Monday, 18 February 2019

Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys In Piedmont April 2018 - Part Two - Visits To Marengo, Produttori Del Barbaresco & Rattalino


More notes from The Barolo Boys trip to Piedmont in April of 2018. Only 40 days until we go again...:-)

Marengo
It is always a treat to visit Marco and Jenny and taste their stunning wines.

Disclaimer - the importer of Marengo and Luigi Pira to Sweden (Origo Wines) are friends of mine and co founders of The illustrious Barolo Boys. I, however, have no financial interests in these wines, I just call them as I see them.

I am spoiled to have tasted these first poured wines several times before the last year or so, see links below, so I just give a score for them, and focus on the new vintages.


2016 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Pugnane
89p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2014 Barolo
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
92p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Brunate
94p   (tasted 2018/04)

2012 Barolo Riserva Brunate
95p   (tasted 2018/04)

1996 Barolo Brunate
But before we got started with the new vintages I opened this 96 Brunate which I had brought with me. Popped and poured. The nose is direct, mature and open for business with notes of rosehips, Finnish licorice, tobacco and lots of moist forest floor. A touch of menthol after a while. Very, very good. Perfectly mature.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of dried cherries, earth, tar and chocolate biscuits. A long, silky, dry finish. Very fine. Bottles like this will go on for 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)


2015 Barolo
A fine, open nose with a lovely warmth and notes of salmiak, hard cherry candy and forest floor.
The taste is playful and inviting with sweet fruit, sandy tannins and a long finish. 6+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
A high, pure nose with lots of violets (!) and additional notes of rubber, roses and gravel. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe red cherries, violets and licorice. Finegrained tannins. 7+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Brunate
Deep and meaty with notes of dark flowers, ripe cherries and Christmas spices. Powerful.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of ripe cherries, raspberry licorice, tobacco and tar. Very long. 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Riserva Brunate
The nose is a dream with depth, concentration, elegance and height. Stunning notes of rosehips, sweet lingonberries, forest floor, tobacco leaves and iron. Very complex and fine.
The taste is very concentrated and intense with jaw gripping polished tannins and gorgeous cherry fruit. The finish goes on for minutes. Brilliant. 10+ years.
~97p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barolo
Again, 16 will turn out to be a exceptional vintage. This Normale shows what´s in store in just a years time. The nose is upfront and seductive with notes of raspberries, licorice, gravel and lots of ripe flowers. Very charming.
The taste is pure and structured with fruit, tannins and acidity in perfect balance. Energetic. Really fine.
~92p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
Aaaah, light and vibrant, yet with a low keyed power and intensity. Lots of iron, violets and tar. Plus heaps of ripe red cherries. Very, very fine.
The taste is pure and racy with brilliant fruit, sandy tannins and a uplifting finish that goes on and on. This is going places...
~94p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barolo Brunate
The 16 Brunate is a bruiser at this stage, with a deep, restrained nose with notes of black cherries, model clay, gravel and a hockey puck. Very, very deep.
The taste is very tight and concentrated with notes of iron, herbs, cool tobacco and warm sand. There is some rugged tannins at the end of the finish. This will need time to come around.
~94p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barolo Riserva Brunate
The 16 Riserva follows the 15 in its intensity, clarity and potential perfection. The nose is bottomless deep with gorgeous notes of ripe black cherries, sugared coffee, cigarr smoke, asphalt and earth.
The taste is brilliantly pure and vigorous with notes of cherry licorice, tobacco, tea and asphalt. The finish goes on for minutes. Just stunning.
~97p   (tasted 2018/04)


2017 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
A fresh, luscious nose with notes of tobacco, violets, red apples and iron. A very fine energy. Classy.
The taste is fine and elegant with notes of ripe cherries, tobacco, rosehips and chrushed minerals. Long and lingering.
~94p   (tasted 2018/04)

