Saturday 22 September 2018

One Day Of Trade Tastings - Vingruppen

One day, two weeks ago - three trade tastings - a total of 137 wines tasted - life is rough...

With this amount of wines tasted, I just highlight those wines that made the utmost impression on my taste buds. Since I only spent a minute of two with each wine I give an approximate score.

Third and last stop  - Vingruppen  (53 wines tasted)

The possibility to taste 400+ wines....where to begin? And end!?

Ah well, I started with some fine Chardonnay - the 2015 Savigny Les Beaunes Les Guettes, Louis Jadot sports a mineral laden nose with ripe lemons and steel. The taste is racy and refined with oyster shells, lemon cream and smoke. Really fine (~92p). Also from 2015 and Louis Jadot the Meursault Les Genevrieres has a deep, creamy, rich nose and a minute long, multi layered finish (~94p).
Two beauties from Lucien le Moine followed suit, the 2015 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres is pure and fresh with notes of peach and sandelwood, the taste is long, refined and complex (~94p). The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee is a beauty with a cool, steely, handsome nose and a long, long, intense finish with everything in place. Stunning (~96p).

More Chardonnay from around the globe - 2014 Chardonnay, Waterford Estate has a deep, concentrated nose with sweet lime and fried nuts. The taste is structured with a fine acidity (~91p). Always a great wine, the Haytesbury Chardonnay from Vasse Felix is no exception in the 2015 vintage - gorgeous and refined on the nose and structured and intense on the palate makes up a treat of a wine (~93p).

From California comes a tasty trio - 2015 Chardonnay, Mayacamas has an open, ripe nose with lemon cream, fudge and minerals and a long lasting taste with sour/sweet lemons and smoke (~92p). Two bottles from Sandhi impressed, the 2015 Rita´s Crown Chardonnay is deep and refined with notes of grilled lemons, dried flowers and a fine acidity (~92p). The 2015 Bentrock Chardonnay is a beauty with a complex nose with notes of white currants, dry fudge and smoke and a steely, crisp taste with a very fine structure (~95p).

A couple of fine red Burgundies followed - the 2014 Côte-de-Nuits Villages, Domaine Philippe Livera has a light, haunting nose of ripe lingonberries and dried forest raspberries and a pure, racy taste (~91p).
The 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte, Domaine Perrot-Minot shows a deep, meaty, somewhat mature nose and a silky, focused taste (~93p). The 2011 Clos Saint Denis, Lucien le Moine hit my sweet spots, with a gorgeous, upliftning red berry scented nose and a finish that goes on for over a minute, like drinking silk (~94p).

The 2010 Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde La Chatillonne, Vidal-Fleury is beaming with restrained power and gorgeous peppery blueberry fruit (~95p).
Whenever I taste the La-La´s from Guigal I am always in awe over the quality, charm and how lip smacking good they are. No exceptions this time, the 2013 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne is a handsome brute with lovely perfumed fruit and a two minute long finish, one for the cellar (~97p). The 2011 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline with its 15% Viognier (the only good use of Viognier...) has a charming, flowery nose and a velvety yet structured taste that last and last and last (~96p).

Lastly, some heany hitters from California - the 2012 Estate Cuvée, Kapcsandy wins me over with its balance, focus and intensity, lots of fruit and power here but its wrapped in a stunning package (~95p). I have never tasted anything from Notre Vin and its 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is everything I want in a Cali Cabernet, a restrained ripeness, balance and sheer drinkability (~93p). Lastly, the 2012 Proprietary Red, Blankiet shows of a large scaled, ripe nose (verging on too much for poor little me) with sweet black currants, graphite and expensive oak. The taste is big and structured and deliveries a long lasting, impressive impression (~94p).

Friday 21 September 2018

Friday Dinner Barolo - 2004 Barolo Lazzarito, Vietti

I pulled this one from the cellar, imagining it to be at least semi mature. Wrong!

