Monday 28 October 2013

A Spanish Dinner

My friend Oscar invited a couple of the usual wine geeks to dinner a few days back. Since Oscar is of Spanish origin, guesses always tend to lead to that sunny land when the wines are poured double blind...

NV La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada, Equipo Navaros
A fine, elegant nose with notes of salted nuts, wet sand, dried flowers and the fatty scent from Pata Negra. Intense and very salivating.
The taste is pure, fresh and lively with a lovely salty taste and notes of nuts, wet rocks, dried flowers and dry grass. Long and fine. I drink Sherry to seldom!
89p   (tasted 2013/10)

With some yummy Pata Negra and other delicatessen we were served three glasses of bubbly.
2002 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club
An open, fine nose with notes of red apples, elderberries, dry caramel and some flowery scents. Elegant and pure. A very fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste feels younger and tighter than the nose with notes of lemon peel, elderberries and gravel. A very fine acidity. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2013/10)

2002 Reserva Particular Gran Reserva, Recaredo
A mature, broad nose with notes of dried flowers, dry nuts, wet earth and a touch of dog food. I think this has passed it best-before-date.
The taste is better but is a touch foursquare with notes of dried flowers, yellow apples and some soapy flavours. The acidity is high but the fruit isn´t really there to lend support.
76p   (tasted 2013/10)

2004 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva, Recaredo
This bubbly from Recaredo is much better - the nose is fresh and lively with notes of lily of the valley, sweet lemons, assorted nuts and gravel. Not that much depth but very nice.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of dried flowers, lemon peel, gravel and some smoke. A medium long finish. Good.
85p   (tasted 2013/10)

NV Cordon Negro Seco, Freixenet
Talk about a surprise! This bottle, that is produced in millions each year, have been stored in some really bad (for wine) enviroments over the last 12-14 years. And yet, it behaves really well. The nose is mature, ripe and interesting with notes of creamy lemons, yellow apples and a touch of old chocolate. Good.
The taste is rather thin but also quite fresh with notes of mature yellow apples, dusty earth, nuts and a touch of detergent. That´s obviously the trick - keep it in daylight and warm surroundings for 10+ years and you could actually enjoy it...
81p   (tasted 2013/10)

1985 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Paolo Scavino
A deep, smooth, mature nose with gorgeous notes of ceps, undergrowth, red currants, tobacco and old leather. A very fine warmth. Almost fully mature, this delivers a lot of pleasure.
The taste is round, mature and ripe with notes of red currants, lingonberry bushes, mushrooms, tobacco and rosehips. A long, satisfying finish. Warm and fine. The tannins is a tad dry in the end of the finish. A great bottle of mature Barolo (although I guessed something else...) but it was not in the league of the bottle tasted last year.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

1954 Viña Tondonia, R. Lopez de Heredia
The star of the evening, this 59 year old wine showed why we cellar wines and which complexity that can come out of many years beneath the cork. The nose is beautifully old fashioned, with lovely notes of fresh stables, dried strawberries, pipe tobacco, parsnip puree and some refined dill notes. Complex and utterly hedonistic.
The taste is velvety but with a firm backbone deep inside the taste. Stunning notes of dried strawberries, lingonberry cake, mushrooms, dill and old tobacco leaves. A very fine structure. The finish goes on for over a minute. Fresh as a daisy. A privilige to drink.
96p   (tasted 2013/10)

1989 Vina Pedrosa Gran Reserva, Bodegas Hnos. Pérez Pascuas
Oscar exposed us for a little prank - glass 3 and 5 was the same wine, out of a magnum. Looking at my notes in hindsight, they seem almost identical, but to be fair, not exactly identical - that´s blind tasting for you...
The nose is big, mature and ripe with notes of strawberries marinated in balsamic vinegar, autumn leaves, sugared coffee, dill and dark fudge. A big hearted nose and its just lovely. Perfect maturity.
The taste is more tight and seedy than the nose with lots of black cherries, dried strawberries, coffee powder and dark fudge. A very, long, warm finish. Drinking great on this night, out of both glasses...:-)
91p   (tasted 2013/10)

1990 Barolo Pajana, Domenico Clerico
A perennial favourite of mine, the first vintage of Pajana. This was the only wine were I didn´t think that we were in Spain. It had to many Barolo markers to be anything else, and for once I was right...
The nose is singing out of the glass with stunning notes of sweet red cherries, rosehips, ceps, Christmas spices, black olive tapenade and licorice. Deep and refined. This is slowly heading towards maturity, but still has lots to offer. Great!
The taste is all about sweet red cherries, red licorice, saddle leather, rosehips and lots and lots of ceps. It still has some hefty tannins, that show themselves in the minute long finish. The perfect match to the succulent deer main course.
96p   (tasted 2013/10)

2001 Viña El Pison, Artadi
A deep, meaty, intense nose with notes of black cherries, licorice, new leather, coffee and some balsamic notes. Elegant. Still young, this has potential. A very fresh, ripe fruit.
The taste is big, tight and concentrated with sweet cherry fruit and notes of licorice, sugared coffee, warm tiles and leather. Perky tannins. This could use 4-6 years in the cellar. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2013/10)

1994 Reserva Especial, Pesquera
Pesquera does it again - a totally undrinkable mess. It smells of blood orange juice and adhesive and taste like mud that have been mixed with some orange juice.
I bought three bottle of the 94 Janus a long time ago - one was fine, the other two was just like this one. I don´t know what Pesquera did during the nineties, but it wasn´t good.
53p   (tasted 2013/10)

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