Saturday 14 March 2015

1990 Echezeaux Tasting Dinner

I had amassed a nice group of Echezeaux bottles from the 1990 vintage. Time to taste them with some other bottles and some nice food!

We started with an old bubbly. Since it wasn´t really up to par, I opened a youngster too.
1966 Cuvée N. F. Billecart, Billecart Salmon
A big, round and mature nose with notes of vanilla custard, old wrinkled apples, dried up nuts and almond paste. A little lose on the edges.
The taste is mature and creamy with notes of dried yellow fruits, stale nuts and vanilla that has passed its best before date. A hint of bubbles on the tongue. Clearly drinkable but I had higher hopes. Ah, well.
85p   (tasted 2015/03)

2008 Louis Roederer
I opened this as a replacement since I recently bought some bottles and was curious. What a wine! The nose soars up from the glass with gorgeous notes of lime peel, pear candy, elderberries and lots of sweet minerals. Very classy. Young of course, this is going places.
The taste is racy, refined and divine with notes of pear juice, red apples, lime, liquorice and wet stones. The acidity is stunning. A long, long, balanced and intense finish. Great wine! Lets see if I can get hold of some more.
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

For the first course I grilled a couple of scallops with salsify and a white wine sauce, to along these two white Burgundies.
1996 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combottes, Etienne Sauzet
This is what mature Burgundy is all about. A stunning nose with notes of lemon cello, sweet/sour lemons, almond paste and cap gun smoke. A fine, salty scent. Very deep. Lovely.
The taste is intense and creamy with notes of sweet/sour lemons, lemon cream, dried flowers and crushed rocks. A long, velvety finish with a fine acidity. A lovely texture. Very classy. Perfectly mature.
94p   (tasted 2015/03)

1996 Bienvenues Batard.Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet
We were not as lucky with the Ramonet bottle. There is some premox notes here, burnt butter, old apples and toffee. Not bad but not what Ramonet can be.
The taste is big and brawny with notes of ripe yellow apples, yellow beets, dark fudge and a hot feeling. Passable, but not good.
82p   (tasted 2015/03)

With the first flight we had a Pigeon- and Foie Gras Terrine (bought, not made) with a salad.
1990 Echezeaux, Raoul Clerget
This new acquaintance for me has produced a really fine bottle of Burgundy. The nose is deep, mature and slightly meaty with notes of dark raspberries, forest floor, animal fur and cooked root vegetables. Very, very good. Old fashioned.
The taste is round and mature with lots of warm red cherries and raspberries with additional notes of old leather, moist undergrowth, veal stock and rosehips. A long finish with a good acidity. This is in a perfect drinking stage.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Jaboulet-Vercherre
I have tasted some bottles from this producers over the years and they have never really excelled. This one faired really well though. The nose is warm and a bit murky with notes of ripe raspberries, mature red apples, liquorice and pine scents. A fine warmth. Very good.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of red currants, dried raspberries, beet roots and rosehips. A long, balanced finish with some Christmas spices. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Christian Michel
Another new producer for me and another stunner! The nose is mature, round and full of lovely forest aromas alongside notes of mashed raspberries, hard raspberry candy, spices and parsnips. Deep and fine, with a fine sweetness to the fruit. Really fine.
The taste is big and balanced with a lovely intensity and sports notes of raspberry coulis, cigar smoke, forest floor and Christmas spices. A long, concentrated finish. This could be cellared for another 5+ years. Great!
93p   (tasted 2015/03)

For the second flight I had prepared a sweetbread and morel risotto.
1990 Echezeaux, Domaine du Clos Frantin
The second flight starts with a nicely matured Burgundy, with fine notes of smoky raspberries, warn herbs, rosehips and a touch of bacon. Very, very good.
The taste is mature yet tight with a mix of cherries and raspberries, and extra notes of liquorice, warm sand, herbs and leather. Very long and structured. Just mature. Very fine.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Louis Latour
The stand out wine in this flight is this one. A stunning, deep, hedonistic nose oozes up from the glass with notes of mashed raspberries, cherry liquorice, forest floor, warm fudge and Christmas spices. Just wonderful. A lovely sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is velvety yet firm with notes of ripe raspberries, dark cherries, veal stock, spices, atouch of tobacco and roses. A long, lingering finish with a fine acidity. Perfectly mature. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Gérard Mugneret
The first Mugneret wine has a big, broading nose with notes of warm raspberries, smoke, leather and root vegetables. Deep. Very, very good. A touch of animal fur after a while. Structured.
The taste is lovingly firm and intense with notes of raspberries, lingonberries, leather, undergrowth and warm herbs. A long, taut finish with sandy tannins. Really good and could be kept for 3+ years, at least.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)

The last flight was combined with a real surf & turf dish - a hearty oxtail stew and halibut - yummy!
1990 Echezeaux, René Engel
We really saved the best for last. For the first hour after they were poured I was convinced that this was the best wine of the night. But the Grivot, slowly but surely, came through as the winner.
The Engel has a deep, concentrated, sweet nose with notes of raspberry coulis, old expensive leather, sugared coffee, root beet juice and some stale Coca-Cola. Very deep and complex. Gorgeous.
The taste is almost fully mature with stunningly sweet and intense fruit, a long, long finish and a mouth feel of velvet. Notes of chocolate covered raspberries, cigar smoke, root vegetables, rosehips and spices. The finish goes on for over a minute. A stunner!
96p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Jean Grivot
As mentioned above, this beauty took its time to open up, but when it did, oooh boy! The nose is deep, refined and multi dimensional with notes of ripe raspberries, a hint of dries strawberries, Christmas spices, cherries, forest floor and a streak of Cohiba smoke. Deep, deep and deep.
The taste is tight and refined with sweet lingonberries, raspberries and cherries with additional notes of raspberry liquorice, cigar smoke, root vegetables, spices and rosehips. The finish is looong and there is still some finely tuned tannins, leaving their mark. A really great wine that will go on for 5-10 years still.
97p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux V.V., Mongeard-Mugneret

For dessert we had some assorted chocolate and this oldie.
1853 Vinho de Madeira, Souta & Ca
I decanted this four days before and it needed that time to really open up. The nose is utterly gorgeous and enjoyable with notes of dried apricots, band aid, banana peel, tea leaves, cigarette ashes and a hint of detergent. Deep is just the beginning of it. Extraordinary.
The taste is intensity in a glass, with notes of dried apricots, orange peel, dry ginger, band aid and green tea. The acidity is turned up to eleven and the finish goes on and on and on. A privilege to drink.
97p   (tasted 2015/03)

No comments:

Post a Comment