2017 Barolo Brunate
A fine, uplifting nose with notes of raspberries, some blueberries tossed in for complexity, herbs and warm gravel. Very fine.
The taste is cool and refreshing with ripe black fruit and additional notes of tar, damsons and cool tobacco. Very long and fine.
~93p   (tasted 2018/04)

2017 Barolo Riserva Brunate
Another racy Riserva, the 2017 displays a deep, tight nose with notes of raspberry licorice, cold coffee, Finnish licorice and dried flowers. A wonderful sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is pure and concentrated with notes of rosehips, raspberry licorice, tobacco and asphalt. The finish is counted in minutes. Another fabolous Riserva.
~96p   (tasted 2018/04)

The Barolo Boys visit Marengo in December 2016
The Barolo Boys visit Marengo in May 2017
The Barolo Boys visit Marengo in November 2017


Produttori del Barbaresco
My first visit to the Produttori. We was meet by the energetic Aldo Vacca who described the history of the cooperative and current state of affairs, before he hasted away and left us in the competent hands of Luca Cravanzola, who we also meet at BaroloBarbaresco (BaBa) in Turin a couple of days later (more of that in a coming post).
There are 54 wine growers that are part of the cooperative and the total area is 105 ha, which means that on average they are very small land owners and grape growers.


2016 Langhe Nebbiolo
A cool, earthy nose with notes of herbs, damsons and dried flowers. Very good.
The taste is young and tight with notes of lingonberries, earth and dry licorice. 3+ years.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barbaresco
The 14 Normale offers up an elegant nose with notes of dried cherries, tobacco and nuts. Very aromatic and fine.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of ripe lingonberries, warm earth, tobacco and roses. Very fine tannins. Long. Really good. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/04)


2013 Barbaresco
The 13 Normale is more subdued and linear compared to the 14 with cool cherry fruit and a tight, dry finish. Give this 5+ years and see what happens.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)

2013 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagöta
The 13 Riserva´s is something else compared to the Normale. The Muncagöta (the dialect version of Moccagatta) is the name on the label since 2007. The nose is deep and spicy with notes of bonfire, ripe flowers, herbs and lots of hard cherry candy. Very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of chrushed rocks, tobacco, hard cherry candy and earth. Long and lingering. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)




2013 Barbaresco Riserva Pajé
The Pajé offers up a deep, distinct nose with notes of dried raspberries, licorice, violets and scorched earth. Warmer and rounder than the Muncagöta. Very fine.
The taste is taut and structured with lots of polished tannins and fine notes of dried raspberries, damsons, violets and cool tobacco. Very, very long. 8+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)

2007 Barbarsco Riserva Pajé
The six year older Pajé displays some maturity in the shape of canned mushrooms, a hint of truffle and leather alongside fine notes of dried strawberries, mosquito repellent and rosehips. A very fine warmth. Complex.
On the palate this semi mature Barbaresco shows a taut backbone and notes of chrushed strawberries, moist earth, dry licorice and bakelite. Very long and structured. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)




Rattalino
I met Michela in January 2018 when she worked at Brezza. Now she works at Rattalino, located in Barbaresco, so after our visit to the Produttori we headed there. Sadly, we were not that impressed by the wines.


2016 Langhe Nebbiolo 26
Dusty and earthy with low keyed lingonberry fruit and a correct yet simple palate.
82p   (tasted 2018/04)



2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba 27
A warm, dusty nose with some cherry aromas and a tight, dry palate with a warm finish.
83p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barbaresco 42
This is rather good with earthy aromas intermingled with dried strawberries and licorice and the taste is warm, herbal and earthy.
85p   (tasted 2018/04)

2013 Barbaresco Ronche 43
The 13 Ronche shows both depth and concentration on the nose with fine cherry fruit and chrushed rocks.
The taste is structured and fine with sandy tannins and ripe cherry fruit. Medium long. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/04)


2013 Barbaresco Riserva 45
The Riserva mirrors the Ronche but the fruit is more of the dried kind and the tannins are a bit rougher, but it has a good length and some complexity.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)

