Saturday 29 February 2020

2015 Château Charmail

2015 Château Charmail
When the subject of Bordeaux is brought up it takes about five minutes before the current tariffs comes up. And when I´m in the mood I can join the choir that reminice over past times when "we bought Premier Cru´s for 50 Euro a bottle"...
But - the 1855 classification only stands for about 3% of the total production of red wines in Bordeaux. There are lots of interesting wines to taste and buy. Some for a song. Like this one. 20 Euro.
The nose is classic in a modern sense, with notes of graphite, black currants (although Merlot is the majority grape), plums, tobacco and sage. Delicate and fine. A hint of maturity.
The taste is medium bodied with a fine dryness and notes of plums, tobacco, dark chocolate and fresh herbs. A tad short but with with a meatloaf with a creamsauce cooked on oxtails, it was a great companion. Info here.
88p   (tasted 2020/02)

Thursday 27 February 2020

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To Marengo & Luigi Pira

It is always a treat - by now like coming home - to visit Jenny, Marco, Tatiana and Gianpaolo. And the wines! Can´t wait to go back.

Disclaimer - the importer of Marengo and Luigi Pira to Sweden (Origo Wines) are friends of mine and cofounders of the illustrious Barolo Boys. I however, have no financial interests in these wines, I just call them as I see them.


2018 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Pugnane
A fine, open nose with notes of smoky raspberries, earth and with a very fine warmth.
The taste is spicy and direct with notes of raspberry licorice, scorched earth and bonfire. Long and fine.
88p   (tasted 2020/01)

2018 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore
Always a treat, the Valmaggiore offers up a deep, iron filled nose with notes of licorice, red and black cherries and gravel. Very fine.
The taste is tight and complex with notes of dried cherries, licorice and dark flowers. Very long and elegant. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo
A fine, floral nose with notes of red cherries, rosehips and dry licorice. A low key elegance.
The taste is tight and balanced with notes of red cherries, warm sand and rosehips. Silky tannins. Very, very good. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
A high, pure nose with notes of cranberries, wild strawberries and earth. Very fine.
The taste is cool and refined with notes of dried strawberries, incense and minerals. A long, intense finish. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Brunate
A deep, balanced nose with notes of ripe strawberries, earth and licorice. Some mushroom notes after a while. Really fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of rosehips, ripe red cherries, forest floor and a hint of tobacco. A very long, crisp finish. Lovely. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2020/01)

2015 Barolo Riserva Brunate
There are 700 bottles (699 now...) of this nectar and I want them all! A gorgeously complex nose with notes of dark roses, hard cherry candy, trumpet mushrooms and iron. A lovely purity.
The taste is seamless and focused with notes of black cherries, rosehips, dried flowers and violets. Perfectly polished tannins. Great wine. 7+ years.
97p   (tasted 2020/01)

Luigi Pira

2019 Dolcetto d´Alba
A cool, stern nose with notes of blueberries, iron and violets. Strict and fine.
The taste is earthy and iron filled with notes of plums and spices. A very fine structure. A real Serralunga Dolcetto. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2020/01)

2018 Dolcetto d´Alba
Gianpaolo opened the 2018 for comparison. This has a more backward, earthy nose with herbs and red currants.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of red currants, iron, herbs violets. Very, very good but tighter than the 19.
89p   (tasted 2020/01)

2018 Barbera d´Alba Superiore
A fine, open, fruity nose with notes of raspberries, earth and bonfire. Some leathary aromas. Very, very good.
The taste is open and fresh with spicy, juicy raspberries and additional notes of bonfire, scorched earth and a hint of mint. A fine dryness in the finish. A stunning Barbera.
93p   (tasted 2020/01)

