Thursday, 16 January 2020

Two More Spätburgunder

2012 Kirschberger Pinot Noir, Philip Kuhn
An open, inviting nose with notes of ripe raspberries, Asian spices, bonfire and some balsamic scents. A fine warmth.
The taste is spicy and vigorous with notes of raspberry licorice, pipe tobacco, bonfire and red beets. Long and warm. A fine, dry finish. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2020/01)

2015 Wiesoppenheimer Am Heiligen Häuschen Spätburgunder, J. Kiefer
A warm, spicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, Finnish licorice, some blackberries and candle grease. A fine depth.
The taste is upfront ans steady with notes of raspberries, red currants, gravel and violets. Very good. A tad short.
87p   (tasted 2020/01)

Monday, 13 January 2020

A 14 Bottle Pinot Noir Evening

M invited to a blind tasting. We thought (as always...) that the theme would be Nebbiolo. Turned out we were wrong.
In all, 21 bottles for four tasters, a tranquil evening...
All wines tasted double blind.

Some whites to start the evening:
2018 Scheurebe, Keller
A fine, grassy (at first) nose with notes of cucumber, gravel, white pepper and with warmth a lot of grapefruit. Racy and fine.
The taste is light, refined and pure with notes of white pear, lime and grapefruit. Lots of chrused rocks in the finish. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/12)

2015 Riesling Kabinett Limestone Goldkapsel, Keller
A crisp, fresh nose with notes of chalk, starfruit and birch sap. Young, tight and very fine.
The taste is pure and elegant with notes of Seville oranges, chalk and lemon peel. A very fine acidity. Long. Really fine.
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

2003 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil
A finely mature, rich nose with notes of peaches, white raisins, hot grass and a hint of detergent. Round and fine.
The taste is balanced and mature with notes of dried apricots, gravel and dried grass. A fine waxy character. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/12)

2010 Chardonnay, Calera
An interesting experience - opens very old and clumsy with notes of burnt butter, old nuts and some apricot aromas. Not good. But after two hours in the glass and at room temperature it turns into a old Chablis kind of wine. Not great but very much better than before.
The taste makes the same transformation as the nose, not good at first but becomes more interesting with air. From a half bottle. Maybe 76p at first but then...
85p   (tasted 2019/12)

2010 Viognier, Calera
Also form a half bottle, this wine (from my last favourite grape) displays a steely, foursquare nose with notes of almonds, old spices and the scent of grass cut by a rusty lawn mower.
The taste is dry and one dimensional with notes of chalk, dry ginger and grass. The acidity lies apart from the fruit.
78p   (tasted 2019/12)

The Pinot´s - Flight I
2009 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard, Calera
The six half bottles from Calera displayed very different characteristics and was a interesting lecture in what different soil brings to the wine.
Ryan vineyard (with the Jensen) was the most non Pinot wines. I was leaning to a Langhe Nebbiolo, with its cool, smoky nose with notes of licorice and cherry fruit and a tight, sandy taste with fine grained tannins. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/12)

2009 Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard, Calera
The Reed on the other hand showed of a classic Pinot nose, with notes of earthy strawberries, spices and violets. Lovely.
The taste is silky and fine with dried strawberries, earth and violets. A very fine warmth. Very long.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

2009 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard, Calera
The Selleck offers up a deep, open nose with notes of cooked cherries, almonds, spices and moist earth. Big and bold. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of raspberry licorice, earth and fried herbs. A very fine acidity. Very much California Pinot (I thought).
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

2009 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard, Calera
Mills vineyard has fashioned a stunning Pinot. The nose shows balance and intensity with notes of ripe raspberries, fir wood, Asian spices and forest floor. Very refined.
The taste is long and luscious with notes of raspberry licorice, red beets, spices and earth. Complex and fine. I had this placed in Burgundy.
95p   (tasted 2019/12)

2009 Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard, Calera
Next up is de Villiiers, which sports a deep, warm nosew ith notes of raspberry jam, licorice, fried herbs and a hint of wood. Very, very good.
The taste is big and spicy with notes of ripe raspberries with some blueberries tossed in, Finnish licorice and undergrowth. Very long. Intense.
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

