Friday 31 May 2019

Friday Dinner Barolo - 2012 Barolo, Andrea Oberto

2012 Barolo, Andrea Oberto
This (almost) seven year old Barolo needed an hour in the decanter to come around, and then it deliver fine notes of dried up cherry jam, bonfire smoke, Finnish licorice and paint. A hint of warmth. A fine depth. Very, very good.
The taste is tighter than the nose with notes of ripe cherries, dried strawberries, earth and tobacco. Very yummy in an direct, old school style. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/05)

Friday 24 May 2019

Leakers - 1964 Vino Fara, Valsesia A. Borgomanero

1964 Vino Fara, Valsesia A. Borgomanero
Rearranging the cellar I came across some leaking bottles. Old ones, as you could imagine, some had leaked a lot, some just a little. I have now opened them, with some nice surprises.
First out is this Piemonte wine (as the label says) that sports a earthy, round, mature nose with notes of molasses, dried cherries, scorched earth and bonfire smoke. Got better and better with air.
The taste is dry and warm with notes of burned sugar, dried cherries, wet autumn leaves and old asphalt. A bit thin in the middle. Just hanging in there, the nose is fresher.
81p   (tastes 2019/05)

Monday 20 May 2019

Two 2001 Baroli

2001 Barolo Tortoniano, Michele Chiarlo
This has started to mature and shows a medium deep, round nose with notes of undergrowth, dried up strawberry jam, bay leaves and asphalt. A fine maturity without complexity.
The taste is forward and dry with notes of dried red fruits, bonfire, undergrowth and dried herbs. A fine warmth in the finish. Maybe not fully mature yet but I don´t think it will get more complex with additional aging.
87p   (tasted 2019/05)

2001 Barolo Riserva, Essenze, Terredavino
A deep, tight, focused nose with notes of hard cherry candy, dried flowers, rosehips and shoe polish. Energetic. This still has places to go, just hints of maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, concentrated, yet with a silky tannins and a very fine ripe cherry fruit, with additional notes of licorice, asphalt and paint. Very long. Hasn´t budget since last time tasted. Still needs 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/05)

Saturday 18 May 2019

Not So Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys Visit Reverdito & Ascheri

After our first visit to Giacomo Conterno we soldiered on to two new acquaintances.

We met up with Michele and Sabina, brother and sister, who own the estate, which was established in 2000. Their father, Silvano, started to buy vineyards all over Langhe in the late sixties, and they make up the Cru´s which are bottled today.

2016 Nascetta
The 16 Nascetta has a very aromatic, flowery nose with notes of yellow apples, grass and dried apricots. Very nice.
The taste is cool and dry with notes of tangerines, grass and dried flowers. A good acidity. A tad foursquare in the finish. Good.
85p   (tasted 2018/11)

2017 Nascetta
The 17 has a perky and fine nose with notes of orange flower water, minerals and tangerines. Open and fine.
The taste is racy and fine with a very good acidity and lots of yellow fruits. Long. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2018/11)

2017 Pelaverga
From an previously opened bottle - don´t know how long it has been opened but its shows a muted nose with notes of cooked berries, rosehips and heavy undergrowth. Not the character that I am used to in Pelaverga.
The taste is dry and compact with notes of assorted red berries, tobacco and rosehips. Judgement referred.
78p   (tasted 2018/11)

2015 Barbera d´Alba Butti
An open, fruity, spicy nose with notes of raspberry licorice, smoke and some chocolate biscuits. Very good.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of ripe raspberries, tobacco and forest floor. Long and warm.
87p   (tasted 2018/11)

