Saturday 29 May 2021

Two Bottle Of Bubbly - A Leaker & A Stunner


Having lots of older bottles you sometimes get a leaker. That happened yesterday when I went to collect some bottles from the cellar. 
A small pool of wine on the floor. I took it home with a youngster I was eager to try.

NV Brut, Besserot de Bellefon
According to the seller, this was from the 60´s. I hadn´t much hope when I put my nose in the glass but it was more alive than I had thought. Lots of dried apricots, old wrinked apples, earth and mushrooms flows up from the glass. Still alive.
The taste is even fresher than the nose with tiny, tiny bubbles and notes of dry orange fudge, apricots, earth and gravel. A decent length. 
78p   (tasted 2021/05)



2010 Clos de Cazals, Claude Cazals
This wine comes from one of the few real Clos in Champagne, a closed in plot planted in the 50´s with Chardonnay. This is only the second vintage, the first was the 2003. Zero dosage.
The nose is deep, chalky and complex with notes of lemon peel, white currants, road dust, ripe Sevilla oranges (on day two) and a ever so slight hint of coconut. Very fine. Very young.
The taste is steely and fine with notes of lemon peel, star fruit, unripe grape fruit and sun warm gravel. A very high, finely tuned acidity. Very, very long. Impressive in a taut, high browed way. A really great wine, but - for my palate - if this have had 3-5 gr dosage, this would have been in the high 90´s.
Best on day two (as always...).
94p   (tasted 2021/05)

Friday 28 May 2021

1998 Château Fonréaud


1998 Château Fonréaud
I have a very fond memory of a bottle of 1982 Fonréaud some 30 years ago, so when I spotted a 1998 for the ghastly price of 19 Euro (yes, Bordeaux is expensive, always)....I jumped at the chance and bought a bottle. Glad I did.
The nose is as classic as they come, with lovely notes of cedar wood, black currants, tobacco and hints of a fresh stable. A ever so small scent of warm grass. Very, very good.
The taste is more linear that the nose with notes of dried black currants, cold coffee, earth and dry tobacco. Silky initially with a dry ending. Classic. Fully mature.
89p   (tasted 2021/05)

Thursday 27 May 2021

2015 & 2019 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa

2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
A deep, tight nose with notes of iron, damsons, bakelite and blueberry bushes. A good backbone. Very, very good.
The taste is concentrated and inky with notes of ripe blueberries, gravel, frsh herbs and licorice. Silky tannins. Still young. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2021/05)


2019 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
A young, spicy nose with notes of asphalt, gravel, smoke and damsons. Som dry tobacco aromas after a while. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and herbal with notes of a mix od ripe blueberries and raspberries alongside gravel, almond paste and tobacco. Taut tannins. 8+ years.
90p   (tasted 2021/05)

Wednesday 26 May 2021

2020 Dogliani Bricco Mollea, Trediberri


2020 Dogliani Bricco Mollea, Trediberri
A young, energetic nose that jumps from the glass with notes of blueberry bushes, violets, spices and ink. A serious Dolcetto that needs time.
The taste is young and tight with notes of iron, ripe blueberries, bakelite and dry licorice. A fine tension. 5+ years. Has the energy of its maker, visiting Nicola is like going on a roller coaster ride!
89p   (tasted 2021/05)

Saturday 22 May 2021

Two 2019 Dolcetto - Elio Altare & Giuseppe Mascarello

2019 Dolcetto d´Alba, Elio Altare
A young, spicy nose flows up from the glass with notes of ripe blueberries, asphalt, violets and gravel. Pure and fine.
The taste is seedy and fresh with notes of minerals, blueberries, bakelite and a hint of tobacco. Silky tannins. Long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2021/05)



2019 Dolcetto d´Alba Vigna Bricco Mirasole, Giuseppe Mascarello
A stunning Dolcetto! A deep, cool, complex nose with notes of forest floor, ripe lingonberries, violets, fir wood and saw dust. Very fine.
The taste is young, tight and spicy with notes of lingonberries, rosehips, earth and birch sap. Very long with ripe tannins. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2021/05)


Saturday 15 May 2021

2004 Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta, Produttori del Barbaresco


2004 Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta, Produttori del Barbaresco
A high, fine, authoritarian nose with notes of decaying roses, dried cherries, tobacco, charcoal and a moist forest floor. Very deep and fine. Structured.
The taste is tight and still a tad forceful with notes of hard cherry candy, cranberries, rust and some balsamic notes. A long finish with a fine, dry ending. Not a charmer but very fine in a old school (the best one) kind of way.
93p   (tasted 2021/05)

