Wednesday 23 August 2017

Rossese Di Dolceacqua - A Visit To Tenuta Anfosso

We visited Liguria again this summer for the first time in four years time. Great to be back in my favourite part (ecxept for Langhe of course!) of Italy.
Last time we were there I made my first visit to Tenuta Anfosso. It was high time for a revisit and see what have happened at this great wine grower.

I was meet by Alessandro and we were soon at it again, as I remembered it from the last time, he explaining something in Italian with a few words of English and I asking question in English with a few words of Italian wedged in...
Luckily Alessandros wife Marisa came to the rescue after a while with her good English!

2016 Dolceacqua Eprie
This is a wine from Alessandro´s son Lorenzo, the 7th generation that makes wine here, impressing! 100% Rossese, a blend of grapes from Poggio Pini and Fulavin. The nose is light and spicy with notes of dried raspberries, licorice and black pepper. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied and dry with notes of ripe lingonberries, spice and earth. A medium long finish with a fine warmth. Again, very good.
86p   (tasted 2017/07)

2015 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Fulavin
A new bottling from the cru Fulavin. It has a deep, smoky nose with notes of ripe raspberries, fried herbs and a hint of a barnyard in a distance.
The taste is tight and warm with notes of spicy raspberries, smoke and tobacco. A long, warm finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2017/07)

2014 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Poggio Pini
The Poggio Pini is usually my favourite among Alessandro´s wine, and the 2014 was no exception. The nose soars fron the glass with aromas of fresh spices, ripe raspberries, earth, expensive soap and a hint of balsamic vinegar. Deep and complex, and at the same time light and inviting. Great!
The taste is young, tight and complex with notes of raspberries, black pepper, scorched earth and leather. Very long and lingering. Delicate. This is really fine.
I bought a couple of bottles before I left and I retasted one bottle of the Poggio Pini some days later and my impressions were the same.
93p   (tasted 2017/07)

2014 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Luvaira
The Luvaira is usually more dense and dark than the Poggio Pini, and this is, with a nose filled with ripe wild raspberries, bonfire smoke, freshly grounded black pepper and moist earth.
The taste is big and upfront with notes of dark raspberries, Finnish licorice, fried herbs and bonfire. A long, warm finish with sandy tannins. Peppery in the end of the finish. Very fine.
91p   (tasted 2017/07)

(2016) Antea
Alessandro then asked (I think...) if I wanted to taste the new vintage of the Antea from cask. Would I!
The grapes for Antea is Rossese Bianco di San Biagio, an extremely rare Ligurian grape, and the vines are older than 1888! Earlier vintages has only got steel tank treatment before bottling but starting with the 16 the wine will get some time in Accacia wood (just like the Sauvignon Dives from Burlotto).
The nose is deep and large scaled with notes of ripe oranges, white flowers, dry fudge and some white pepper scents. Has a oaked Chardonnay feeling about it. But this was straight from the cask, it will get 1/3 in wood and 2/3 in steel tank before bottling. Very deep and fine.
The taste is broad and deep with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, grilled lemons and sweet minerals. Very long with a fine acidity. Looking forward to tasting it after bottling.
91p   (tasted 2017/07)

During out time in Liguria I found some other bottles from Tenuta Anfosso in entoecas and bought and tasted them.

2014 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore
The Normale Rossese displays a young, perky nose with notes of lingonberries, dark orange peel, spices and a hint of ginger bread. Medium deep. Nice.
The taste is cool and peppery with notes of cranberries, lingonberries, cigarette ash and herbs. A fine balance. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2017/07)

(2015) Antea
The (15) Antea is a whole another expression than the barrel sample of the 2016. The nose is upfront and nice with notes of tangerines, dry honey, warm rocks and white pepper. Very, very good.
The taste is medium bodied with notes of dried pine apple, chalk, warm grass and dried flowers. Very good but the 16 had more intensity and charm.
87p   (tasted 2017/07)

(2016) Sctacau
Tenuta Anfosso´s rosé with the new label. From the 2016 vintage the labels will be white instead of black. This rosé sports a fresh, juicy nose with notes of ripening strawberries, salmiak and roses. Uplifting and salivating.
The taste is fresh and dry with notes of wild strawberries, rose petals and earth. A fine acidity. Very, very good. A fine dryness at the end.
88p   (tasted 2017/08)

Looking forward to my next visit too Alessandro and Marisa!

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