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo Simone
A fine, delicate nose with notes of cranberries, dried flowers and dry licorice. Very good.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of ripening red cherries, wild strawberries, gravel and rosehips. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo
A light, classic nose with notes of lingonberries, dry tobacco, strawberries and rosehips. Very nice.
The taste is cool and seedy with notes of dried strawberries, tobacco and dried flowers. Petite, perky tannins. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo Castagni
A withdrawn, young nose with notes of fir wood, paint, ripening raspberries and dark perfume. Very nice.
The taste is tight and steady with notes of dry raspberries, tobacco and chrushed rocks. A severe mid palate that need time to soften. 5+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo Ascheri
A deep, complex nose with notes of spicy raspberries, licorice, paint and roses. Very fine. High and handsome.
The taste is finely tuned with silky tannins and ripe red fruit alongisde notes of tar, licorice and dried flowers. Lovely. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo Bricco Cogni
The Bricco Cogni has a fine perfumed nose with notes of dark flowers, ripe lingonberries, earth and roses en masse! A fine complexity. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of ripe lingonberries, earth, red beets and asphalt. Fine tannins. 3+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo Badarina
This is a another ball game all together - richer and riper than the previous wines, this 14 displays a deep, warm, all ove the place nose with notes of ripe plums, dried tangerines, ripe flowers, warm sand and fir wood. Peculiar and very interesting.
The taste is large scaled (for a 14) and intense with notes of ripe morelles, sweet/sour cherries, sand, tobacco and spices. Very long. Give this 8+ years and it will become a real stunner or have crumbled and died...
93p   (tasted 2018/11)

From barrel and tank we also tasted - 2016 Barolo La Serra (~92p), 2016 Barolo Badarini (~93p), 2017 Barolo Bricco Cogni (~92p) & 2018 Barolo Badarini (~90p).

This is an ancient producer - since 1880 - that is located in Bra. Hard to locate (even with gps....) but very well worth it.

2017 Arneis
A very fine, high nose with notes of dried up honey, orange flowers, light spices and grass. Has a lot of energy. Very good.
The taste is cool and racy with notes of lemon peel, spices, grass and gravel. A very fine acidity. Vibrant.
88p   (tasted 2018/11)

2015 Montalupa Bianco
Everyone that knows me know that my least favourite white wine grape in the world is Viognier. And here I am, tasting a very good one!
The nose is open, rich and very spicy with notes of earth, ripe flowers, hay, clay and matchstick. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of flower water, ripe tangerines, hay and wet stones. A decent enough acidity. Rich, generous and very fine.
90p   (tasted 2018/11)

2013 Montalupa Rosso
This Syrah offers up a cool, white peppery nose with notes of blueberries, cool meat, bakelite and dark spices. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and peppery with notes of smoke, blueberries, smoke and violets. A long, spicy finish. Restrained and fine. 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo
A fine, low keyed nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, cramberries, paint and earth, Very fine in a restrained way.
The taste is classic, seedy and fine with notes of hard cherry candy, earth, shoe polish and rosehips. Balanced and fine. 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/11)

2013 Barolo Pisapola
A deep, fine nose with a lovely dry sweetness and notes of ripe red cherries, Finnish licorice, rosehips and dark bread. Very fine.
The taste is young, tight and refined with notes of ripe red cherries, raspberry licorice, incense and sand. Lovely. Like licking on a sandpaper (in a positive sense). 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/11)

2013 Barolo Ascheri
Even better, the Ascheri offers up a hauntingly deep nose with notes of dark cherries, tobacco, moist earth, warm tiles and fresh flowers. Very, very fine.
The taste is stony, tight and high with notes of sweet/sour cherries, tobacco, fir wood, spices and tiles. The finish goes on and on. Great wine. 7+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/11)

2013 Barolo Sorrano
The Sorrano is a dream. The nose is deep and refined with notes of perfectly ripe cherries, sand, ripe red apples, bonfire smoke, rosehips and asphalt. Soooo fine.
The taste is pure, racy and refined with notes of bonfire smoke, ripe cherries, licorice, forest floor and incense. Very concentratet yet balanced and energetic. 10+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/11)

