Thursday 31 October 2013

Compare & Contrast - 2011 Rossese Galeae, Ka*Mancine

You know how it is. You are on holiday, you find an interesting wine and taste it during this kind of conditions...

And you think it is great! The sun in your face, a platter of Italian delicacies and a glass of young, juicy Rossese - who wouldn't find it to be a great wine at that time and place?

And you think about it. You really liked the Rossese´s from Ka*Mancine, and Maurizio was a great guy.
So you order a 6 bottle pack of the same wine you drank on the terrace above. You get it home. Now it is autumn in Sweden and it looks like this... Its 8 degrees Celsius outside.

And you open one...or two bottles - how will it perform now...?

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Galeae, Ka*Mancine
Its like drinking summer all over again! :-) An open, juicy, fresh nose with notes of lingonberry bushes, rosehips, cranberries, rosemary and a touch of coffe powder. Very, very good. A salivating, fresh, upfront nose with depth to it.
The taste is young, fresh and spicy with notes of lingonberries, dried rosemary, red apple peel, forest floor and a hint of white pepper. Drinking as great as on a terrace in Cogoleto, Italy! I´ll have to order another 6 bottle pack...
90p   (tasted 2013/10)

Wednesday 30 October 2013

VinUnic Pours Some Fine Wines

I cannot resist an invitation when it comes from VinUnic, because there always will be great wines poured. Yesterday was no exception. Thanks Claes, Stefan & Cattis!

NV Louis Roederer Brut Premium
Out of a magnum this is upfront, juicy and shows a fine nerve. Notes of grapefruit, flowers and freshly baked bread. Very good.
The taste is young, fresh and elegant with notes of lime, yellow apples and gravel. A nice acidity. This is for drinking mouthfuls of!
88p   (tasted 2013/10)

2006 Selección de Ãnada, Pazo de Senorans
This 100% Albarino has a fine, oily, flowery nose with notes of dried peach, licorice, a lot of crushed rocks and a touch of petrol.
The taste is light, nice and fresh with notes of lemon peel, elderberries, slate and a touch of licorice. A high, refreshing acidity. Very nice.
86p   (tasted 2013/10)

2007 Contours Riesling, Pewsey Vale
A deep, complex nose with notes of tangerines, sweet/sour lemons, dried flowers, rubber and a whole petrol station. Very interesting. Refined. Really, really fine.
The taste is tight, fresh and upright with notes of lemon and lime cream, dried apricots, dried flowers and a elegant smoky note. A very fine acidity. Long and pure. Lovely! This is a bargain for 21 Euro.
91p   (tasted 2013/10)

2012 Rossj-Bass, Gaja
A big, flowery, open nose with notes of melted butter, candy, warm grass and wet rocks. A bit overblown on the nose. Smells like a Viognier, which isn´t high praise in my book...
The taste is better and more structured with sweet yellow fruit, some wood notes and a fine spicy character. Notes of summer flowers, lemon cream and crushed rocks. A long, warm finish. A fine taste but that nose doesn´t do it for me.
86p   (tasted 2013/10)

2011 Ridge Estate Chardonnay
I tasted this a few months ago when Paul Draper visited Stockholm. This bottle was almost identical, albeit a tad warmer in the fruit. But a fine wine yet again.
90p   (tasted 2013/10)

2010 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay
The Monte Bello Chardonnay oozes up from the glass with notes of cold butter, summer flowers, white peaches, lemon cream and a touch cap gun smoke. Deep, tight and elegant. This is good!
The taste is big and structured with a fine intensity and a long, refined finish. Notes of lemon cream, parsnips, butter fried nuts and summer flowers are noticeable. Even at 14,5% alcohol it doesn´t show any warmth, even when the temperature rises. Great wine!
93p   (tasted 2013/10)

2009 Barbaresco, Gaja
I tasted this one earlier this year. On this night it behaved in the same way - reserved, withdrawn and elusive. This will need 8+ years to reveal itself. But I think there can be interesting stuff here, well worth the wait.
87p   (tasted 2013/10)

2008 Sperss, Gaja
This on the other hand jumps out of the gates with gorgeous notes of red cherries, Christmas spices, rose petals, licorice and a whole mushroom forest. A fine, high nose. With air some dried strawberries emerge. Very, very elegant.
The taste is young, tight and intense with notes of red cherries, licorice, mushrooms and some truffle aromas. Built like a super model, this is a beauty! Some steady tannins in the finish. Give this 10 years and it will be flirting with perfection.
94p   (tasted 2013/10)

