Monday 14 September 2015

Keller, Keller, Keller.....& More Keller!

S invited to a very interesting tasting of four (that became five!) vintages of Kellers cru´s - Hubacher, Kirchspiel, Morstein and Abtserde. And one G-Max!

We knew that the flights would be the different cru´s together, but it was blind both which cru it was (though it got easier with each passing flight...:-)) and in which order the vintages came. The last flight - number five - was completely blind but the info was that we should be able to guess the wines correctly based on the previous four flights.
It was a very fascinating tasting and proof of what world class wines Klaus Peter Keller produces.

Some reflections on the vintages: I had on average the highest scores on the wines from 2007. If the 09 Abtserde wouldn´t have been corked I would venture that 09 should have been on the same level. The 08´s was very fine but still very youngish and a touch angular. The 06´s was the only wines that displayed any signs of maturity and except for the Hubacher they didn´t reach the height of the other vintages.

2009 Von Der Fels, Keller
As a starter this was poured. It still has a young, fresh nose with notes of slate, pear, birch sap and a touch of vanilla. Very nice.
The taste is young and tight with a fresh acidity and notes of pear ice cream, chalk, birch leaves and a touch of rubber. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight One
2008 Hubacker, Keller
A young, flinty nose with notes of pear, lemon peel, gooseberries and a fine floral scent. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and pure with notes of white currants, lemon cream and summer flowers. A very good acidity. Long and fine. A good body on this.
92p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Hubacker, Keller
A bigger nose than the previous wine, with fine notes of lemon cream, soap, smoke and earth. Very, very good. Deep.
The taste is young and tight with a Chablis like character, and notes of lemon cream, hay, chalk and smoke. A long, aristocratic finish with a high and pure acidity. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Hubacker, Keller
And the 06 is the best, although it was pretty unanimous that this was 08 and that the flight was Kirchspiel... Ah, well, the wine is stunning with its deep, refined nose with notes of lemon grass oil, crushed rocks, grass and ripe yellow pears. Very deep and fine.
The taste is big and impressive with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, grass and a hint of rubber. A lovely mouth feel. Long, long, long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Two
2008 Kirchspiel, Keller
Tasted only a month ago, and it performs just as good on this night. Deep and complex, although it was a tad more restrained than a month ago, both on the nose and on the palate. Very, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Kirchspiel, Keller
The 07 Kirchspiel is a stunner. The nose is cool, refined and deep with notes of chalk, lemon peel, cap gun smoke, yellow roses and a hint of vanilla pod. Beautiful.
The taste is very tight, pure and racy with notes of lemon and lime peel, chalk, crushed rocks and white currants. The acidity is of the charts. Very long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Kirchspiel, Keller
This has a tight, restrained nose with notes of warm grass, dried tropical fruit and a touch of rubber. More mature than the two previous ones and not as focused. But still a very fine wine.
The taste is pure and tight with some maturity and notes of lemon cream, slate, grass and dried peach. Very long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Three
2008 Morstein, Keller
A deep, spicy, lovely nose with notes of concentrated lemon juice, red lemon, liquorice and some hay. A very fine spicy character. Very deep and refined.
The taste also has that spicy element with additional notes of blood orange, gravel and red currants. A very long finish with a stunning acidity. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Morstein, Keller
When I had finished my glass I could only concur with Tank - That´s what dreams are made of.
The nose is deep, refined and spicy with stunning notes of blood oranges, sweet minerals, rose petals, asphalt and matchbox. This is gooooood!
The taste is just wonderful with its balance between spicy yellow fruit, a racy acidity and a two minute long finish. Red lemon, chalk, roses and gravel. Truly great.
98p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Morstein, Keller
The 06 Morstein is, again, the most mature of the three, even though it has a long way to go. The nose is deep and concentrated with notes of earth, Christmas spices, lemon cream and dried flowers. A bit dense. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, seedy and deep with notes of dried tropical fruits, lemon cream, mud and a hint of liquorice. Long and fine, but as with the nose, a bit dense.
91p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Four
2008 Abtserde, Keller
It was no problem guessing which cru this was... The 08 is a masterpiece. The nose is cool, pure and refined with notes of dark lemons, vanilla ice cream, birch sap and lots of crushed rocks. Very, very deep. Just lovely.
The taste is very tight and fresh with notes of grapefruit, birch sap, earth and a hint of vanilla pods. A very long, focused finish with a high acidity. A taut structure with a light character. Great!
97p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Abtserde, Keller
The 07 Abtserde is almost as good as the 08, and has a deep, pure nose with notes of sea shells, grapefruit, potato peels and lots of chalk. Very fine. A lovely depth and structure.
The taste is very taut and concentrated with notes of dark lemons, birch leaves, earth and lemon liquorice. A cool, fresh acidity that takes the finish away for minutes. Very refined. A stunning wine.
96p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Abtserde, Keller
The 06 Abtserde doesn´t reach the height of the two younger vintages, but it is a very good wine on its own. The nose is deep and a bit restrained with notes of red lemons, mud, dried flowers and some grilled limes. Deep and fine with a fine warmth.
The taste is big and steady with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, sweet minerals and lemon liquorice. Long and warm. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Five
2009 Hubacker, Keller
We actually nailed this as Hubacher - even a blind hen... The nose is young and restrained with notes of wild strawberries, sweet lemon, pear and lots of chalk. Very young and very good.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of lemon peel, dried melon, lemon liquorice and gravel. A long, slim finish with a fine acidity. Needs time.
92p   (tasted 2015/08)

