Monday 7 October 2013

Six Bottles of Chablis Les Clos

At our latest tasting group get together Håkan presented us with this interesting line up of one of the best Grand Cru´s in Chablis, if not the greatest IMHO.
Tasted double blind.

2010 Chablis Les Clos, Christian Moreau
A young, cool nose with notes of peach kernels, almond paste, shellfish shells and lots of chalk. Very good. Opens up nicely. Still very young.
The taste is young, tight and fairly elegant wiht notes of white peaches, lemon peel and chalk. A high, fine acidity. Needs 3-5 years to really open up. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2013/09)

2008 Chablis Les Clos, Christian Moreau
I´m really fond of the white Burgundy´s from 2008, and here is another stellar example. The nose is deep and refined with lovely notes of white peach, yellow apples, wet stones, cap gun smoke and a hint of butter. Very, very fine.
The taste is youngish but with some signs of evolvement and notes of yellow apples, white flowers, a touch of licorice and lots of chalk. A racy acidity. Long and elegant. This is great, and there are room for more improvement over the next 4-6 years.
93p (tasted 2013/09)

2007 Chablis Les Clos, Christian Moreau
The 07 version of Moreau´s Le Clos is more closed than the 08 and you have to really coax the glass to get some notes of grey pears, chalk and pressed summer flowers. Very cool and laid back. Very, very good. Opens up a bit when it gets warmer but this will always behave restrained.
The taste is still young and fresh with notes of white peach, grey pears and lots of minerals. A fine form of dry sweetness. Long and fine. This is good!
90p   (tasted 2013/09)

2005 Chablis Les Clos, Louis Michel
Before the bottles were presented, most of us had guessed that the theme were white Burgundy. This however could have been a dark horse. The nose is bigger and riper than the others and the aromatic profile is different - grassy, candle-grease and some stable notes. I thought Chenin Blanc.
And that thought is supported by the taste - a fresh, high acidity with notes of ripe yellow apples, oilcloth, warm grass and lots of minerals. There is some warmth in the finish. Good but a tad clumpsy.
85p   (tasted 2013/09)

2004 Chablis Les Clos, William Fevre
A young, concentrated, intense nose with notes of ripe pears, freshly baked bread, dried flowers, smoke and sweet minerals. A high, pure nose. Very, very good. Some almond paste when it gets warmer. Very deep.
The taste is tight and focused with lovely sweet yellow fruit supported by a striking acidity and fine balance. The finish is long and fresh with notes of pears, summer flowers and lots of chalk. Still young, this should benefit even further with 4-6 years in the cellar. Impressive.
92p   (tasted 2013/09)

2009 Chablis Les Clos, Verget
I´ll admit it - I´m a sucker for the wines from Verget! They (most often) have a combination of hedonism and structure that I really like. And this was no exception. The nose soars up from the glass with scents of ripe peaches, buttercup flowers, cold butter, chalk and cap gun smoke. With air a lovely perfumed note emerge. And some hints of fudge. Just gorgeous.
The taste is pure, intense and velvety with notes of white peaches, yellow pears, summer flowers, warm grass, fudge and lots of sweet minerals. There is a creamy acidity here that is stunning. Great wine for drinking now and the coming 10+ years.
95p   (tasted 2013/09)


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