2010 Ridge Monte Bello
Another stunning Monte Bello! The 2010 wasn´t present at the above mentioned tasting, so it was great to have an opportunity to taste the new vintage that will be released here in December. And I will be buying!
The nose is ripe, rich and focused with notes of sweet black currants, graphite, dark chocolate, new leather and a touch of flower water - in a positive sense! Cherry truffels and dark coffe after a while. Gorgeous.
The taste is concentrated, tight and impressive with notes of black currants, black cherries, dark chocolate, minerals and a fine perfumed note. The finish goes on and on and on. Very complex. This will need 5+ years in the cellar. Great stuff!
94p   (tasted 2013/10)

2009 Catena Zapata Nicasia & Adrianna Malbec
I had a hard time to get something out of the two offerings from Catena Zapata. With some vigorous coaxing I can detect some blueberries, licorice and road dust. The taste is very young, very tight and potent. They were very much alike, but maybe time will tell the two cuvées apart?
87p   (tasted 2013/10)

2009 Nicolas Catena Zapata
The star wine - the Nicolas Catena Zapata - is another creature all together. Also very young, but the quality oozes out from the glass, with notes of blueberries, blackberries, dark fudge, cigarette ashes, leather and minerals. Very concentrated but very cool at the same time. Very, very fine.
The taste is immense and ripe with a lovely blueberry and blackberry fruit paired with notes of cigarette ashes, dark chocolate and minerals. Very, very young still. This has potential, but wait at least 6-8 years.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

2009 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline, Guigal
By all standards this should have been a stunner. But it wasn´t. I can´t call me an expert of young La Mouline´s, but I have had my share, and this isn´t how they have behaved in the past, even taking into consideration vintage variations. Maybe it should have been decanted the day before? :-) It slowly, slowly, slowly evolved during the evening, but it is hard as nails and doesn´t show much except some white pepper aromas, some lingonberries and some earthy notes. Judgement referred.
??   (tasted 2013/10)

2007 The Armagh, Jim Barry
I know that I usually like these kind of wines - when they have had 15+ years in the cellar. But in their youth? Maybe I´m too weak for these wines, but they are too much for me.
The nose explodes up from the glass with overly sweet blackberries, raspberry jam, toothpaste and mint galore. Very deep and concentrated but the sweetness is to high.
The taste is enormous with masses and masses of sweet blackberries, raspberries, eucalyptus, sweet oak and toothpaste. The finish is two minutes long. I know that there is quality here, I have tasted older vintages of The Armagh - the 1998 was excellent (and probably still is). Any volunteers who will buy it and surprise me in 15 years time? :-)
89p   (tasted 2013/10)

2007 Louis Roederer Brut Millésime
What better way to end a tasting than with some bottles of Champagne? First up is the 2007 Brut from Louis Roederer that shows young, fresh scents of grass, hazel nuts, red apples and dry fudge on the nose. Very good.
The taste is young and elegant with notes of sweet lemons, red apples, dry fudge and some grassy notes. A fine acidity. Should evolve well over the coming 3-5 years. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay.
89p   (tasted 2013/10)

2008 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé
The 2008 Rosé is a stunner! The nose is utterly charming with its notes of dried raspberries, wild strawberries, flowers, gravel and a touch of smoke. Deep and refined. Just lovely.
The taste is young but oooh so fresh and lively with notes of wild strawberries, raspberry cream, summer flowers and lots of minerals. This is some yummy stuff! This will go into the cellar, for drinking now and the upcoming 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

2006 Cristal
And some Cristal to close the evening? Yes, please! This is a youngster, but a beautiful one at that. The nose is cool, elegant and pure with notes of unripe yellow apples, elderberries, white currants, milk chocolate fudge and lots of minerals. Lots of potential in this one. Very, very fine.
The taste is young, tight and refined with notes of white currants, dried flowers, red apple peel, fudge and sweet minerals. The finish is long and balanced. This will need some time to unravel but I´m sure it will turn into a beauty in 5-7 years time.
93p   (tasted 2013/10)

More impression here (in Swedish).

Monday 28 October 2013

A Spanish Dinner

My friend Oscar invited a couple of the usual wine geeks to dinner a few days back. Since Oscar is of Spanish origin, guesses always tend to lead to that sunny land when the wines are poured double blind...

