Monday 12 December 2022

15 Bottles Of Monvigliero

14 of the 15 bottles tasted. The Pietro Rinaldi arrived the day before the tasting.

Monvigliero has made a great journey to famedome over the last 10 years. Before that, the quiet town of Verduno was largely forgotten when the great MGA´s of Barolo was discussed.
Not anymore, now everyone wants a slice of Monvigliero.

The MGA is 25,51 ha of which 88,5% is planted with Nebbiolo. Up to the 2018 vintage, according to Masnaghetti, there are 21 producers who owns a piece here and makes a Barolo.

We tasted 14 of those on this evening, and one producer who buys grapes.
I will comment on the progression or decline on day two. There were about 10 cl left in all bottles and they were kept cold with just a inserted corks until the following evening.

Flight I
2017 Barolo Monvigliero, La Bioca
A fine depth, there is some oaky notes but there also are nice fruit in the shape of chrushed cherries and notes of fir wood, licorice and earth. 
The taste is young and tight with notes of dark cherries, dry licorice and a nice perfumed note, with am oaky overcoat. 
On day two the oak had receded on the nose but the taste was the same. Notes from a visit to the estate here - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To La Bioca & Reva
86p   (tasted 2022/11)


2017 Barolo Monvigliero, Pietro Rinaldi
An open, cool nose with notes of red cherries, violets, dry licorice and a perfumed scent. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and focused with a fine cherry fruit, dry licorice and bakelite. Silky tannins. 6+ years.
Behaved exactly the same on day two.
88p   (tasted 2022/11)

2016 Barolo Monvigliero, Wongraven
This wine is made from bought grapes by Sigurd Wongraven, the singer (and more) of Satyricon. The nose is deep and fine with some VA initially, and notes of red cherries, earth and Christmas spices.
The taste is young and tight with notes of orange peel, red currants and forest floor. The tannins are a bit foursquare.
A tad thinner the second day.
86p   (tasted 2022/11)



My version of carne cruda with onion gravy, parmesan and truffle

2016 Barolo Monvigliero, Cascina Massara
A deep, somewhat smoky nose woth notes of ripe red fruits, undergrowth, dry licorice and rosehips.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of red cherries, orange peel, spices and tobacco. A fine length. Very, very good. 6+ years.
Performed on the same level day two.
88p   (tasted 2022/11)


2015 Barolo Monvigliero, Brangero
A very deep, spicy nose with notes of violets, ripe cherries, orange peel and fresh herbs. This is fine.
The taste is dry and refined with fine, black fruits, glossy tannins and a long, firm finish. Needs 8+ years.
Equally fine day two.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)

Flight II
2014 Barolo Monvigliero, Cadia
From a supposedly weak vintage, this beauty offers up a ethereal nose with notes of red currants, wild strawberries, earth and rosehips. Very fine.
The taste is elegant and racy with a fine, perfumed fruit, silky tannins and a medium long, handsome finish. For drinking sooner than later, but drinking perfect now. As good as it was when I visited Cadia - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Diego Morra, Cadia & Poderi Roset
Equally fine day two.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)


2013 Barolo Monvigliero, Arnaldo Rivera
Oak, oak and oak. I have a high tolerance for oak but sometimes its too much, even for me. There are som dark cherries and smoke in the background.
The taste is also dominated by oak, but maybe a tad less so. On day two the oak had receded somewhat but its still the dominant part of the wine. Wait 10 years and cross your fingers.
80p   (tasted 2022/11)

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Poderi Roset
I was impressed by this when I tasted it at the estate - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Diego Morra, Cadia & Poderi Roset - and its showed of the same quality on this night. 
The nose is deep and intense with notes of red cherries, earth, licorice and incense. Very fine.
The taste is tight and fine with lovely cherry fruit, notes of licorice, spices and earth, and with a long finish. 4+ years.
Behaved exactly the same on day two.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)


Mushroom ragu with fried sweetbread

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Bel Colle
A deep, somewhat restrained nose with notes of mushrooms, cherries, rosehips and smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is finely balanced and earthy with notes of red cherries, licorice and asphalt. Needs some more years in the cellar, 6+ years.
More earthy on day two but equally good.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)

2011 Barolo Monvigliero, Sordo
A mature, open nose with notes of dried raspberries, wood smoke, dry licorice and earth. Seems more mature than a 11 year old Barolo should be.
The taste is large scaled and forward with notes of coffee powder, forest floor, dried red fruits and fir wood. A tad foursquare. Almost fully mature. I was more impressed by the 13 Monvigliero when I visited the estate - Barolista: Two Days In Piedmont - A Visit To Giovanni Sordo.
Behaved the same on day two.
85p   (tasted 2022/11)

Flight III
2013 Barolo Monvigliero, Fratelli Alessandria
A pure, handsome nose with notes of Langhe earth, red cherries, mushrooms, rosehips and paint. Refined. Very fine.
The taste is intense and balanced with great fruit, silky tannins and long, pure finish. Still going places. 6+ years. Notes from a visit to Fratelli Alessandria - Barolista: The Barolo Boys Visit Fratelli Alessandria, Francesco Rinaldi & Marengo.
Behaved the same on day two.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)


2013 Barolo Monvigliero, Burlotto
The bottle that now cost as much as all the others combined... Not Fabios fault though. One of the most charming winemaker around - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - One Intense, Diligent, Nebbiolo Filled Saturday.
The 2013 Monvigliero displays a deep, balanced nose with notes of rowan berries, sweet/salt licorice, earth and incense. Complex and fine.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of red cherries, rosehips, shoe polish and earth. Very fine.
This improved much over the night, from a very, very good wine, to a great one. 4+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/11)

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Diego Morra
A very fine, cool, elegant nose with notes of red currants, tar, earth and hints of tobacco. A fine intensity.
The taste is nicely concentrated, pure and fine with assorted red fruits and sleek tannins. A very fine structure. 6+ years. Diego has one of the largest pieces of Monvigliero - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Diego Morra, Cadia & Poderi Roset.
Equally fine on day two.
93p   (tasted 2022/11)


Lamb with herb oil and macaroni & cheese on the side

2012 Barolo Monvigliero, Paolo Scavino
The winner in the vote for best wine of the flight (the others tasted semi blind). I had the Fratelli Alessandria as the best then.
The nose is deep and intense with gorgeous notes of ripe red cherries, salt licorice, forest floor and mahogany. Very fine.
The taste is tight and velvety with stunning fruit and notes of almonds, earth, rosehips and whiffs of tobacco. Very long. 5+ years.
Notes from my two latest visits to Elisa - Barolista: Paolo Scavino - Two Fantastic Visits With Elisa Scavino.
Very fine on day two.
93p   (tasted 2022/11)


2010 Barolo Riserva Monvigliero, Castello di Verduno
A very fine, deep and a tad mature nose with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, dried flowers and fine tobacco. A fine balance.
The taste is elegant and with a beginning maturity. Fine notes of dried strawberries, earth, rosehips and paint. Long and distinct. Notes from a visit to the estate - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To Giovanni Rosso & Castello Di Verduno.
Actually felt younger day two, so no hurry to drink up.
93p   (tasted 2022/11)

No comments:

Post a Comment