosehips, violets and gravel. Very long and beautifully balanced. Needs 6+ more years in the cellar.
94p   (tasted 2018/12)

2001 Barolo Vigna Rionda, Luigi Pira
A very finely structured nose with notes of black cherries, fresh rose petals, warm earth, paint and violets. Very deep and refined. Just lovely. A tad of maturity but this has places to go.
The taste is focused and broading with sandy tannins and a lovely strawberry/cherry/red currant fruit paired with notes of forest floor, rosehips and violets. A stunning bottle of Barolo.
96p   (tasted 2018/12)


The Wines Of New Years Eve 2017

The Wines Of New Years Eve 2016

Saturday, 12 January 2019

Drinking Tonight - 2015 Syrah, Lilian


2015 Syrah, Lilian
After tasting this a couple of months ago I bought some and thought that it was time for a test drive in my home environment.
The nose is a dream - cool, energetic notes of hand pounded veal meat, chrushed white peppers, bay leaves, ripe blueberries and ripening blackberries, bonfire smoke and a hint of cocoa. Very deep and refined. Young of course but shows a really fine balance.
The taste is handsome and seamless with notes of a dried up blueberry pie, Finnish licorice, burning birch wood, white pepper and violets en masse. The finish is long, structured and sports a handful of polished tannins. Really fine. With home made burgers and Heston Blumenthal´s chips, a perfect pair. 8+ years.
96p   (tasted 2019/01)


Earlier vintages tasted:
2013   (93p)
2010 & 2012   (93p/97p)

Friday, 11 January 2019

One & A Half Bottle Of Sherry

I have said it before and will probably say it again and again - I drink way too little Sherry!

NV Fine Old Oloroso Sherry, ?
Imported by J. B. Hinkers Nachfolger, München in the 30`s? The 40`s? The bottles is a bit crooked and tilt to the right.
The nose is fine and lively with notes of herbs, dryroasted nuts, gravel, dried sage and veal stock. Not that deep though.
The taste has a fine intensity and are medium dry with notes of dry red apples, nuts, gravel, herbs and herbs. Lacks complexity but keeps things together in a nice way. Not amiss.
84p   (tasted 2019/01)


NV Oloroso Tradicion 30 Years, Bodegas Tradicion
A very deep, hauntingly beautiful nose with lovely notes of dried tangerines, ski wax, white raisins, band aid, soot, dried mushrooms and about 50 more scents... Stunning!
The taste is very tight and intense with grace and poise, with notes of apricots, pan fried nuts, tar, herbs and a gymcarpet. The finish is counted in minutes. Even better than when tasted three years ago (a different bottling though).
95p   (tasted 2019/01)

Monday, 7 January 2019

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2018

Another year has passed, 921 bottles tasted and drunk, of which 355 was a Barolo (a Barolo a day keeps the doctor away...).

It is always tough to narrow it down to ten wines but with a glass of 2009 Estate Cuvée, Kapcsándy it becomes a tad more easy!
As always a lot of great dinners and tasting with friends - thanks all!

Here they are, in vintage order.
A toast to a equally great 2019!

1890 Malmsey, Freitas Martins
Old Madeira have a special place in my heart, and when they are this good, you just surrender to its etheral beauty.
99p   (tasted 2018/11)


1952 Barolo, Cappellano
Pinch me hard! Here I am, sitting at a table in La Coccinella with the Barolo Boys and Maria Teresa Mascarello, Roberto Conterno and Augusto Cappellano.
The occasion? A dinner with 14 bottles of Barolo, Cappellano, vintages ranging from 1947 to 2004. There were a lot of stunning bottles but one was perfect, the 1952. Words can´t to do justice to this wine.
Since the late Theobaldo didn´t want his wines to be scored, I never do (but in this instance you maybe can figure it out...)   (tasted 2018/04)

The 1952 to the right and Roberto Conterno in the background... Note the label on the 47 - a Super Barolo!
Three happy winemakers after a fantastic Cappellano dinner!

