2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Massolino
A upfront, juicy nose with notes of red cherries, cigarette ash, birch leaves and forest floor. A fine depth. Very, very good.
The taste is pure and healthy with notes of ripe lingonberries, cranberries, licorice and forest floor. Cool tannins in the long finish. Drinking beautifully.
89p (tasted 2017/08)
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Altare
A fresh, invigorating nose with notes of blueberry bushes, ripe flowers, coffee powder and minerals. Very fine.
The taste is crisp and sound with notes of ripening raspberries with the odd blackberry thrown in, raspberry licorice, leather and warm tiles. A fine length with a cleansing acidity.
90p (tasted 2017/08)
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Sandrone
A tad dark, deep nose with notes of ripe cherries, blueberries, smoke and sweet violets. Deep and refined. Very fine.
The taste is succulent and ripe with notes of blueberry pie, forest floor, smoke and a hint of chocolate. Long and lingering. A fine Dolcetto.
89p (tasted 2017/08)
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
A young, open nose with notes of spicy cherries, salmiak, blueberries and warm tiles. Fresh and salivating.
The taste is perky and earthy with a fine mix of raspberries and blueberries alongside notes of licorice and violets. Gulpable. Very, very good.
88p (tasted 2017/07)
Wednesday 30 August 2017
Tuesday 29 August 2017
Sunday 27 August 2017
Burgers & Barolo
It was maybe the last (?!) chance to grill outside, so I fired up the grill and made some juicy burgers with the usually fixings - tomatoes, grilled onions, truffle mayonnaise and Heston chips (or French fries for the world outside Great Britain). If you haven´t made them you have too - the best ones in the world - the recipe is here.
2012 Barolo Castiglion, Vietti
A classic, fine nose with notes of violets, cherries, licorice, mushrooms and candle grease. Deep and fine. After som air a fine note of dark ginger bread dough. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes of sour/sweet cherries, hard cherry candy, licorice and undergrowth. Long and fine with sandy tannins. A classig, young, somewhat austere finish. Will surely evolve well over the coming 8+ years.
90p (tasted 2017/08)
2011 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Mauro Veglio
A wonderful, deep, multi layered nose with notes of ripe black cherries, forest floor, a hint of tobacco and a high, lovely floral aroma. Really fine.
The taste is focused and fine with a stunning length, chewable tannins and notes of sour/sweet cherries, sweet violets, tobacco and dried flowers. Refined with a great mouthfeel. A stunning wine that will get even better with 5+ years in the cellar.
94p (tasted 2017/08)
2012 Barolo Castiglion, Vietti
A classic, fine nose with notes of violets, cherries, licorice, mushrooms and candle grease. Deep and fine. After som air a fine note of dark ginger bread dough. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes of sour/sweet cherries, hard cherry candy, licorice and undergrowth. Long and fine with sandy tannins. A classig, young, somewhat austere finish. Will surely evolve well over the coming 8+ years.
90p (tasted 2017/08)
2011 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Mauro Veglio
A wonderful, deep, multi layered nose with notes of ripe black cherries, forest floor, a hint of tobacco and a high, lovely floral aroma. Really fine.
The taste is focused and fine with a stunning length, chewable tannins and notes of sour/sweet cherries, sweet violets, tobacco and dried flowers. Refined with a great mouthfeel. A stunning wine that will get even better with 5+ years in the cellar.
94p (tasted 2017/08)
Saturday 26 August 2017
Chablis From Domaine Long-Depaquit
My notes have really been piling up. I have tasting notes from December 2016 up to now which I haven´t had the time to write down and post. But I will work my way through them!
First up a Chablis tasting from May this year when Domaine Long-Depaquit presented some of their wines in Stockhom.
This 65 ha estate produces six 1er Cru´s and six Grand Cru´s. I got the chance to taste a nice lineup from the 2015 vintage. I had a 86 Les Lys which I opened at the tasting to have something mature to compare with.
Info here.
2016 Chablis
A cool, steely nose with notes of rocks, minerals and star fruit. Good in a linear way.
The taste is seedy and tight with stony fruit and chrushed rocks. Needs time.
85p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis
A young, handsome nose with notes of grey pears, smoke and some fine soapy scents. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and elegant with notes of grass, grey pears and lemon juice. A fine acidity.
88p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys
An expressive, chalky nose with notes of green apples, grass and sun warm rocks. A fine depth.
The taste is refined and loaded with sweet yellow fruits, grass, elderberries and minerals. Long and fine. Really good.
90p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins
A very "green" nose with notes of chlorophyll, freshly cut grass and grapes. Very good.
The taste is young and filled with ripe green fruit and sweet minerals. Long and lingering. Very fine.
89p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Beugnons
A spicy, low keyed nose with notes of birch leaves, grass and gravel. Good.
The taste is high and dry with notes of cucumber water, grass and gravel. A tad austere.
86p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons
A fresh, open, spicy nose with notes of lime peel, chalk and wild flowers. Deep and fine.
The taste is steely and dry with notes of dried flowers, herbs and chrushed rocks. A fine mouthfeel and a racy acidity. Very, very good.
90p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
A deep, complex nose with notes of grilled lemons, minerals, chalk and yellow flowers. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. This is goood!
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of lemon cream, cap gun smoke, chrushed rocks and a hint of ginger. Very long and rewarding. Young of course, but oooh so good.