2013 Barolo 34
Plums, rosehips and old root vegetables in a dusty mix meets the nose when you put it in the glass. The taste is warm and compact with notes of plum brandy, rough tannins and it is rather hollow in the middle.
82p   (tasted 2018/04)


2012 Barolo Bussia 35
A cooked concoction of almonds, ski wax and plums with some road dust tossed in. The taste is warm and concentrated with cooked cherries and gravel. Some alcohol in the finish.
79p   (tasted 2018/04)

2013 Barolo Serralunga 91
A 2013 Barolo saves the day. The nose is refined and perky with notes of ripe red cherries, sweet minerals, licorice and violets. Very fresh compared to the rest of the line up.
The taste is young and tight with sandy tannins and a racy cherry fruit. A fine structure for aging. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)



2011 Barolo Riserva Bussia 37
A big, mature nose with notes of (over) ripe cherries, spices and dark flowers. A bit top heavy.
The taste is big and warm and dries out a bit at the end. But the warmth and the dried cherry fruit is nice.
85p   (tasted 2018/04)

Saturday, 16 February 2019

Alain Brumont At Tegelbacken



I was invited by VinUnic to meet Alain & Laurence Brumont and taste some wines from their excellent estate, alongside lip smacking good food at Tegelbacken.

Last time I had the honour was in 2013 when we tasted two great verticals from Brumont:
Part I - Eleven vintages of Cuvée Prestige
Part II - Nine vintages of La Tyre

The Whites:
2017 La Gascogne 
A flowery, grassy nose with notes of ripening peach, elderberries and chive. Light and nice.
The taste is delicate and easy going with notes of grass, white pepper and a hint of cap gun smoke. Short. Very good. Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc.
86p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Bouscassé Les Jardins Philosophiques
This Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng blend shows a cool, earthy nose with notes of dried flowers, apricots and gravel. Low keyed.
The taste is structured and fine with a very good acidity and notes of minerals, dried apricots and lemon. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/02)



2012 Château Montus Blanc
Oooh boy, this is good! If this had been poured blind I would have bet some serious money on a maturing Puligny-Montrachet. The nose is rich and creamy with notes of melted butter, lemon fudge, yellow flowers and spices. Lovely.
The taste is concentrated and fine with hints of maturity and notes of autumn yellow apples, grilled lemons, spices and sandelwood. Long and lingering. This is a real bargain at 30 Euro.
93p   (tasted 2019/02)

The Reds:
2014 Torus
Light, fresh and fruity on the nose with notes of ripening blueberries and fresh herbs.
The taste is uncomplicated but nice with a mix of lingon- and blueberries and gravel. A good acidity. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Le Pinot Noir d´Alain Brumont
A refined, airy nose with notes of undergrowth, dried raspberries, Asian spices and leather. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and elegant with notes of raspberries, spices and minerals. For drinking now and the coming 10 years.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)



2014 Château Bouscassé
50% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. The nose is cool and earthy with notes of damsons, dried black currants and bakelite.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of warm gravel, blueberries and dried herbs. A long, dry finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2019/02)


2015 Château Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes
The 15 VV sports a deep, refined nose with lots of Bx traits, stables, tobacco, black currants and autumn leaves. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with sandy tannins an notes of black currants, iron and tobacco. Very fine. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Montus
An earthy, stony nose with notes of blueberries, damsons, dry chocolate and bakelite. Not as open and direct as the VV above.
The taste is young and tight with notes of blueberries, iron, forest floor and clay. Long and taut. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)

2015 Château Montus Cuvée Prestige
A beauty! The nose is young and tight but oooh so perfumed, rich and energetic, with notes of ripe black currants, dried blueberries, warm sand, cool tobacco leaves and forest floor. Lovely.
The taste is concentrated and focused with notes of black currants, iron, bakelite, tobacco and clay. Very long, intense and balanced. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/02



