Friday 31 August 2018

2016 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Des Lises vs 2016 Syrah, Mullineux

2016 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Des Lises
Both wines needed time to open up, the Crozes more so. When it does it reveals fine notes of violets, iron, ripening blueberries, candle grease, minerals, freeze dried coffee and some peppery aromas. Very young and fine.
The taste is racy and tight with notes of allspice, blueberries, veal meat, violets and earth. Long, mineraly and energetic. Very, very good. Will become great in 5+ years. For 25 Euro, a real bargain. A proof of the 2016 greatness. But - only 10% new oak - too bad, it could, and should, have been (at least) 100%... ;-)
91p   (tasted 2018/08)


2016 Syrah, Mullineux
A different creature, more open, wild and generous. The nose is deep and warm with notes od sweet violets, hand pounded meat, smoke and ripe dark flowers. Very good. Has a broad shouldered refinement and a fine warmth.
The taste is tight, warm and peppery with notes of asphalt, violets, blackberries, earth and Christmas spices. Long and rewarding. Very, very good but doesn´t have the complexity of the Crozes. Same prize though, ca 25 Euro.
88p   (tasted 2018/08)

Saturday 25 August 2018

Drinking Tonight - 1993 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina

The bottle in the background has been stored in a warm place, not drinkable

1993 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
25 years old and fresh as a daisy. Another fine 93, the underrrated vintage, and me being the cape crusader (although lacking a cape) for this vintage, is joyful.
The nose starts of a bit shy but after an hour in the deacnter, things starts to happen. It opens up and reveals fine notes of dried cherries, autumn leaves, dried rosemary, a hint of fresh stables, leather, candle grease and some high strawberry aromas. Still fresh and fine, and gets more juicy by the hour, until the bottle is finished. Really fine.
The taste is tight, dry and yet velvety with just the right amount of resistance in it. Dried cherries, hard cherry candy, leather and a touch of cinnamon makes up the flavours. A fine acidity and soft, but noticably tannins. A fine warmth in the finish. I would have guessed a younger and "better" vintage if this would have been poured blind.
91p   (tasted 2018/08)


Other vintages of Rancia tasted:
1997, 2001, 2006, 2010

2007 - part one
2007 - part two
2007 - part three

Friday 17 August 2018

2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa

Being back to work, I have to comfort me with something nice...

2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
And this bottle is! A deep, spicy, finely tuned nose with lovely notes of ripe blueberries, bay leaves, warm tiles and sweet minerals. A fine earthy aroma. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, sandy and polished with a great acidity and lots of blueberry fruit, topped with notes of fir wood, bakelite and spices. A long, velvety finish. A rather broad shouldered Dolcetto, and a very good one at that. Gotta get me more!
91p   (tasted 2018/08)


Tuesday 14 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 27 & 28 - 1999 Barbaresco Campo Quadro, Punset & 1999 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso

Last bottles of this summers vacation - work starts tomorrow...

1999 Barbaresco Campo Quadro, Punset
A fine, mature, soft nose with notes of forest floor, dried red berries, dry tobacco, balsamic vinegar and dry asphalt. Very nice maturity. A fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is dry and mature with notes of gravel, licorice, leather and red currants. A fine dryness at the end. Perfect for drinking now.
89p   (tasted 2018/08)


1999 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso
A deep, tight, concentrated nose with notes of raspberry licorice, mushrooms, dried flowers and some bonfire scents. Velvety and refined. Some maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is long, steady and complex with notes of hard cherry candy, violets, herbs and mushrooms. Very deep. A lovely warmth. Really fine. Needs 3+ years more.
93p   (tasted 2018/08)

Monday 13 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 26 - 1983 Chablis 1er Cru Momtee De Tonnerre, Bacheroy-Josselin


Soon the summer vacation is over....but there is still time to open some bottles. A mature white Burgundy is never wrong!

1983 Chablis 1er Cru Momtee De Tonnerre, Bacheroy-Josselin
Another fine 83, one of my favourite vintages when it comes to aged white Burgundy. The nose is still tight and sturdy with notes of dried orange peel, sea food shells, birch sap, dry caramel and even a hint of dry coconut. Expressive and still youngish. Very, very good.
The taste reflects the nose with still young (but dried) yellow fruit and additional notes of rust, flint and smoke. The taste is more monolithic than the taste. No hurry to drink this one. A good acidity. A lovely companion to fried salmon balls and vegetables.
89p   (tasted 2018/08)

35 year old sediment

Sunday 12 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 25 - 2010 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Grigio, San Felice


2010 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Grigio, San Felice
Eight years old and still a baby. It needed some serious time in the glass and some vigorous svirling before it reveals notes of ripe black cherries, black olives, Tuscan gravel, ripe flowers and a hint of tobacco. A very fine structure. Lots of promise here.
The taste is tight and finely constructed with notes of dry licorice, tapenade, black cherries and rosemary. Fine, polished tannins. Not any maturity to talk abot, wait at least 6+ years. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2018/08)

Friday 10 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 24 & 25 - 2009 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken, Keller & 2009 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Eugen Müller

Grilled salmon for dinner, with an array of fixings - what to open? Why not a David vs Goliat tasting? Keller vs (for me the unknown) Eugen Müller. Rheinhessen vs Pfalz.