93p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne
This Monople wine displays a cool, compact nose with notes of ripening yellow plums, sun warm rocks and warm grass. Very deep.
The taste is tight and restrained with notes of lemon peel, hard grey pears and minerals en masse. Very long and focused but today not flashing what it has in store for the future. Wait 6+ years for this one. 2,35 ha which is divided between Vaudésir (95%) and Preuses (5%).
91p (tasted 2017/05)
1986 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys
This 30 year older bottles was a nice comparison to the youngsters. The nose is broad and mature with notes of old wrinkled yellow apples, beewax, dry fudge and a hint of saffron. Multi layered and interesting.
The taste is dry and soft with notes of dried mango, hay, dried honey and bakelite. A fine, medium long finish. Still plenty of life. A very good acidity.
88p (tasted 2017/05)
First up a Chablis tasting from May this year when Domaine Long-Depaquit presented some of their wines in Stockhom.
This 65 ha estate produces six 1er Cru´s and six Grand Cru´s. I got the chance to taste a nice lineup from the 2015 vintage. I had a 86 Les Lys which I opened at the tasting to have something mature to compare with.
Info here.
2016 Chablis
A cool, steely nose with notes of rocks, minerals and star fruit. Good in a linear way.
The taste is seedy and tight with stony fruit and chrushed rocks. Needs time.
85p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis
A young, handsome nose with notes of grey pears, smoke and some fine soapy scents. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and elegant with notes of grass, grey pears and lemon juice. A fine acidity.
88p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys
An expressive, chalky nose with notes of green apples, grass and sun warm rocks. A fine depth.
The taste is refined and loaded with sweet yellow fruits, grass, elderberries and minerals. Long and fine. Really good.
90p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 & 1986 |
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins
A very "green" nose with notes of chlorophyll, freshly cut grass and grapes. Very good.
The taste is young and filled with ripe green fruit and sweet minerals. Long and lingering. Very fine.
89p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Beugnons
A spicy, low keyed nose with notes of birch leaves, grass and gravel. Good.
The taste is high and dry with notes of cucumber water, grass and gravel. A tad austere.
86p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons
A fresh, open, spicy nose with notes of lime peel, chalk and wild flowers. Deep and fine.
The taste is steely and dry with notes of dried flowers, herbs and chrushed rocks. A fine mouthfeel and a racy acidity. Very, very good.
90p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
A deep, complex nose with notes of grilled lemons, minerals, chalk and yellow flowers. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. This is goood!
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of lemon cream, cap gun smoke, chrushed rocks and a hint of ginger. Very long and rewarding. Young of course, but oooh so good.
93p (tasted 2017/05)
2015 Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne
This Monople wine displays a cool, compact nose with notes of ripening yellow plums, sun warm rocks and warm grass. Very deep.
The taste is tight and restrained with notes of lemon peel, hard grey pears and minerals en masse. Very long and focused but today not flashing what it has in store for the future. Wait 6+ years for this one. 2,35 ha which is divided between Vaudésir (95%) and Preuses (5%).
91p (tasted 2017/05)
1986 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys
This 30 year older bottles was a nice comparison to the youngsters. The nose is broad and mature with notes of old wrinkled yellow apples, beewax, dry fudge and a hint of saffron. Multi layered and interesting.
The taste is dry and soft with notes of dried mango, hay, dried honey and bakelite. A fine, medium long finish. Still plenty of life. A very good acidity.
88p (tasted 2017/05)
Wednesday 23 August 2017
Rossese Di Dolceacqua - A Visit To Tenuta Anfosso
We visited Liguria again this summer for the first time in four years time. Great to be back in my favourite part (ecxept for Langhe of course!) of Italy.
Last time we were there I made my first visit to Tenuta Anfosso. It was high time for a revisit and see what have happened at this great wine grower.
I was meet by Alessandro and we were soon at it again, as I remembered it from the last time, he explaining something in Italian with a few words of English and I asking question in English with a few words of Italian wedged in...
Luckily Alessandros wife Marisa came to the rescue after a while with her good English!
2016 Dolceacqua Eprie
This is a wine from Alessandro´s son Lorenzo, the 7th generation that makes wine here, impressing! 100% Rossese, a blend of grapes from Poggio Pini and Fulavin. The nose is light and spicy with notes of dried raspberries, licorice and black pepper. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied and dry with notes of ripe lingonberries, spice and earth. A medium long finish with a fine warmth. Again, very good.
86p (tasted 2017/07)
2015 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Fulavin
A new bottling from the cru Fulavin. It has a deep, smoky nose with notes of ripe raspberries, fried herbs and a hint of a barnyard in a distance.
The taste is tight and warm with notes of spicy raspberries, smoke and tobacco. A long, warm finish. Very, very good.
88p (tasted 2017/07)
2014 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Poggio Pini
The Poggio Pini is usually my favourite among Alessandro´s wine, and the 2014 was no exception. The nose soars fron the glass with aromas of fresh spices, ripe raspberries, earth, expensive soap and a hint of balsamic vinegar. Deep and complex, and at the same time light and inviting. Great!
The taste is young, tight and complex with notes of raspberries, black pepper, scorched earth and leather. Very long and lingering. Delicate. This is really fine.
I bought a couple of bottles before I left and I retasted one bottle of the Poggio Pini some days later and my impressions were the same.
93p (tasted 2017/07)
2014 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Luvaira
The Luvaira is usually more dense and dark than the Poggio Pini, and this is, with a nose filled with ripe wild raspberries, bonfire smoke, freshly grounded black pepper and moist earth.
