Friday 30 March 2018

Roast Lamb & Mature Burgundy

Lamb and Bordeaux? Naah, not here, the nice lamb roast was complimented with root vegetables and a garlic sauce, and I opened two bottles of mature Burgundy, and it turned out to be a great combination.

1983 Pommard-Epenots, Domaine Goud de Beaupuis
This 35 year old Pommard shows of a big, mature, warm nose with notes of a fresh stable, root vegetables, stale Coca-Cola, dry licorice and some bonfire scents. Rustic, with a fine maturity.
The taste is round and warm with a dried up sweetness and notes of dried raspberries, sweet tobacco, undergrowth and sugared rhubarb. A medium long finish that ends with a fine dryness. On top of its game. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/03)


1985 Pommard Les Epenots, F. Gaunoux
A deep, dark, spicy nose with notes of moist undergrowth, bay leaves, dark flowers, mushrooms, tobacco and some rusty aromas in the background. Complex and very fine.
The taste is concentrated and tight with notes of tobacco, forest floor, raspberry balsamic vinegar, tobacco and beet roots. A very fine warmth. Long and fine. Fully mature but bottles like this will keep for 8+ years. A rich, rewarding Burgundy.
92p   (tasted 2018/03)

Saturday 24 March 2018

Burgers & 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Selection, Raymond


2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Selection, Raymond
Juicy burgers for tonights dinner with all the fixings - fried onion rings, sallad, my own version of Rhode Island dressing, hard fried bacon, over night tomatoes, sallad and of course Heston´s Perfect Chips.

What to drink? After some hours doing inventory in the cellar, I came up with a bottle of...

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Selection, Raymond
Tasted one year ago, I was deeply impressed but this Napa Cabernet and I bought a bunch. Time to test drive one bottle. 
Aaaaah, what a gorgeous, deep, powerful yet high and intense nose, with notes of ripe black currants, mocha, expensive leather, violets and still, a touch of green peppers. Haven´t changed that much on the nose.
But it has on the palate, the tannins are more forward and direct, but they are ripe and very polished. In the background there is plenty of juicy Cabernet fruit in the shape of black currants, tobacco, dark chocolate and red beets. Very long and distinct. Gonna evolve nicely for 10+ years. Can still be bought for 40 Euro, what a bargain!
95p   (tasted 2018/03)

Friday 23 March 2018

Friday Dinner Barolo - 1985 Barolo Riserva, B. Cossano

1985 Barolo Riserva, B. Cossano
I would like to visit B. Cossano - a) if they still excist (can´t find anything on the web) and b) if they still make wine like this 1985.
An unassuming bottle with a label both in Italian and German, with the back label stating that Barolo is "die König die Weine" - can´t argue with that! To be honest, I didn´t have high hopes but shame on me. Four hours since I opened and decanted it and it just gets better and better...
The nose is, after a couple of hours, velvety, warm and mature with notes of mushrooms, dried cherries, old expensive leather, diesel oil and some cool meaty aromas. Rich and very fine. A lovely dried up sweetness.
The taste is warm and mature with a fine core of ripe, dried cherries and additional notes of sweet licorice, fir smoke, rosehips and sugared coffee. Very long and not at least dry in the finish. There are even some gentle tannins at the end. Bottles like this would surely go on for 5+ years. Impressive and unexpected.
91p   (tasted 2018/03)


Thursday 22 March 2018

A Nice Dinner With Bottles From Foradori, Simon Maye, Burlotto, Elio Grasso & More!

S invited to dinner to drink some nice wines. It turned out to be a great evening.
All wines tasted double blind.