2000 Château Montus Cuvée Prestige
This 19 year old wine seems, yes, a bit old. If I didn´t know the provenance of this bottle I would say it has been stored a bit too warm. It is a good wine but not as great as it was in the 2013 tasting were I noted that it should be cellared for 7+ years. It feels more like this had been cellared for 17 years.
The nose is big, ripe and outgoing with notes of wet earth, dog fur, cooked red and black currants and dades. Smells like a Bx from the 60´s which have been stored warm.
The taste is big, round and dry with dried up sweetness and notes of damp earth, cooked black fruit, and pipe tobacco. A tad dry at the end.
86p   (tasted 2019/02)

2010 La Tyre
This is a stunner with a very deep, refined, inky nose with notes of ripe blueberries, violets, dried dark flowers, chrushed rocks and veal meat. Broad shouldered yet very refined. Has some Syrah like aromas. Gorgeous.
The taste is tight and concentrated with layer upon layer of really ripe black fruits - currants, blueberries, blackberries - alongside notes of expensive tobacco, damp earth, violets and meat. Very, very long. Impressive stuff that will need 6 more years in the cellar.
96p   (tasted 2019/02)




Friday, 15 February 2019

1979 Rioja Bordón Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Españolas


1979 Rioja Bordón Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Españolas
A finely matured nose with notes of cooked strawberries, smoke, dill oil, shoe cream and wet earth. Complex and fine. Holds all night long.
The taste is round, silky and dry with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, cooked root vegetables and moist earth. A long finish with a fine warmth. Very, very good. Has probably been mature for some years but bottles like this could be drunk with pleasure for another 5+ years.
88p   (tasted 2019/02)

Tuesday, 12 February 2019

2004 Fontalloro, Fèlsina


2004 Fontalloro, Fèlsina
After 15 years under the cork this is ready for prime time drinking. The nose is open, inviting and attractive with notes of cherry licorice, dried rosemary, cold coffe, rich flowers and those lovely aromas of a warm Tuscan gravel road in the summer. A very fine maturity. A very fine dried up sweetness. Lovely.
The taste is mature yet fresh and salivating with notes of dried cherries, warm tiles, bonfire smoke and dried herbs. There is a hint of unresolved tannins at the end of the finish. Succulent and fine. In a perfect drinking window.
92p   (tasted 2019/02)


Sunday, 10 February 2019

2013 Barolo Villero - Eight Bottles Tasted


I love the 2013 vintage in Barolo. I have previously written this about the vintage:

What to say about the vintage then? The one thing that striked us when tasting these wines is that - even though there are minor and major differences between for example the wines from La Morra compared to the ones from Serralunga or the differences between upbringing in old Slavonian oak or barriques (although the major part of the producers that have been using barriques are cutting down on the time the wines spends in them or abandoning them altogether) - all wines showed a racy, energetic freshness.

They are more floral than usual, the red fruits are more forward (especially strawberries - some are almost Burgundian like), there is a sweet/sour sensation to the fruit that is really fine, the tannins are sappy and very silky, and they are very fresh, lively, vibrant and almost gulpable.

Are these wines for the short term then? They will not need as much time as the 2006 or 2010 to come around, but make no mistake, even though they seem almost ligth and airy there are more stuffing to them than are immediate noticable. I must confess being smitten by this vintage and will buy plenty (update - I have...).

2013 Barolo Villero
I had amassed bottles from all (but one, Pugnane Fratelli Sordo) wine growers that bottle a Villero (except for those that only make a Riserva, Franco Molino and Vietti (from 2015/2016 there are two more producers that will release a Villero, Francesco Sobrero (only Riserva) and Angelo Germano)).
It turned out to be a interesting tasting, held in May of last year.