NV La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada, Equipo Navaros
A fine, elegant nose with notes of salted nuts, wet sand, dried flowers and the fatty scent from Pata Negra. Intense and very salivating.
The taste is pure, fresh and lively with a lovely salty taste and notes of nuts, wet rocks, dried flowers and dry grass. Long and fine. I drink Sherry to seldom!
89p   (tasted 2013/10)

With some yummy Pata Negra and other delicatessen we were served three glasses of bubbly.
2002 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club
An open, fine nose with notes of red apples, elderberries, dry caramel and some flowery scents. Elegant and pure. A very fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste feels younger and tighter than the nose with notes of lemon peel, elderberries and gravel. A very fine acidity. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2013/10)

2002 Reserva Particular Gran Reserva, Recaredo
A mature, broad nose with notes of dried flowers, dry nuts, wet earth and a touch of dog food. I think this has passed it best-before-date.
The taste is better but is a touch foursquare with notes of dried flowers, yellow apples and some soapy flavours. The acidity is high but the fruit isn´t really there to lend support.
76p   (tasted 2013/10)

2004 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva, Recaredo
This bubbly from Recaredo is much better - the nose is fresh and lively with notes of lily of the valley, sweet lemons, assorted nuts and gravel. Not that much depth but very nice.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of dried flowers, lemon peel, gravel and some smoke. A medium long finish. Good.
85p   (tasted 2013/10)

NV Cordon Negro Seco, Freixenet
Talk about a surprise! This bottle, that is produced in millions each year, have been stored in some really bad (for wine) enviroments over the last 12-14 years. And yet, it behaves really well. The nose is mature, ripe and interesting with notes of creamy lemons, yellow apples and a touch of old chocolate. Good.
The taste is rather thin but also quite fresh with notes of mature yellow apples, dusty earth, nuts and a touch of detergent. That´s obviously the trick - keep it in daylight and warm surroundings for 10+ years and you could actually enjoy it...
81p   (tasted 2013/10)

1985 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Paolo Scavino
A deep, smooth, mature nose with gorgeous notes of ceps, undergrowth, red currants, tobacco and old leather. A very fine warmth. Almost fully mature, this delivers a lot of pleasure.
The taste is round, mature and ripe with notes of red currants, lingonberry bushes, mushrooms, tobacco and rosehips. A long, satisfying finish. Warm and fine. The tannins is a tad dry in the end of the finish. A great bottle of mature Barolo (although I guessed something else...) but it was not in the league of the bottle tasted last year.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

1954 Viña Tondonia, R. Lopez de Heredia
The star of the evening, this 59 year old wine showed why we cellar wines and which complexity that can come out of many years beneath the cork. The nose is beautifully old fashioned, with lovely notes of fresh stables, dried strawberries, pipe tobacco, parsnip puree and some refined dill notes. Complex and utterly hedonistic.
The taste is velvety but with a firm backbone deep inside the taste. Stunning notes of dried strawberries, lingonberry cake, mushrooms, dill and old tobacco leaves. A very fine structure. The finish goes on for over a minute. Fresh as a daisy. A privilige to drink.
96p   (tasted 2013/10)

1989 Vina Pedrosa Gran Reserva, Bodegas Hnos. Pérez Pascuas
Oscar exposed us for a little prank - glass 3 and 5 was the same wine, out of a magnum. Looking at my notes in hindsight, they seem almost identical, but to be fair, not exactly identical - that´s blind tasting for you...
The nose is big, mature and ripe with notes of strawberries marinated in balsamic vinegar, autumn leaves, sugared coffee, dill and dark fudge. A big hearted nose and its just lovely. Perfect maturity.
The taste is more tight and seedy than the nose with lots of black cherries, dried strawberries, coffee powder and dark fudge. A very, long, warm finish. Drinking great on this night, out of both glasses...:-)
91p   (tasted 2013/10)

1990 Barolo Pajana, Domenico Clerico
A perennial favourite of mine, the first vintage of Pajana. This was the only wine were I didn´t think that we were in Spain. It had to many Barolo markers to be anything else, and for once I was right...
The nose is singing out of the glass with stunning notes of sweet red cherries, rosehips, ceps, Christmas spices, black olive tapenade and licorice. Deep and refined. This is slowly heading towards maturity, but still has lots to offer. Great!
The taste is all about sweet red cherries, red licorice, saddle leather, rosehips and lots and lots of ceps. It still has some hefty tannins, that show themselves in the minute long finish. The perfect match to the succulent deer main course.
96p   (tasted 2013/10)