2004 Piesporter Domherr Riesling Spätlese, Reinhold Haart
A mature and creamy nose with notes of (over)ripe red apples, wet asphalt and rubber. Some oily elements that lead my thoughts to Chenin Blanc.
The taste is mature, medium bodied and fine with notes of apples, dried up vanilla ice cream and minerals. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2018/02)


2015 Teroldego, Foradori
This was meant for the Granato tasting we had recently but didn´t make it in time. The nose is high, fresh and juicy with notes of underbrush, wet concrete, herbs and ripening raspberries. Uplifting and fine.
The taste is light and pure with notes of fresh herbs, a mix of blueberries and raspberries and some inky notes. Cool and fine.
89p   (tasted 2018/02)



2010 Granato, Foradori
This was poured at the Granato tasting mentioned above but it was corked. S generously opened another bottle this evening. And what a wine! The nose is deep and earthy with notes of red bell peppers, red beets, forest floor, chrushed rocks and some meaty aromas in the back. Very deep and refined.
The taste is tight and structured with notes of blueberries, earth, violets and a hint of tobacco. Very long with silky tannins. A wonderful purity. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2018/02)

2010 Syrah, Anne-Catherine & Denis Mercier
A nicely balanced and a little low keyed nose with notes of herbs, bakelite, rosemary and cold meat. Very fine.
The taste is tight and warm with notes of red beets, veal stock, bonfire smoke and chrushed peppers. Long and fine.
91p   (tasted 2018/02)

2010 Syrah Vieilles Vignes, Simon Maye
At the recent Simon Maye vertical the bottle of 2010 Vieilles Vignes was not corked but weird, given the vintage and how the regular Syrah performed, so, again, S kindly opened another bottle.
Mama mia - this is the real thing! The nose is very deep, smoky and profound with notes of chrushed black peppers, ripe blueberries, violets, dark flowers, meat juice and dark chocolate. Absolutely stunning.
The taste is concentrated, high and gorgeous with notes of peppered meat, ripe blueberries with some raspberries tossed in, dried flowers, a deep perfumed note and some scorched earth notes at the end. The finish goes on for over a minute. Flawless. Will hit perfection in 6+ years.
98p   (tasted 2018/02)


2011 Barolo Acclivi, Burlotto
Tasting blind, I was in Barbaresco with this one. The nose is high, light and pure with notes of iron, red currants, violets and ripening cherries. Airy and fine.
The taste is cool and seedy with notes of ripe lingonberries, cigarette ash, dried meat and dry gravel. A fine, linear note. Expressive. Highly likeable.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)



2013 Barolo Castiglione, Vietti
Tasted twice the last year - both times at the estate - in June of 2017 and in November of 2017, I have come to really like this wine, and this bottle was no exception. Will drink great from 5 years time and the coming 10+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

2013 Barolo Case Maté, Elio Grasso
This is a great bottle of Barolo. The nose is handsome and pure with fine notes of ripe red cherries, rosehips, mushrooms and chrushed rocks. Classy..
The taste is tight and sandy with notes of red cherries, dry asphalt, violets and ceps. A long, lingering finish with character and energy. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/2)



2001 Barolo Monprivato, Giuseppe Mascarello
A deep, lightly meaty nose with additional notes of warm tiles, asphalt, dried cherries and Christmas spices. Very good but a tad compact.
The taste is structured amd dry with notes of asphalt, dried red fruits, red beets and assorted herbs.
A long, warm finish with some mature features. Very, very good but I was a tad disappointed when the bottle was unfolded.
90p   (tasted 2018/02)

1967 Quarts de Chaume, Domaine des Baumard
When the bottle was revealed it was too much surprise, not that it was a Chenin Blanc, but that it was 51 years old! It behaved like a 20 year old. The nose is deep and barely mature with notes of yellow plums, soap, smoke, hay, ski wax and some rubbery aromas. Very cool and fine.
The taste is soft yet intense, balanced yet a tad ungainly, mature yet youngish; with notes of yellow apples, slate, beeswax, dried flowers and a hint of band aid. Very long. Ends semi dry. Perfect now and bottles like this will surely keep for 10+ years. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2018/02)



2004 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil
The evening ended with this uplifting Spätlese from one of my favourite Riesling producers. The nose is stunning in its freshness and high spirit. Fine notes of fennel seeds, grilled lemons, yellow flowers, apricots and lots of sweet minerals. Very racy and fine.
The taste is pure, aristocratic and just lovely with notes of lime peel, chushed rocks, dried flowers and some smoky elements. Pure as a mountain river. Very, very long. Perfect tonight but could be kept for 5+ years. A really fine bottle of wine.
94p   (tasted 2018/02)

