Monday 26 December 2022

2000 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso


2000 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso
A large scaled, warm, a bit all-over-the-place kind of nose with notes of cooked cherries, fir wood, dusty earth and old tobacco. Not really to my liking, a bit ragged.
The taste is seedy and broad with notes of dried up cherry jam, hot earth, dry licorice and fried mushrooms. Long. Some warmth. Better on the palate than on the nose. Drink up.
86p   (tasted 2022/12)

Friday 23 December 2022

Two Bottles Of Bubbly

2013 Extra Noir, Louis Brochet
From an for me unknown producer. The Pinot Noir, only 993 bottles made, offers up a fresh, stony nose with notes of red apples, chocolate biscuits, fir wood and ripe flowers. Spicy and fine.
The taste is broad yet elegant with a fine acidity , lots of red apples and a long, dry finish. Very, very good. 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2022/12)


2014 Extra Blanc, Louis Brochet
The Blanc de Blancs is for me the better wine, with a cool, spicy nose with notes of chalk, lemon peel, wet cement and honeysuckle. Very fine.
The taste is fresh like a mountain river with fine notes of lemon cream, white flowers, chalk and chrushed rocks. Long and fine. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/12)



Thursday 22 December 2022

Six Bottles Of Syrah


2001 Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Jamet
A mature, round nose with notes of violets, dried black berries, forest floor and sugared coffee. A fine depth.
The taste is mature and peppery with notes of autumn leaves, dried blueberries, violets and leather. I would say fully mature but will keep for another 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/12)



1999 Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée, Chapoutier
Another Chapoutier that doesn´t impress me (its a long list by now...). The nose is mature and a tad foursquare with notes of vanilla cooked black currants and blackberries. Also some forest floor aromas.
The taste is soft and mature with dried black fruit, some iron and violet notes but lacks concentration and focus.
86p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Syrah, Denis Mercier
Spicy and refined, this shows of more red than black fruits on the nose alongside notes of ink, chrushed rocks and flowers. Very fine.
The taste is elegant and nicely structured with red and black fruits, silky tannins and a peppery finish. A fine warmth. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/12)



2009 Warner Vineyard Shiraz, Giaconda
Hands down the winner when we voted for the best wine (all tasted double blind). The nose is deep, spicy and energetic with notes of tobacco, iron, dark flowers and buckets of ripe blackberries. Very, very fine.
The taste is large scaled but very refined with brilliant fruit, taut tannins and a lovely balance. Spices, peppers, blood and forest floor. Great wine. 6+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/12)

2005 Syrah, Boekenhoutskloof
A deep, inky nose with notes of ripe blackberries, bakelite and scorched earth. Very, very good in a upfront way.
The taste is young and forward with notes of ripe blackberries, chrushed rocks, iron and sweet violets. Long and intense. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/12)


2012 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Syrah, Ramey
A deep, juicy nose with notes of violets, blackberries, bacon and hot earth. Forward and very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with luscious black fruit, silky tannins and a long, long finish. Very young and very fine, 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)

Saturday 17 December 2022

Birthday Bottles From The Greatest Vintage Ever...


...which of course is 1964. These were some bottles that I opened to accompany a recent family dinner. 
Now only 62 bottles of 1964 in the cellar (panic!)

2007 La Grande Cuvée, Jeeper
No notes but from memory I would say that this is even more tasty than the 2005 - Barolista: Tasting Dinner With Vintages Ending With A "5" or the 2008 - Barolista: A BYOB Barbeque Evening
93p   (tasted 2022/11)

The bottle to the right not rated...

1964 Saint-Aubin, Moillard-Grivot
A rich. mature nose with notes of orange peel, wet earth, dried apricots without the sweetness, hint of coconut and rubber. Interesting and still very much alive.
The taste is dry and salty with notes of dried orange peel, herbs. nuts and dry minerals. Reminds me of an old Fino. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2022/11)

1964 Château Yon-La-Tour-Figeac
Opens a bit grumpy but with air it evolves into a fine, mature St Emilion, with notes of plums, old leather, fresh stables and autumn leaves. A fine dried up warmth.
The taste is a tad more linear than the nose but it has a fine maturity, dried fruit and medium long, dry finish. Very good with the Coeur de filet Provencale.
87p   (tasted 2022/11)


1964 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, ? Bourlioux
Almost black in colour. A big, burly nose - something added here? - with notes of fir wood, cooked blackberries, asphalt and bonfire.
The taste is big and steady with lots of black fruit and notes of bonfire smoke, scorched earth and asphalt. Feel a bit "made" but still delievers a fair amount of pleasure.
87p   (tasted 2022/11)