2004 Barolo Lazzarito, Vietti
The nose doesn´t really open up until it has had a couple of hours in the decanter and the glass. But then it delievers lots of pleasure in the shape of cooked rowan berries, candle grease, dried raspberries, dark violets and some rose petals in the background. Has a low keyed intensity to it. Very deep and very fine. A very fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is tight and structured with a just a smidgeon of maturity with notes of hard cherry candy, rosehips, chrushed rocks, fir wood, sweet tobacco and ink. Very long and intense. Lovely tannins, which make a strong presence in the finish. I will wait at least 6 years before opening another bottle. This is great stuff in the making.
94p   (tasted 2018/09)

Thursday 20 September 2018

2001 Rioja Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta

2001 Rioja Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta
Always nice to open a bottle from one of my favourite producers when it comes to old school Rioja. And the 2001 is no exception. The nose soars from the glass with notes of overripe strawberries, an old chestnut cabinet, some VA, a hint of wet dog, leather and some dry vanilla. Intoxicating. Very, very good. A lovely maturity.
The taste is soft yet intense with a high acidity and notes of cranberries, dried strawberries, a dried up cherry clafoutis, leather and cigarette ashes. A fine dryness at the end. Still drinking beautifully, this will keep for 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/09)

Saturday 15 September 2018

Two Fine Nebbiolo´s From Valtellina

The best Nebbiolo´s in the world comes from the Langhe - nuff said. But - there is really fine Nebbiolo´s grown outside the Langhe which demands serious interest - one of those places is Valtellina.
I have had some nice experience of older bottles from here, for example these two bottles from The Greatest Vintage ever.
This producer is new for me and I was really impressed. Info here.

2015 Costa Bassa, Sandro Fay
The Costa Bassa comes from two vineyards, the estate calls it its "classic wine". It has a high, ligth, fresh nose with notes of lingonberries, a hint of strawberries, paint, bakelite and a some light smoky aromas. Very good in a light, fragrant style.
The taste is light and elegant with notes of dried raspberries, some asphalt, lingonberries and chrushed rocks. Finely tuned and verging on anemic. A fine acidity. I would guess this will perform even better in 3-5 years time. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/09)

2015 Cà Moréi, Sandro Fay
Ooooh boy, what a wine! Given this blind I would have guessed a great vintage of Acclivi from Burlotto. The nose is refined, high and energetic with notes of incense, dried strawberries, candle grease, light smoke and paint. Just lovely.
The taste is young, dry, focused and fine with notes of lingonberry infused licorice, Christmas spices, chrushed rocks and bakelite. The tannins have been polished with the finest cloth. Long and very lingering. This is some stunning juice. 6+ years. For 34 Euro, this is a no brainer, fill up the cellar!
94p   (tasted 2018/09)

Wednesday 12 September 2018

One Day Of Trade Tastings - Second Stop - Cask & Moestue

One day last week - three trade tastings - a total of 137 wines tasted - life is rough...

With this amount of wines tasted, I just highlight those wines that made the utmost impression on my taste buds. Since I only spent a minute of two with each wine I give an approximate score.

Next up - Cask & Moestue  (46 wines tasted)

The whites - 2015 Saint Romain, Domaine Matrot demonstrate that fine white Burgundy can be had without paying and arm and a leg - peach, lemon and spices on the nose and a tight, tuned taste with a fine acidity (~91p).
Two more bottles of Chablis caught my attention, this time from N&G Fèvre, the 2016 Chablis sports a chalky nose with birch leaves and lemon. The taste is elastic, spicy and chalky. For 19 Euro, this is a steal (~90p). The big sister in the shape of 2016 Chablis Fourchaume is steely and smoky on the nose while the taste is deep, racy and pure (~92p).