Wednesday 21 March 2018

1998 Château Grand-Pey-Lescours

1998 Château Grand-Pey-Lescours
When I tasted this two years ago I thought that it was "in a perfect drinking phase". Time to open another bottle and check out any development.
When popped and poured it displays some murky stable notes that soon blows away, leaving room for nice notes of fresh stables instead and additional scents of plums, fir smoke, pipe tobacco, leather and even some meaty, sausage aromas. Bigger than last time, as I remember, and better.
The taste is on the verge of full maturity with notes of black currants, plums, tobacco, chocolate biscuits and warm rocks. A very nice mouthfeel with a hint of dryness at the end. Again, drinking great, but bottles like this could be kept for another 6+ years. A very nice 20 year old Bordeaux.
90p   (tasted 2018/03)


Tuesday 20 March 2018

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Giovanni Corino & Sordo


Only 15 days before The Barolo Boys yet again descends on Barolo. But there are still notes to be posted from my visit in Janyary.

Giovanni Corino
My first visit to Giovanni Corino. I was met by Andrea Corino who showed me the cellar and opened these fine bottles for me to taste.




2016 Dolcetto d´Alba
A fine, sporty Dolcetto with notes of blueberries, ink, forest floor and spices. Fresh and fine.
The taste is juicy and light with a fine purity, salivating tannins and a medium long finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/01)


2016 Barbera d´Alba
An upfront, juicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, asphalt and a hint of tobacco. Round and fine.
The taste is racy, tight and fine with notes of raspberry licorice, gravel and warm herbs. A fine acidity.
88p   (tasted 2018/01)



2015 Barbera Ciabot Dù Re
The 15 Ciabot Dù Re has a deep, gorgeous nose with lots of ripe raspberries and additional notes of Christmas spices, scorched earth and leather. Really good.
The taste is warm and spicy with a cery good grip and plenty of raspberry fruit with some asphalt - and licorice notes tossed in. Lovely.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo
A high, fine nose with notes of cool cherries, hard licorice, violets and forest floor. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and structured with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice and mushrooms. Sandy tannins. Another glimpse of what 2016 will have in store for us when the Baroli will be released.
90p   (tasted 2018/01)


2014 Barolo
The 14 Normale has a light, high nose with notes of red cherries, licorice and smoke. A fine earthiness.
The taste is young and tight with notes of dried up raspberry jam. mushrooms and asphalt. A good grip. Some dry tannins at the end. 3+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/01)



2013 Barolo
The 13 Barolo shows a deep, spicy nose with notes of dark cherry fruit, Finnish licorice and smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with silky tannins, a lovely cherry fruit and a long, tobacco filled finish. A really fine 13 Normale. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Giachini
A deep, herbal, smoky nose with notes of ripe red cherries, asphalt and violets. Very fine.
The taste is cool and layered with notes of hard cherry candy, smoke, tobacco and some dry chocolate at the end of the long finish. This is good! 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/01)


2014 Barolo Arborina
The Arborina has a somewhat restrained nose with notes of ripening red fruits, cool tobacco, gravel and a hint of mint. A good depth.
The taste is more open with notes of dried strawberries, smoke, rosehips and gravel. A long, lingering finish. Silky tannins. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)

2012 Barolo Riserva
Here we can talk about depth! A refined, complex nose with notes of dried cherries, fir smoke, meat and dried flowers. Perfumed and very fine.
The taste is big and structured yet with a fine balance and lovely notes of dried cherries, forest floor, paint and roses. An old vine feeling. Very long. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2018/01)



2013 L´Insieme
Corino´s L´Insieme is a blend of 40% Nebbiolo, 30% Barbera and 15% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is open and warm with notes of herbs, tobacco, spices and a mix of raspberries and red currants. Very good.
The taste is big and smoky with notes of bonfire smoke, red and black currants and spices. Long and warm. Good but lacks the refinement of the Nebbiolo´s.
86p   (tasted 2018/01)



Sordo
I visited Sordo last summer and really liked the 2013 line up so I was eager to taste the 14´s. Arriving at the estate the glasses are prepared and so am I!