1964 Rioja Gran Reserva, Gomez Cruzado
Not completely DOA but not far from it.
60p   (tasted 2022/11)

1964 Mercurey, Frères Levert
From a family with a long history, see the back label. The nose is high and handsome with notes of root vegetables, dried raspberries, forest floor and a hint of balsamic vinegar. Very, very good.
The taste is round and mature with notes of dried raspberries, autumn leaves, herbs and earth. A fine acidity. Holding up great in the glass.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)



1964 Barolo, Luigi Alessandria
On the label it says "Poderi in La Morra e Serralunga d´Alba", so this probably is a blend from these two areas. The nose is deep and fine with notes of dried cherries, red tea, dried flowers and a whole mushroom forest. Very fine.
The taste is dense and fine with notes of dried cherries, asphalt, dried flowers and rosehip. A long, dry finish. No hurry to drink any remaining bottles.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)

Friday 16 December 2022

Some Sultry Spaniards

The Whites
2020 Cepas Viejas, Guimaro
A smoky, oily nose with notes of burnt grass, flint, Christmas spices and grilles lemon. Very, very good.
The taste is large scaled and spicy with lots of ripe lemons and chrushed rocks. A tad heavy in the finish. 
88p   (tasted 2022/11)


2019 Roda I Blanco, Bodegas Roda
First vintage of the Blanco from Roda and its a stunner. The nose is deep and intense with notes of oranges, chalk, smoke and a salty touch. Lovely fruit.
The taste is young and tight with spicy lemon fruit, a cleansing acidity and a fine length. Great stucture for aging. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 Sketch, Raúl Pérez
A young, stony nose with notes of grey pears, lemon licorice, wet cement and some grassy notes. A fine complexity.
The taste is fresh and racy with notes of dried apricots, grapefruit juice, minerals and dried grass. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)


2017 Commando G El Tamboril, Sierra de Gredos
A cool, elegant nose with notes of grape, birch leaves, smoke and lots of minerals. A bit laid back.
The taste is pure and seedy with notes of grass, minerals, gravel and grape. A low key intensity. Very, very good. Only 395 bottles made...
88p   (tasted 2022/11)

Intermezzo
NV No 1 La Bota de Amontillado "Navazos"
A unicorn of a bottle, the first in the Equipo Navazos series. The nose is bottomless deep with hauntingly beautiful notes of dry caramel, fried nuts, detergent, dried orange peel, sun warm rocks and salt water. Very complex and fine.
The taste is pure, racy and concentrated with an extraordinary structure, balance and intensity. The finish is counted in minutes. The acidity is of the charts. A truly great wine.
98p   (tasted 2022/11)



The Reds
2019 Bernabelena Garnacha de Viña Bonita, San Martín de Valdeiglesias
A cool, laid back nose with notes of rowan berries, dry licorice, earth and some spices. Light in style but very flirtatious.
The taste is high and focused with notes of dried raspberries, lingonberries, spices and earth, Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)


2019 Las Iruelas El Tiemblo, Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi
This bottle didn´t seem ok, so judgement referred.
No rating   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 Finca Pombiras, Guimaro
A warm, floral nose with notes of black cherries, asphalt, spices and violets. Very, very good.
The taste is concentrated and fine with notes of cherries, tapenade, hot earth and dark flowers. Long and fine.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)


2018 El Pecado, Raul Perez
A deep, finely structured nose with notes of leather, ripe cherries, rosemary and mocha. Very fine.
The taste is taut and fine with notes of salmiak, fries herbs, earth and violets. Long, cool and very fine.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 Tabuerniga, Telmo Rodríguez
A deep, somewhat meaty nose with notes of plums, violets and asphalt. Rich and very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with lots of black fruit, broad tannins and a long, warm finish. A fine touch of rosemary in the end. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)


2019 Peña Cabalcera, Bodega Marañones
A very deep, lovely nose with notes of forest floor, rubber, violets and a mix of black fruits. Very fine.
The taste is compact yet light on its feet with stunning fruit and notes of asphalt, forest floor and violets en masse. 4+ years. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)

2001 Vall Llach
A very deep, plum filled nose with additional notes of dark flowers, wet asphalt, meat and some balsamic notes. Very fine.
The taste is multi layered and pure with notes of tapenade, cigarr smoke, asphalt and ripe plums. Very long and intense. Still on the young side of things. 
94p   (tasted 2022/11)