2018 Langhe Nebbiolo
A cool dry nose with notes of paint, dried up cherry jam and iron. Some flowery elements after a while. Really good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of red cherries, iron and violets. Sturdy but finely polished tannins. 3+ years.
91p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Serralunga
The first vintage where grapes from the new 1 ha vineyard in Sorano is added to the blend. The nose is classic Serralunga with notes of cool red cherries, violets, iron and a hint of band aid. Complex and fine.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of rosehips, cranberries, iron and a hint of leather. Silky tannins. Balanced and fine. Very, very good. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Margheria
Both the Margheria and Marenca is stellar examples of Gianpaolo´s winemaking. The Margheria opens with a deep, refined nose with notes of cherry jam, smoke, rosehips and red ski wax. Complex and fine.
The taste is very pure and multi layered with notes of dried strawberries, minerals, dry licorice and fresh mushrooms. Silky tannins. Very long and rewarding. Lovely. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Marenca
The Marenca is more structured and restrained on the nose but with some swirling fine aromas of red beets, sand, iron and dry tobacco emerges from the glass. Very, very deep. Needs time.
The taste is taut and concentrated with notes of iron, red currants, hard cherry candy and earth. Very, very long. Some broad shouldered tannins. For the long haul. 10+ years.
95p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Vigna Rionda
Virtually perfect. I have always loved the earlier vintages of Vigna Rionda, but the 2016 takes it to another level. When tasting perfect wines (and that´s how I can tell that they are, at least for my palate) is when I have trouble writing down my impressions,, it becomes only lonely adjectives. Give this 8+ years to achieve that last point.
99p   (tasted 2020/01)

2015 Barolo Margheria
When asked if we would like to taste the 15 Margheria and Marenca, we said ok...
Tasted twice before, it has now tighten up somewhat but the core of the wine is the same. A pleasure to taste. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2020/01)

2015 Barolo Marenca
Also tasted twice, see link above, but this on the other hand had opened up somewhat with a lovely warmth and complex notes of asphalt, cherry jam and iron. Great. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2020/01)

2005 Barolo Vigna Rionda
By now Gianpaolo got feeling and went for more bottles. These were tasted blind. The first shows a deep, dry, complex nose with notes of dried cherries, sweet tobacco, earth and bonfire smoke. Some maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with some maturity and notes of dry licorice, asphalt, rosehips and iron. The tannins are a bit more rugged than the wines from 15 or 16. Very fine. I guessed a 08 Marenca...
93p   (tasted 2020/01)

2001 Barolo Margheria
Next bottle displays a a lovely mature nose with notes of scorched earth, dried up cherry jam, leather, raisins and some dog fur for complexity. Old school and fine.
The taste is silky and multi layered with notes of sugared coffee, forest floor, dried flowers and tobacco. The tannins have melted into the wine in a fine way. I guessed it to be a 96. Maybe a bit precocious but very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2020/01)

Wednesday 26 February 2020

2012 Barolo Riserva Lazzarito, Ettore Germano

2012 Barolo Riserva Lazzarito, Ettore Germano
I tasted this gem at the estate six months ago. Today the nose is a bit more restrained and red fruit driven, with fine notes of hard cherry candy, cement, Langhe earth and a hint of tar. Deep and very fine.
The taste is structured and racy with notes of rowan-berries, dried mushrooms, tobacco and sweet minerals. Very long, balanced and taut. Will need another 5+ years in the cellar. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2020/02)

Saturday 22 February 2020

1996 Barolo, Cascina Adelaide & 1996 Barolo Vigna Rué, Davide Germano

1996 Barolo, Cascina Adelaide
I visited this estate recently, so it was fun to open a mature bottle. Mature yes, but still with lots of life. The nose, with some air, displays notes of dried cherries, orange peel, coffee grounds and lots of mushrooms. Very, very good.
The taste is mature, warm, with a tight character and notes of dark cherries, violets, dried mushrooms and undergrowth. A fine dryness at the end.
88p   (tasted 2020/02)