Sordo has an impressive range of Barolo cru´s, eight of them and including the Normale I was going to taste nine Baroli here, nice for my Barolo count :-)
Paolo took care of me as last time but I also got to meet Giorgio Sordo, the head of the family and owner, justifiable proud of the wines of this estate.


2014 Barolo
A tad restrained with an earthy character and notes of lingonberries, dry licorice and road dust.
The taste is light and fine with crisp red fruit, snappy tannins and a medium long finish. 2+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Monvigliero
First out of the cru´s is the Monvigliero which shows a light, delicate nose with notes of Christmas spices, dried strawberries and chrushed rocks. Very fine.
The taste is cool and spicy with notes of dried strawberries, herbs and a hint of dark fudge. Long and fine with juicy tannins. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Ravera
The Ravera is warm and spicy with notes of cherries, coffee grounds and a hint of mint. Very fine.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of cherries, violets and undergrowth. A fine warmth. Sandy tannins. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)


2014 Barolo Gabutti
A laid back, almost shy nose at first and it needed some swirling to let of notes of lingonberries, cocoa, Christmas spices and forest floor. Very young.
The taste is tight and restrained with notes of red currants, cranberries, rosehips and gravel. Will need 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
The Rocche always delivers and gets special with age, as as the 04 proved a couple of months ago. The ten year younger version displays a rocky, intense nose with notes of roses, ripening raspberries, tobacco and asphalt. Very deep and promising.
The taste is tight and polished with notes of red cherries, red tea, rosehips, mushrooms and a hint of tar. Very classic and very fine. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Villero
The Villero has a high, concentrated nose with notes of earth, licorice, ripe lingonberries and bakelite. Deep and fine.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of hard cherry candy, fried herbs, undergrowth and a hint of tobacco. Very long and distinct. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/01)


2014 Barolo Parussi
There is lots of ripe cherries on the nose of the Parussi, alongside notes of tar, violets and incense. Very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of spices, undergrowth, hard cherry candy and asphalt. Very, very long. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Monprivato
From hallowed ground the Sordo Monprivato has a deep, concentrated nose with notes of sweet tobacco, raspberry licorice, forest floor and chrushed rocks. Some balsamic scents are also there, in this complex and multi layered nose.
The taste is very tight and intense with notes of ripe cherries, asphalt, tobacco and dried mushrooms. The wave of sandy tannins that comes in the finish is impressing. For the long haul. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Perno
The Perno has a deep and restrained nose with notes of violets, black cherries, smoke and bakelite. Very deep. Will need time.
The taste is concentrated and taut with stern tannins and a locked up dark cherry fruit, alongside notes of dry tobacco, asphalt and violets. Very long. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)

The cellar masters at Sordo

Sunday 18 March 2018

Three Brunello´s Of Late

1977 (?) Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio Alle Mura
Believed to be a 1977 (the vintage label is lost) and sold as such. At least it has to be before 1984 when Banfi bought the estate. I have had nice experiences in the past with older vintage of Poggio Alle Mura, but never tasted the 77. The nose is a bit murky when opened but just after 15 minutes in the glass it opens up and become clean and fine with notes of dried herbs, red currants, old leather, violets and some bonfire scents. Very, very good.
On the palate it is a bit more compact and angular with notes of dried cherries, dry herbs, tobacco road dust. Still some tannins that are drying out the finish. Much better on the nose. Went fine with the food though.
85p   (tasted 2018/02)



