Tuesday 30 May 2017

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - The Beginning & The End

13 wine grower visits. 134 wines tasted and drunk. 81 Baroli. Lots of Arneis, Dolcetto, Barbera. Carne Cruda, Tajarin, Plin, Coniglio, Pannacotta...

That is the result of The Barolo Boys last visit to the sacred land of Piedmont. Four full days and two, almost, half days. This report will start with the beginning and the end.

I land in Milano on Wednesday afternoon and getting picked up by one of the Barolo Boys. Too late in the day for a winery visit but why not make a visit to one of the best restaurants in Langhe?

Trattoria La Coccinella is already a favourite of ours and we visited it twice on this journey. They have all the traditional dishes that makes Piedmont great but they also have impressing fish dishes, even a whole tasting menu dedicated to fish and seafood. I usually pick and choose from the two menus.
We started of with the go-to white grape of Langhe, Arneis. They were out of Bruno Giacosa´s version (our favourite!) so we ordered a bottle of
2016 Blangè Arneis, Ceretto
A fine, open, spicy nose with notes of fresh flowers, melon and gravel. Very nice.
The taste is dry and fine with notes of passionfruit, almond paste and minerals. A fine acidity. Medium long and good.
87p   (tasted 2017/05)

I drank it to raw pieces of the freshest fish imaginable.
But the Ceretto was not enough for us so we ordered in another bottle of Arneis, the
2016 Bricco delle Ciliegie Arneis, Giovanni Almondo 
A different creature compared to the Ceretto, much stonier and gravelly with notes of green apples, grass and minerals. Racy and fine.
The taste is dry and tight with a refreshing acidity and notes of apples, dried peach and lots of minerals. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)

By the way, 2016 seems to be a great vintage for the whites of Langhe, we tastes a bunch of different grapes from different producers and all them were crisp, pure and juicy. Notes to follow.

After the fresh starter I opted for plin di coniglio as primi and then a succulent veal dish - so good that I had it on our second visit!
By this time I had been in Langhe for a couple of hours hours and I needed a Nebbiolo! After browsing through the wine list (which is solid and very good) we agreed upon a bottle of
2007 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Paolo Scavino
Oooh boy, this is good! A wonderful open, a bit matured and rich nose with notes of dark cherries, licorice, sunwarm rocks and worn leather. A fine depth. This is really fine.
The taste is still rather tight but with some time in the glass it opens up with beautiful fruit, a very fine warmth and still some sappy tannins. Violets, cherries, rosehips en masse! Drinking great but has structure for further aging.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

Jumping five days ahead - its Monday morning and we only have time for one winery visit and a early lunch before going to the airport. 9.30 sharp we rang the doorbell at the Sandrone estate. We were shown the new, extended cellar before we headed to the tasting room.

2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Valmaggiore
The Valmaggiore is always a favourite of mine. The 15 shows cool, ripe cherries, autumn leaves, tobacco and warm gravel on the nose. A fine depth. Very nice.
The taste is juicy and fresh with notes of red and black cherries, licorice, undergrowth and a bit of leather. Silky tannins. Could be drunk now with pleasure but wait 3-5 years for more complexity.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Le Vigne
A handsome, polished nose with notes of sour/sweet cherries, licorice, forest floor and a hint of wood. A deep, perfumed nose. Very, very fine.
The taste is young, tight and seedy with notes of dried cherries, violets, mushrooms and roses. A long, spicy finish. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Aleste
The Cannubi Boschis with a new name, Luciano´s dedication to his grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. The nose is very deep, concentrated and a tad withdrawn with fine notes of ripe red cherries, ceps, moist earth, raspberry licorice and sweet minerals. This is truly fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of tobacco, red and black cherries, dried strawberries and undergrowth. A long, long finish with perky tannins. This will need at least 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

After this, our last visit, we headed up towards Milano but stayed on the way for lunch. A new place for me - Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon. Old style, Piedmontes cooking with no fuss and great, deep flavours. And a great wine list!

I had my favourite starter, the Carne Crudo and this was the best one of the whole trip. Pure veal meat on the plate and then olive oil, salt and pepper, that you decide how much you want. The meat melts on the tongue. For main dish (no primi this time, we had to catch a plane...) - Coniglio! The juicy meat fell from the bone when I touched it - a great dish.