2013 Barolo Coste & Bricco
The Coste & Bricco comes from the highest part of the Sorrano vineyard. The nose is very pure and refined with notes of hard cherry candy, warm sand, bonfire and rosehips. Very tight and focused.
The taste is handsome and elegant with a very pure cherry fruit and additional notes of dry licorice, tobacco, sand, rosehips and furniture polish. The finish goes on for minutes. Tighter than than the Sorrano. Wait at least 10 years. The 2010 tasted here.
94p   (tasted 2018/11)

Friday 17 May 2019

One Young & One Aged Bordeaux

2015 Château d´Agassac
I have always have had a soft spot for d´Agassac. My notes goes back to the 80´s with a lot of found memories. The 15 sports a fine, low keyed intense nose with notes of red and black currants, undergrowth, spices, leather and graphite. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied with perky tannins, a fine warmth and notes of ripe red and black currants, chrushed rocks, dry tobacco and pencil shavings. A fine, old school Bordeaux that will need 6+ years in the cellar.
88p   (tasted 2019/05)

1986 Château De la Riviére
Last tasted last summer and this bottle feels a tad more mature but still delievers lovely mature aromas and a velvety, long finish.
88p   (tasted 2019/05)

Wednesday 15 May 2019

2016 Old Vines Mourvédre, Birichino

2016 Old Vines Mourvédre, Birichino
This youngster has a transparent, racy, high nose with notes of white pepper, red currants, incense and fresh herbs. Very juicy and fine.
The taste is crisp and fine with notes of lingonberries, blueberries, earth, herbs and some nutty notes. Long and lingering. Delicate and fine.
91p   (tasted 2019/05)

Monday 13 May 2019

Not So Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys Visit Giacomo Conterno

I am starting to catch up with my notes... These are from last November when two unrelenting Barolo Boys headed to Piedmont and ate and drank well. First stop - Roberto!

Ciacomo Conterno
When we left, despite all great wines tasted at this visit (as usual), we couldn´t stop talking about the glass Roberto has created - Sensory
What about it, you could say, just another wine glass? No, no, no. Tasting is believing and I urge everyone interested in getting the most from your wines, to try it.

Roberto is happy when we have surrended to his glass. A white wine? Read on...
2016 Barbera d´Alba
Bottled june 18. The nose is luscious and refined with notes of red plums, incense, dry licorice and dried flowers. Very fine.
The taste is mouth coating and juciy with notes of raspberrry licorice, earth and spices. A long finish with a fine warmth. Lovely. I bet that 17 will be even better.
92p   (tasted 2018/11)

The new glass - Sensory - soon in my cupboard...
2015 Gattinara, Nervi
Robertos new project. He has been involved for some years but for these vintages he has been more of a consulting wine maker. From 2018 he has bought the estate and has full control.
The nose is cool and fresh with notes of lingonberries, chrushed rocks, rosehips and dried strawberries. Light and fine.
The taste is tight and seedy with a fine acidity, strappy tannins and dried red berries - lingonberries, raspberry and currants. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Gattinara Vigna Valferana, Nervi
A very deep, restrained and spicy nose with notes of dry licorice, cool red cherries. asphalt and rosehips. A fine nerve.
The taste is laid bacl, tight and complex with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, asphalt and dried roses. Long and very fine.
91p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Gattinara Vigna Molsino, Nervi
The Vigna Molsino is a stunner, with a sandy, herbal and stony nose with notes of dried strawberries, fresh roses, sun warm rocks and a hint of tobacco. Very pure and fine.
The taste is racy, pure and seedy with notes of ripening strawberries, sand, iron and earth. The proverbial "iron fist in a velvet glove". Great wine. Maybe it is time to open the 1964 Gattinara Riserva from Luigi Nervi that I have...
93p   (tasted 2018/11)