2009 Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard, Calera
Jensen is the one I have tasted most often among Calera´s vineyards, and I have ususally liked it very much. Not the 2009 though. The nose is big and brawny with lots of warm herbs, burnt bread, damsons and hints of dark chocolate.
The taste is big and juicy with notes of dried up cherry jam, fried herbs and scorched earth. Some alcohol in the finish. I had this pegged as a Ch-du-Pape.
87p   (tasted 2019/12)

NV Les Longues Voyes Blanc de Noir V.V., Laherte Frères
As a intermission, this bubbly was poured. A new acquaintance for me, it offers up a distinct, handsome nose with notes of chalk, grey pears, red basil and hints of white chocolate. Very refined.
The taste is cool and tight with notes of white currants, chalk, red apples and lots of minerals. A very fine acidity. Very long and fine. No vintage on the label but it is a 2014. Dosage 4 gr. 100% Pinot Noir.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

The Pinot´s - Flight II
2008 Bockenauer Spätburgunder Trocken, Schäfer-Fröhlich
A very elegant and just slighty mature nose with notes of mushrooms, red cherries, wild strawberries and asphalt. Very, very fine.
The taste is pure and cool with notes of ripening raspberries, red cherries, forest floor and chrushed rocks. A very fine structure. Hints of maturity. Lovely.
94p   (tasted 2019/12)

2015 Spätburgunder -S-, Keller
A stunner. The nose is refined, earthy and wonderful with notes of rosehips, strawberries, smoke and licorice. Very deep. Comes from 25 year old vines in Morstein.
The taste is racy and intense with notes of wild strawberries, red cherries, fresh herbs and licorice. Very long, high and balanced. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2019/12)

2008 Bockenauer Spätburgunder `R` Trocken, Schäfer-Fröhlich
The second 08 from Schäfer-Fröhlich is a tad darker than the Bockenauer, with a seedy nose with notes of red beets, licorice and a autumn forest. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of red cherries, iron, earth and a hint of dark chocolate. Very long and fine. As with the Bockenauer, barely mature.
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées, La Pousse d´Or
This Monopole Volnay is still very young, with a deep, tight nose with notes of moist earth, a fine mix of straw- and raspberries, Asian spices and tiles. Deep and promising.
The taste is floral and concentrated with notes of cherries, rosehip, minerals and mushrooms. Silky tannins. Needs 6+ years. Very, very fine.
94p   (tasted 2019/12)

2015 Bürgel Spätburgunder GG, Keller
Keller kills it this evening (tasted blind mind you) with these bottles. The Bürgel shows a cool, lively, refined nose with notes of pomegranate, ripe strawberries, licorice and a whiff of black pepper. Very deep and racy. Just beautiful.
The taste is tight and multi layered with notes of fresh strawberry jam, forest floor, minerals and dry licorice. The finish goes on for minutes. Perfectly balanced. Lovely.
96p   (tasted 2019/12)

2015 Frauenberg Spätburgunder GG, Keller 
A high, elegant nose with notes of red beets, strawberries, violets and Christmas spices. Cool and very fine.
The taste is taut and tight with notes of ripe raspberries with some blueberries tossed in for complexity, damson, earth and violets. A very fine acidity. Needs some time. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

2014 Pinot Noir The Contender, Paul Lato
A very deep, willful, energetic nose with notes of fried nuts, wild strawberries, leather and ripe dark flowers. Very handsome.
The taste is broadshouldered yet very elegant and spicy with notes of root vegetables, dark earth, licorice and smoke. A very long, sappy finish. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2019/12)

2016 Pinot Noir Cuvée Alyle, Walter Hansel
A very fine, perfumed nose with notes of red currants, Asian spices a hint of tobacco and earth. Lively and very fine.
The taste is young, tight and spicy with notes of earth, red currants, mushrooms and tobacco. A fine acidity. Needs a couple of years in the cellar. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2019/12)