1996 Barolo Vigna Rué, Casina S. Martino/Davide Germano
The estate is called Angelo Germano now. A high, energetic nose with notes of sour/sweet cherries, rosehips, juniper berries and mustard seeds. Very deep and complex. Lovely.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of sour cherries, rosehips, old tobacco, dried flowers and some rubbery notes. Very interesting and fine. Long. Perfectly mature, as many 96 are by now.
The Germano family is the only producer of Rué, a 8,5 ha large MGA in Barolo.
92p   (tasted 2020/02)

Tuesday 18 February 2020

2016 Barolo At Grandi Langhe

Two days in Alba at Grandi Langhe, tasting the 2016 Baroli, a great experience! A total of 176 wines tasted, of which 112 were a 2016 Baroli (also some 2015, 2013 and 2014 Riserva and some Dolcetto´s).
There will be a separat post on my take on the 2016 Barolo vintage. But for now, here are the wines tasted at Grandi Langhe (with 13 wines added, tasted at the estates of  Cascina AdelaideAldo Conterno, Luigi Pira and Marengo (notes will be published soon)).

2016 Barolo Romirasco, Aldo Conterno
2016 Barolo Vigna Rionda, Luigi Pira

2016 Barolo Cicala, Aldo Conterno
2016 Barolo Serra, Giovanni Rosso

2016 Barolo Colonnello, Aldo Conterno
2016 Barolo Bussia Vigna Pianpolvere, Chionetti
2016 Barolo Badarina, Bruna Grimaldi
2016 Barolo Coste & Bricco, Ascheri
2016 Barolo Arborina, Marco Curto
2016 Barolo Cerretta, Giovanni Rosso
2016 Barolo Margheria, Massolino
2016 Barolo Ornato, Palladino
2016 Barolo Castello, ArnaldoRivera
2016 Barolo Castelletto, Castello di Perno
2016 Barolo Cannubi, Francesco Rinaldi
2016 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, Vietti
2016 Barolo Brunate, Marengo
2016 Barolo Margheria, Luigi Pira
2016 Barolo Marenca, Luigi Pira

2016 Barolo Baudana, Cascina Adelaide
2016 Barolo Fossati, Cascina Adelaide
2016 Barolo Preda, Cascina Adelaide
2016 Barolo Bricco San Pietro, Anna Maria Abbona
2016 Barolo Parussi, Chionetti
2016 Barolo Bricco Ambrogia, Bruna Grimaldi
2016 Barolo Ascheri, Ascheri
2016 Barolo Sorano, Ascheri
2016 Barolo La Serra, Agostino Bosco
2016 Barolo R.G., Carlo Revello
2016 Barolo, Castello di Verduno
2016 Barolo Bricco Manescotto, Giovanni Corino
2016 Barolo del Commune di Barolo, Crissante Alessandria
2016 Barolo Capalot, Crissante Alessandria
2016 Barolo La Foia. Marco Curto
2016 Barolo Rocche Rivera Scarrone, Luigi Oddero
2016 Barolo Lazzarito, Fontanafredda
2016 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Franco Molino
2016 Barolo Gianetto, Garesio
2016 Barolo Marassio, Giulia Negri
2016 Barolo, Massolino
2016 Barolo Parussi, Massolino
2016 Barolo La Serra, Mauro Molino
2016 Barolo Conca, Mauro Molino
2016 Barolo Parafada, Palladino
2016 Barolo Lazzarito, Gianni Gagliardo
2016 Barolo del Commune di La Morra, Marcarini
2016 Barolo La Serra, Marcarini
2016 Barolo La Serra, Reverdito
2016 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Rocche Costamagna
2016 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d´Alba, Tenuta Cucco
2016 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d´Alba, Luigi Vico
2016 Barolo Prapò, Luigi Vico
2016 Barolo, Gianfranco Alessandria
2016 Barolo San Giovanni, Gianfranco Alessandria
2016 Barolo Bussia, Amalia
2016 Barolo Ravera, ArnaldoRivera
2016 Barolo Brunella, Boroli
2016 Barolo Villero, Boroli
2016 Barolo Ravera, Cagliero
2016 Barolo Bricco San Pietro, Cascina Sòt
2016 Barolo Cannubi, Giacomo Fenocchio
2016 Barolo Villero, Giacomo Fenocchio
2016 Barolo Bussia, Giacomo Fenocchio
2016 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, G.D. Vajra
2016 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, Monchiero
2016 Barolo Ornato, Pio Cesare
2016 Barolo Brunate, Francesco Rinaldi
2016 Barolo del Comune del Barolo, Scarzello
2016 Barolo Sarmassa, Scarzello
2016 Barolo Barolo di Barolo, Virna Borgogno
2016 Barolo Cannubi, Virna Borgogno
2016 Barolo Sarmassa, Virna Borgogno
2016 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, Marengo
2016 Barolo Serralunga, Luigi Pira