2018 La Condenada, Artuke
A deep, perfumed nose with gorgeous notes of forest floor, balsamico cooked strawberries, fresh stables and smoke. Just lovely.
The taste is all about backbone, luscious fruit, balance and a finish that doesn´t quit. This is great stuff. 5+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 La Beatas, Telmo Rodríguez
The -19 La Beatas is not at the same level as the -18 - Barolista: Great Wines From Telmo Rodríguez, but its still a tasty wine. The nose is cool and vegetal, in a Cab Franc kind of way, with additional notes of red and black currants, fir smoke and hint of tobacco.
The taste is young and tight with a stern structure and notes of red and black currants, cigarette smoke and warm grass. Needs a couple of years in the cellar to flesh out.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)


A Stunning Sherry Flight
NV Amontillado Bota Unica 1/2, S. Roberto, Barbadillo
M pouring three Sherries? We didn´t see that coming... 
The nose is a dream with a breathtaking intensity and bottomless notes of nuts, orange peel, smoke, rubber, iodine and chrushed rocks. Just stunning.
The taste is counted in minutes with gorgeous notes of dried ginger, nuts, orange peel and salt water. Fabolous. Will go on forever.
97p   (tasted 2022/11)



NV Amontillado Bota Unica 2/2, S. Roberto, Barbadillo
A very deep, complex nose with notes of candied orange peel, stale nuts, band aid and chrushed rocks. The same characteristics as the wine above but not that intense.
The taste is also almost the same as the 1/2 but it doesn´t reach that height. Very impressive though.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)

NV Palo Cortado Bota Unica 1/1, S. Roberto, Barbadillo
Probably a wine for The ten most memorable of the year when I will make that list in January. The nose is a dream with a stunning intensity and nobility, with notes of red apples, earth, iodine, old tobacco and assorted nuts. Brilliant.
The taste is too intense, too layered, too perfect to describe. I can´t remember tasting a better Sherry. Impressive. 
99p   (tasted 2022/11)


A Sweet Ending
2018 Molino Real, Telmo Rodriguez
A high, sweet nose with notes of dried apricots, grilled lemons, warm grass and dried honey.
The taste is semisweet and creamy with notes of peaches, grilled lemons, birch sap and honey cakes. A tad heavy in the finish. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2022/11)


Wednesday 14 December 2022

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2012 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, André Jacquart


2012 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, André Jacquart
A high, creamy yet laid back nose with notes of fennel, chrushed rocks, dried up lemoncello and toast. Intense and fine. 
The taste is very young and very tight with a cleansing acidity and deep, locked up fruit in the shape of ripening apples and lemon peel. Lots of chalk. Needs plenty of time. 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)

Monday 12 December 2022

15 Bottles Of Monvigliero

14 of the 15 bottles tasted. The Pietro Rinaldi arrived the day before the tasting.

Monvigliero has made a great journey to famedome over the last 10 years. Before that, the quiet town of Verduno was largely forgotten when the great MGA´s of Barolo was discussed.
Not anymore, now everyone wants a slice of Monvigliero.

The MGA is 25,51 ha of which 88,5% is planted with Nebbiolo. Up to the 2018 vintage, according to Masnaghetti, there are 21 producers who owns a piece here and makes a Barolo.

We tasted 14 of those on this evening, and one producer who buys grapes.
I will comment on the progression or decline on day two. There were about 10 cl left in all bottles and they were kept cold with just a inserted corks until the following evening.

Flight I
2017 Barolo Monvigliero, La Bioca
A fine depth, there is some oaky notes but there also are nice fruit in the shape of chrushed cherries and notes of fir wood, licorice and earth. 
The taste is young and tight with notes of dark cherries, dry licorice and a nice perfumed note, with am oaky overcoat. 
On day two the oak had receded on the nose but the taste was the same. Notes from a visit to the estate here - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To La Bioca & Reva
86p   (tasted 2022/11)


2017 Barolo Monvigliero, Pietro Rinaldi
An open, cool nose with notes of red cherries, violets, dry licorice and a perfumed scent. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and focused with a fine cherry fruit, dry licorice and bakelite. Silky tannins. 6+ years.
Behaved exactly the same on day two.
88p   (tasted 2022/11)

2016 Barolo Monvigliero, Wongraven
This wine is made from bought grapes by Sigurd Wongraven, the singer (and more) of Satyricon. The nose is deep and fine with some VA initially, and notes of red cherries, earth and Christmas spices.
The taste is young and tight with notes of orange peel, red currants and forest floor. The tannins are a bit foursquare.
A tad thinner the second day.
86p   (tasted 2022/11)