1995 Quarts de Chaume, Domaine des Baumards
A fat, fresh, intense nose with notes of dried apples, hay, dry fudge, honey and lots of sweet minerals. Some maturity but fresh as a daisy. Lovely.
The taste is pure and racy with notes of smoke, peaches, honey, lavender and chrushed rocks. A piercing acidity. Will live a long, long time. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2019/12)

Sunday, 12 January 2020

1989 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, F. Gaunoux

1989 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, F. Gaunoux
A deep, sweet, mature nose with notes of pipe tobacco, ripe strawberries, fried herbs and the delicate scent of an old worn Chesterfield sofa. Very fine. Perfect maturity.
The taste is silky and dry with notes of earth, dried strawberries, tobacco and red beet juice. A very fine acidity. Very long and refined. Much better than the bottle drunk four years ago.
93p   (tasted 2020/01)

Wednesday, 8 January 2020

Just Bought

10 more vintages of Potensac. To add to the previous purchase. Its shaping up to a deeeep vertical tasting...

Tuesday, 7 January 2020

1985 Barolo La Serra, Gianni Gagliardo

1985 Barolo La Serra, Gianni Gagliardo
A soft, finely matured Barolo with notes of undergrowth, Christmas spices, dried red fruits and Finnish licorice. A little loose around the edges. A fine dried up warmth to the fruit.
The taste is dry and mature with notes of dried strawberries, earth, spices and old tobacco. A medium long finish. A good balance between the fruit, acidity and the soft tannins. Fully mature. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2020/01)

Sunday, 5 January 2020

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2019

Another year has passed by. Lots of great wines tasted and drunk, in fact 862 wines has passed my lips during 2019.

252 was a Barolo. If I add all Arneis, Dolcetto, Barbera and Barbaresco bottles, I would venture that the wines from Piedmont make up about 40% of wines tasted during 2019...

I notice a lot of youngsters in this list. I have to drink more mature wine!

Here they are in vintage order.
A toast for a equally great 2020!

1990 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda, Bruno Giacosa
What to say - a perfectly mature bottle from the master himself, it doesn´t get any better than this. I am glad to have tasted this masterpiece twice. A great evening with three 1990 Red Label Giacosa, although one corked (ouuch!).
99p   (tasted 2019/01)

2001 Les Aspres, Domaine Cros
I think that this is the wine I have bought and drunk the most bottles of, about 30 times. I guess that
this bottle is the last one, or do some friend have bottles left..? :-)
96p   (tasted 2019/08)

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Cuvée, Kapcsándy
The Cabernets from Kapcsándy are one of best you could ask for, the first time I tasted the 09 Estate I had some haunting tasting memories of a young Latour. Drinking it in January of 2019 confirmed my earlier impressions.
97p   (tasted 2019/01)

2011 Barolo Riserva Bricco Rocca Riund, Cascina del Monastero
This wine was tasted during my visit to the estate in August. Meeting Loris for the first time was a real treat and I left smiling. I will be back. Great wines.
96p   (tasted 2019/08)

2011 Corton-Charlemagne, Pierre Yves Colin Morey
This gem was tasted during our monthly tasting group latest tasting dinner. PYCM has a great reputation and this bottle lived up to it.
96p   (tasted 2019/11)

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Jean-Claude Ramonet
When Ramonet hits on all cylinders there isn´t many producers that can compete. This was tasted
during summer and is - in 10+ years time - a candidate for perfection.
97p   (tasted 2019/07)

2015 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Paolo Scavino
It is always a treat visiting Elisa and this beauty was tasted during The Barolo Boys visit in March, alongside many, many more great bottles. One of my favourite Baroli, I recollect my tasting seven years ago when we tasted 12 vintages of Bric dël Fiasc.
97p   (tasted 2019/03)

2015 Spätburgunder GG Bürgel, Keller
Tasted very recently, this was a fantastic Pinot from Klaus Peter. Racy, refined and with all the juicy elements that makes up a great Pinot. Tasting notes will be published shortly.
96p   (tasted 2019/12)