2016 Barolo Cannubi, Cascina Adelaide
2016 Barolo Pernanno, Cascina Adelaide
2016 Barolo, Marziano Abbona
2016 Barolo Castiglione Falletto, Anna Maria Abbona
2016 Barolo Sorano, Claudio Alario
2016 Barolo Camilla, Bruna Grimaldi
2016 Barolo, Ascheri
2016 Barolo Margheria, Franco Boasso
2016 Barolo Neirane, Agostino Bosco
2016 Barolo, Carlo Revello
2016 Barolo, Giovanni Corino
2016 Barolo Giachini, Giovanni Corino
2016 Barolo Luigi Oddero
2016 Barolo La Rosa, Fontanafredda
2016 Barolo Paiagallo, Fontanafredda
2016 Barolo del Commune di Serralunga d´Alba, Garesio
2016 Barolo La Tartufaia, Giulia Negri
2016 Barolo, Mauro Molino
2016 Barolo Gallinotto, Mauro Molino
2016 Barolo Castelletto, Gianni Gagliardo
2016 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Ratti
2016 Barolo Bricco Cogni, Reverdito
2016 Barolo Badarina, Reverdito
2016 Barolo La Serra, Martini Voerzio
2016 Barolo Le Coste di Monforte, Amalia
2016 Barolo Monvigliero, ArnaldoRivera
2016 Barolo Sarmassa, Bergadano
2016 Barolo Terlo, Cagliero
2016 Barolo, Cascina Sòt
2016 Barolo, Castello di Perno
2016 Barolo Castellero, Giacomo Fenocchio
2016 Barolo Villero, Livia Fontana
2016 Barolo, Pio Cesare
2016 Barolo Castiglione, Vietti
2016 Barolo, Marengo

2016 Barolo Le Coste di Monforte, Pecchenino
2016 Barolo Rive Rocca, Claudio Alario
2016 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga, Franco Boasso
2016 Barolo del Comune di Monforte d´Alba, Gemma
2016 Barolo del Commune di Serralunga d´Alba, Gemma
2016 Barolo Serradenari, Giulia Negri
2016 Barolo, Palladino
2016 Barolo, Gianni Gagliardo
2016 Barolo Marcenasco, Ratti
2016 Barolo Conca, Ratti
2016 Barolo Undicicomuni, ArnaldoRivera
2016 Barolo, Bergadano
2016 Barolo Cerequio, Boroli
2016 Barolo Fontanin, Livia Fontana
2016 Barolo Baudana, G.D. Vajra
2016 Barolo Tresuri. Mauro Sebaste

2016 Barolo Gabutti, Franco Boasso
2016 Barolo Serralunga, Fontanafredda
2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra, Gemma
2016 Barolo, Martini Voerzio
2016 Barolo Albe, G.D. Vajra
2016 Barolo Cerretta, Mauro Sebaste
2016 Barolo Mariondino, Parusso
2016 Barolo Bussia, Parusso