Villero lies in Castiglione Falletto, the area is 22,07 ha and Nebbiolo makes up 90% of the vines. Alessandro Masnaghetti describes Villero´s soil with "the typical marls of Castiglione Falletto, which give....more structure and less finesse".
That turned out to be a fair assessment. These were no upfront charmers, but more restrained and backward, more earthy and mineraly than fruit forward and floral.
However, I will venture that will age well and become more open and inviting in due course,

Flight I
2013 Barolo Villero, Sordo
A dark fruity, seedy nose with notes of spices, licorice, asphalt and chrushed rocks. Medium deep.
The taste is tight and structured with notes of spices, earth, dried red fruits and bakelite. Long and seedy. Definitely needs time, 8+ years.
87p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Villero, Oddero
On the nose there are some cool mixed red fruits alongside notes of earth, clay, dark roses and tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is pure and racy with notes of red currants, plums, earth and a hint of mint. Long and balanced. Tight tannins. This is really fine and will become even better with 5+ years in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Villero, Giuseppe Mascarello
A cool, restrained nose with a light earthy character and notes of red currants, red tea, bakelite and forest floor. An understated elegance. Very, very good.
The taste is cool, deceptively light (the only wine with ”just” 13,5% alcohol) with fine red fruit notes, sandy tannins and a long, balanced finish. For drinking now and the coming 10 years. Lovely.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Livia Fontana
The Fontana displays an open, warm nose with notes of soot, dried red fruit, tobacco and earth. A fine warmth. Round and fairly generous.
The taste is more tight than the nose leads you to believe, with structured tannins, ripe cherry fruit and a long, concentrated finish. 4+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)


Flight II
2013 Barolo Villero, Fenocchio
A deep, fine, flowery nose with notes of dried roses, red currants, clay and dry tobacco. A fine balsamic note. Very deep and fine.
The taste is concentrated and focused with notes of ripe red cherries, forest floor, asphalt, minerals and tobacco. Very long and intense. Finely polished tannins. Wait 5+ years and this will be spectacular.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Enrico VI, Cordero di Montezemolo
A whole other ballgame! Oak, lots of oak, in an oaked Rioja style… Very ripe cherry fruit, spices and earth, but its covered by the oak.
The taste is dry and warm with lots of oak and cherry fruit. On this occasion, not good. (I retasted all wines two days after and then the oak had drastically subdued and the fruit came forward much more.) But on the night in question it will get
84p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Villero, Brovia
Brovia has fashioned a stunning Villero, with a deep, balanced, complex nose with notes of violets, roses, paint and masses of ripe red currants and red cherries. A touch of bonfire after a while. Handsome. Really fine.
The taste is concentrated and racy with notes of chrushed rocks, dried red fruits, clay, a hint of tobacco and roses. The tannins are perfectly polished. Very, very young still, this beauty needs 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Boroli
A deep, spicy nose with notes of forest floor, dried strawberries, moist earth and a touch of dog fur. A tad burly in a good way.
The taste is dark and tight with notes of red cherries, mushrooms, tobacco and earth. Some rustic tannins. Long and warm. Very good. 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/05)



Friday, 8 February 2019

Drinking Tonight - 2007 Volnay, Bernard & Thierry Glantenay


2007 Volnay, Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
A fine, open, earthy nose with notes of dried strawberries, spices, ripe parsnips, blood oranges and some animal scents lingering in the background. A fine sweetness. Smoky aromas after some time in the glass. A lovely round maturity.
The taste is medium bodied, velvety and fine with notes of dried raspberries, autumn leaves, earth, dried up cookie dough and hints of raspberry vinegar. A well suited acidity that brings a harmonious ending. Fully mature and drinking fine.
89p   (tasted 2019/02)

Thursday, 7 February 2019

Long Overdue Notes - The Barolo Boys In Piedmont April 2018 - Part One - Visits To Abbona, Luigi Einaudi & Brovia


These notes have been lying around for too long. But now when The Barolo Boys have booked their next trip to heaven on earth (we are going in late March!) I thought it was time to get myself together and write down my impression from our trip in April 2018. More to follow.

Abbona
Our second visit to Abbona, the last one was eight years ago. We met up with a very nice and knowledgeable member of the Abbona staff but I regrettably didn´t wrote down his name.., who showed us the new cellars (at least new since our last visit) and then poured a range of fine wines.