The taste is big and upfront with notes of dark raspberries, Finnish licorice, fried herbs and bonfire. A long, warm finish with sandy tannins. Peppery in the end of the finish. Very fine.
91p (tasted 2017/07)
(2016) Antea
Alessandro then asked (I think...) if I wanted to taste the new vintage of the Antea from cask. Would I!
The grapes for Antea is Rossese Bianco di San Biagio, an extremely rare Ligurian grape, and the vines are older than 1888! Earlier vintages has only got steel tank treatment before bottling but starting with the 16 the wine will get some time in Accacia wood (just like the Sauvignon Dives from Burlotto).
The nose is deep and large scaled with notes of ripe oranges, white flowers, dry fudge and some white pepper scents. Has a oaked Chardonnay feeling about it. But this was straight from the cask, it will get 1/3 in wood and 2/3 in steel tank before bottling. Very deep and fine.
The taste is broad and deep with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, grilled lemons and sweet minerals. Very long with a fine acidity. Looking forward to tasting it after bottling.
91p (tasted 2017/07)
During out time in Liguria I found some other bottles from Tenuta Anfosso in entoecas and bought and tasted them.
2014 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore
The Normale Rossese displays a young, perky nose with notes of lingonberries, dark orange peel, spices and a hint of ginger bread. Medium deep. Nice.
The taste is cool and peppery with notes of cranberries, lingonberries, cigarette ash and herbs. A fine balance. Very good.
87p (tasted 2017/07)
(2015) Antea
The (15) Antea is a whole another expression than the barrel sample of the 2016. The nose is upfront and nice with notes of tangerines, dry honey, warm rocks and white pepper. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied with notes of dried pine apple, chalk, warm grass and dried flowers. Very good but the 16 had more intensity and charm.
87p (tasted 2017/07)
(2016) Sctacau
Tenuta Anfosso´s rosé with the new label. From the 2016 vintage the labels will be white instead of black. This rosé sports a fresh, juicy nose with notes of ripening strawberries, salmiak and roses. Uplifting and salivating.
The taste is fresh and dry with notes of wild strawberries, rose petals and earth. A fine acidity. Very, very good. A fine dryness at the end.
88p (tasted 2017/08)
Looking forward to my next visit too Alessandro and Marisa!
Monday 21 August 2017
2010 Château Le Puy & Château Fourcas Hosten
I was craving some Bordeaux (you can´t drink Nebbiolo all the time...?) and opened these two bottles.
There were some really interesting development on both wines during the two evenings I drank them. One wasn´t that funny day one but really blossomed day two. The other was a fine Bordeaux example day one but got rather boring day two.
2010 Château le Puy
Day one - a barnyardy, high pitched nose with notes of red currants, cool tobacco and from time to time a whiff of sweaty gym socks that didn´t air of on the first day. Not to my fancy. For both bottles I just put the cork in and saved the remains (about half) in a cool place until the next day.
And the le Puy had made the magic transformation to a swan in about 20 hours. The nose is clean as a whistle, full of ripe red currants, bonfire smoke, minerals and maybe a hint of animal fur, but in a good way.
The taste on day one is dry, seedy and earthy with notes of ripening red currants, road dust and dry leather. A tad anemic. Medium long. Ok enough but nothing to write home about.
On day two it had becomed deep and actually sweeter with riper fruit and better balance. I had it at 84p on day one but when swallowing the last drop day two it was a solid
90p (tasted 2017/08)
2010 Château Fourcas Hosten
This, on the other hand, started out as a classic Bordeaux with a deep, warm nose with notes of ripe black currants, cigarr, graphite and a hint of chocolate. A fine depth. After a while som smoky scents. Very, very good.
But that was the first day. 20 hours later the nose of the Fourcas Hosten has become muddled and a tad one dimensional. The fruit has lost some of its sweetness. Still enjoyable but not like on day one.
The taste is young, tight and finely structured with notes of sweet red and black currants, tobacco leaves, pencil shavings and a touch of bakelite. A fine dryness in the finish. Highly likeable.
Not as much on day two. More dry and backward and the fruit doesn´t really come forward. Even somewhat angular. Very good with food though. I had it at 89p day one but after 24 hours it had sunk to
86p (tasted 2017/08)
Sunday 20 August 2017
Cleaning Out The Closet - Bind Ends & Stray Bottles
Some bottles have been lying there for too long, taking up space, They are the result of bin end cases bought and also the odd whimsical buy. Time to make some room and open bottles!
1964 Montelpulciano Riserva, Gabriella Matassini ERcolani
Lots of interesting info on the label, the level good for the age and the cork came out in one piece, but...dead as a dodo.
50p (tasted 2017/08)
1975 Chianti Classico Riserva, La Pagliaia
A large scaled nose that is verging on cooked (bad storage?) with notes of cherry jam, hot earth and sweet dried flowers.
The taste is big and foursquare with notes of licorice, dried up cherry jam and Tuscan gravel. A dry, fine end. The taste is better than the nose.
78p (tasted 2017/08)
1978 Château de Fonscolombe
This Aux en Provence displays a light, mature nose with notes of red currants, almond paste and a hint of smoke. A fine maturity. Cool and nice.
The taste is dry and linear with notes of lingonberries, undergrowth and dried flowers. A bit on the light side but nice.