2001 Viña El Pison, Artadi
A deep, meaty, intense nose with notes of black cherries, licorice, new leather, coffee and some balsamic notes. Elegant. Still young, this has potential. A very fresh, ripe fruit.
The taste is big, tight and concentrated with sweet cherry fruit and notes of licorice, sugared coffee, warm tiles and leather. Perky tannins. This could use 4-6 years in the cellar. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

1994 Reserva Especial, Pesquera
Pesquera does it again - a totally undrinkable mess. It smells of blood orange juice and adhesive and taste like mud that have been mixed with some orange juice.
I bought three bottle of the 94 Janus a long time ago - one was fine, the other two was just like this one. I don´t know what Pesquera did during the nineties, but it wasn´t good.
53p   (tasted 2013/10)

Saturday 26 October 2013

Preparing For Tonight

Tonight a few of us are going to open and drink these bottles.
Some years ago me and three friends shared a cellar. And on top of the monthly rent we put some additional money and bought bottles when we came across something we thought would be fun to taste along the line.
When these are gone after tonight, we still have some interesting bottles to share...:-)

But now I will get back to prepare the black pepper sauce for the main course. Will be back with a tasting post soon.
The vintages are 1980, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999 (not in the pic.)

Friday 25 October 2013

Drinking Tonight - 2004 Barolo Vigna Gattera, Fratello Revello

A couple of weeks ago I opened the 04 Vigna Giachini and liked it a lot. This evening it was time for one of the other wines in the Revello portfolio, the Vigna Gattera. I had it with some delicatessen - truffle salami, fenocchio, San Daniele ham and some aged Gruyere.

2004 Barolo Vigna Gattera, Fratello Revello
Even with a few hours in the decanter the Gattera behaves like an adolescent. It takes some swirling to get aromas of dark cherries, black tea, wood smoke, rosehips and tar to rise from the glass. Very, very young but there is potential here. Deep.
The taste is young, backwards and powerful with lots of ripe cherries and additional notes of rosehips, undergrowth, balsa wood and dried flowers. A very long, intense finish with a hefty dose of sweet tannins. This needs some serious time in the cellar, I would say 6-8 years before its time to open another bottle.
90p   (tasted 2013/10)

Tuesday 22 October 2013

This Is What A Dinner Should Be Like - Great White Burgundy, Great Bordeaux & More Stuff!

Håkan promised us some "nice" wines when we was invited to dinner. That was a understatement too say the least. With the company, wines and food - it was to be one of the best dinners this year.
Thanks Håkan!
All wines tasted double blind.

2009 Marsannay La Montagne, Olivier Guyot
This was served as a pre wine, while waiting for the food to get on the table! :-) The nose is open, warm and nice with notes of red plums, dried raspberries, earth and a lightly perfumed note. Very good.
The taste is light, slightly mature and friendly with notes of lingonberries, dried raspberries, dried herbs and some warm earth. A medium long finish with a fine acidity. Drinking well, and should be doing so for the next 5+ years.
86p   (tasted 2013/10)

2004 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes, Domaine Jacques Prieur
Aaaaah, as soon as the nose gets near the glass you could sense the aromas of a great white Burgundy. A deep, intense and spicy nose with notes of red lemon, caramel, lemon cream, butter fried root vegetables and flint. A lovely creaminess to the fruit. Some maturity. Just gorgeous.
The taste is tight, focused and lip smacking good with fruit, acidity and structure in great harmony. Lovely notes of lemon cream, white peaches, dark fudge and some smoky notes. A long, balanced finish. This has just entered its drinking phase and should keep on bringing enjoyment for 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2013/10)

2004 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, Domaine Leflaive
A deep, refined and a tad restrained nose with notes of cool lemon juice, dry fudge, mature green apples and lots of minerals. This isn´t as hedonistic as the Prieur but it has a great depth to it. And it feels younger as well.
The taste is gorgeously taut and focused with notes of butter flowers, lemon cream, butter biscuits and some nutty flavours. Lots of sweet minerals in the long finish. A very fine acidity. Great stuff. I would give this another 5 year in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

2000 Château Trotanoy
This beauty has started to show some signs of maturity. The nose is deep, velvety and luscious with notes of corinthians, black plums, leather and warm tiles. Ripe and really creamy on the nose. Great stuff.
The taste is tighter and firmer than the nose with notes of plums, red and black currants, autumn leaves and some tobacco notes. A good warmth in the long finish. A lovely mouthfeel. This has started to mature but has a long way to go. Really, really good.
93p   (tasted 2013/10)