On to the reds - the 2015 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin Leroux shows a ligthly meaty, seedy nose with a fine warmth and a cool, light on its feet but with character and fine Pinot fruit (~89p).
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis, Arlaud has a deep, smoky nose with dried raspberries and forst floor. The taste is solid and fine with fine fruit and a long, smoky finish (~91p). Another 2015, the Gevrey-Chambertin from Benjamin Leroux offers up a luscious nose with ripe raspberries, root vegetables and mushrooms, while the taste is long, tight and promising (~91p).

Changing vintages, the 2013 Nuits-St-Georges Aux Murgers, Sylvie Cathiard carry a hefty pricetag but the quality is there, a deep, expressive, multi layered nose and a refined, noble, lingering finish (~93p). Lastly of the Burgundies, the 2014 Volnay Champans, Marquis d´Angerville offers up a elegant, low keyed yet intense nose and a focused, linear, red currants and forest floot taste (~92p).

Of to Italy! From G.D. Vajra, the 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo has a fine earthy, spicy nose with purity and a structured taste with silky tannins (~89p). The 2013 Langhe Freisa Kyé is possibly the best Freisa I have tasted, Christmas spices, paint and mushrooms on the nose and stern but juicy tannins in the fine finish (~89p).
The 2010 Barbaresco Vanotu, Pelissero shows some sign of maturity with fine dried fruit, autumn leaves and some leathary aromas. The taste is medium bodied with polished tannins and fine red fruit (~90p).

Two bottles from San Felice got me going. The 2008 Pugnitello (a grape that one doesn´t come over that often) has a really fine sweetness to the red fruit that dominates with additional notes of dusty earth, leather and a hint of oak. A tight, concentrated taste that seems light and focused. Very fine (~92p).
The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Il Quercione has a large scaled nose with notes of expensive tobacco, ripe cherries and old, worn leather. The taste is mouth coating with notes of sweet/sour cherries, cigarr smoke, asphalt and hot gravel. Long and impressive (~92p).

Monday 10 September 2018

Election Barolo - 1997 Barolo Pajana, Domenico Clerico

Watching the election unfold last night needed a fine bottle of wine and this perennial favourite of mine did the trick.

1997 Barolo Pajana, Domenico Clerico
Popped and poured and right out of the gate this gives pure pleasure on the nose - sweet/sour cherries, raspberry licorice, incense, rosehips and that intoxicating scent of a warm Langhe earth. Evolves nicely over the evening and gets fatter and deeper with air.
The taste is velvety yet with a firm core and lots of sweet dried black fruit, melted tannins and fine notes of licorice, dried raspberries, warm tiles, smoke and dry leather. A long, balanced finish. I would say fully mature but it will keep on this level for 6+ years. Last time poured it was corked so it was nice to drink a fine bottle.
93p   (tasted 2018/09)

Sunday 9 September 2018

One Day Of Trade Tastings - First Stop - Divine

One day this week - three trade tastings - a total of 137 wines tasted - life is rough...

With this amount of wines tasted, I just highlight those wines that made the utmost impression on my taste buds. Since I only spent a minute of two with each wine I give an aprroximate score.

First of - Divine (38 wines tasted)

Of the whites, the 2016 Offspring, Blankbottle with a idiosyncratic blend of Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling shows of a highly individual nose and a fresh, flavourful taste (~91p). On to Burgundy where the 2016 Bourgogne Blanc Champ Perrier, Tessier displayes a deep, buttery nose and a refined, lingering taste (~91p).
Two bottles from Séguinot-Bordet wowed me - the 2017 Chablis with rocks, salt and a crispy acidity, a bargain for 22 Euro, (~90p) and its big sister, the 2017 Chablis Fourchaume with an old school, backwards, impressive citrus fruit and chrushed rocks (~92p).

Among the reds, the 2016 Bourgogne, Terres Dorées talked to me with an old style, animal, "dirty" Pinot voice (~89p). The 2014 Château Charmail is a charming, classic Bordeaux for near term drinking and a very good drinking at that! (~90p),
From Il Poggione, the 2016 Rosso is a cool, refined creature with ease and focus (~89p) while the 2013 Brunello is deeper, darker and denser (~91p).