2016 Dogliano Superiore Maioli, Anna Maria Abbona
The Dolcetto´s from Dogliano are, for the most part, another creature compared to the rest of the Dolcetto´s from Langhe. More structured, more vinous, more backboned. On my visit to Piedmont in August I tasted a bunch Dolcetto´s and this was a standout.
In the illustrious group "Dolcetto Boys & Girls" I am the very proud Member No 3 - Elisa Scavino is No 2...and my friend S is the founder and of course No 1.
93p   (tasted 2019/08)

2017 Barbera d´Alba Pre-phylloxera, Elvio Cogno
I have a soft spot for this wine that Valter produce. The visit to Elvio Cogno in the spring of 2019 was one of the highlights of the latest tour of the Barolo Boys. Is there a better Barbera anywhere?
96p   (tasted 2019/04)

Earlier years:
The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2018

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2017

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2016

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2015

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2014

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2013

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2012

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2011

Thursday, 2 January 2020

New Years Eve - Wine & Food

A great evening with dear friends - we ate & drank well!

Still young, perky, steely and lemony, this stunner needs another 6+ years in the cellar (92p)
A tartar of red beets with mustard, olive oil and balsam vinegar

A perfect match to the red beet dish - a high spirited nose with nuts, detergent and white nougat (90p)

Ceviche with prawns, avocado and more

Portabello mushroom in a puff pastry sheel with goat chesse, thyme and garlic

2002 Corton - barely mature with a fine intensity, nutty, grassy, lovely (93p)
2013 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes, Hubert Lamy - handsome, refined and vital with a long life ahead (94p)
2013 Meursailt Perriéres, Bouchard - deep, regal and just stunning (96p)

Scallops Provencale

Lobster tortelloni with lobster sauce and fried sage

1989 Barbaresco Dai Vigneto Loreto e Brich Ronchi  - only the second vintage from Albino Rocca, deep, meaty and with a rough balance, great wine (93p)
1989 Barbaresco Brichet, Sottimano - A tad sturdy and brawny but with fine, sweet fruit, still rather young (89p)
2001 Barolo Cannubi, Scavino - ripe strawberries, ripe earth, mushrooms and licorice, goes on and on and on (95p)

Lamb, potatoes, carrots and a port wine sauce
Happy New Year!

Sunday, 29 December 2019

Family Dinner - 2017 Meursault Narvaux, Louis Jadot & 1986 Château Potensac

2017 Meursault Narvaux, Louis Jadot
Christmas dinner with the family (instead of a vertical tasting of Kongsgaard Chardonnay...). I wanted something decent to drink so I opened these two bottles.
The young Meursault leaps out from the glass with a smoky, buttery nose with additional notes of tangerines, fudge and yellow flowers. Intense and very fine.
The taste is deep, broad and refined with notes of sweet oranges, fudge, smoke and a hitn of coconut. A very fine acidity. Long and luscious. 6+ years. Great wine.
From my perennial favourites Pain of Salvation, they released this in 2017.
94p   (tasted 2019/12)

1986 Château Potensac
Another bottle from the recent Potensac buy. This 86 displays a velvety, mature nose with notes of autumn leaves, clean stables, ripe black currants, violets and cold coffee. A very fine maturity.
The taste is mature, dry and structured with notes of red and black currants, undergrowth, pencil shavings and tiles. Medium bodied. Drinking perfect today.
And this catchy tune came out in 1986.
90p   (tasted 2019/12)

Saturday, 28 December 2019

1995 Vintage Port, Quinta Do Vesuvio

1995 Vintage Port, Quinta do Vesuvio
A deep, seedy nose with notes of damsons, raisins, dark chocolate, tar, sugared coffe, mahogany and blackberry jam. Deep, tight and complex. Still needs plenty of time.
The taste is intense and structured with notes of toasted almonds, dark chocolate, bonfire, fried nuts and sun warm asphalt. Very, very long. Needs 20+ years.
Two great tracks from 1995 - Blind Guardian & our Swedish At The Gates.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