1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis, Sandrone
I arranged a vertical tasting of Cannubi Boschis a couple of months ago and it turned out to be a great event. The bottle that was my favourite was the 1990, a wine which I fourteen years ago gave a perfect score. On this night it came close...
98p   (tasted 2018/09)


The bottles tasted 
The man himself, Luciano Sandrone, from our visit in November 2018

1998 Côte-Rôtie La Turque, Guigal
It is nice to have friends who opens bottles like this! Roderick turned 50 in 2018 and treated us with an array of great bottles - this La Turque towered over the rest. Thanks Roderick!
99p   (tasted 2018/03)


2010 Syrah Vieilles Vignes, Simon Maye
The 2007 of this wine made last years list but the 2010 is an even greater bottle of Swiss Syrah. In a tasting with lots of fine wines this was the shining star. Thanks Sverker!
98p   (tasted 2018/02)


2010 Barolo Riserva Granbussia, Aldo Conterno
It is always a treat to visit Giacomo (twice in 2018!) and when we were there in November we got to taste all the 2015 Baroli (and probably the best Barbera I have ever tasted, the 2016) but despite their greatness they had to take the backseat to this perfect specimen. When released, I will buy. Plenty.
100p   (tasted 2018/11)


Giacomo with some of the bottles tasted...

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie, Il Marroneto
In May David and Ulf - thanks! - attanges a great tasting of 2012 Brunello di Montalcino. We tasted 10 bottles and there were many fine wines poured but the one that shone the greatest was this one. Give this 8+ years and you surely will have perfection in your glass.
98p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons, Aubert
Having never tasted anything from Aubert, but heard a lot about them, I was very glad to the opportunity to taste this beauty.
A lot of ripe Chardonnay fruit with melted butter, lemon cream and fried spices, but it keeps everything in check with a fantastic acidity and a stern structure. Thanks Marcus for bringing this bottle!
97p   (tasted 2018/08)


2013 Petrucci, Poderi Forte
Everything I want from a Sangiovese! Stunningly pure, ripe and with a rigid backbone, this gorgeous Tuscan really was delivering the goods at this tasting, held at Operakällaren, one on Swedens best restaurants. Thanks Jörgen!
96p   (tasted 2018/11)


2017 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Paolo Scavino
I know. This isn´t a "real" wine yet, since it still lies in those beautiful 50 hl casks in Scavino´s cellar, and who will know which parts will go inte the final blend? And will it as usual be a Riserva? These are some questions, but there is none regarding the quality of this nectar. This may very well rival the perfect 2010 in due course...
~97p   (2018/11)

Elisa Scavino pouring Rocche dell´Annunziata from the cask


Earlier years:
The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2017

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2016

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2015

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2014

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2013

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2012

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2011

Sunday, 6 January 2019

Barolo VS Barbaresco - Five Flights - And The Winner Is...

Barolo of course! At least to my palate, there were others that had it the other way around (poor sods...).
Miran opened these wines in pairs, we tasted them double blind and then got to vote on a winner in each flight. A fun exercise!

First Flight
1996 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi, La Spinetta
A deep, mature, creamy nose with notes of ripe black cherries, raspberry licorice, moist earth and died flowers. Round and in a fine state of maturity.
The taste is pure, refined and with a fine dryness, with notes of red and black cherries, earth, rosehips and herbs. A long, silky finish. Perfectly mature.
92p   (tasted 2018/12)


1997 Barolo Vigna Conca, Fratelli Revello
A deep, warm, expressive nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, dry tobacco, Christmas spices and fir wood. A fine, cool feeling. Not yet fully mature. Very fine.
The taste is seedy and tight with notes of dried cherries, autumn leaves, mushrooms and some balsamic notes. Very long and lingering with polished tannins. 3+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/12)

My vote on the first flight - wine no 2 = Barolo/1 - Barbaresco/0


Second Flight
1996 Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina, La Spinetta
A deep, spicy, leathery nose with notes of violets, green peppers, dried raspberries and forest floor. Deep and fine. Fully mature.
The taste is round, mature and juicy with notes of black olives, ripe cherries, rosehip and smoke. A long, warm finish with some rough, but nice, tannins.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)


