Wednesday 26 June 2013
In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XXVIII
At our Midsummer feast we also opened four bottles of Brunello to go along with the home made burgers. This became a really impressive line up!
1997 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli, Altesino
On the vertical tasting of 1997 Brunello´s earlier this year, the Montosoli from Altesino was badly corked. It was nice to get to taste a fine bottle.
The nose is deep, round and mature with sweet notes of ripe black cherries, dried flowers, veal stock and dark fudge. Very deep and perfectly mature.
The taste is tighter than the nose leads me to believe, with masses of muscovado sugar sprinkled black cherries wrapped in sandy tannins and a long, warm, intense finish. Lots of licorice, violet candy and warm gravel. Long and fine. This has matured very well and is ready for prime time drinking.
92p (tasted 2013/06)
1999 Brunello di Montalcino, Fanti Tenuta San Filippo
Apparently have The Sucker (aka James Suckling...) given this Brunello 99p. He wasn´t right this time either, but not as far from that he usually is... A new producer for me. Info here.
A deep, pure, gorgeous nose greats me when I put my nose in to the glass. Lovely notes of rosemary marinated cherries (what is that!), licorice, rosehips, tea leaves and Tuscan road dust. Very refined. Almost profound. Great wine.
The taste is both structured, elegant and decadent at the same time with lovingly sweet cherry fruit paired with perky tannins and a long, balanced finish. Notes of licorice, rosemary, violets and gravel. A really handsome wine. With 3-5 years more in the cellar this could almost reach Suckers rating.
94p (tasted 2013/06)
1982 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio Al Vento, Col d´Orcia
What a debut! This first vintage of Poggio Al Vento is a masterpiece. The nose is deep and complex and filled with beautiful notes of ripe red cherries, dried flowers, clay, orange peel, coffee beans, wet tea leaves and forest floor. Just stunning. Freshly poured its gorgeous, with two hours in the glass it is radiant, and it keeps that way all night long and also day two. What a wine!
The taste is tight, intense and concentrated, yet it flows like silk over the tongue. Lots and lots of ripe red cherries, roses, violets, summer warm gravel, licorice and a hint of coffe. There is still some polished tannins lurking in the end of the finish. This is a stunner! One of the best wines so far this year.
97p (tasted 2013/06)
2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio Al Vento, Col d´Orcia
A really interesting comparison, to have the 22 year younger sibling in the next glass. And this is no slouch neither! The nose is more upfront with notes of freshly matured cherries, fresh herbs, licorice and a touch of bonfire. But interesting enough there is some notes that resembles the 1982, there is (almost) the same scent of orange peels and coffee beans as in the older version. A very high, pure nose. Sooo young, but you can feel that this is going places. Very, very fine.
The taste is very tight, young and relentless in its concentration and power. But there is sweet, gorgeous fruit here also. And additional notes of licorice, herbs, sugared tea and hot gravel. The finish goes on and on and on. In the end - today - the tannins wins the match, but I´m certain that this in due course will rival the 1982 in quality. I know I will buy more of this.
93p (tasted 2013/06)