2014 Barolo Cerretta
A very deep, balanced, gorgeous nose with notes of rose petals, bricks, a touch of bonfire, sweet/sour cherries and cigarette ashes. There is lots going on here and all is good. Just stunning.
The taste is very tight and complex with notes of rosehips, cherry licorice, warm tiles, asphalt and tobacco. Every knot and bolt in the right place, but ooh so young. Even better than the 13. Give it 6+ years and then...
96p   (tasted 2018/11)

Roberto pouring Monfortino...
2013 Barolo Monfortino
Tasted a year ago - with a then perfect score - it has now tightened up and show more structure, depth and restraint. Brilliant fruit, awesome balance and a finish that goes on and on and on. Will get that perfect score again, in 15+ years time. Too bad its out of my price range now.
98p   (tasted 2018/11)

2007 Kirchspiel, Keller
Roberto had by now proved that for Barbera and Nebbiolo his glass outshined the Zalto (from which we always have tasted when visiting), but then he mentioned that his glass was the best for Cabernet, Merlot, Riesling... Riesling we said! No way! Not with this shape!
Roberto was up to the challenge and fetched a Keller bottle and now we were poured this wine in four different glassed - Zalto Universal, Zalto Bordeaux, Zalto Burgundy and Sensory.
And the outcome - the Sensory glass was vastly superior to the others. No match.
And the Kirchspiel? Great wine!
94p   (tasted 2018/11)

Saturday 11 May 2019

Two Dolcetto´s - 34 Years Apart

1983 Dolcetto d´Alba, Cav. Armando Piazzo
A bad vintage for Nebbiolo, but obviously not for Dolcetto. Is all fairness, I was not expecting this to be alive in any shape or form, but lo and behold! The nose is mature and wrinkled with notes of soft red cellar apples, undergrowth, dried red berries and a soft scent of dried up strawberry juice. Has survived but the energy is mostly gone.
The taste is dry and a tad hollow in the middle but shows notes of dried red berries, autumn leaves, lingonberry juice and some bitterness at the end. Holds up very well in the glass for hours. And very convenient to have the phone number on the label if you want to get hold of the wine maker...
80p   (tasted 2019/05)

2017 Dolcetto d´Alba, Curto
A young, energetic nose with notes of blueberrie bushes, cigarette ashes, iron and chalk. Smells like a warm spring day. Perky and fine.
The taste is tight and fresh with notes of red currants, blueberries, iron ans chrushed rocks. Medium long. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/05)

Friday 10 May 2019

A Terrific Dinner With Lots Of Fine Wines, Mostly From USA

Håkan invited some of the usual suspects to dinner - lots of wine, laughs and and a overall great time.
All wines tasted double blind.

NV Solessance Rosé, JM Sélèque
A nice, low key start with this Rosé, with 3 gr sugar and 2016 as the base wine. It is light and fresh with notes of red currants, gravel and hints of wild strawberries.
The taste is cool and nice with notes of red currants, lingonberries, grapefruit and gravel. Very dry. I think that this would have faired well with a sligthly higher dosage.
87p   (tasted 2019/03)

2016 Maía, Siddüra
A Vermentino from Sardinia, of course I nailed this one... The nose is finely tuned, light and aromatic with notes of lemon peel, cement, licorice and lots of fine flowers. Elegant.
The taste is cool and stony with notes of gravel, lemon peel and dried flowers. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/03)

2017 Cascaï, Château Ferrylacombe
Another Vermentino, this time from Provence where its called Rolle. This is a lovely wine, with a young, perky nose with notes of grass, ripe pears, minerals and elderberries. On its toes. Very fine.
The taste is young, tight and finely scented with notes of grey pears, minerals, quinine and white currants. Long and refined.
91p   (tasted 2019/03)

2015 Haynes Vineyard Chardonnay, Failla
Four wines were then poured and the consensus were Chardonnay. Even a blind hen... But for some wines we had them pegged as Burgundian. But no...
The first one sports a cool, smoky nose with notes of lemon cream, white flowers and butter cookies. Very, very good.
The taste is lightly smoky, balanced and fine with notes of smoke, lemon cream, dried flowers and melon. A hint of warmth in the end. Very fine.
91p   (tasted 2019/03)

