Tuesday 13 August 2013

The Rossese Report - Part II

As I ended Part I with, Maurizio picked me up at Alessandros and drove us up narrow roads to Ka*Mancine cellars, while heavy rain poured down (actually the only rain we got during our stay).
Again, a great visit with fine wines and a charming host!

Maurizio started to open bottles from the 2012 vintage. Since he doesn´t assign the Superiore designation to the wines he can release them earlier. Maurizio started up the winery (again) in 1998. His grandfather was a vigneron but Maurizios father hadn´t continued that line of work, so Maurizio started all over again, but with some good conditions - the vines in Beragna was planted in 1872...
And that was the first bottle  Maurizio opened.

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua Beragna, Ka*Mancine
A cool, fine, young nose with notes of lingonberries, dried strawberries, fresh herbs and some white pepper aromas. Stylish. With air some earthy scents appear. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight but elegant with fine sweet red fruit paired with a refreshing acidity and a long smooth finish. Notes of licorice, cranberries, dried strawberries and gravel. There is a creaminess to the fruit. Really good.
88p   (tasted 2013/07)

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua Galeae, Ka*Mancine
The Galeae shows more depth than the Beragna and somewhat darker fruit. The nose is deep, tight and promising with notes of sweet lingonberries, leather, crushed white peppers, earth and licorice. This is going places. Really fine.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes of lingonberries, raspberries, a hint of dark chocolate (although this wine have seen no wood) and a fine earthy note. The mouth feel is creamy but with a tight core that cleans the mouth effectively. Beautiful acidity. This is a must buy!
91p   (tasted 2013/07)

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Galeae, Ka*Mancine
Actually Maurizio didn´t have any 2010 left of the Galeae, but somehow a 6 bottle pack had been returned, and he was kind enough to open a bottle. A what a wine!
The nose is open, sweet and the aromas is that of a maturing Premier Cru Burgundy, with stunning scents of sweet raspberries, rotten vegetables, dried strawberries and moist undergrowth. There is a hint of crushed white peppers also. Just lovely!
The taste is tight, intense and less mature than on the nose. Lots of intensity and character. Sweet notes of raspberries, mulberries, licorice, dried herbs and gravel. There are some perky tannins in the end. Great wine!
94p   (tasted 2013/0)

Maurizio is experimenting with some oak for a small part of the 2012 Galeae. It will be interesting to see how that will come out.

(2012) Sciakk Rosato, Ka*Mancine
Maurizios Rosato is very fresh on the nose with notes of just ripening raspberries, wild strawberries, sweet minerals and rhubarb. Very salivating.
The taste is young, fresh and lively with notes of sweet lingonberries, dried strawberries, forest floor and dried herbs. A really fresh acidity. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2013/07)

In a Enoteca I found the 2011 vintage of Galeae and curious how Maurizio have handled this more difficult vintage, I bought a bottle.

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Galeae, Ka*Mancine
No problems here! This is actually as good as the 2012. The nose is upfront and fresh with notes of sweet lingonberries, rosemary bushes, cranberries, dried herbs and crushed white peppars. With air some fine earthy aromas unravel. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and elegant yet taut with notes of sweet lingonberries, rosehips, forest floor, dried herbs and white peppers. A very fine acidity. The finish is long, intense and ends with a fine dry twist. This should evolve into a even more stunning wine the upcoming 5-7 years. I just bought a 6-pack for 76 Euro! This wines are tremendous value.
90p   (tasted 2013/07)

The charming Maurizio


  1. I heard in 2011 vintage the Beragna performed better than Galeae.....
    Is because the old vines ?

    Have you tasted the Rossese Migliarina from Rondelli ?

    1. Would love to taste the 11 Beragna to get my own opinion :-)

      No, I haven´t. Should I? :-)

  2. Well I heard Rondelli is doing a good job....

    1. I´ll see if I can get hold of a bottle, althought that is a problem - to find Rossese wines outside Liguria.