Divine usually have some of their producers present at these tasting and I got stuck at the Vite Colte table. Strange, since they are from Piedmont...
Vite Colte is a new cooperative, in that sense that they have taken the best growers from the existing cooperative Terredavino and started a new company (in 2016). They have 180 growers and 300 ha of land. I was impressed with the lineup.

Arneis! I love Arneis and the 2017 Roero Arneis Villata is no exception - crisp, flowery and herbal (~88p). The 2016 Chardonnay Fosche has a cool honeydew melon nose and a stony, fresh taste (~88p).
The 2017 Barbera Rosso Fuoco is something to buy by the case. A juicy, herbal nose with ripe lingonberries and some dark raspberries tossed in, and a fresh, light yet focused taste. A stunner for 16 Euro (~90p).
Three Nebbiolo´s were poured by Gregorio. The 2015 Langhe Nebbiolo La Malora (with 15% Barbera) shows a fine, earthy nose with mushrooms, violets and dried cherries and a long, dry taste with fine tannins (~91p). Moving up the ladder, the 2013 Barolo Essenze di Barolo display a classic tar & rose nose and a refined taste with a healthy dose of fine grained tannins (~92p). What an elegance the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Spezie displays! 5 spices, dried flowers, paint and dried cherries makes up the nose and the palate is refined, long and pure. Really fine. (~93p).

To finish my first tasting of the day, some heavy hitters were poured by Gunnar.  From magmum no less, the 2009 Fe Ciega Pinot Noir, Ojai presents a fine tuned, somewhat mature nose with forest floor, raspberries and some balsamic scents. The taste is creamy and medium bodied with lovely fruit and balance (~94p).
Two great Cabs from Spottswoode followed, the 2014 Lyndenhurst has a tight, intense nose with fine black currant fruit and some spicy, minty touches. The taste is concentrated yet refined with polished tannins and a lingering finish (~92p). The 2014 Estate is all that the Lyndenhurst is but everything cranked up to eleven, but so balanced and so fine (~94p).
The 2015 Syrah, Lilian is a stunner! Sweet violets, chrushed white pepper, veal stock and a hint, just the tiniest hint (but it brings complexity) of VA. Sooo deep. The taste is just brilliant in its purity, concentration and beauty. A must buy! (~97p). Lastly, the 2015 Old Bastard, Kaesler shows a ripe, fruity, forward nose with a long, warm, juicy taste. Big, extrovert and really enjoyable (~92p).

Saturday 8 September 2018

Another Rancia Bites The Dust

2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
A large scaled, open, yummy nose that would scare all I-don´t-like-new-oak-hipsters far away. Muscovado cooked ripe cherries with a hint of vanilla, dark chocolate, warm tiles and fried rosemary. Deep and outgoing. I´m liking it!
The taste is tighter than the nose indicate, with notes of ripe cherries, dark blueberries, sundried tomatoes, dried herbs and warm gravel. Long and dry, with a hint of scorched earth at the end. A tad marked by the vintage, but I will drink this any day, for the coming 10 years.
91p   (tasted 2018/09)

Other vintages tasted recently:
1993 Rancia
1997, 2001, 2006 & 2010 Rancia

Monday 3 September 2018

2012 Chablis Grand Cru Le Vaudésirs, Domaine Long-Depaquit

2012 Chablis Grand Cru Le Vaudésirs, Domaine Long-Depaquit
A long time favourite Chablis producer of mine, this 6 year old Grand Cru opens quite restrained and needed some time in the glass to reveal notes of oyster shells, flint, ripening yellow apples, cuccumber and gravel. Very fine. Needs time.
The taste is fresh, racy and stony with notes of lime peel, slate, white currants, dry grass and minerals. A fine, long, complex finish. Will turn out great if you leave it in the cellar for 6+ years. I will.
92p   (tasted 2018/09)

Sunday 2 September 2018

A Vertical Of Puligny-Montrachet Clos De La Mouchere, Henri Boillot / 1996 - 2012

My friend S invited to a exciting tasting of Clos de la Mouchere, this almost 4 ha Monople in the Premier Cru area of Les Perrieres (this Monopole making up almost half of Les Perrieres).