82p (tasted 2017/08)
1981 Chianti Classico Riserva, Villa Antinori
A great surprise! What could you expect from a 36 year old Chianti? The nose is medium deep, sandy and fine with notes of red cherries, violets, cigarett smoke and saw dust. A very fine maturity.
The taste is tight and mature with a fine dryness and notes of rowanberries, red cherries, tobacco and dried herbs. A fine salty note. Long and fine. Very, very good.
88p (tasted 2017/08)
1994 Le Marangole Pinot Noir, Castello d´Albola
The nose is a melange of moist undergrowth, the heavy scent of overripe strawberries and old leather. Not an inviting nose.
The taste is dry and hollow with dried up fruit and a medium length. The acidity is ok though. No thanks.
67p (tasted 2017/08)
1995 San Martino, Cipriana
Scorched earth, overripe blueberries and wet cigarettes in a unappetizing blend.
The taste is big and fiery with cooked fruit, fried herbs and tobacco. Bitter on the finish.
63p (tasted 2017/08)
1996 Cuvée Sexrant, Celliers d´Orfée
An earthy and tobacco filled nose with additional notes of dried blueberries, autumn leaves and fir. Good enough but a bit boring.
The taste is medium bodied with notes of dried blueberries, earth and old leather. A decent wine but one you have forgotten the second you have swallowed it.
81p (tasted 2017/08)
1997 Sassello, Castello di Verrazzano
This 100% Sangiovese has a large, hot nose with notes of muscovado cooked cherries, pipe tobacco and moist earth. Deep but a bit muddled.
The taste is big, dry and compact with notes of cooked cherries, dry licorice and dusty earth. The finish is medium long and on the dry side.
80p (tasted 2017/08)
1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Vintner´s Reserve, Kendall-Jackson
A mature, round and warm nose with notes of plums, dry black currants, coffe powder and a hint of mint. Keeping up well. A fine maturity. Very good.
The taste is inviting and soft with notes of black currants, blueberries, herbs and asphalt. A fine warmth in the medium long finish. Drinking fine.
86p (tasted 2017/08)
Friday 18 August 2017
1990 & 1996 Barbaresco, Produttori Del Barbaresco
I have been lucky to buy quite a few vintages of the Barbaresco Normale from the Produttori in recent times. Time to test drive two of them.
1990 Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco
A deep, finely matured nose with lots of undergrowth, autumn leaves and mushrooms. With air notes of dried cherries, rosehips and iron rises up from the glass. A fine old style firmness. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied, dry and balanced with notes of dried cherries, dried flowers, rust and old leather. A firm structure. A fine acidity and mouthfeel. Cool and fine even if it comes from a warm year. Fully mature but will surely hold for another 5+ years.
90p (tasted 2017/08)
1996 Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco
The 96 is a beauty. The nose is deep, somewhat mature with notes of cranberries, hard cherry candy, ripe red flowers and a touch of band aid too add to the complexity. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight, seedy and structured with the feeling of chewing on cherry pips alongside notes of leather, iron, tobacco and rosehips. A long, balanced finish. Will hit full maturity in 6+ years. Great wine.
92p (tasted 2017/08)
1990 Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco
A deep, finely matured nose with lots of undergrowth, autumn leaves and mushrooms. With air notes of dried cherries, rosehips and iron rises up from the glass. A fine old style firmness. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied, dry and balanced with notes of dried cherries, dried flowers, rust and old leather. A firm structure. A fine acidity and mouthfeel. Cool and fine even if it comes from a warm year. Fully mature but will surely hold for another 5+ years.
90p (tasted 2017/08)
1996 Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco
The 96 is a beauty. The nose is deep, somewhat mature with notes of cranberries, hard cherry candy, ripe red flowers and a touch of band aid too add to the complexity. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight, seedy and structured with the feeling of chewing on cherry pips alongside notes of leather, iron, tobacco and rosehips. A long, balanced finish. Will hit full maturity in 6+ years. Great wine.
92p (tasted 2017/08)
Thursday 17 August 2017
A Bargain Bordeaux
9 Euro. Could you get a Bordeaux for 9 Euro? That you actually could drink?
I had read good things about this one so I ordered a couple of bottles.
2015 Château Haut-Landon
The cepage is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, but my first impressions of the nose is that of Cabernet Franc - lots of varm grass, some bell pepper and warm tiles. With air scents of red currants, dried plums and fir wood arises from the glass. A bit on the light side but there is a fine balance here.
The taste is medium bodied with a fine structure and notes of red currants, tiles, dry tobacco and some grassy notes. A fine acidity and rounded tannins. A very fine mouth feel. A tad short maybe. True to its origin and a very nice "luncheon claret" to quote Michael Broadbent.
88p (tasted 2017/08)
I had read good things about this one so I ordered a couple of bottles.
2015 Château Haut-Landon
The cepage is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, but my first impressions of the nose is that of Cabernet Franc - lots of varm grass, some bell pepper and warm tiles. With air scents of red currants, dried plums and fir wood arises from the glass. A bit on the light side but there is a fine balance here.
The taste is medium bodied with a fine structure and notes of red currants, tiles, dry tobacco and some grassy notes. A fine acidity and rounded tannins. A very fine mouth feel. A tad short maybe. True to its origin and a very nice "luncheon claret" to quote Michael Broadbent.
88p (tasted 2017/08)
Tuesday 15 August 2017
A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2008 Brut, Thiénot
2008 Brut, Thiénot
Yet another 08 Champagne, the best vintage since 1988 IMHO (up to now better than 1996, although I haven´t tasted the big guns yet).