Some wines for us to taste...
2016 Cinerino
A 100% Viognier brought up in Accacia wood, a popular vessel nowadays for white wines. The nose is open and fruity with notes of passionfruit, toothpaste, warm rocks and incense. A tad heavy.
The taste is broad and deep with notes of ripe peach, grilled lemons and minerals. Juicy and good but, for me, the acidity is too low.
84p   (tasted 2018/04)



2016 Dogliabo Papà Celso
This Dolcetto comes from 25 year old vines and is a stunner. The nose is young and inky with notes of ripe blueberries, smoke, herbs and dark rubber. Intense and fine.
The taste is racy and lip smacking good with notes of ripe blueberries, ink, thyme and warm tiles. A medium long, balanced finish with some perky tannins. Really good.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Rinaldi
Rinaldi is the name of the vineyard. This Barbera sports a warm, spicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, licorice and undergrowth. A fine warmth.
The taste is big and forward with notes of raspberry licorice, herbs and a hint of chocolate. A long, warm finish with a good acidity. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)



2016 Nebbiolo d´Alba Bricco Barone
The Nebbiolo´s from 2016 indicates what we can look forward to in 2020 when the 16 Baroli will be released and its going to be goooood... The nose of this Nebbiolo is cool, restrained and balanced with notes of rose petals, red cherries, asphalt and forest floor. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and refined with notes of red cherries, lingonberries, mushrooms and rosehips. Finely polished tannins. Very fine.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo
As with some other producers Abbona doesn´t produce the cru´s in 14, just this blend that has a light, spicy nose with notes of fir wood, dried herbs, ripening cherries and gravel. Very nice.
The taste is young and sprawly and shows a good lingonberry/cherry fruit alongside notes of dry licorice and gravel. For drinking while we wait for the 13´s. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2018/04)


2011 Barolo Ravera
The 11 Ravera displays an open, generous nose with notes of dark cherries, soya, moist undergrowth and some animal scents. Very, very good.
The taste is warm and rounf with notes of sweet red cherries, Finnish licorice, fried mushrooms and bakelite. Ready for action and I will take that action any day. A bit idiosyncratic but highly likeable.
91p   (tasted 2018/04)

2012 Barolo Pressenda
A deep, finely tuned nose with notes of smoke, ripe cherries, tobacco and warm sand. Deep floral notes after some time in the glass. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe black cherries, tobacco, rust and dried flowers. A long, structured finish. 5+ years. 
92p   (tasted 2018/04)



2011 Barolo Cerviano
The first Cerviano was bottled in 2004 and this vintage is my first taste of this cru. Brought up as a Riserva but it is not stated on the label.
The nose is deep and fine with notes of dried strawberries, smoke, autumn leaves and some balsmic notes. Very fine. A lovely perfumed aroma. 
The taste is cool and refined with notes of wild strawberries, dried rose petals, a hint of tobacco and mushrooms. Complex and fine. Very long and balanced. Great wine. 3+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/04)



Poderi Luigi Einaudi
My first visit to this estate. We were meet by Vittoria Abbona who showed us the beautiful cellars and the surroundings, among them a bottle shaped pool! We then got to taste the following wines.




2016 Dogliano Superiore Vigna Tecc
An open, seedy nose with refreshing herbal scents and a fine mix of raspberries and blueberries. Some iron and violets also emerges from the glass. Energetic.
The taste is cool and tight with notes of blueberries, ink, chrushed rocks and herbs. Juicy and very fine.
88p   (tasted 2018/04)



2014 Barolo Ludo
A perfumed, fine nose with notes of damson, ripe flowers, rosehips and soap. A bit on the light side but with a fine sappy fruit.
The taste is medium bodied and tense with notes of ripe lingonberries, forest floor, dried flowers and gravel. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/04)

2014 Barolo Terlo Vigna Santa Grimaldi
Only 5.706 bottles of this beauty was produced in this difficult vintage. The nose is deep and uplifting with notes of dark berries, iron, rosehips, asphalt and warm sand. High and pure. Very, very good.
The taste is sandy and spicy with notes of hard cherry candy, iron, sand and dark flowers. A long, seedy, tight finish. Needs 4+ years. Really fine.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)