To go along we thought it would be suitable to end our trip with one more bottle from Sandrone, which we just left.

2010 Barolo Le Vigne, Sandrone
What a way to end this trip! The nose of this seven year old Le Vigne is a dream, with notes of crushed cherries, dark roses, forest floor, cigarr smoke and Oriental spices. A touch of maturity. Very deep. This is truly fine.
The nose is tight and balanced with notes of dried raspberries, tobacco, ceps and licorice. The finish goes on for over a minute and ends with a fine grip, yet it invites you to take sip after sip. This is lip smacking good. Great wine!
96p   (tasted 2017/05)

Then we were of to the airport. We will be back soon!

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - October 2016:
Part One
Part Two
Part Three
Part Four

NOT A 2013 California Cabernet

I ordered the 2013 Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon from the monopoly but instead the 2012 came. Ah, well, I was thirsty and opened it anyway. A new order is made and now I am promised that the 2013 will come!

2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Ramey  (Napa Valley)
A big, open, sweet nose with notes of ripe black currants, graphite, chewing tobacco, grilled meat and dusty earth. Very, very good. Sweet, fruit. Very likeable in a in-your-face kind of way.
The taste is large scaled, ripe and velvety with masses of juicy black currants, blueberries and raspberries alongside notes of charcoal, leather and dark chocolate. A long finish with finely polished tannins. This I like!
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

Wednesday 24 May 2017

2013 California Cabernet - Part Five

I keep popping these 2013 California Cabernet´s, and I am enjoying it!

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, Louis M. Martini  (Alexander Valley)
The Napa Valley version was good but the Alexander Valley - just like Decanter said - is way better! The nose is large scaled, open and just great with notes of ripe black currants, dark chocolate, mocha, graphite and sweet violets. A deep and concentrated nose. Very fine.
The taste is broad, ripe yet dense and focused with notes of ripe black currants, blueberries, graphite and hot gravel. Very long, very structured and very, very good. One for the cellar. Stunning juice.
93p   (tasted 2017/04)

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mondavi  (Napa Valley)
A big, all-over-the-place kind of nose with notes of ripe black cherries, diesel oil, bakelite, strong smoke and graphite. A tad to warm. Very ripe.
The taste is outgoing and fruity with notes of ripe black cherries, dark liquorice, cigar smoke and ink. Very long, very warm and very much. May settle down with time.
86p   (tasted 2017/04)

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley, Beringer
A dark, fruity, open nose with notes of ripe red and black currants, dark chocolate, expensive leather and graphite. Very polished, very deep and very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and dense with notes of ripe black currants, blueberries, sugared coffee and tobacco. A very long finish with sturdy tannins. This will be a keeper. Again, one for the cellar. A real bargain at 24 Euro.
92p   (tasted 2017/04)

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Vintern´s Reserve, Kendall-Jackson
The nose is big and open with notes of blackberries, black currants, dark liquorice, asphalt and some vanilla pods in the background. Very good in a extrovert kind of way.
The taste is big and steady with more structure than on the nose, with notes of ripe black currants, blueberries, red beet juice and gravel. Lots of tannins in the long, dry finish. Could turn out fine with 4-6 years in the cellar. For 25 Euro/bottle I would definitely gamble on it.
89p   (tasted 2017/05)

Monday 22 May 2017

1999 Barbera - A Beauty & A Tired Beast

With some home made pizza I opened these two bottles - same vintage, same grape, but miles apart. Both bottles looked fine, good levels and corks, but alas...

1999 Barbera d´Asti La Solista, Romano Dogliotti
Aah, something looked wrong when I poured from the bottle, a muddy, brown liquid. It smells of overripe, overcooked cherries with mud, undergrowth and old, dry chocolate. Dried up sweetness, very dry and a tad alcoholic in the end. Two tastes, that´s all, the rest goes down the drain.
52p   (tasted 2017/05)

1999 Barbera d´Alba, Domenico Clerico
A deep, concentrated nose with a fine maturity and notes of ripe black cherries, dried strawberries, tobacco, violets and some smoke. Very, very good. A very fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is rich and warm with notes of sweet/sour cherries, warm tiles, asphalt and old leather. A long, warm, creamy finish. Really good. Fully mature but bottles like this is no hurry to drink.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)

Saturday 20 May 2017

1955, 1970, 1982, 1998 Baroli

All alone at home, no family, no friends around. What to do?