The nose is high, pure and very likeable with notes of white currants, elderberries, chalk amd almond paste. Deep and salivating. Right up my alley. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and racy with notes of lemon licorice, dry fudge, grass and minerals. Long and lingering with a fine, pure acidity. I could use a couple of bottles of this to go into my 08 stash.
92p (tasted 2017/08)
Monday 14 August 2017
2014 Brolettino & Ronchedone, Cà Dei Frati
The Brolettino was bought from the state monopoly after some glowing reviews on social media and the Ronchedone was drunk during the beginning of our holiday when we stayed a couple of days in Sirmione at Lake Garda, just a stone throw or two from where these wines are produced.
Info here.
2014 Brolettino, Cà dei Frati
Made out of 100% Turbiana this reminds me of a restrained Chardonnay with notes of peach, candied lemons, cap gun smoke and elderberries. A salivating, fresh and cool nose. Very likeable.
The taste is cool and handsome with notes of grilled lemons, peach and chrushed rock, with a high, fine acidity. Fresh and fine. Really good.
90p (tasted 2017/07)
2014 Ronchedone, Cà dei Frati
This is a blend of Mazzemino, Sangiovese and about 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is deep and rich with ripe black cherries, graphite, rosemary and pipe tobacco. Broad and beautiful. Some new wood. Really good.
The taste is young, tight and refined, more so than on the nose. Fine notes of black currants, pencil shavings, leather (those 10% Cabernet shows :-) and dusty earth. Polished tannins. Long and fine. Should mature nicely for the coming 6+ years.
92p (tasted 2017/08)
Info here.
2014 Brolettino, Cà dei Frati
Made out of 100% Turbiana this reminds me of a restrained Chardonnay with notes of peach, candied lemons, cap gun smoke and elderberries. A salivating, fresh and cool nose. Very likeable.
The taste is cool and handsome with notes of grilled lemons, peach and chrushed rock, with a high, fine acidity. Fresh and fine. Really good.
90p (tasted 2017/07)
2014 Ronchedone, Cà dei Frati
This is a blend of Mazzemino, Sangiovese and about 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is deep and rich with ripe black cherries, graphite, rosemary and pipe tobacco. Broad and beautiful. Some new wood. Really good.
The taste is young, tight and refined, more so than on the nose. Fine notes of black currants, pencil shavings, leather (those 10% Cabernet shows :-) and dusty earth. Polished tannins. Long and fine. Should mature nicely for the coming 6+ years.
92p (tasted 2017/08)
Friday 11 August 2017
Two Baroli
We spent the last two days of our vacation in Italy in Langhe (more on that later), and when I come home, what do I crave....more Baroli!
2005 Barolo, Kiola
Both bottles decanted for an hour. The first sniff of the 05 is all about forest floor and mushrooms. With more air scents of rosehips, leather, spices and chocolate wafers emerge. Very good. Actually even better on the nose on day two.
The taste has got some age with notes of old leather, mushrooms, coffee grounds and a touch of angostura. A fine dryness in the finish. Become more dry on day two but still holds it grounds.
87p (tasted 2017/08)
2012 Barolo, Franco Soliano
I must find more from this producer (a Terredavino make of some sort) for this is good! The nose i high, cool and pure with notes of ripe lingonberries, paint, violets and some sage aromas. Very fine. Holds fine until the next day.
The taste is tight and energetic with notes of cool strawberries, roses and asphalt. A long, lingering finish with sandy tannins with a fine bite to them. Really good.
91p (tasted 2017/08)
2005 Barolo, Kiola
Both bottles decanted for an hour. The first sniff of the 05 is all about forest floor and mushrooms. With more air scents of rosehips, leather, spices and chocolate wafers emerge. Very good. Actually even better on the nose on day two.
The taste has got some age with notes of old leather, mushrooms, coffee grounds and a touch of angostura. A fine dryness in the finish. Become more dry on day two but still holds it grounds.
87p (tasted 2017/08)
2012 Barolo, Franco Soliano
I must find more from this producer (a Terredavino make of some sort) for this is good! The nose i high, cool and pure with notes of ripe lingonberries, paint, violets and some sage aromas. Very fine. Holds fine until the next day.
The taste is tight and energetic with notes of cool strawberries, roses and asphalt. A long, lingering finish with sandy tannins with a fine bite to them. Really good.
91p (tasted 2017/08)
Tuesday 8 August 2017
Amarone - Why Oh Why?
I have been hesitating for almost a year over writing this post.
I am fortunate to taste and drink a lot of good and great wines. Not just quality wise but also the kind of wines I personally like.
Occasionally there are wines that I don´t fancy, those that aren´t my cup of tea, but that doesn´t happen too often.
Then there were this tasting - 26 wines poured. 7 of them I could (but woulnd´t) taste and drink again. 19 were in various degrees of mediocary down to real awfulness.
Prunes. I don´t like prunes. And here it were prunes in almost every wine, in some soo much I started to think that the wines were actually made out of prunes instead of grapes.
If you are a fan of Amarone, you should stop reading now. This is not going to be pretty.
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Famiglie dell´Amarone d´Arte is organisation of thirteen family owned wineries that combined stands for 20% of the total production of Amarone each year.
Each producer presented two wines, one recent vintage and one of various age.
I give the wine a approximate score since I spent just a couple of minutes with each wine.