2015 The Vanguard Chardonnay, The Hilt
The next wine sports a deep, interesting nose with notes of birch leaves, almonds, smoke and tangerines. Very, very good.
The taste is young, sporty and smoky with a fine acidity and notes of lemon cream, oranges, smoke and dry toffee. Long and very fine.
91p   (tasted 2019/03)

2015 Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay Four, Liquid Farm
Aaaah, what a wine. The nose soars up from the glass with gorgeous notes of white flowers, cold butter, chalk and almond paste. A high, intense and captivating nose.
The taste is handsome, balanced and fine with notes of white peach, salt caramel, dried up vanilla ice cream and a hint of smoke. Complex. Still young. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2019/03)

2015 Santa Maria Hills Bien Bien Chardonny, Liquid Farm
The other Liquid Farm is almost as good. The nose is deep and smoky with notes of lemon cream, undergrowth, dried pineapple and grass. Very fine.
The taste is creamy and fine with notes of dried pineapple, lemon cream, smoke and chrushed rocks. Long, juicy and perky.
93p   (tasted 2019/03)

2010 Serinae, Anthony Parent
This Vin de Pays deliveres a maturing, rustic nose with notes of red beets, iron, bakelite and ripening blueberries. Upfront and very good.
The taste is tighter and younger feeling than the nose leads on. Fine notes of ink, blueberries and plums. Long and dry. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2019/03)

2010 Santa Rita Hills Melville Vineyard Syrah, Ojai
A deep, fine nose with a cool warmth and notes of red currants, dry licorice, fir wood and dried flowers. Refined. Some chalky scents.
The taste is concentrated and fine with notes of iron, blueberries, violets and dried flowers. Very long and elegant. A hint of maturity. Racy.
93p   (tasted 2019/03)

2010 Griffins Lair Syrah, Pax
In contrast to the recently tasted train wreck from Pax, this was really fine. The nose is deep and sweet with notes of iodine, ripe plums, bakelite and rubber. Very, very good.
The taste is very tight and concentrated  with notes of iron, scorched earth, diesel and ripe plums. Very long. There is lots going on here and most of it is good.
90p   (tasted 2019/03)

2012 In The Rocks Syrah, Reynvaan
The 2010 was a revelation a couple of months back, and the 2012 follow suit. The nose is a dream with a lovely meaty aroma combined with freshly grounded black pepper, leather, ripe blueberries and ink. Very deep and refined.
The taste is elegant and multi layered with notes of violet pastilles, dried plums, peppered meat and forest floor. A very fine acidity. A purebred.
94p   (tasted 2019/03)

2015 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, Liquid Farm
Another stunner from Liquid Farm! The Pinot offers up a deep, barnyardy nose with notes of dark roses, damp earth, root vegetables and ripe wild raspberries. A lovely sweetness.
The taste is refined and racy with a very fine acidity and notes of warm tiles, ripe red currants, earth and beet roots. Long and lingering. Very handsome.
94p   (tasted 2019/03)

2016 Le Clos St Vincent, Vin de Bellet
This Folle Noir based wine shows a medium bodied, nice nose with notes of asphalt, dried herbs and a mix of assorted red and blue berries. Very good but a tad anonymous.
The taste is high spirited with notes of red currants, cherry pips, gravel and some peppery notes. A fine, light finish. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2019/03)

2012 Old Garden Mourvédre, Hewitson
This Barossa Mourvédre (from the oldest Mourvédre vineyard on earth, planted in 1853) displays a spicy, open, flirty nose with notes of vanilla cooked fruit, hot asphalt, grilled meat and warm herbs. A kind of in-your-face wine but it also has a balance. Very, very good.
The taste is big and steady with notes of plums, scorched earth, grilled herbs and a some tobacco flavours. Also warm tiles. Long. Highly likeable.
89p   (tasted 2019/03)