Play metal on high volume and open some Barolo of course! One? Heck no, four!

1955 Barolo, Francesco Rinaldi
Oh dear. When pouring the wine from the bottle it is a pale orange colour. This can´t be good. And it isn´t. The nose has some notes of old, wrinkled up yellow fruit, old Christmas spices and glue.
The taste is just hidious with detergent, dry soap and VA. This is a Ghost.
52p   (tasted 2017/05)

1970 Barolo, Giovanni Manzone
Moving up 15 years. The nose is medium deep, mature and a tad loose around th edges, with notes of old leather, wet forest floor, old coffee grounds and dried mushrooms. The fruit has vanished.
The taste is better and more lively with notes of dried raspberries, warm gravel, dried mushrooms and tobacco leaves. A medium long, warm finish. Good. Dark Tranquillity spiced up the wine.
76p   (tasted 2017/05)

1982 Barolo Brunate, Ceretto
I drank this Brunate two years ago and that bottle was better. The nose has a touch of VA/band aid alongside notes of sour/sweet red cherries, dry liquorice and dried flowers.
The taste is much better with crisp cherry fruit, forest floor, rosehips and tobacco. A fine perfumed notes. Long, tight and fine. Too bad that the nose isn´t really ok. The End Is Near...
85p   (tasted 2017/05)

1998 Barolo, Angelo Boffa
Initially the nose is big, broad and meaty but with air it plays those aromas down and becomes lighter with notes of ripe cherries, asphalt, strawberries and fresh mushrooms. Very good.
The taste is tight, warm and structured with notes of black cherries, raspberry liquorice, rosehips and mushrooms. A lot of rugged tannins in the end of the finish. Needs 6+ years. Too young but not a Violation!
88p   (tasted 2017/05)

Not bad wines per se, but I had higher hopes when I opened them. But as Lemmy used to sing - You win some, lose some, it´s all the same to me
A nice workout though before going to Piedmont in four days time...

Thursday 18 May 2017

1979 Château Clos des Jacobins

1979 Château Clos des Jacobins
In those days this was an almost 50/50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc with some Cabernet Sauvignon tossed in.
38 years later, the nose is mature, round and just lovely with notes of ripe plums, pipe tobacco, corinthians, sugared coffee and old lead pencil shavings. Some moist animal scents rises from the glass, adding to the complexity.
The taste is mature with a dry velvety character and notes of dried plums, red currants, gravel and cigarette ashes. More mature on the palate than on the nose. Drinking fine though, especially with some meat on the plate. From time to time a mature Bordeaux is something special.
89p   (tasted 2017/05)

Tuesday 16 May 2017

Red Room Hedonism - Riesling, Bordeaux & Brunello

It was time yet again for a get together at MFW and the Red Room. Five bottles, two dishes and three tasters made up a fantastic evening.

2004 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
A wonderful, laid back, refined nose with notes of spices, passionfruit, lime and dried up vanilla ice cream. Irresistible!
The taste is gulpable yet distinct with notes of spiced up lemons, birch sap, yellow plums and a hint of honey. A long finish that ends with a of dry twist. Drinking perfect now but could go on 7+ years.
93p   (tasted 2017/05)

1982 Château Mauvinon
This Saint-Emilion was bought for the pricey sum of 20 Euro a couple of months ago... It shows of a soft, mature nose with fine notes of dried plums, autumn leaves, dry cigar and some interesting scents of moist dog fur. Kept well in the glass over the evening. Not a great wine but a very rewarding one.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of dried red currants, tobacco, old leather and dusty earth. A medium long finish with a dried up sweetness. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2017/05)

