In a couple of weeks I will retire from the worklife. I thought it needed a celebration so I invited some friends, cooked dinner and opened a few bottles.
Interlude
NV Blanc de Blancs, Gosset
From magnum. A finely tuned, chalky nose with notes of yellow pears, dry fudge and grass. Very fine.
The taste is stony and fresh with a very fine acidity and sweet, perky yelllow fruit.
92p (tasted 2026/03)
Flight I
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Jean-Claude Ramonet
A delicate, smoky nose with notes of orange peel, white flowers and butter cookies, Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of lemon cream, smoke and hay. A very long, taut finish. 5+ years.
94p (tasted 2026/03)
2018 Saint-Aubin La Princée, Hubert Lamy
A finely tuned, sandy nose with notes of dried mango, fudge and sun warm gravel. A very fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is structured and fine with lovely fruit, a high acidity and a long, luscious finish. 4+ years.
94p (tasted 2026/03)
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chevenottes, PYCM
A deep, pure and fantastic nose with notes of elderberries, matchbox and lemon candy. Stunning.
The taste is young and potent with racy yellow fruit, a stern acidity and a lenght counted in minutes. 10+ years.
96p (tasted 2026/03)
Flight II
1850 Verdelho, Companhia Vinicola da Madeira
A very deep, hauntingly beautiful nose with notes of band aid, assoretd nuts, orange peel, wet earth and blood oranges. Just lovely.
The taste is medium bodied and immensly intense with notes of salted nuts, incense, iodine and moist earth. The acidity is of the charts and the finish goes on and on and on.
97p (tasted 2026/03)
Flight III
1996 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell´Annunziata, Paolo Scavino
A gorgeously mature nose with notes of cooked cherries, tobacco, dry licorice and ripe strawberries. Very fine.
The taste is open and silky with a lovely maturity, soft sweet cherry fruit and a long, lingering finish.
95p (tasted 2026/03)
2003 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell´Annunziata, Paolo Scavino
A warm, compact nose with notes of orange peel, mushrooms, pipe tobacco and scorched earth.
The taste is tight and warm with notes of dried up cherry jam, Finnish licorice and hot Langhe earth. Very, very good.
91p (tasted 2026/03)
2010 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell´Annunziata, Paolo Scavino
A very deep, layered nose with notes of ripe red cherries, paint, rosehips and fine leather. A tad restrained. Very fine.
The taste is taut and intense with stunning fruit, polished tannins and a minute long finish. Still needs 6+ years in the cellar.
94p (tasted 2026/03)
2016 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell´Annunziata, Paolo Scavino
Sadly corked ¤&#%!%¤#!
xxp (tasted 2026/03)
Flight IV
1982 Château Mouton-Rothschild
From magnum. I have been saving this bottle for a occasion like this. Bought in 1998 for 400 Euro :-).
A posterchild for a great Bordeaux, the nose oozes up from the glas with notes of frest stables, ripe black currants, fine tobacco and lead pencil shavings. Stunning.
The taste is rich and concentrated with hints of maturity, lovely black fruit and nibbling tannins in the long, long finish. A fabolous sweetness to the fruit. As good as it gets.
99p (tasted 2026/03)
1986 Château Calon Ségur
This was corked at my Calon Ségur vertical - Barolista: Château Calon Ségur 1948 - 2008 - and I wanted to taste a fresh bottle and thought it could be a nice comparison against the heavy hitters in the line up. Well, it had to take the backseat. The nose is cool and seedy with notes of smoke, dried red and black currants and autumn leaves.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of black tea, dried black currants and ink. A medium long, warm finish. Some mature notes but this could still evolve some.
88p (tasted 2026/03)
1986 Château Mouton-Rothschild
A very deep, velvety nose woth notes of ripe black currants, graphite, cold coffee and a hint of mint. Just lovely.
The taste is racy and refined with some maturity, rich black fruit and a long seamless finish. In a perfect drinking stage.
97p (tasted 2026/03)
1996 Château Mouton-Rothschild
A very tight, complex nose with notes of red apple skin, black currant leaves, iron and mint chocolate. Very, very fine.
The taste is young, stern and focused with every knot and bolt in the right place, just needs 8+ years in the cellar. Great wine.
97p (tasted 2026/03)
Flight V
1990 Coteaux du Layon, Domaine des Baumard
A soft, mature nose with notes of orange peel, wet hay, oilcloth and butter cookies. Very handsome.
The taste is open and refined with notes of yellow plums, hay and wet rocks. A long finish with a tight acidity. Very fine.
93p (tasted 2026/03)
1990 Château Filhot
A low keyed, elegant nose with notes of band aid, moist earth and hints of saffron. Very, very good.
The taste is silky and fine with notes of saffron cakes, white currants and iodine. A fine warmth in the finish.
90p (tasted 2026/03)
1990 Vouvray Premier Trie Moelleux Le Mont, Huet
A perennial favourite of mine, I think I have scored this wine 100p on four or five ocassions. Not tonight, but darn close. The nose is bottomless deep with gorgeous notes of candied orange peel, bay leaves, dried flowers, smoke and sugared coffee. Very complex.
The taste is pure and rich with boatloads of ripe sweet yellow fruit, a high acidity and a finish that is counted in minutes. Ends on a semi dry note. Almost fully mature. Great wine.
98p (tasted 2026/03)
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