2014 Barolo Cannubi
Aaaah Cannubi! The name alone promises a treat, and the one from Einaudi delieveres the goods. The nose is darker and deeper than the Terlo and offers up aromas of fresh herbs, ripe black cherries, moist forest floor, tobacco and warm tiles. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of cherry licorice, tobacco, asphalt and herbs, rosemary in particular. The finish is long and structured. Will need 8+ years. There is more stuffing here for the future but for today it is on the same level as the Terlo.
92p   (tasted 2018/04)



2012 Barolo Cannubi
Does the Pope wear a funny hat? That was the response I almost gave when Vittoria asked if we were interested in tasting another vintage of the Cannubi...
The 12 Cannubi has a deep, dark floral nose with notes of violets, moist earth, rosemary, veal stock and warm sand. A very fine warmth. Fairly open for business. Very fine.
The taste is concentrated and sandy with notes of ripe red cherries, iron, undergrowth, bakelite and asphalt. Very fine polished tannins. A very fine warmth in the long finish. I would say that it would benefit of 3+ years in the cellar but there is no denying its charm and drinkability today.
93p   (tasted 2018/04)


Brovia
It is always a treat to visit Brovia and meet up with Alex, one of the most charming winemaker in the region. This time we got a preview of two of the 15 Baroli alongside some other stunning wines.



2016 Dolcetto d´Alba Vignavillej
Not bottled yet, this gorgeous Serralunga Dolcetto leaps up from the glass with aromas of earth, ripening blueberries, heather, herbs and violets. Very fresh and racy.
The taste is sandy and fresh with a mix of lingonberries and blueberries alongside notes of whitepeppar, chrushed rocks and herbs. Very handsome.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Sori del Drago
An open, direct nose with notes of ripe raspberries, licorice, balsa wood and sunwarm rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is energetic and fresh with notes of raspberries with some blueberries tossed in, sweet minerals, licorice and a hint of tobacco. A very fine acidity. Every sip leaves you wanting one more!
91p   (tasted 2018/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Ciaböt del Fi
Just wooow! The best Barbera I have ever tasted (until tasting Aldo Conterno´s 2016 in November 2018, note will soon be posted). The nose is just brilliant with energy, depth and balance. Boatloads of raspberry truffles, dark biscuits, red beets, blood and smoke. Very, very deep and intense.
The taste is deceptively light to drink despite its intensity, power and structure. Perfectly ripe raspberries, Finnish licorice, pipe tobacco, sweet violets and iron are just a few notes that got jotted down. Absolutely stunning!
95p   (tasted 2018/04)



2014 Barolo Unio
Alex also decided to not bottle any cru´s in 2014, so this Unio is the only Barolo produced. The nose is medium deep, finely tuned and racy with notes of hard cherry candy, earth, red beets and wild roses. Very fragrant.
The taste is a bit restrained but show of fine notes of red cherries, ripe lingonberries, earth and dried herbs. A fine structure that needs 3+ years to open up. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2018/04)

2015 Barolo Rocche di´Castiglione
A pure, dense, focused nose with notes of ripe red cherries, cool tobacco, rosehips, paint and fir wood. Full of finesse and intensity. Very, very deep. Balanced. Just lovely.
This wine has a gorgeous mouthfeel, a lot of power yet with a balance and tension that makes you want to take sip after sip. A stunning wine. From vines planted in 1966 and 68. 8+ years.
96p   (tasted 2018/04)


2015 Barolo Villero
The 15 Villero is even better. From 1,5 ha planted in 1961 and 63. The nose is bottomless deep with haunting notes of dried raspberries, fir wood, dry tobacco, licorice and a ever so slight hint of mint. Marvellous!
The taste is brilliantly pure and racy with notes of black cherries, raspberries, smoke, violets and minty herbs. The finish goes on and on and on. A must have!
97p   (tasted 2018/04)