1982 Château Gruaud Larose
I bought a bunch of bottles from the state monopoly in 1993, paying 18 Euro/bottle. This is one of the last ones, they have served me great over the years. But Gruad-Larose can from time to time be rather funky with a bretty touch. And this was such a bottle. Every other time I sniffed it it was bretty and the next time it was a pure, deep, great wine that still is youngish. So this note is of the every other time it was great!
The nose is very deep and concentrated with notes of ripe black currants, expensive leather, warm tiles, cigar smoke and some stables in a distance. Layers upon layers of the finest black currants. Impressive. And still young.
The taste is intense and tight with notes of red and black currants, cigar ashes, scorched earth, sugared coffee and graphite. A firm backbone and still juicy tannins in the long, long finish. I´ll guess it needs another 10+ years before becoming fully mature. Can I wait that long with my remaining bottles...?
94p   (tasted 2017/05)

1995 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Manachiara, Silvio Nardi
Aaaaah, what a nose! Perfectly mature with a velvety cherry fruit and gorgeous notes of fresh rosemary, warm tiles, Christmas spices, leather and sweet violets. A perfect mature sweetness to the fruit. Very, very deep. Just lovely.
The taste is lush, rich and structured with notes of sour/sweet black cherries, dried rosemary, liquorice, Tuscan gravel and warm herbs. The finish goes of for minutes and is firm and velvety at the same time. On top of its game. Really, really fine.
This is the first vintage of the single vineyard Manachiara from Silvio Nardi.
96p   (tasted 2017/05)

2010 Brunello di Montalcino, Le Ragnaie
This youngster sports a high, seedy, promising nose with notes of ripe red cherries, violets, hard cherry candy and gravel. A very high and airy intensity. Lots of concentration waiting to burst into maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and seedy with notes of sweet Maraschino cherries, ripe flowers, violets, spices and new leather. A long, earthy finish with finely polished tannins. This has potential for greatness, just wait 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2017/05)

More notes here (in Swedish and with great pics)

Sunday 14 May 2017

A Greek Rosé - 2014 Rosé Privé, Glinavos

Finally the sun starts to shine over Sweden and we begin to thaw ever so slightly. And the first rosé to be poured is this one. The blend is 50% each of Vlahiko and Syrah.

2014 Rosé Privé, Glinavos
A light, open nose with, at first, some chicken farm notes that aired away, and gave way to pomengranate, lingonberries, blood oranges and some rubber scents. Good.
The taste is dry and fresh with notes of dried raspberries, lingonberry juice, chrushed rocks and a hint of the same rubber as on the nose. A medium long, dry finish. Went well with a chicken salad. A good wine, but will I buy it again? Nope.
85p   (tasted 2017/05)

Friday 12 May 2017

2011 Tokaji Furmint, Királyudvar

As I said a couple of months ago, I drink way too little Furmint. But I am working on it!

2011 Tokaji Furmint, Királyudvar
A slim, withdrawn nose with notes of lemon, ginger, steel, birch sap and lots of crushed rocks. Very lively and very good. Some chlorophyll aromas. Refined. High and fine.
The taste is young, tight and racy with notes of lime peel, ginger, green apples and lots of minerals. A high, intense acidity. Long and fine. Really fine, I would like to know what some age could turn it into.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)

Thursday 11 May 2017

Then & Now - 1964 & 2012 Carema, Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo Di Carema

I had gotten hold of a 1964 Carema from the Produttori which started in 1960 by 10 winegrowers (today they are 71 members who contributes their grapes). More info here.
And the state monopoly had the 2012. Well, a Then & Now tasting had to be done.
But the result...

1964 Carema, Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo Di Carema
From The Greatest Vintage Ever, this bottle, although a decent level and a good cork, was dead as a dodo.
50p   (tasted 2017/05)

2012 Carema, Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo Di Carema
The 2012 is very much more alive, compared to its 48 year older sibling, but it is not a charmer. The nose is laid back and anemic with febble notes of lingonberries, dry undergrowth, balsa wood and a hint of band aid.
The taste is dry, tight and, again, anemic, with notes of lingonberries, rhubarb, dusty earth and dried rosehips. A medium long, acidic finish. Went ok with a grilled porkchop but on its own it is charmless and simplistic.
79p   (tasted 2017/05)

That was not a great showing of the Produttori wines... I has also bought a 2011 Riserva and thought, why not?