85 and lower
2016 Barolo, Parusso
2016 Barolo Mosconi, Parusso

Friday 14 February 2020

1993 Barolo, Virna Borgogno

1993 Barolo, Virna Borgogno
Needed an hour in the decanter before it opens up. Then it displays a low keyd, structured nose with notes of dried strawberries, asphalt, earth and decaying flowers. A fine old school Nebbiolo nose.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of red currants, asphalt, rosehips and some still rough ended tannins. Medium long and fine. Mature but bottles like this will go on for 6+ years. Another fine bottle from this underrated vintage.
89p   (tasted 2020/02)

Sunday 9 February 2020

2012 Cristal, Louis Roederer

2012 Cristal, Louis Roederer
The new vintage of Cristal has a very, very handsome, delicate nose with fine notes of white flowers, red apples, matchbox, almond paste and lots and lots of minerals. There a lot of stuff to find in this precious, finely tuned nose. Lovely.
The taste is very long, very balanced and refined, with notes of lemon cream, steel, red apple skin and smoke. Very saline. The acidity is perfectly balanced. Young and tight of course but I have no problem downing some glasses of this nectar. A stunning wine. For me, this bottle lived up to Churchills motto - "dry, cold and free" - since Vinunic kindly opened bottles during a press release.
Made up of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay with 7,5 g/l dosage.
97p   (tasted 2020/02)

Friday 7 February 2020

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visit To Aldo Conterno

Loving the new labels! :-)
Visiting Giacomo is always a treat! He is a charming, vocal, opinionated and the most gracious friend and host you could ask for. The hours just flows by, and then there are the wines...

2017 Bussia d´Or
In this hot year (I was in Langhe in August and the temperature was hitting 35+ degrees some days) Giacomo harvested the Chardonnay grapes on the 25th of August.
The nose is deep and spicy with notes of bloor oranges, grilled lemons, smoke and sweet minerals. Open for business. Very, very good.
The taste is dense and concentrated with notes of sweet lime, smoke and tangerines. A very good structure and a fine acidity. Tasted again two hours later at room temperature and it hold very well together. Reminds me of the 2015.
92p   (tasted 2020/01)

2017 Barbera d´Alba Conca Tre Pile
A deep, smoky nose with a fine warmth and notes of red beets, raspberries and dry licorice. A very fine body.
The taste is structured and balanced with notes of red beet juice, dry licorice, asphalt and fresh herbs. A long, juicy finish. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2020/01)

2017 Il Favot
A fresh, low keyed nose with notes of ripening strawberries, red currants and minerals. Some iron scents. Very, very good.
The taste is easy going and direct with notes of cool strawberries, iron and earth. Very, very good but a tad anemic in the finish.
89p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Colonnello
The Colonnello displays a refined and racy nose with notes of hard cherry candy, red currants, sweet minerals and violets. Very fine.
The taste is rich and generous with notes of sweet/sour cherries, forest floor, violets and hints of tobacco. Very long and fine. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Cicala
A very deep, tight nose with notes of dried up cherry jam, violet scented soap, leather and iron. Dense and very fine.
The taste is taut and structured with notes of sweet/sour cherries, earth, dry tobacco and violets. Very long, very intense and very fine. 8+ years.
96p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Barolo Romirasco
Bottomless deep, complex and utterly gorgeous, this youngster shows of notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosehips, smoke and a hint of shoe polish. Perfectly balanced. Just stunning.
The taste is tight and sandy with notes of hard cherry candy, mushrooms, forest floor, rosehips and a hint of cool tobacco. The length is counted in minutes. Tasting the Romirasco is always a treat. 8+ years.
98p   (tasted 2020/01)

2012 Barolo Ríserva Granbussia
A very complex, multi layered nose with notes of leather, sugared coffee, ripe strawberries tar and the dark rubbery scent of a hockey puck! Very, very deep.
The taste is the proverbial "iron fist in a velvet glove", with lovely notes of dried red fruit, asphalt, undergrowth, violets and dark dry cookie dough. Long, long, long. Great wine. 6+ years.
98p   (tasted 2020/01)

Thursday 6 February 2020

Two 2015 Dogliani

These two Dolcetto´s were tasted at our apartment in Castiglione Falletto.