2006 Barolo Vigna Rionda, Luigi Pira
A high class nose with boatloads of fine red fruit, dried rose petals, earth, some cold coffe scents and a dark perfumed note that lingers on. Very deep. Just lovely. Still on the young side of things though.
The taste is stern and steady with notes of dried raspberries, asphalt, dried flowers, old leather and a ever so slight touch of mint. The tannins are broad but perfectly balanced. 5+ years. Great wine!
95p   (tasted 2018/12)

My vote on the second flight - wine no 2 = Barolo/2 - Barbaresco/0


Third Flight
2001 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide, Bruno Rocca
This wine is a selection of the best grapes of Bruno Rocca´s vineayrds and are named after Bruno´s mother. It is a beauty. The nose is high, intense and multi layered with notes of dried stawberries, forest floor, dry licorice and a hint of mint. Starting to hit maturity. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of herbs, dried strawberries, autumn leaves and violets. There are some finely polished tannins making their presence in the finish. 4+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/12)


1989 Barolo Riserva, Rocche Dei Manzone
This has a deep, mature, lovely nose with notes of mushrooms, cooked raspberries, rosehips and a Christmas tree! A very fine, sweet maturity. Very deep.
The taste is round, warm and focused with notes of dried raspberries, licorice, undergrowth and loads of rosehips. A very long, caressing finish. Two fine wines but I must give my vote on this perfectly mature Nebbiolo.
93p   (tasted 2018/12)

My vote on the third flight - wine no 2 = Barolo/3 - Barbaresco/0


Fourth Flight
2007 Barolo Brunate, Vietti
A gorgeous, velvety, cool nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, violets, dark licorice, dried flowers and tobacco. Very deep and refined.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of dried cherries, asphalt, rosehips and sweet tobacco. Very long and intense. Not a trace of heat. A very fine wine indeed. 5+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/12)


2004 Barbaresco Rabajä, Bruno Rocca
The Rabajä displays a tight, deep nose with notes of black cherries, licorice, fir wood and a whiff of mint (as in the Maria Adelaide). Very, very good.
The taste is tight and complex with notes of raspberry licorice, dark flowers, warh herbs and some dark chocolate. The finish is long and fine. 6+ years.
92p

My vote on the first flight - wine no 1 = Barolo/4 - Barbaresco/0


Fifth Flight
2013 Barbaresco Ovello, Produttori del Barbaresco
The Ovello has a young, racy, fine nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, sand, herbs and paint. Very, very good.
The taste is seedy and tight with notes of red cherries, herbs, earth and orange peel. A long, linear, focused finish. Great potential. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/12)


2011 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
A dark, somewhat foursquare nose with notes of cigarette ash, dried cherries, bakelite and moist undergrowth. Very good fruit but a bit subdued in character.
The taste is warm and sandy with notes of dried lingonberries, earth, dry licorice and tobacco. Dry tannins. Again, very good fruit but the impression is of a angular wine (in a temporary phase?).
88p

My vote on the first flight - wine no 1 = Barolo/4 - Barbaresco/1

Friday, 4 January 2019

1976 Rioja Bordón, Bodegas Franco - Españolas


1976 Rioja Bordón, Bodegas Franco - Españolas
Drunk a couple of days ago with a medium spicy chicken dish. The nose is a bit shy at first but soon evolves into that classic dill, dried strawberries and undergrowth nose that only old school Rioja can bring forth. Some additional notes of dry tobacco and bonfire. Elegant and fine with a hint of VA.
The taste is mature and soft with notes of a dried up red currant jam, earth, tobacco and old leather. A fine acidity. The finish cuts of a bit short. Better on the nose. Very good though.
86p   (tasted 2019/01)

Wednesday, 2 January 2019

Chicken Nuggets & 2009 Estate Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard, Kapcsándy


We have been baby sitting for almost a full day today, and I´m just saying, a three year old and a eight month baby is hard work when you´re my age....
Need something really good to go with the home made chicken nuggets with four sauces - the truffle and onion ones were the best (both kids loved the nuggets but not the sauces...)