2011 Carema Riserva, Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo Di Carema
Oooh boy, this is a whole other ballgame! The nose opens a tad funky but just after one hour in the glass it opens up with deep, fine aromas of ripe red cherries, undergrowth, warm rocks, fir and some smoke in a distance. With air dried strawberries makes their way up from the glass. This is goood!
The taste is young, tight and seedy with notes of cherry pips, cigarette ashes, fir, gravel and dried flowers. A long, structured finish with a fine backbone. This is going to turn out great with 6+ more years in the cellar.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)

Tuesday 9 May 2017

2007 Pintas, Wine & Soul

Maybe it was not a root day. Or maybe I was in the mood (but I am always in the mood for wine!). Or maybe this was a really good bottle.

A couple of weeks ago, I tasted six unimpressive portugese bottles, and one of them was the 2005 Pintas.
This 2007 was a recent kind gift and tonight, with some juicy burgers, I opted to open it.

2007 Pintas, Wine & Soul
Pintas is a a 77 years old vineyard with more than 30 different portuguese grape varieties. Only 5.500 bottles is made each year.
The 2007 displays a deep, outgoing, rich nose with notes of ripe black currants, blackberries and some lingonberries tossed in for complexity. There are additional notes of mocha, ripe flowers, asphalt and moist earth. It reminds me of a modern style Bordeaux. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, structured and warm with notes of blackberries, blueberry jam, graphite, dry liquorice and bakelite. Very long, rich and a touch alcoholic at the end. Ripe, fine fruit. Went perfectly with the burgers. Way, way better than the 05.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)

Saturday 6 May 2017

Barolo Boys Plan The Upcoming Tour To Nebbiolo Land

It is time again. To go to the land of tartufi, carne cruda, tajarin, risotto, coniglio, brasato and of course - Barolo!
The Barolo Boys will land on the 24th of May and for 5 days we will taste, drink and occasionally spit the greatest wines on this Earth - Barolo!

But such a daunting task has to be planned! So we met up a few days ago and drank these wines. I think we got some planning done as well...
M poured. All wines tasted double blind.

2012 Cuvée Bois, Les Crétes
This Italian Chardonnay got us fooled, first of to California, then Burgundy, then....ah, well. The nose is cool and mineral laden with notes of melon, yellow plums, smoke and hand cream. Very, very fine. Deep and refined.
The taste is young and tight with notes of lemon cream, white flowers, blood oranges and some butter cookies. A long, finely tuned finish with a great acidity. Really fine
93p   (tasted 2017/05)

2015 Nierstein Hipping Riesling Kabinett, Keller
A energetic, young, upfront nose with notes of white peach, ripe pears, fresh herbs and lots and lots of minerals. High and pure. A touch of saltiness. Salivating. Very, very fine.
The taste is young, cool with a hint of sparkle and notes of elderberries, gray pears, ginger and lemon peel. Chrushed slate to go around. It has a shine to it. You just want to take another sip and another and...
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

2005 Château L´Arrosée
A big, steady nose with a hint of maturity and notes of ripe black plums, sun warm leather, violets and rich earth. Deep and fine. This is really good.
The taste is tight and concentrated and feels younger than on the nose. Fine notes of chocolate covered cherries, leather, mocha and a touch of bonfire smoke. A long, classy finish. Finely polished tannins. Should get 5+ years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2017/05)

2004 Masseto
A warm, concentrated, open nose with stunningly gorgeous fruit in the shape of ripe red and black cherries, forest raspberries and some bluberries tossed in. Additionally notes of liquorice, charcoal, sugared coffee and mint. Very, very deep. Just stunning!
The taste is rich, tight and focused with notes of sour/sweet cherries, plums, violets, rosemary and dark chocolate. The finish goes on for minutes. Some still firm tannins. Will go being great for another 10+ years.
96p   (tasted 2017/05)

1996 Pahlmeyer Merlot
Tasted seven months ago and it is even better on this evening! Boatloads of ripe plums, pipe tobacco, undergrowth, worn leather and warm tiles. I don´t know if its fully mature but it is not far from. Very, very deep and totally yummy! Some scorched earth reveals itself with air.
The taste is deep, steady and with that iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove kind of feeling. Lots of ripe black plums, tobacco, asphalt and mocha. A long, complex finish. Will go on for 5+ years but this is prime time drinking right now.
97p   (tasted 2017/05)