1988 Brunello di Montalcino, Livio Sassetti
A fine, mature nose with notes of dark cherries marinated in Armagnac, tobacco, old leather, warm rosemary and Tuscan gravel. A fine roundness and depth. Very, very good. Perfectly mature.
The taste still has vigour and intensity with notes of tobacco, earth, dried cherries and herbs. A fine long, velvety finish. Drinking great.
91p   (tasted 2018/03)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Col di Orcia
The nose is wide open, higly likeable and salivating when popped and poured. It has notes of red currants, tobacco, fresh herbs where rosemary and sage are the most prominent ones, and that lovely scent of a warm Tuscan gravel road. Really good, although very young and primary.
The taste is fresh, juicy and fine but with a healthy dose of stuffing in the shape of polished tannins and a fresh acidity. Notes of red cherries, red currants, warm tiles, tobacco and gravel makes up the taste. Long and crisp. Will develop nicely over the coming 10 years.
91p   (tasted 2018/03)


Tuesday 13 March 2018

The New Australia - Oakridge, Murdoch Hill, Ministry Of Clouds & Ruggabellus

I was invited by Quaffable Wines to taste "The New Australia" - wines highlightning freshness, terroir, balance and that are lower in alcohol; in contrast to the previous "oak monsters" that had maximum ripeness, sweetness and a high alcohol content (but I must confess that I like those broad shouldered ones to...:-)). A fine showing of distinct and personal wines.

Oakridge
2016 Over The Shoulder Chardonnay
A fine, lightly smoky nose with notes of white flowers, pears and lemons. Cool and fine.
The taste is dry and cool with notes of lime, white flowers and chrushed flint. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Local Vineyards Series Barkala Chardonnay
A very fine, nutty nose with notes of summer flowers, chrushed rocks and tangerines. A fine depth. Some matchstick aromas.
The taste is tight and stringent with a very fine acidity and notes of white currants, lemon cream and minerals. Really fine.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 Over The Shoulder Pinot Noir
A nice, spicy nose with notes of smoke, dark red berries and some rubbery scents.
The taste is high pitched with notes of dried raspberries, earth and root vegetables. A tad foursquare. A good acidity.
86p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 Local Vineyards Series Willowlake Pinot Noir
A fine, medium deep nose with notes of raspberries, licorice, earth and a hint of chocolate.
The taste is sandy and structured with notes of red currants, minerals and licorice. A fine mouthfeel. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2018/02)

Murdoch Hill
2016 Pinot Noir
A cool nose with notes of dried strawberries, anise and some warm dusty aromas.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of raspberries, licorice and earth. Some dry tannins at the end. Needs some years.
87p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Sulky
The Sulky is a blend of 50% Syrah, 25% Merlot and 25% Pinot Meunier and sports a deep, focused nose with notes of spices, meat stock, licorice and burning birch logs. Very fine.
The taste is long and tight with notes of grounded peppers, cool blackberries, earth and spices. Lovely.
91p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Pheaeton Pinot Noir
A racy, refined nose with notes of wild strawberries, licorice, fertil soil and spices. Very handsome. Really fine.
The taste is finely tuned but with substance and character and notes of roses, strawberries, earth and herbs. A very fine acidity. Long and rewarding. Great.
93p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 The Surrey Pinot Meunier
It is not every day I drink a pure Pinot Meunier. This one has a fine, spicy nose with notes of cranberries, earth, cigarette ash and a hint of chocolate. Interesting and fine.
The taste is cool and handsome with notes of ripe lingonberries, cranberries, spices and some tobacco notes. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Landau Syrah
A really fine, laidback nose with notes of white pepper, veal, bakelite and chrushed rocks.
The taste is finely structured and sandy with notes of violets, meat, white peppers and some nougat. A very long, balanced finish. Gorgeous.
93p   (tasted 2018/02)

Ministry of Clouds
2016 Grenache
There is lots of underbrush, fir wood, lingonberries and rubber in this complex, pure, high nose. Really fine.
The taste is racy and fine with notes of allspice, sand, leather and herbs. A very fine tannin/acidity combo. Great wine.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 Shiraz
A fine, deep, peppery nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, blueberries, meat and scorched earth.
The taste is balanced and sandy with notes of blueberries, bay leaves, salt licorice and black pepper. A fine, structured finish. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Tempranillo Grenache
A earthy, dry nose with notes of mixed red fruits, capers and some smoke.
The taste is seedy and warm with notes of ripe lingonberries, dry wood, herbs and forest floor. Nice enough.
87p   (tasted 2018/02)