Allegrini
2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
A big, meaty, burned nose with cherry jam, sweet licorice and some VA.
The taste is big and fiery with notes of dark cherries, asphalt and lots of wood smoke. Grain alcohol in the finish.
~82p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
An old, dried up nose with burnt earth, prunes, dark licorice and VA.
The taste is very dry with notes of figs, dried cherries and dusty earth. The finish is all dried up and like licking on a blotting paper.
~76p (tasted 2016/10)
Begali
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca´Bianca
A young, upfront, sweet nose with notes of sun dried tomatoes, wood smoke and yes, prunes. Big.
The taste is forceful with lots of jammy fruit, smoke and cooked tomatoes. Very dry tannins in the long finish.
~81p (tasted 2016/10)
2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca´Bianca
A mature, foursquare nose with notes of cherry jam, warm herbs, VA and some dog fur, but that mix is rather likeable.
The taste is dry and fiery with notes of dried cherries, licorice and dusty earth, but manages to package all into a nice experience.
~87p (tasted 2016/10)
Brigaldara
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie
This one is actually really good with a deep, more red fruited nose with notes of ripe strawberries, spices, smoke and some animal scents.
The taste is big and steady but keeps it all together with notes of red cherries, forest floor, beet roots and ripe flowers. Very, very good.
~89p (tasted 2016/10)
2012 Amarone della Valpolicella
The ordinary 12 isn´t that good. Here were are again with a nose filled with with cooked fruit, prunes, VA and burnt earth.
The taste is young and fiery with foursquare fruit, lots of heat and dusty earth. The finish is rather good though.
~80p (tasted 2016/10)
Guerrieri Rizzardi
2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Calcarole
An interesting mix of overripe black cherries, soap, chocolate and VA...
The taste is big and compact with notes of cooked cherries, prunes, dry licorice and scorched earth. Very long and very warm with bitter tannins. Supposedly a No 1 wine in Gambero Rosso in 2014...
~78p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Calcarole Century Edition
Lo and behold, this three year older version is much, much better, with a deep, warm, somewhat mature nose with notes of ripe cherries, cigarr smoke, forest floor and violets.
The taste is big and concentrated but keeps everything in balance and the finish is very long and luscious. Very, very good.
~90p (tasted 2016/10)
Masi
2011 Amarone Classico Costasera
Oh dear. An overly sweet, cloying nose with prunes, nougat, Muscovado sugar and wet saw dust...
The taste is dryer than the nose promises with overripe cherries, band aid and dark chocolate. A lot of alcohol in the long finish. And people drink this?
~74p (tasted 2016/10)
1998 Amarone Classico Costasera
This nose is all over the place with no balance and structure, just a mess of dried fruit, wood and sour tobacco.
The taste is very, very dry and fiery with old cherries marinated in grain alcohol and saw dust. Almost undrinkable.
~66p (tasted 2016/10)
Musella
2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva
Finally! A producer whose both wines were excellent. The 09 has a large scaled, intense nose with notes of dried flowers, ripe cherries and herbs. A fine depth.
The taste is steady and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, undergrowth, toasted almonds and herbs. Warm but balanced. Really good.
~90p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva
The 06 is bigger and meatier than the 09 but manage to keep evrything in check, with notes of licorice, warm herbs and some barnyardy aromas.
The taste is big and brawny with some maturity and notes of sour/sweet cherries, asphalt and dark licorice. Very long and warm. I might drink an Amarone from Musella...
~88p (tasted 2016/10)
Speri
2012 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella Vigneto Monte Sant´Urbano
Two producers in a row with good wines! The 12 Speri has a deep, rich nose with notes of ripe strawberries, dusty earth, herbs and fir wood. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dried strawberries, Finnish licorice, herbs and some balsamic notes. Very fine. Long and lingering. Not a prune in sight!
~91p (tasted 2016/10)
1997 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella Vigneto Monte Sant´Urbano
The older version has a deep, mature, dried up nose with notes of raspberries, earth, asphalt and some tobacco. Deep and fine.
The taste is round, velvety and warm with notes of dried red fruits, gravel, herbs and dried up balsamic vinegar. Very, very good.
~88p (tasted 2016/10)
Tedeschi
2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi
Ok, we are back to the prune swamp again... A big, bloated nose with over sweet fruit, fried herbs and VA.
The taste is a tad better but almost port like in its extraction and sweetness. Some bitter tannins in the finish.
~72p (tasted 2016/10)
2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Capitel Monte Olmi
The 5 year older version is a smidgen better but we are splitting hairs here, same MO but with some age. Definitely not up my alley.
~74p (tasted 2016/10)
Tenuta Sant´Antonio
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli
This is weird but actually really good. Smells of red, dried up botrytis! Has a fine warmth and nice cherry aromas.
The taste is young and potent with notes of ripe cherries, warm undergrowth and tobacco leaves. A long, warm finish. Good.
~86p (tasted 2016/10)
2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli
From a magnum. Even better with a few years of age and from a magnum! The nose is deep, mature and rounded with notes of licorice covered cherries, herbs, asphalt and tobacco.
The taste is big and bold but keeps things together with a lovely ripe cherry fruit and additional notes of tobacco, wood smoke and licorice. Really good.
~90p (tasted 2016/10)
Tommasi
2012 Amarone Classico
A big, brawny, all over the place nose with notes of prunes, licorice, mud and old tobacco.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of cherry jam, wet tobacco and road dust. A long, hot finish.