2002 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, Schaefer
Fuder 10. The nose is cool and a bit shy with notes of passiofruit, lemons, diesel and heather honey. Opens up nicely in the glass. Very, very good.
The taste is balanced and fine with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, menthol and dried up honey. Starts of semi dry but ends completely dry. A fine acidity. Starting to mature but have years to go.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)

1988 Château d´Yquem
From a half bottle. The nose is big, deep and multi layered with notes of (over) ripe peaches, linoleum, ripe red apples, tangerines and a hint of detergents. Very complex and fine.
The taste is concentrated and looong with notes of dried apricots, hay, tangerines and hay. Even a hint of milk chocolate. This is really fine. Very long. From this half bottle it is starting to mature.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

Planning Dinner From October 2016

Friday 5 May 2017

Drinking Tonight - 2009 Chambolle-Musigny, Dujac Fils & Pére

2009 Chambolle-Musigny, Dujac Fils & Pére
In 2000 Jeremy and Jacques of Domaine Dujac launched a negociant business that makes a Gevrey-Chambertin, a Morey Saint-Denis and in this case, a Chambolle-Musigny. They have established partnership with growers in these areas - no names mentioned! - and they make these wine with the same care and attention that of the Domaine Dujac bottlings.

The nose is really fine with a combination of a sturdy backbone and sweet, ripe, hedonistic Pinot fruit, in the shape of ripe red cherries, sunwarm rocks, violets and forest floor. Deep and refined. This I like. Still youngish. Lovely.
The taste is velvety yet firm with notes of ripe red currants, Asian spices, dried raspberries, violets amd a hint of tobacco. A long finish with a great acidity. A very fine mouthfeel. Gulpable but with stuffing for further greatness. This is a serious wine indeed.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

Thursday 4 May 2017

Some Nebbiolo´s Of Late

2001 Barbaresco, Rafaele Minervini
I have never tasted anything from this wine grower. The nose is still on the young side of things with notes of dried strawberries, mushrooms, spices and rosehips. Warm tobacco after a while. High and pure. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and tight with notes of dried raspberries, red currants, earth, violets and tar. A long, structured finish with lots to offer. This is very, very good, and could still be cellared for 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

1989 Barbaresco, Emilio Grasso
A mature, sturdy nose with notes of dried cherries, undergrowth. rose petals and asphalt. A tad one dimensional. A fine warmth. Good.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of red currants, dried strawberries, forest floor and violets. More alive on the palate. Still some unresolved tannins in the end of the finish.
85p   (tasted 2017/03)

2013 Langhe Nebbiolo, Moccagatta
A young, cool nose with notes of ripening red cherries, liquorice, bakelite and rosehips. The fruit turns into more raspberries with air. Some flowery aromas. Very, very good.
The taste is young and seedy with notes of hard cherry candy, gravel, rose petals and asphalt. A long, stern, promising finish. Needs some years in the cellar.
88p   (tasted 2017/03)

1991 Barolo La Luna E I Faló, Terre da Vino
A dusty, mature nose with notes of moist autumn leaves, dried rowan-berries, old chocolate wafers and mushrooms. A bit hollow in the middle.
The taste is fresher with notes of dried cherries, dusty earth, dry liquorice and forest floor. A medium long finish. Nice enough on the palate.
82p   (tasted 2017/04)

1983 Barolo, Santero
A mature, broad nose with notes of mushrooms, dried red fruits, meat stock and forest floor. A hint of dog fur. Round and open. Good.
The taste is dry and a tad foursquare with notes of dried red currants, earth, violets and mushrooms. The nose is livelier than the palate.
83p   (tasted 2017/04)

1983 Barolo, M. Mascarello
One of all those Mascarello´s! This has a dry, hollow nose with notes of cranberries, band aid, ashes and moist undergrowth. Has gone to meet its maker, I´m afraid.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of gravel, dried mushrooms and lots of ash, like licking on a ashtray...  Some drying out tannins at the end.
70p   (tasted 2017/04)

1993 Gattinara, Giuseppe Bianchi
A cool, mature nose with notes of rosehips, dried strawberries, herbs and asphalt. A fine softness. Very good.
The taste is firmer and more structured with notes of red cherries, violets, undergrowth and dried mushrooms. Old fashioned and fine. Long. A fine maturity.
88p   (tasted 2017/05)