Ruggabellus
2016 Fluus
A high pitched nose with notes of herb, soap, hot gravel and a mix of blueberries and raspberries. Interesting.
The taste is cool and energetic with notes of lingonberries, undergrowth and herbs. The finish is a tad angular. Very good. 38% Syrah, 21% Cinsault, 21% Grenache and 20% Mataro.
88p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Efferus
The 2015 was a stunner. The 16 is even better. The nose is tight and handsome with lovely notes of dried strawberries, wet asphalt, fresh herbs and a hint of tobacco. Very, very fine.
The taste is pure and concentrated with a lovely balance, silky tannins and a long, harmonious finish. A great wine now and will go on for 10+ years. 71% Mataro, 17% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 2% Cinsault.
95p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 Timaeus
This 76% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 7% Mataro and 5% Cinsault blend offers up a warm, herbal nose with a fine concentration and a fine smoke raspberry fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and complex with notes of smoke, earth, dried raspberries and assorted peppers. A long, sandy finish. A very fine wine.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

Monday 12 March 2018

1993 Cetinaia, Castello Di San Polo In Rosso

Again, the self proclaimed cape crusader of the virtues of the 1993 vintage, opens another bottle!

1993 Cetinaia, Castello di San Polo in Rosso
This estate has ceased to make its own wine and leases their vineyards to local winemakers. The nose is mature but still possess vigour and joy in the form of sour/sweer cherries, fir smoke, Tuscan gravel and dried rosemary. Very good.
The taste is cool and mature with notes of dried cherries, sage, undergrowth and violets. Medium long and a tad dry at the end of the finish. A fine acidity. A fine drink.
87p   (tasted 2018/03)


Thursday 8 March 2018

Fifth Day In The Mountains - 1989 Barolo Vigna Farina, Giacomo Ascheri

More snow, more skiing & more Barolo!

1989 Barolo Vigna Farina, Giacomo Ascheri
A little bit on the murky side when opened but after one hour in a decanter, this 29 year old Barolo shows lovely signs of undergrowth, dried meat, overripe strawberries, dark incense and dry chocolate. A very fine dried up warmth. Really good.
The taste is mature, dry and warm with notes of dried strawberries, ceps, dry asphalt and forest floor. A fine dryness in the long finish. Has matured nicely and is fully mature but will surely keep for another 4-6 years (or at least I hope so since I have two more bottles...)
91p   (tasted 2018/03)


Tuesday 6 March 2018

Third Day In The Mountains - 2012 Barolo Cannubi, Burlotto


Second day of cross country skiing and I discover muscles that I haven´t felt for a long time... Need some good Barolo to ease the soreness.

2012 Barolo Cannubi, Burlotto
A high, pure, intense nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, incense, mosquito repellent, paint and rain wet asphalt. Complex, refined and gorgeous. Lots of mushrooms with air. Just lovely.
The taste is low keyed intense and fresh with notes of dried wild strawberries, spices, lingonberries, mushrooms and a hint of white peppers at the end. Silky tannins and a long, long persistent finish. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2018/02)

Monday 5 March 2018

Second Day In The Mountains - 1993 Barolo Vigna Francesco, Rocche Costamagna

I feel like I am the cape crusader of the virtues of the 1993 vintage. Here is another great bottle from that underrated vintage. But I really should keep it to myself so I can keep on snapping up bottles like this for 30 Euro...

1993 Barolo Vigna Francesco, Rocche Costamagna
This wine, which today is a Riserva, comes from the bricco parts of Rocche dell´Annunziata and is named after the forefather of the currents owners. The nose is finely matured with notes of dried cherries, tobacco, rosehips, asphalt and leather. A fine complexity that only can come with bottle age.
The taste is dry and expressive with notes of dried cherries, coffee grounds, mushrooms and dry licorice. A fine, long, dry finish.  Drinking perfect 10 years ago, now, and the coming 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/03)


Sunday 4 March 2018

First Day In The Mountains - 2008 Barolo Riserva Simposio, Bel Colle

We have gone to Sälen for a week of skiing (and in my case drinking wine...). First day - unpacking, grocery shopping and just settling in. Why not open a Barolo?