I have always loved this wine, with found memories of bottles from the mid 80´s and early 90´s, but it has been a while since I tasted it, the last being the 2013, drunk at the one of the best fish restaurants in Sweden.

On to this evenings tasting!

2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube G.G., Schäfer-Fröhlich
We started with some fine Italian delicatessen and two blind bottles. The first has a fresh, upfront nose with notes of grass, grey pears, white peppers and iron. Young and pure.
The taste is cool and tight wiht notes of earth, pears, steel and dried lemons. A long, structured finish with a high acidity and a fine focus. Still young at ten years of age.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)

2015 Furmint Hold-Völgy, Demeter Zoltán
This was no fun. Foursquare with notes of platic, dry bamd-aid, potatoe water and dried mushrooms. And where is the fruit?
The taste is cool, foursquare with high acidity and dry, dry yellow fruit. For the masochist wine drinker, not for me.
78p   (tasted 2018/08)

Flight One
1996 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
The oldie in the lineup but a real goodie. The nose is deep and mature with notes of dry fudge, old wrinkled red apples, dried flowers and minerals. Fully mature, laid back and lovely.
The taste is like a liquid dry Tarte Tatin with additional notes of moist earth, birch sap, grass and minerals. Long and intense. The first glass that got empty...
93p   (tasted 2018/08)

2002 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A deep, powerful, smoky, intense nose with notes of peach, matchbox, sweet minerals, bee wax and white currants. Very complex and fine. Still very young.
The taste is high and pure with notes of oranges, lemon meringue, pears and lots of chalky notes. Very, very long. Still needs 4+ years. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2018/08)

2008 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A favourite (young) vintage of mine when in comes to white Burgundy. This bottle is a tad low keyed compared to previous bottles, with notes of white flowers, chalk, lime ice cream and minerals. A light, airy touch.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of white peach, lemon peel, grapefruit and lots of chalk. Backwards. A high acidity. Has gone into a shell, wait 8+ years. But there is lots of potential here.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)

2007 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
The 07 sports a cool, fresh nose with notes of almond paste, yellow apples, white currants and matchbox. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with a hint of maturity and notes of dry lemoncello, cap gun smoke, dried flowers and grass. A long, intense finish. Drinking perfectly now and the coming 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)

Flight Two
2009 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A high, pure, intense nose with a wonderful refinement to it and notes of white currants, birch leaves, wet asphalt, cap gun smoke and sweet minerals. Just lovely.
The taste is long and finely tuned with notes of white currants, grey pears, wet stones and some smoky notes. A high, elegant acidity. On top of its game and will stay there for 6+ years. A stunner.
94p   (tasted 2018/08)

2010 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
The 2010 is a beauty, with a deep, racy, smoky nose with notes of lemon cream, sweet green peas, freshly cut grass, dry fudge and chrushed rocks. Concentrated and fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of lime, white currants, grass and sweet minerals. Very long, very intense and very fine. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/08)

2012 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A warm elegance on the nose, with notes of ripe limes, melted butter, chalk and a hint of mosquito repellent. Very young.
The taste is deep and concentrated with a lot going on, but not really harmonious yet. Sweet fruit, a good acidity and a fine lenght, but needs to knit it all together. Wait 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/08)

2011 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A high, intense nose with notes of ripe lemons, pears, chalk and some interesting plastic scents. Very, very good. Polished and fine.
The taste is tight and charming with notes of white currants, grey pears, cap gun smoke and birch leaves. A very long finish with a cleansing acidity. Very, very good. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)