2009 Estate Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard, Kapcsándy
Tasted three years ago, a dream then and a dream now. The funky notes that I noticed then - and loved - had receded into a more traditional but oooh so fine and aristocratic Cabernet wine.
The nose is deep, tight and complex with notes of perfectly ripe black currants, cap gun smoke, violets, iron, fried bay leaves and a hint of orange peel. Hauntingly beautiful - again.
The taste is intense, multi layered and structured with notes of chocolate covered orange peel, violets, dried up black currant jam, graphite, sweet minerals and warm sand. The finish goes on and on and on. Very, very handsome. Will be even better in 8+ years time.
97p   (tasted 2019/01)


Tuesday, 1 January 2019

Piedmont 2015 - Part IV

The last two Langhe Nebbiolo (for now). Can´t wait to go down to Piedmont this spring and start to taste the released 2015 Baroli!
Some more Nebbiolo´s below, tasted during 2017/2018.

2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Elio Sandri
This has a dark, broading nose with notes of black cherries, licorice, dark flowers, chrushed rocks and some leather scents. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight and broad shouldered with notes of raspberry licorice, scorched earth, smoke and violets. A very long, concentrated finish with sandy tannins. The one that most resemble the "real" thing. Very fine.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)


2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Borgogno
One could have a preconcevied idea, that from this large producer something bland would be produced. In this case one would be wrong.
The nose is low keyed but fine with notes of ripe lingonberries, dried flowers, rosehips, forest floor and a hint of band aid. Opens up nicely in the glass. Very good.
The taste is dry and fine with notes of ripe lingonberries, red currants, earth, dried mushrooms and herbs. A vere fine acidity. Maybe a tad anonymous but given blind impossible to place anywhere else then in the Langhe heartland.
87p   (tasted 2018/12)


Previously tasted 2015 Nebbiolo´s:

2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Bartolo Mascarello  (92p)/(93p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiòt, Fratelli Alessandria  (92p)
2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore, Luciano Sandrone  (92p)
2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore, Marengo  (90p)/(92p)
2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Santa Rosalie, Brezza  (91p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Luigi Pira  (91p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Burlotto  (91p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo La Malora, Vite Colte  (91p)
2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Ca Veja, Paitin  (90p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo Peirass, Silvio Grasso  (90p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Carlo Revello  (89p)
2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba, Cerretto  (86p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, E. Pira  (86p)
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Livia Fontana  (85p)
2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba 27, Rattalino  (84p)

Sunday, 30 December 2018

Piedmont 2015 - Part III

Up to now I have tasted ca 20 2015 Baroli from cask and bottle, not nearly enough to make a judgement, but.....if I would so anyway, I would say that in comparison with the 2013 vintage (which I love) the 15´s are denser and warmer with more structure. But they still have a fine balance.
They will surely last longer then the 13´s but they don´t have the charm of that vintage. I will buy but maybe not as much as I have of the 13´s.
2015 Baroli tasted - so far... - from Aldo Conterno, Vietti, Luigi Pira, Renato Corino, Brovia, Guido Porro and Marengo.

Some more 2015 Langhe Nebbiolo´s:
2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Andrea Oberto
An open, fine nose with notes of dried strawberries, forest floor, damsons, rose petals and warm tiles. A very fine warmth. Very, very good.
The taste is young and upfront with notes of ripe lingonberries, asphalt, dried flowers and rosehips. Refreshing acidity and silky tannins. Long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2018/12)


2015 Langhe Nebbiolo La Chiusa, Chionetti
A fresh, high, leaning on tart, nose with notes of lingonberries, incense, dried mushrooms and dry licorice. A fine intensity and lots of character.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of raspberry licorice, earth, violets, rosehips and bakelite. Very nicely structured. This I like. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)

Friday, 28 December 2018

Piedmont 2015 - Part II

2015 is shaping to be a really good, but maybe not a great vintage in total. Tasting the Dolcetto´s last year revealed some examples that were a tad heavy but for the most part they were solid and good.