2000 Château Hosanna
A deep, cool, laid back nose with splendid notes of lingonberries, blueberries, dried rosemary and a touch of dark chocolate. Very deep and concentrated. Still rather young. Did open up more and more during the evening. Impressive.
The taste is tight, intense and tough with lots of dark plums, nlueberries, balsa wood, earth and chocolate. A long, energetic finish with lots of finely grained tannins. Spreads like a peacock´s feather in the mouth. This is going to be even more delicious with 5+ years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2013/10)

2000 Château Troplong-Mondot
What a wine! The nose jumps out of the glass with glorious aromas of dark plums, christmas spices, expensive leather, Cohiba cigar and moist autumn leaves. Very refined. Oozes class and attention to details. Very deep and hedonistic. Stunning!
The taste is the proverbial "iron fist in a velvet glove" - heaps of dark, sweet plums, blueberries, spices, warm tiles, dark chocolate and moist earth. Very long, very complex and utterly beautiful. This is in one sense still an adolescent but one cannot avoid being charmed by its power and beauty. Will be even greater in 5-15 years. Remarkable!
96p   (tasted 2013/10)

2010 Syrah Vieilles Vignes Chamoson, Simon Maye
S, nervous about the number of wines being served, brought this bottle. A whole another creature, but a very yummy one! The nose is filled to the brim with black berries, violets, meat and a touch of mint. Very deep, Some flowery aromas evolved with air. Very, very fine.
The taste is young, tight and peppery with notes of black berries, blueberries, violets, dried flowers and meat stock. The finish is long and focused. Guesses about Cornas, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage went back and forth over the table. But no, its from Switzerland and it is delicious! More info here.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

2002 Shafer Hillside Select
This is a Parker 100p wine...Nice to drink one of those, they tend to get very expensive as soon as that three digit number has been handed out (I hate what he have done to 1990 Montrose for example...).
How was it then?
This inky monster has a deep, deep, deep nose with boatloads of sweet plums, sweet black currants, licorice, sweet thyme, raspberry chocolate truffles, resin and sweet new oak. It is very much...too much? I would almost say so. But...when you sit with it all night it also shows complexity, depth and a fine balance. It would be easy to dismiss it at first, if you don´t like these kind of powerhouses. But that would be a mistake. There is more to it than just sweet, over-the-top fruit.
The taste is just massive, sweet and big, big, big. But again, to begin with. Underneath and with air it becomes more balanced, more liniar and shows more backbone. The tannins does their job and cleans the mouth effectively in the long, long finish. As the evening goes by I´m getting more and more impressed with this creature. It needs some serious time in the cellar but I wouldn´t be surprised if this could turn out really, really impressive in 10+ years time. But the likelihood to taste more bottles in the future without winning the lottery are slim...
94p   (tasted 2013/10)

2004 Niederhauser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese, Dönnhoff
Too finish this great night of this half bottle was opened. The nose is elegant, cool and somewhat mature with notes of warm grass, ripe green pears, tangerines and lots and lots of minerals. Very, very good.
The taste is focused, elegant and a tad mature. It starts of semi sweet and goes all the way too its semi dry ending, with notes of pears, passion fruit, tangerines and lots of crushed rocks. A very fine acidity. Cool and fine.
90p   (tasted 2013/10)

Saturday 19 October 2013

Found in London

Hedonism wines in London...the Aladdin cave of wine, and while expensive, they have everything! And what do you say about 10 Leflaive Puligny Clavoillon, 02 Rosseau Chambertin or some SQN to taste from their machines? When will I get out of here...? :-)

Thursday 17 October 2013

Lost in London

London is always great - just visited Harrods wine department - ouch!! You must have a thick wallet and no sense of fair pricing...but nice to look. And then..

Wednesday 16 October 2013

2010 Te Koko, Cloudy Bay

It have been some years since I last tasted the Te Koko from Cloudy Bay, but on this night at was time again. And with some succulent crab meat it vaporized in the glass!

2010 Te Koko, Cloudy Bay
This Sauvignon Blanc gets a little oak treatment and you can sense it on the nose. Not too much - but then again - there can never be too much oak! :-) Other scents are the usual suspects - gooseberries, elderberries, grass, wet rocks and a hint of licorice. Very good.
The taste is young, fresh and salivating with notes of white currants, gooseberries, grass and the same touch of licorice as on the nose. A good, refreshing acidity. This is drinking really fine but I don´t get that spine-tingling feeling that I remember from some previous vintages.
88p   (tasted 2013/10)