And the result...?

2009 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken, Keller
A deep, rocky, salty nose with notes of dried lavender honey, pears, cap gun smoke, touch of violets and lots of chrushed minerals. Very deep and fine. A tad restrained.
The taste is young, forceful and driven with notes of dried lemons, dried kiwi, chrushed rocks and a hint of salty licorice. Very acidic at the end. A tad bitter at the very end. Very, very good, although not as great as last time.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)



2009 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Eugen Müller
A young, handsome, refined nose with notes of grapefruit, fennel seed, slate and dried flowers. Juicy and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of chalk, grilled lemons, white peach and dried flowers. A fine acidity at the end. Very fine.
91p   (tasted 2018/08)

Two different wines - Keller more intense and forceful but the bitter note at the end of the finish lets me down a bit, while the Müller charms me with outgoing fruit and a fine balance. Two very fine dry Rieslings.


Wednesday 8 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 23 - 1986 Château De La Riviére

I was very impressed with this wine three years ago. I haven´t opened a bottle since then, but now was the time.

1986 Château de la Riviére
Not as great as last time - this bottle anyway - but a really fine mature Bordeaux. The nose is mature and refined with notes of autumn leaves, dried black currants, graphite and lead pencil shavings. Very traditional and very fine.
The taste is cool, round and mature with notes of earth, leather, dried black currants, salmiak and gravel. A medium long, dry finish. This bottle is fully mature but will go on for 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/08)


Sunday 5 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 22 - 1997 Ilusion, Gaja

Opened a mature (?) bottle the other day from Gaja before heading out to dinner in the warm Visby night.
But what is it? What does Ilusion contains? Google comes up short and when posting the image on IG with the same question, I get two answers - Freisa.
Freisa? I am not a big fan of young Freisa (regardless if it is from Mascarello, Vajra or someone else) but apparently if you cellar it for 20 years...

1997 Ilusion, Gaja
I was thinking a blend of Cabernet and Nebbiolo when I sniffed and drank it - the nose is deep, mature and velvety with notes of dried black currants, undergrowth, rosehip and leather. A fine sweetness to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is mature, warm and finely textured with notes of autumn leaves, dried raspberries, warm tiles and earth. A long, soft yet concentrated finish. Drinking perfectly now.
90p   (tasted 2018/08)


Friday 3 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 20 & 21 - 1990 Barolo Riserva De Gracia Cuvée, Manzone & 2004 Barolo Vigna Cucco, Cascina Cucco

Two bottles of Barolo on a Friday night, seems about right!

1990 Barolo Riserva de Gracia Cuvée, Manzone
This 28 year old Barolo shows its age in the shape of a damp forest, canned mushrooms, dry tobacco, old licorice and meat stock. But a fine depth and a aged complexity.
The taste is mature, warm and dry with notes of sweet/sour cherries, dry tobacco, violets and forest floor. A round, generous finish. Soft tannins, Fully mature, and maybe a tad so.
89p   (tasted 2018/08)


2004 Barolo Vigna Cucco, Cascina Cucco
A deep, velvety, concentrated nose with notes of ripe cherries, rose petals en masse, salt licorice, earth and blue skiwax. Very fine. Power, refinement and balance. A hint of maturity. Gorgeous.
The taste is polished, structured and finely tuned with notes of hard cherry candy, violets, rosehip, paint and minerals. Very long and lovely. Firm tannins at the end gives backbone. Evolves all evening. Very, very fine. 5+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/08)

Vacation Wines - No 19 -2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, Bachelet-Monnet


2008  Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, Bachelet-Monnet
I was eager for some fine Chardonnay and opened this bottle to go along some salmon and vegetables. It worked out fine :-)
The nose is deep and smoky with notes of lime cream, yellow plums, warm hayand chrushed rocks. Deep and fine. A hint of maturity.
The taste is structured and racy with notes of lime, starfruit, yellow apples and lots of dry minerals. The finish is long and spiked with a high acidity content. Really fine. Salivating. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/08)


Wednesday 1 August 2018

Vacation Wines - No 18 - 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, La Gerla


2007 Brunello di Montalcino, La Gerla
It has been a couple of years since I last opened a bottle of this Brunello. It is now in a fine drinking mode and it shifts personality from day one to day two.
When popped and poured, and during the first evening, its shows of a tight, warm nose with notes of vanilla powdered black cherries, Tuscan gravel and rosemary. A bit restrained. On day two it has blossomed nicely, with lovely additional notes of fresh stables, Finnish licorice and chrushed rocks. Deeper and with more refinement on day two.
On day one this is a big mouthful of hedonistic Brunello fruit, with inky black cherries, tar, fried rosemary and sweet minerals. Very juicy and fine. On day two it has taken on the character of the nose on day one, more restrained and tight. The finish is long and intense. Overall a very fine Brunello for drinking now and the coming 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/07)