2008 Barolo Riserva Simposio, Bel Colle
This needs a lot of air, but then, ooh boy, this is gooood! From vineyards in Verduno this 10 year old Barolo displays a deep, high and pure nose with notes of hard cherry candy, forest floor, fresh mushrooms, clay and incense. Somewhat laid back - still youngish - but very deep and with a slumbering power. A lovely depth. Really fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of ripening red cherries, dry asphalt, dark flowers, licorice and masonite. The finish is very long, layered and showing fine, polished tannins. A Verduno lightness yet displaying a firm structure. Glad I have more. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/03)




Saturday 3 March 2018

1992 Barolo, Aurelio Settimo


1992 Barolo, Aurelio Settimo
To be honest, I didn´t have any high hopes for this bottle. It came in a mixed case where some other bottles were the ones I wanted. But being curious of everything from the hallowed lands of Langhe, I of course had to try it out. And it performed better than expected.
The nose is although the weakest part, with a soft, dry character and notes of earth, gravel, cranberries and some dry tobacco. Not very upliftning, but not by any means faulty, just a tad one dimensional.
The taste on the other hand is really good, with fine notes of dried raspberries, herbs, forest floor and some dry tobacco. Medium long and not at all dry at the end. Even a nice warmth at the end. Very good.
85p   (tasted 2018/03)

Friday 2 March 2018

24 Hours In The Rhone Valley - Part Two - Crozes Hermitage, Hermitage & Tasting The Jaboulet Lineup


Disclaimer - this trip was fully paid by Nigab.
One could ask oneself - does that affect my opions on the wines tasted? IMHO not a bit. I am far too old (and too cynical :-)), have tasted too much and have the funds too (almost...) buy the wines I like and make the journeys I want. I just call the wines as I see them.

After a great first day in the Rhone valley, we woke up to a semi clear day and headed down to Crozes Hermitage with Bertrand.
Crozes Hermitage is large, Rhone valley´s largest AOC with over 1.600 ha. Jaboulet´s Domaine de Thalabert is a 45 ha cohesive area (with some ha in another plot) on the flatlands just beside the road, and even when you see the old vines, you wonder, great wines from here? The 2015 Domaine de Thalabert showed me later in the day how really, really great wines can be made from these land.





Hermitage - another climb, although not as steep as in Côte-Ròtie and you could walk on real roads all the way up. Up there, we had a great view over the Hermitage hill and the surroundings.





After our vineyards excursions we headed to Vineum, Jaboulet´s tasting room and wine store in Tain l´Hermitage, where we had a great tasting and lunch with Bertrand.

The Whites
2016 Côtes du Rhône Parallele 45
The white Parallele 45 has a light , fragrant nose with notes of herbs, cucumber and flint. Some grassy scents also. Very good.
The taste is light and easy going with notes of lemons, apricots and gravel. A fine oiliness. A fine upfront drink. 1/3 organic. Bought grapes.
87p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 Crozes Hermitage Mule Blanche
50% Marsanne, 50% Roussane. A cool, smoky, peachy nose with additional notes of apricots and hot gravel. A fine fatness to the nose. Very, very good.
The taste offers up a melange of apricots, dried up honey, orange peel and chrushed rocks. A very fine acidity. Long and tight.
90p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Condrieu Les Cassines
An open, flowery nose with notes of wet asphalt, whites flowers and red currants. A delicate sweetness.
The taste is medium bodied and fine with notes of pears, apricots and warm grass. A long, fine finish with a good acidity.
88p   (tasted 2018/02)


Eggs for the whites
2015 Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg
Tasted twice in two days! From a half magnum it is a tad more restrained with more rocks, almonds and a hint of rubber on the nose and a refined and balanced taste. The magnum was more flashy, but this is a serious wine.
93p   (tasted 2018/02)