~80p (tasted 2016/10)
2008 Amarone Classico Riserva Ca´Florian
The 08 Riserva has a deep, war, spicy nose with notes of cooked cherries, prunes, VA and moist forest floor. Very warm but in a rather nice way.
The taste is heavy handed with lots of cherry and raspberry jam with additional notes of licorice, rotting flowers and VA. Very, very long and fiery.
~77p (tasted 2016/10)
Torre d´Orti
2013 Amarone della Valpolicella
A young, fruity, open nose with notes of raspberries, clay, prunes and a hint of cognac. Good.
The taste is dark and dense with notes of Finnish licorice, moist earth and cherry jam. A long, warm finish. A tad top heavy but resonable good.
~84p (tasted 2016/10)
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella
The two year older version is really good, with a deep, fine nose with notes of cherry liquor, forest floor, damsons and a hint of chocolate.
The taste is big and fruity but have structure and a broad shouldered finesse with dark fruit and fine earthy aromas. Really good.
~88p (tasted 2016/10)
Venturini
2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campomasua
A large scaled nose with notes of overripe cherries, prunes, scorched earth and dark chocolate. Very sweet.
The taste is big, big and big with a portwine touch and lots of cooked cherries, figs and dusty earth. A fiery finish.
~78p (tasted 2016/10)
2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva
A heavy, mature nose with dried cherries marinated in liquor, dark earth, VA and ink. Unbalanced.
The taste is very concentrated and fiery with overly sweet fruit combined with notes of melted asphalt, dry licorice and rotting flowers.
~76p (tasted 2016/10)
Zenato
2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
A big, bloated nose with notes of cherry jam, prunes, sour tobacco and fried herbs. Rather foursquare.
The taste is very dry and fiery with dried fruits, dusty earth and a long, hot finish that ends with angular tannins.
~75p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Why not save the worst for last? There are some rotten elements in this nose, but it is the fruit, the earth och has the liquor that it is made of gone bad, who knows (and who wanna know)?
The taste is horrid, with cooked underripe fruit which have compensated with liquor, granulated sugar and saw dust in a lovely mix... The finish is fiery and very unbalanced. Why oh why?
~63p (tasted 2016/10)
I am fortunate to taste and drink a lot of good and great wines. Not just quality wise but also the kind of wines I personally like.
Occasionally there are wines that I don´t fancy, those that aren´t my cup of tea, but that doesn´t happen too often.
Then there were this tasting - 26 wines poured. 7 of them I could (but woulnd´t) taste and drink again. 19 were in various degrees of mediocary down to real awfulness.
Prunes. I don´t like prunes. And here it were prunes in almost every wine, in some soo much I started to think that the wines were actually made out of prunes instead of grapes.
If you are a fan of Amarone, you should stop reading now. This is not going to be pretty.
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Famiglie dell´Amarone d´Arte is organisation of thirteen family owned wineries that combined stands for 20% of the total production of Amarone each year.
Each producer presented two wines, one recent vintage and one of various age.
I give the wine a approximate score since I spent just a couple of minutes with each wine.
Allegrini
2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
A big, meaty, burned nose with cherry jam, sweet licorice and some VA.
The taste is big and fiery with notes of dark cherries, asphalt and lots of wood smoke. Grain alcohol in the finish.
~82p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
An old, dried up nose with burnt earth, prunes, dark licorice and VA.
The taste is very dry with notes of figs, dried cherries and dusty earth. The finish is all dried up and like licking on a blotting paper.
~76p (tasted 2016/10)
Begali
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca´Bianca
A young, upfront, sweet nose with notes of sun dried tomatoes, wood smoke and yes, prunes. Big.
The taste is forceful with lots of jammy fruit, smoke and cooked tomatoes. Very dry tannins in the long finish.
~81p (tasted 2016/10)
2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca´Bianca
A mature, foursquare nose with notes of cherry jam, warm herbs, VA and some dog fur, but that mix is rather likeable.
The taste is dry and fiery with notes of dried cherries, licorice and dusty earth, but manages to package all into a nice experience.
~87p (tasted 2016/10)
Brigaldara
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie
This one is actually really good with a deep, more red fruited nose with notes of ripe strawberries, spices, smoke and some animal scents.
The taste is big and steady but keeps it all together with notes of red cherries, forest floor, beet roots and ripe flowers. Very, very good.
~89p (tasted 2016/10)
2012 Amarone della Valpolicella
The ordinary 12 isn´t that good. Here were are again with a nose filled with with cooked fruit, prunes, VA and burnt earth.
The taste is young and fiery with foursquare fruit, lots of heat and dusty earth. The finish is rather good though.
~80p (tasted 2016/10)
Guerrieri Rizzardi
2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Calcarole
An interesting mix of overripe black cherries, soap, chocolate and VA...
The taste is big and compact with notes of cooked cherries, prunes, dry licorice and scorched earth. Very long and very warm with bitter tannins. Supposedly a No 1 wine in Gambero Rosso in 2014...
~78p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Calcarole Century Edition
Lo and behold, this three year older version is much, much better, with a deep, warm, somewhat mature nose with notes of ripe cherries, cigarr smoke, forest floor and violets.
The taste is big and concentrated but keeps everything in balance and the finish is very long and luscious. Very, very good.