My version of carne cruda with onion gravy, parmesan and truffle

2016 Barolo Monvigliero, Cascina Massara
A deep, somewhat smoky nose woth notes of ripe red fruits, undergrowth, dry licorice and rosehips.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of red cherries, orange peel, spices and tobacco. A fine length. Very, very good. 6+ years.
Performed on the same level day two.
88p   (tasted 2022/11)


2015 Barolo Monvigliero, Brangero
A very deep, spicy nose with notes of violets, ripe cherries, orange peel and fresh herbs. This is fine.
The taste is dry and refined with fine, black fruits, glossy tannins and a long, firm finish. Needs 8+ years.
Equally fine day two.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)

Flight II
2014 Barolo Monvigliero, Cadia
From a supposedly weak vintage, this beauty offers up a ethereal nose with notes of red currants, wild strawberries, earth and rosehips. Very fine.
The taste is elegant and racy with a fine, perfumed fruit, silky tannins and a medium long, handsome finish. For drinking sooner than later, but drinking perfect now. As good as it was when I visited Cadia - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Diego Morra, Cadia & Poderi Roset
Equally fine day two.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)


2013 Barolo Monvigliero, Arnaldo Rivera
Oak, oak and oak. I have a high tolerance for oak but sometimes its too much, even for me. There are som dark cherries and smoke in the background.
The taste is also dominated by oak, but maybe a tad less so. On day two the oak had receded somewhat but its still the dominant part of the wine. Wait 10 years and cross your fingers.
80p   (tasted 2022/11)

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Poderi Roset
I was impressed by this when I tasted it at the estate - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Diego Morra, Cadia & Poderi Roset - and its showed of the same quality on this night. 
The nose is deep and intense with notes of red cherries, earth, licorice and incense. Very fine.
The taste is tight and fine with lovely cherry fruit, notes of licorice, spices and earth, and with a long finish. 4+ years.
Behaved exactly the same on day two.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)


Mushroom ragu with fried sweetbread

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Bel Colle
A deep, somewhat restrained nose with notes of mushrooms, cherries, rosehips and smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is finely balanced and earthy with notes of red cherries, licorice and asphalt. Needs some more years in the cellar, 6+ years.
More earthy on day two but equally good.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)

2011 Barolo Monvigliero, Sordo
A mature, open nose with notes of dried raspberries, wood smoke, dry licorice and earth. Seems more mature than a 11 year old Barolo should be.
The taste is large scaled and forward with notes of coffee powder, forest floor, dried red fruits and fir wood. A tad foursquare. Almost fully mature. I was more impressed by the 13 Monvigliero when I visited the estate - Barolista: Two Days In Piedmont - A Visit To Giovanni Sordo.
Behaved the same on day two.
85p   (tasted 2022/11)

Flight III
2013 Barolo Monvigliero, Fratelli Alessandria
A pure, handsome nose with notes of Langhe earth, red cherries, mushrooms, rosehips and paint. Refined. Very fine.
The taste is intense and balanced with great fruit, silky tannins and long, pure finish. Still going places. 6+ years. Notes from a visit to Fratelli Alessandria - Barolista: The Barolo Boys Visit Fratelli Alessandria, Francesco Rinaldi & Marengo.
Behaved the same on day two.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)


2013 Barolo Monvigliero, Burlotto
The bottle that now cost as much as all the others combined... Not Fabios fault though. One of the most charming winemaker around - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - One Intense, Diligent, Nebbiolo Filled Saturday.
The 2013 Monvigliero displays a deep, balanced nose with notes of rowan berries, sweet/salt licorice, earth and incense. Complex and fine.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of red cherries, rosehips, shoe polish and earth. Very fine.
This improved much over the night, from a very, very good wine, to a great one. 4+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/11)

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Diego Morra
A very fine, cool, elegant nose with notes of red currants, tar, earth and hints of tobacco. A fine intensity.
The taste is nicely concentrated, pure and fine with assorted red fruits and sleek tannins. A very fine structure. 6+ years. Diego has one of the largest pieces of Monvigliero - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Diego Morra, Cadia & Poderi Roset.
Equally fine on day two.
93p   (tasted 2022/11)


Lamb with herb oil and macaroni & cheese on the side

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Paolo Scavino
The winner in the vote for best wine of the flight (the others tasted semi blind). I had the Fratelli Alessandria as the best then.
The nose is deep and intense with gorgeous notes of ripe red cherries, salt licorice, forest floor and mahogany. Very fine.
The taste is tight and velvety with stunning fruit and notes of almonds, earth, rosehips and whiffs of tobacco. Very long. 5+ years.
Notes from my two latest visits to Elisa - Barolista: Paolo Scavino - Two Fantastic Visits With Elisa Scavino.
Very fine on day two.
93p   (tasted 2022/11)