2009 Kirchspiel, Keller
And we kept on hitting the bulls eye - everyone nailed this a Kirchspiel. It has a young, earthy, cool nose with notes of crushed rocks, sea shells, lemon peel and cap gun smoke. Very fresh and pure. Really fine.
The taste is young, creamy and pure with notes of grapefruit, cucumber water, smoke and a fine salty note. A long, restrained finish with a very fine acidity. This will turn out great with 5+ more years in the cellar.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

2009 Abtserde, Keller
#¤%&¤#"!! The only corked bottle thankfully, yet every time it happens you get so frustrated!

2012 G-Max, Keller
Did anyone nail this as G-Max? No... Still, a marvellous wine. The nose is deep and very spicy with notes of ripe yellow apples, lime peel, yellow roses, blood oranges and chalk. Very deep and refined. And very young.
The taste is taut, fresh and pure like a mountain river, with notes of red lemons, yellow apples, grapefruit, herbs and crushed rocks. The finish goes on for minutes. A very high acidity. Very young. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

2009 Morstein, Keller
The 09 Morstein is a beauty! The nose is elegant, cool yet very concentrated with notes of grapefruit, cap gun smoke, flower water and earth. Complex and fine. Very deep. Stunning!
The taste is pure, expressive and concentrated with notes of orange peel, chalk, white flowers, grapefruit and smoke. The finish goes on for minutes. Beautifully structured. Brilliant!
96p   (tasted 2015/08)

2005 Kirchspiel, Keller
This was kindly opened by S as a replacement for the corked Abtserde. This ten year old Kirchspiel has a wonderful nose with notes of red lemons, Christmas spices, earth and dried flowers. Very pure and racy. Lovely.
The taste is tight and pure with notes of red lemons, lime cream, lemon liquorice, spices and dusty earth. A very fine dryness. Long, long and long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/08)



  1. For many wines we actually the same scores and for some I liked them a bit more but what struck me the most was the incredible high quality throughout the entire range. It's like a luxury experience every time a new wine was poured. And it continued for hours and hours. Kudos to S for such an astonishing generosity. And to KP for his passionate work to transfer the vineyards' soul into a bottle so that we can enjoy it from near and far.

  2. Keller, truly magic! Great notes! I'm a bit slow, but getting there... Take care!