2014 Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg
The 14 was a interesting comparison, with a more round and mature feeling. The nose offers up notes of ripening peaches, dried flowers, earth and herbs. Very deep. A lovely dried up sweetness.
The taste is refined and structured with notes of grilled lemons, dried up vanilla ice cream, minerals and dried flowers. Very long and very fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/02)

The Reds
2015 Côtes du Rhône Parallele 45
There were som different opions on the two red Parallele 45. Most seem to prefer the younger and fruity 16. Not me. The 15 has a meaty, barnyardy nose with notes of licorice, blueberries and violets. Very good and a tad old fashioned.
The taste has an interesting mix of black pepper, blueberries and rusty steel that ends dry and fine. For 11 Euro, a real bargain.
88p   (tasted 2018/02)


2016 Côtes du Rhône Parallele 45
The 16 Parallele is upfront and juicy with a mix of raspberries and blueberries and some herbs and ink as complement. Good but more direct and easy than the 15.
The taste is young, medium bodied and fresh with notes of blueberries, iron and tobacco. A hint of bitterness in the finish. Nice enough but not as complex (for this level) as the 15.
85p   (tasted 2018/02)

2016 Crozes Hermitage Les Jalets
There are some reductive, complex notes of barnyard, dog fur and meat on the nose but with the fine blueberry fruit and cool peppery scents, I think this is very nice.
The taste is tight and a little withdrawn with notes of ink, gravel, cranberries and smoke. Still very young of course. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2018/02)

2015 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert
A stunner! A deep, meaty yet light and airy nose, full of ripe blueberries with some blackberries tossed in, violets, black pepper and and a flowery perfumed scent. Really fine.
The taste is tight and lovingly put together with ripe fruit, silky tannins, upliftning acidity and looong finish. With a solid structure, this will age gracefully for 15+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/02)


My kind of cellar - 1200 barriques...
2015 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure
The Domaine de Roure is a bit denser and richer than the Thalabert, with notes of blue- and blackberries, scorched earth, clay with some dried strawberries at the bottom of the nose.
The taste is large scaled and concentrated with notes of ripe black fruits, iron, meat juice and violets. Long and steady. Very, very good but not as complex and lively as the Thalabert.
92p   (tasted 2018/02)

2014 Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles
2014 was a difficult year but this Côte-Rôtie comes out of the glass with flying colors and notes of veal stock, white peppers, bakelite and red currants. Very refined. Cool and classy.
The taste is a little on the light side but there is much to like here in form of ripe red currants, blood and iron, peppers and earth. Silky, low keyed tannins. Very, very good. 3+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/02)


2015 Hermitage La Maison Bleue
The little brother of La Chapelle, or as it was called La Petite Chapelle between 2001 and 2014. The grapes comes from the most easterly vineyards, where the soil is deeper, less stony and the slope flatter.
But there is nothing small with this wine, it is a beauty. There is a rugged intensity and a rocky depth that is impressive, alongside notes of ripe bluberries, fresh herbs and some dried strawberries at the end.
The taste is very tight and concentrated with notes of ripe cranberries, damsons, black pepper dusted raspberries and scorched earth. In the long, long finish there is a fine note of dark violets. Stunning juice. 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/02)


2015 Hermitage La Chapelle
Aaaah, this is what dreams are made of! The nose soares up from the glass with gorgeous aromas of dry blyeberry pie, black tea, seared meat, earth and dry licorice. Very, very deep and hauntingly beautiful. A poster child for a multilayered nose.
The taste is massive yet light on its feet with granite powdered blueberries, ripe flowers, dark tobacco and a two minute long, intense, mouth coating finish. Give this 10+ years and you are looking at perfection.
98p   (tasted 2018/02)

1988 Hermitage La Chapelle
At the end of the tasting, Bernard went and fetched this from the cellar. A real treat to taste this 30 year old La Chapelle, even though you could sense and taste that this was from a bygone era. The nose is deep, broading and bloody with notes of tobacco, forest floor, dog fur and raisins. A fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is dry, tight and with a fine dark dried up sweetness with notes of tobacco, damsons, moist earth and leather. Long, warm and dry. A big mouthful of mature Syrah with drying tannins.
90p   (tasted 2018/02)