2015 Dogliani San Luigi, Chionetti
Structured and fine on the nose with notes of ripening blueberries, earth, violets and Langhe gravel, with its own scent. Very good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of ink, blueberries and dark flowers. An irony character. Still young. 5+ years.
87p   (tasted 2020/01)

2015 Dogliani Superiore San Bernardo, Anna Maria Abbona
A deep, dense, concentrated nose with notes of bakelite, dark earth and dried up Drottningsylt (a raspberry/blueberry jam). Very, very good.
The taste is taut and distinct with sandy tannins and notes of violets, iodine, ripe blueberries and scorched earth. Very long. This needs time, 7+ years.
91p   (tasted 2020/01)

Tuesday 4 February 2020

Tasting Through Divine´s Assortment

This afternoon I had the opportunity to taste through some of Divine´s assortment. I came late so I only tasted 33 wines. These were the highlights, according to my taste buds.

2018 Chablis Vieilles Vignes, Séguinot-Bordet
Crisp, smoky and finely balanced this young Chablis is great to drink now and the coming 10 years.
91p   (tasted 2020/02)

2017 Vagüera, Alvar de Dios Hernandez
Made from Dona Blanca this extrovert, gorgeous wine shows of ripe yellow fruit, white pepper and flowers with a long, deep and complex taste.
92p   (tasted 2020/02)

2017 Las Vidres, Alvar de Dios Hernandez
More restrained that the wine above, this beauty displays notes of sun warm rocks, grilled lemons and passionfruit. The taste is concentrated, balanced and lovely. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2020/01)

2016 Ma Douce Chardonnay, Morlet
Open and fine with ripe pears, matchbox and minerals on the nose and a long, distinct taste with great flavours and a creamy, silky mouthfeel.
94p   (tasted 2020/02)

2017 Yavallo, Alvar de Dios Hernandez
The red wine from this, for me, new producer, is a fine as the whites above. Ripe black fruits, scorched earth, tobacco and dark chocolate on the nose and a multi layered, complex taste with structure and finesse, this is a keeper.
93p   (tasted 2020/02)

2016 Enchanté White, Andrew Murray
Andrew Murray was on location and poured his fine wines. This Roussanne and Grenache Blanc blend offers up a flowery and white pepper filled nose with a perky taste with a very fine acidity.
91p   (tasted 2020/02)

2017 Espérance, Andrew Murray
A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The nose is spicy and fine with notes of forest floor and cranberries. The taste is elegant and peppery with notes of blueberries, herbs and sun warm rocks.
91p   (tasted 2020/02)

2016 Syrah Tous les Jours, Andrew Murray
A delicate, light meaty nose with a additional notes of asphalt and dark licorice, and a long, expressive taste with a fine, dry ending. Lovely now but will keep for many years, as the 1998 tasted last summer was a testiment to.
92p   (tasted 2020/02)

2016 Sandy´s Pinot Noir, Melville
A smoky, intense Pinot nose with sweet wild strawberries, a hint of tobacco and warm tiles. The taste is velvety but with a stern backbone and complexity. Really fine.
94p   (tasted 2020/02)

The 2016 Lyndenhurst and the 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignong from Spottswoode were tasted last September, with the same impressions. Stunning wines.

2016 Syrah, Lillian
Another handsome, perfectly polished Syrah from Maggie Harrison. Buy and drink! Just as fine as
the 2015.
96p   (tasted 2020/02)

2015 No 4, Andremily
Everything in place, this beauty just needs 10 years to hit its peak and maybe perfection. A blend of 91% Syrah, 6% Mourvédre and 3% Viognier.
96p   (tasted 2020/02)

2012 Grand Millésime Brut
On my way out a caught a taste of this palate cleanser, which showed as fine as a couple of months ago.
93p   (tasted 2020/02)