Friday 14 May 2021

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2008 Rose Brut Sable, Aubry



2008 Brut Rose Sable, Aubry
A stony, fresh nose with notes of red currants, earth, summer gravel and dried flowers. A fine intensity. Very, very good.
The taste is creamy and fine with notes of rhubarb, red currants, earth and a touch of nougat. A very fine acidity.
92p   (tasted 2021/05)



Thursday 13 May 2021

2017 Estate Chardonnay, Mount Eden Vineyards


2017 Estate Chardonnay, Mount Eden Vineyards
A deep, rich, gorgeous nose with notes of lemon cream, matchbox, whitebpeach, roasted nuts, yellow flowers and lemon fudge. Just lovely. Layers upon layers. Hints of linoleum. Stately.
The taste is creamy and concentrated with focus, balance and richness. Beautiful fruit, a lively acidity and a long, long finish. Dry and very fine. Great wine. Need to get more of this beauty.
95p   (tasted 2021/05)

Sunday 9 May 2021

NV Conversation Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, J. L. Vergnon


NV Conversation Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, J. L. Vergnon
A laid back, stony nose with notes of lemon cream, white currants, red grapefruit and dry biscuits. Very, very good in a ascetic style. More creamy on day two.
The taste is tight and dry with a fine acidity and notes of dry fudge, lemon cream, birch leaves and yellow flowers. A long, delicate finish. Not much change on day two. 6+ years.
90p   (tasted 2021/5)

Saturday 8 May 2021

Two Bottles From 2012 - Rossese & Barbaresco

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua Galeae, Ka*Mancine
8 years since I visisted Maurizio and tasted the 2012, and more, up in the hills above the charming town of Dolceacqua. 
Today it has a lovely, upliftning nose with notes of white peppered red currants, dried raspberries and gravel. A fine depth and some maturity, Very, very good.
The taste is perky and earthy with notes of red currants, raspberries, cigarette ashes and dry licorice. Medium bodied. Very fine. No hurry to drink any remaining bottles. 
91p   (tasted 2021/05)


2012 Barbaresco, La Ca´Növa
This needs some hours to come around and then it shows aromas of dried cherries, erath, mushrooms and old furniture. Very fine in a old school kind of way.
The taste is structured and almost mature with notes of dried cherries, herbs, rosehips and undergrowth. Some rugged tannins in the finish. I would give this 5 more years in the cellar.
89p   (tasted 2021/05)

Friday 7 May 2021

2020 Dr L Riesling, Loosen Bros


2020 Dr L Riesling, Loosen Bros
Tasting sample. It is always a pleasure to listen to Ernie, although some of his exuberant charm is lost over a zoom meeting. 
Never the less, this young, crisp Riesling, which Ernie calls a signature wine for the estate. jumps out of the glass with notes of grey pears, white currants and rain wet asphalt. Very, very good. 
The taste is fresh and linear with notes of star anise, chrushes stones and grey pears. A very fine acidiy. Maybe a tad short but for a tenner (Euro) this is as good as it gets. 
88p   (tasted 2021/05)



Tuesday 4 May 2021

2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Di Famiglia, Cecchi


2016 Chianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia, Cecchi
A very classic nose with notes of dark cherries, tobacco, Tuscan gravel and fresh Rosemary. A hint of white peppar. Very, very good. Deep and balanced.
The taste is transparent and high with notes of ripe cherries, wet rocks, violets and assorted herbs. A fine acidity. 4+ years. I´m not as enthusiastic as John but this is a bargain ar 20 Euro.
91p   (tasted 2021/05)

Saturday 1 May 2021

2010 Barolo Bricco Boschis, Cavallotto


2010 Barolo Bricco Boschis, Cavallotto
From the moment this was poured until the last drop three days later, this was a beauty. A deep, spicy and somewhat mature nose with notes of hard cherry candy, rosehips, forest floor, tobacco, pine wood and some leathery aromas. Very complex. 
The taste is a textbook example of the proverbial ”iron fist in a velvet glove”. Lovely silky cherry fruit combined with chewy tannins, a minute long finish and a lovely balance. Highly drinkable today but I would give remaining bottles another 4+ years in the cellar.
94p   (tasted 2021/04)