The Barbera´s on the other hand has faired really well from this, a tad warmer year. During this year I have tasted stunning bottles from Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Vietti, Giacomo Conterno, Marengo, Luciano Sandrone, Burlotto, Luigi Pira, Vajra, Renato Corino and more. They are ripe, rich but very finely structured and giving heaps of drinking pleasure.

Then there is the Nebbiolo´s. As I wrote in Part I, the Langhe Nebbiolo´s gives a good impression of the upcoming Barolo vintage. Here are two more.

2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Moccagatta
A spicy, open, fine nose with notes of violet licorice, forest raspberries, dark flowers and fir wood. Very, very good. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is cool and seedy with notes of ripening lingon- and blueberries, forest floor, asphalt and spices. Fine, silky tannins. Drinking great now but will surely age well.
90p   (tasted 2018/12)


2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Cascina Corte
A laid back, fine nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, undergrwoth, raspberry vinegar, candle grease and dry licorice. Multi layered and fine.
The taste is tight and linear with notes of sour cherries, raspberry licorice, gravel and almond paste. A high acidity. Long, with a fine dryness at the end.
89p   (tasted 2018/12)

Thursday, 27 December 2018

Stilton & Port - 1985 Taylor´s Vintage Port

Christmas - Stilton & Port - what a giveaway!

1985 Taylor´s Vintage Port
From a half bottle, this exudes a dark, sweet and intoxicating nose from the glass, with notes of dades, green raisins, chocolate mousse, bonfire, toasted almonds, a hint of cognac and molasses. A lovely depth and richness.
The taste is deep and profound with strenght, balance and concentration, with notes of fried Brazil nuts, nougat, dark violets, dades and moist dark clay. Long, long and rewarding. Still young of course but irresistible today.
94p   (tasted 2018/12)


Wednesday, 26 December 2018

Drinking Tonight - 1995 Gravello, Librandi


1995 Gravello, Librandi
This Calabria blend of 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon shows of a mature, lightly meaty, undergrowth nose with notes of dried cherries, tobacco, sweet violets and smoke. A hint of molasses. A fine dried up sweetness. Very, very good.
The taste is round, warm and mature with notes of ripe red cherries, dry licorice, scorched earth and herbs. Broad shouldered and fine. Sweet, soft tannins in the back of the finish. A bargain, like the 93, tasted two years ago.
88p   (tasted 2018/12)

Saturday, 22 December 2018

Drinking Tonight - 2008 Brunello Di Montalcino Poggio Al Vento, Col d´Orcia

2008 Brunello Di Montalcino Poggio Al Vento, Col d´Orcia
A deep, lovely, multi layered nose with notes of perfectly ripe cherries, violets, sandelwood, lovely floral aromas and chrushed rocks. Very handsome. So fine. Young of course but the quality, oooh the quality. This is already a masterpiece but give this 8 years and...
The taste is tight, wonderful and with notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosemary, dried flowers, warm sand and dry chocolate. The tannins are polished with the finest cloth. High and fine. This is just stunning. Gotta get me more of this! For notes of a recent vertical of 1985 - 2007 Poggio Al Vento, see this link.
97p   (tasted 2018/12)


Friday, 21 December 2018

Piedmont 2015 - Part I

Soon, very soon, the first 2015 Baroli will be released. How is the 2015 vintage then? I will get back to that, The Barolo Boys have during the trips of 2018 and 2017 tasted a few..., from cask and from bottles.

But a really good way to get a glimpse of the upcoming vintage is to taste the Nebbiolo´s, which have been on the market for some time now.

I will the coming days - a perfect companion to the fat Christmas food - taste a bunch of Nebbiolo´s from 2015. Lets start with these two bottles!