~90p (tasted 2016/10)
Masi
2011 Amarone Classico Costasera
Oh dear. An overly sweet, cloying nose with prunes, nougat, Muscovado sugar and wet saw dust...
The taste is dryer than the nose promises with overripe cherries, band aid and dark chocolate. A lot of alcohol in the long finish. And people drink this?
~74p (tasted 2016/10)
1998 Amarone Classico Costasera
This nose is all over the place with no balance and structure, just a mess of dried fruit, wood and sour tobacco.
The taste is very, very dry and fiery with old cherries marinated in grain alcohol and saw dust. Almost undrinkable.
~66p (tasted 2016/10)
Musella
2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva
Finally! A producer whose both wines were excellent. The 09 has a large scaled, intense nose with notes of dried flowers, ripe cherries and herbs. A fine depth.
The taste is steady and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, undergrowth, toasted almonds and herbs. Warm but balanced. Really good.
~90p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva
The 06 is bigger and meatier than the 09 but manage to keep evrything in check, with notes of licorice, warm herbs and some barnyardy aromas.
The taste is big and brawny with some maturity and notes of sour/sweet cherries, asphalt and dark licorice. Very long and warm. I might drink an Amarone from Musella...
~88p (tasted 2016/10)
Speri
2012 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella Vigneto Monte Sant´Urbano
Two producers in a row with good wines! The 12 Speri has a deep, rich nose with notes of ripe strawberries, dusty earth, herbs and fir wood. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of dried strawberries, Finnish licorice, herbs and some balsamic notes. Very fine. Long and lingering. Not a prune in sight!
~91p (tasted 2016/10)
1997 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella Vigneto Monte Sant´Urbano
The older version has a deep, mature, dried up nose with notes of raspberries, earth, asphalt and some tobacco. Deep and fine.
The taste is round, velvety and warm with notes of dried red fruits, gravel, herbs and dried up balsamic vinegar. Very, very good.
~88p (tasted 2016/10)
Tedeschi
2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Capitel Monte Olmi
Ok, we are back to the prune swamp again... A big, bloated nose with over sweet fruit, fried herbs and VA.
The taste is a tad better but almost port like in its extraction and sweetness. Some bitter tannins in the finish.
~72p (tasted 2016/10)
2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Capitel Monte Olmi
The 5 year older version is a smidgen better but we are splitting hairs here, same MO but with some age. Definitely not up my alley.
~74p (tasted 2016/10)
Tenuta Sant´Antonio
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli
This is weird but actually really good. Smells of red, dried up botrytis! Has a fine warmth and nice cherry aromas.
The taste is young and potent with notes of ripe cherries, warm undergrowth and tobacco leaves. A long, warm finish. Good.
~86p (tasted 2016/10)
2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli
From a magnum. Even better with a few years of age and from a magnum! The nose is deep, mature and rounded with notes of licorice covered cherries, herbs, asphalt and tobacco.
The taste is big and bold but keeps things together with a lovely ripe cherry fruit and additional notes of tobacco, wood smoke and licorice. Really good.
~90p (tasted 2016/10)
Tommasi
2012 Amarone Classico
A big, brawny, all over the place nose with notes of prunes, licorice, mud and old tobacco.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of cherry jam, wet tobacco and road dust. A long, hot finish.
~80p (tasted 2016/10)
2008 Amarone Classico Riserva Ca´Florian
The 08 Riserva has a deep, war, spicy nose with notes of cooked cherries, prunes, VA and moist forest floor. Very warm but in a rather nice way.
The taste is heavy handed with lots of cherry and raspberry jam with additional notes of licorice, rotting flowers and VA. Very, very long and fiery.
~77p (tasted 2016/10)
Torre d´Orti
2013 Amarone della Valpolicella
A young, fruity, open nose with notes of raspberries, clay, prunes and a hint of cognac. Good.
The taste is dark and dense with notes of Finnish licorice, moist earth and cherry jam. A long, warm finish. A tad top heavy but resonable good.
~84p (tasted 2016/10)
2011 Amarone della Valpolicella
The two year older version is really good, with a deep, fine nose with notes of cherry liquor, forest floor, damsons and a hint of chocolate.
The taste is big and fruity but have structure and a broad shouldered finesse with dark fruit and fine earthy aromas. Really good.
~88p (tasted 2016/10)
Venturini
2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campomasua
A large scaled nose with notes of overripe cherries, prunes, scorched earth and dark chocolate. Very sweet.
The taste is big, big and big with a portwine touch and lots of cooked cherries, figs and dusty earth. A fiery finish.
~78p (tasted 2016/10)
2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva
A heavy, mature nose with dried cherries marinated in liquor, dark earth, VA and ink. Unbalanced.
The taste is very concentrated and fiery with overly sweet fruit combined with notes of melted asphalt, dry licorice and rotting flowers.
~76p (tasted 2016/10)
Zenato
2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
A big, bloated nose with notes of cherry jam, prunes, sour tobacco and fried herbs. Rather foursquare.
The taste is very dry and fiery with dried fruits, dusty earth and a long, hot finish that ends with angular tannins.
~75p (tasted 2016/10)
2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Why not save the worst for last? There are some rotten elements in this nose, but it is the fruit, the earth och has the liquor that it is made of gone bad, who knows (and who wanna know)?
The taste is horrid, with cooked underripe fruit which have compensated with liquor, granulated sugar and saw dust in a lovely mix... The finish is fiery and very unbalanced. Why oh why?
~63p (tasted 2016/10)
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