Thursday, 26 December 2019

2004 Barolo, Josetta Saffirio

2004 Barolo, Josetta Saffirio
The Barolo Boys visited Sara Vezza Saffirio, who is the wine maker, for the first time in 2007 (see a pic from that visit below).
A deep, forest filled nose with mushrooms, undergrowth and freshly sawed wood. Some additional notes of dark licorice, dried tomatoes and asphalt. Still youngish.
The taste is dry and structured with notes of corinthians, dark chocolate, licorice and dark cherries. Some wood tannins at the end, which I´m sure will integrate nicely with another 8+ years in the cellar. Very, very good.
The "figure" on the label is not a Santa (even though he looks like one), but it feels appropriate to drink this bottle during the Christmas holidays. It has appeared on the label since 1985.
Lots of great albums in 2004, here are some highlights - Iced Earth/The ReckoningThe Haunted/All Against AllMotörhead/In The Name Of TragedyBehemoth/Demigod (I am in the audicende here!).
89p   (tasted 2019/12)

Monday, 23 December 2019

A Bottle Of Bubbly - Les Aventures Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs, AR Lenoble

Les Aventures Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, AR Lenoble
Christmas Eve tomorrov. All (well almost...) food is prepared and now its time to let the cork pop out of this beauty for something invigorating while making s simple but yummy pasta and mushroom dinner.
I tasted this five years ago, and today I thought it was time to open a bottle. The nose is fresh, chalky and steely with notes of tangerines, matchbox, clay, dry vanilla fudge and oyster shells. Deep and complex. A hint of maturity but this has places to go.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of orange peel, chalk, matchbox and yellow apples. A long finish with a fine acidity. Drinking fine today but really needs another 4+ years in the cellar. Now to open another bottle to go with the pasta...
Fine tunes from 2002 and 2006.
93p   (tasted 2019/12)

Sunday, 22 December 2019

1990 Barolo Riserva S. Bernardo, Palladino

1990 Barolo Riserva S. Bernardo, Palladino
I visited Palladino earlier this year, and tasted among other wines, the 23 years younger version of their Riserva, which was a stunner. So is the 1990.
The nose is a beauty, with deep, mature, complex notes of an autumn forest, dried ceps, dried up cherry jam, some rich tobacco and a touch of cinnamon. Just lovely.
The taste is a bit firmer than the nose leads you to believe, with some unresolved tannins, a fine hard cherry candy taste, cranberries, autumn leaves and asphalt. Very long. Fully matured I venture, but bottles like this will go on for 8+ years. Great wine.
More greatness from 1990...
94p   (tasted 2019/12)

Saturday, 21 December 2019

Now & Then - 1995 & 2015 La Grola, Allegrini

1995 La Grola
This mostly Corvina based wine (with some Syrah and Oseleta mixed in) has survided well, with a dark, gravelly nose with notes of dry leather, old coffee, dried black cherries and lavender. A tad compressed. Doesn´t open up with air.
The taste is dry and foursquared with notes of  dry red currants, olives, herbs and dry licorice. As with the same, compressed. A long, warm finish. Doesn´t really get better with air.
81p   (tasted 2019/12)

2015 La Grola
Upfront, juicy and broad shouldered, this is another ballgame. The nose displays notes of cherry jam, salt licorice, asphalt, rosemary and charcoal. Rich and very, very good.
The taste is ripe, dark and warm with notes of sweet/sour cherries, chrushed rocks, licorice and warm herbs. Long and luscious. Needs 5+ years to calm down some, but not 20 years...
88p   (tasted 2019/12)

Friday, 20 December 2019

2011 Château Potensac

2011 Château Potensac
Another bottle from my recent foray in the world of Potensac. The nose jumps out of the glass with perky notes of ripe black currants, plums, fried thyme and hints of melted asphalt. New leather. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is upfront, juicy and sandy with notes of plums, sweet tobacco, bakelite and hints of green leaves, that adds to the complexity. A tad short though. Very, very good. Should be drunk over the next 6 years.
Something else from 2011...
89p   (tasted 2019/12)