2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Baluma, Diego Conterno
This opens a bit funky and with the aroma of the particuliar chicken farmyard that I have some problems with, but it recedes in the background after some time in the glass and leaves room for notes of spicy strawberries, forest floor, dry biscuits and hot gravel. Good in a all over the place kind of way.
The taste is seedy, cool and "natural" with notes of moist earth, sweet/sour raspberries, asphalt and beetroot. A fine warmth. A very good acidity. Except for the chicken farm notes, a very good wine.
87p   (tasted 2018/12)


2005 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore, Bruno Giacosa
Right out of the gate this is a charmer, with notes of cranberries, hard cherry candy, some balsamic scents and fresh herbs. Very, very good. A fine depth and a laid back elegance.
The taste is initially silky but soon the polished tannins take over, alongside fine notes of ripe lingonberries, earth, herbs and chrushed rocks. Has a high drinkability factor.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)

Thursday, 20 December 2018

Some Fortified Wines To End The Tasting Season


The last tasting of the year in our mothly tasting group and Mikke of course delievered the goods, as he did last year.
All wines tasted double blind, except for the last one which we knew that it was a 2016.

1950 Sercial, Leacock´s
A fine, delicate nose with notes of dried yellow plums, dates, rum raisins, salt rocks and a hint of saw dust. Deep and complex.
The taste is multi layered and complex with notes of fried nut, bakelite, dried tangerines and a fine salty note. Very long. A high intensity. A very fine acidity but I remember this wine with a searing acidity the times I have tasted it, some 10 years ago. It has mellowed, at least this bottle.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)



1982 Colheita Bual, Cossart Gordon
A spicy, fine, deep nose with notes of cold mulled wine, French nougat, warm dust and ginger bread. Very fine.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of dark plums, dades, smoke and fried nuts. A long, long finish with a fine combination of alcohol, acidity and body.
92p   (tasted 2018/12)

1988 Colheita Terrantez, d´Olivieras
Aaaaaah, this has depth and complexity in spades! A very deep, intoxicating nose with notes of plums, detergent, old leather, undergrowth, stables and nougat. Very, very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of chocolate covered apricots, smoke, old tobacco and chrushed rocks. A high, fine acidity. The finish is counted in minutes. Just stunning.
95p   (tasted 2018/12)



2011 Pedro Ximénez de Añada, Alvear
Oh dear, this is not good. Apparently a 100p Parker wine...this wine is oxidized and cloying at the same time, from the get go to the finish. The first smell is that of a cheap strawberry wine that has started a secondary, not wanted fermentation. Then it has some wet cardboard scents, without being corked. All over the place, and not in any good places. Not fortified but pushing 17% alcohol.
The taste, ooh the taste, sweet, surupy and did I mentioned sweet? Sweet is good if there is a balancing acidity. There isn´t. 100p? Oh dear.
67p   (tasted 2018/12)

1978 Colheita Port, Kopke
Aaah, back to some good wine! A deep, concentrated nose with notes of raisins, dried dark flowers, blue ski wax, dades and the fine aroma of a childhood plastic car track that has gotten warm. Very, very good.
The taste is steady and fine with notes of fried nuts, raisins, fir wood, licorice covered chocolate and asphalt. Very long with a fine warmth. Some maturity. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/12)



2016 Vintage Port, Dow´s
Well, we did now that it was a 16 Port, and the colour - pitch black - was a kind of give away... The nose is high and fine with notes of blackberries, violets, scorched earth and raspberry licorice. Given this blind I would, on the nose alone, ventured that this would be a well behaved Zinfandel or a more modern Aglianico, not a fortified wine.
The taste is broad and tight with notes of ripe blueberries, graphite, violets and dark chocolate. Some green raisins in the finish. A fine structure, but for a very young Port, the tannins are very well behaved and on the smooth side of things. For you youngsters, give this 20+ years and tell me how it turned out.
91p   (tasted 2018/12)

Tuesday, 18 December 2018

2000 Château Citran


2000 Château Citran
This 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot sports a fine, open, mature nose with notes of red and black currants, autumn leaves, some live stock in a distance and coffe grounds. A fine maturity with sandelwood and leather coming up to surface after some time in the glass. Very, very good.
The taste is soft, mature and velvety with notes of dried damsons, tobacco, earth and some juniper berries. Finely polished tannins. A hint of austerity at the end. Drinking perfect now.
89p   (tasted 2018/12)