2010 Barolo Riserva Monvigliero, Castello di Verduno
A very fine, deep and a tad mature nose with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, dried flowers and fine tobacco. A fine balance.
The taste is elegant and with a beginning maturity. Fine notes of dried strawberries, earth, rosehips and paint. Long and distinct. Notes from a visit to the estate - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To Giovanni Rosso & Castello Di Verduno.
Actually felt younger day two, so no hurry to drink up.
93p   (tasted 2022/11)

Thursday 8 December 2022

2018 Barolo Brunate, Claudio Boggione


2018 Barolo Brunate, Claudio Boggione
A high, delicate nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, paint, red apples, earth and iodine. Very fine.
The taste is slender and elegant with notes of of roses, lingonberries, rosehips, shoe polish and some spices. Very balanced. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/12)


Tuesday 6 December 2022

Two Auslese

1964 Niersteiner Kehr Feine Auslese, Weingut Winzermeister Heinrich Seip. Nierstein
A family estate since 1696... The nose is delicate and mature with notes of dried apricots, orange peel, rubber and moist earth. 
The taste is dry and mature with a fine dried up sweetness and notes of apricots, candied oranges, dry grass and rubber. Mature but offers up a nice drinking experience. 
87p   (tasted 2022/11)


2009 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese, Robert Weil
From one om my favourite producers, this delivers the goods. The nose is very deep, explosive and just stunning with notes of juicy peaches, Sevilla oranges, matchbox and lots of sweet minerals. Gorgeous.
The taste is intense and ethereal with a breathtaking concentration, an abudance of ripe fruit, a piercing acidity and a lenght that is counted in minutes. A baby, this needs 10+ years in the cellar.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)

Monday 5 December 2022

Some Grand Cru Burgs


At our last monthly tasting in our tasting group, P poured these wines. Tasted double blind I was able to pinpoint them as Pinot Noir from Burgundy - the few times you get this close one has to brag :-)

2011 Mazoyères-Chambertin, Maison Ilan
On WineBerserkers there are hundreds of pages of Maison Ilan and its former owner. This was my first taste of a wine from Maison Ilan. I was intrigued.
The nose is mature, light and fragrant with notes of ripe lingonberries, wild strawberries, dill and forest floor. Reminds me of an mature Rioja. 
The taste is dry and almost fully mature with sweet, dried up red fruits, a very fine acidity and a long, fine finish with a fine warmth. Maybe a tad to mature given that its only 11 years old, but I liked it a lot.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)



2011 Corton Clos de la Vigne au Saint, Louis Latour
A fine warmth and a good depth but a tad foursquare on the nose, with notes of fir wood, dried raspberries, chrushed rocks and dried herbs.
The taste is good and sturdy, still youngish, with notes of raspberries, fir wood and gravel. Long and solid. 4+ years (but will it become better?).
87p   (tasted 2022/11)

2004 Corton Le Rognet, Henri Guénard
A large scaled, open, warm nose with notes of ripe red cherries, road dust, herbs and potatoe water. Fully mature.
The taste is dry and mature with dusty red fruit, oaky tannins and a long, warm finish. Holding up but the fruit is dominated by oak.
84p   (tasted 2022/11)



1995 Echezeaux, Henri Guénard
A fine, deep nose with notes of violets, dried raspberries, forest floor and hints of dog fur, adding complexity. Very, very good. 
The taste is dry and intense with notes of red cherries, dried raspberries, bakelite and some oaky notes in the finish, but the fruit manages to shine through. Mature but not overly so.
88p   (tasted 2022/11)

1995 Clos St-Denis, Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot
A gem. The nose is deep, complex and perfectly mature with notes of forest floor, vanilla cooked raspberries, fried herbs and tobacco. Gorgeous fruit.
The taste is younger than the nose leads you to believe, with lovely notes of cherry pips, dried raspberries, tobacco and herbs. A velvety feeling to it. Very long. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)



1982 Clos de la Roche, Robert Gibourg
A very mature, deep and fine nose with notes of undergrowth, cooked vegetables, assorted dried red fruits and old tobacco. A fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is round, mature and dry with dried red fruits, a fine acidity and a long finish with a dry warmth. Holding up nicely in the glass. Really good.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)