Monday, 17 December 2018

Some Rieslings - Schaefer, Prüm, Keller, Schäfer-Fröhlich & More

2001 Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese, Müller-Catoir
A elegant, low keyed, maturing nose with notes of dried up lavender honey, sun warm rocks and lemon/licorice candy. Very, very good.
The taste is semi dry - initially - and pure with notes of candied lemons, salt rock, dried apricots and minerals. A very fine acidity. Ends dry. In a lovely state of maturity.
90p   (tasted 2018/06)




2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Willi Schaefer
A cool, spicy, high nose with notes of grey pears, birch leaves, petrol and chrushed rocks. Crisp and fine.
The taste is fine, light and expressive with notes of chalk, spices, lemon peel and grey pears. Long and lingering. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2018/06)

2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Willi Schaefer
A high, intense nose with notes of lime peel, starfruit, wet asphalt and white peach. Very handsome. Lots of focus and concentration. Still young.
The taste is refined and intense with notes of sweet lime, candied lemons, moist earth and a salt/sour/sweet note that is fantastic. Very long. This is brilliant.
95p   (tasted 2018/06)




1997 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Joh. Jos. Prüm
A very deep, complex nose with notes of dried up vanilla ice cream, a rubber carpet, white currants and honey pastilles. A lovely maturity. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dry pine apple, rubber, autumn leaves, honey and sweet minerals. A long, long finish with a brilliant acidity. At 21 year of age, still an adolescent.
95p   (tasted 2018/06)

2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling GG, Schäfer-Fröhlich
A young, perky nose with notes of white pepper, grass, pear ice cream and steel. Lively and fine.
The taste is earthy and steely with notes of pears, white currants, steel and minerals. A high intensity. Long and fine. Still very young.
91p   (tasted 2018/08)




2016 Bockenauer Stromberg Riesling GG, Schäfer-Fröhlich
A very stony, lightly herbal, fresh nose with notes of elderberries, grass, iron and minerals. Very, very young, doesn´t show of much at this state.
The taste is dry, crisp and stony with notes of lime peel, chrushed rocks, white currants and a touch of ginger. Tight. Needs time, 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/08)

2014 Niersteiner Riesling Kabinett -H-, Keller
H for Hipping. A very fascinating nose, with an initial whiff of an old outboard two-stroke engine combined with scents of grape, apricots, dried flowers and slate. Really fine. Very deep.
The taste is crisp and racy with notes of quince, birch sap, tangerines and grape. A cleansing acidity. Very, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/08)



2005 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
A deep, somewhat mature nose with notes of dried up lemoncello, wet asphalt, herbs and dry grass. Very good but not with that extra lift that the bottles from Dönnhof usually have.
The taste is almost fully dry with notes of herbs, dry mango, grass and gravel. A bit linear. Good though. I don´t think it will improve.
85p   (tasted 2018/08)

2008 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling GG, Schäfer-Fröhlich
An open, direct nose with notes of passionfruit, asphalt, lemon cream and earth. A bit iodine after a while. Interesting and fine.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of grape, iron, lime peel and slate. Tighter on the palate. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/11)






2002 Rheingau Riesling Kabinett, Robert Weil
A mature, round, fine nose with notes of dried up lemon ice cream, grass, iron and white flowers. Very fine.
The taste is dry and concentrated with notes of grilled lemons, dry peach, slate and grass. Long and fine. Perfectly mature.
90p   (tasted 2018/11)

2006 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil
A deep, concentrated nose with notes of dried apricots, diesel oil, passionfruit, fried nuts and a touch of saffron. Very deep and complex.
The taste is seedy, fine and multi layered with notes of candle grease, apricots, nuts and earth. Long and balanced. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/11)




2004 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese, Keller
A very deep, concentrated nose with notes of ripe apricots, ripe herbs, lemon licorice, asphalt and a touch of saffron. Very fine.
The taste is rich and concentrated with ripe yellow apples, saffron, almond paste and earth. Very long. A fine maturity. Lovely.
92p   (tasted 2018/11)