Saturday 2 December 2017

The Barolo Boys Visit Domenico Clerico, Mauro Veglio & Luigi Pira

Part three in my report from The Barolo Boys latest trip to Piedmont.

Domenico Clerico
My first visit to Clerico´s space ship like winery. I have only visited Clerico at the old winery where I met Domenico for the one and only time.
Oscar, the wine maker, meet up with us, showed us the cellar and poured the wines below. Oscar was very direct and upfront with his views, in a very honest and fun way.

2015 Barbera d´Alba Tre Vigne
Am open, inviting, creamy nose with notes of licorice, ripe cherries, raspberries and warm asphalt in a distance. Very, very good.
The taste is tighter than the nose leads you to believe with fine notes of black cherries, warm gravel, raspberry licorice and a kiss of new wood. Long and fine.
89p   (tasted 2017/11)

Oscar and a lovely view of barriques!
2013 Arte
A deep, fine, somewhat mature nose with notes of cherry chocolate, Finnish licorice and cigarr smoke. Very good.
The taste is tight and nicely concentrated with notes of dried cherries, tobacco, leather and gravel. A long finish with a dry ending. 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera. Oscar noted that this kind of blends have been less popular over the years, but Clerico will continue with its Arte.
87p   (tasted 2017/11)

2013 Barolo
A deep, spicy, energetic nose with notes of black cherries, smoke, rosehips, forest floor and some warm tiles. Very handsome.
The taste is seedy and fine with noticable silky tannins and notes of black cherries, licorice, dried flowers and mushrooms. Very long and distinct. A really fine Normale.
91p   (tasted 2017/11)

2013 & 2014 Barolo
2014 Barolo
The 14 is mored laid back and shy compared to the 13 but there is fine cherry fruit here alongside notes of gravel, violets and fir.
The taste is fresh and tight with a feeling of chewing on cherry pips. High and fine. Long. Very, very good. Evolves nicely in the glass.
90p   (tasted 2017/11)

2012 Barolo Ciabot Mentin
The 12 Ciabot Mentin is a beauty. The nose soars up from the glass with notes of fresh mushrooms, ripe red cherruies, roses en masse and a lovely dark perfume aroma. Very deep and pure.
The taste is concentrated yet light on its feet with notes of hard cherry candy, dry licorice, juniper berries and undergrowth. Deceptively drinkable at its young age. Really, really fine.
94p   (tasted 2017/11)

2008 Barolo Percristina
One of my favourite Baroli, the Percristina always delivers the goods. The nose is deep and complex with notes of ripe cherries, wood smoke, violets and asphalt. Very balanced and fine. Lovely.
The taste is very young and tight, but there is boatloads of sweet cherry fruit and notes of tar, dried flowers, violets and tobacco. Very, very long, and in the end there are some broad shouldered tannins that comes forward. Wait at least 8 years.
94p   (tasted 2017/11)

Mauro Veglio
My first visit to the Veglio estate. I have meet Mauro and Daniela before, some five years ago in Stockholm.

2016 Dolcetto d´Alba
A sweet/sour lingonberry nose with additional notes of earth, soap and some blueberries tossed in. Very nice.
The taste is juicy and fresh with a mix of lingonberries and blueberries with some gravel and bakelite also. A medium long finish. Good.
85p   (tasted 2017/11)

2016 Barbera d´Alba
A warm, spicy, open nose with notes of sweet violets, raspberry chocolate, banana peel and warm earth. Very, very good.
The taste is mouthfilling and pure with notes of chrushed cherries, raspberry licorice, moist earth and some chocolate notes. Very long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2017/11)

2015 Barbera d´Alba Cascina Nuova
The Cascina Nuova has a round, sweet nose with notes of cherry yougurt, violets, vanilla licorice and earth. Very good.
The taste is warm and easy going with notes of cherry pips, warm tiles and violets. There is a hint of heat at the end. Very good but the 16 Barbera is better.
87p   (tasted 2017/11)

Daniela Veglio

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo "Angelo"
If this is sample of the quality of the 16 Nebbiolo´s, we are in for a treat (most of the wine growers gets a twinkle in the eye when the 16 vintage comes up). The nose is rich yet defined with fine notes of ripe red cherries, wild strawberries, rosehips and warm earth. Very deep and fine.
The taste is full of sweet minerals, ripe cherries and sandy tannins. So young yet soo harmonious. Long and lingering. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2017/11)

2013 Barolo
A spicy, warm nose with notes of strawberries, chocolate, herbs and veal stock. A round character. Very good.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of dried strawberries, earth, asphalt and herbs. Very good tannins in the end of the finish.
88p   (tasted 2017/11)

2013 Barolo Gattera
A large scaled, refined and perfumed nose with notes of black cherries, violets, forest floor and root vegetables. A fine depth.
The taste is finely concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, asphalt, black olives and moist earth. A very long, distinct finish. 6+ year.
91p   (tasted 2017/11)

2013 Barolo Arborina
A classic with a beautiful nose filled with ripe cherries, raspberry licorice, roses, smoke and spices. Very complex and refined.
The taste is focused and racy with notes of hard cherry candy, gravel, tobacco and dried wild strawberries. A very long finish with finely polished tannins. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2017/11)

2013 Barolo Castelletto
The Castellero is deeper and darker than the rest of the Veglio line up, since it has its origin in Monforte d´Alba. There is more balsamic notes and the cherries is the darkest kind. Some asphalt, dried herbs and hot gravel also. Very, very good.
The taste is laid back, broad shouldered  and dark with notes of ripe cherries, tar, dried dark flowers and some tobacco notes. The tannins show themselves at the end of the finish. 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2017/11)

Luigi Pira
Here again. No visit to Piedmont without a visit to Pira, always a treat. And we got to have lunch with Gianpaolo and dinner with the Pira family.

Disclaimer - the importer of Marengo and Luigi Pira to Sweden (Origo Wines) are friends of mine and co founders of The illustrious Barolo Boys. I however, have no financial interests in these wines. I just call them as I see them.

2016 Dolcetto d´Alba
An open, warm yet fresh nose with notes of iron, blueberries, bakelite and gravel.
The taste is medium bodied and fruity with juicy tannins and ripe blueberry fruit. A fine finish with a nice warmth.
88p   (tasted 2017/11)

2016 Barbera d´Alba
A fine, spicy, sweet nose with notes of red licorice, matchbox, black cherries and some blackberries tossed in. A dark perfume scent after some time in the glass. Very, very good.
The taste is steady and ripe with notes of ripe black cherries, undergrowth, licorice and smoke. A fine, long, warm finish. Really good.
90p   (tasted 2017/11)

2016 Langhe Nebbiolo
Again, a pretaste of the 16 Nebbiolo´s and what will come. 2020 will be expensive... The nose is cool and refined with notes of red and black cherries, dark violets, black earth and a hint of tobacco. A fine intensity.
The taste is tight and concentrated with juicy tannins, a fine balance and a lovely mixture of cherries, strawberries, gravel and tobacco. Promising stuff!
92p   (tasted 2017/11)

2014 Barolo Serralunga
Gianpaolo did not take The Barolo Boys advice when we visited in May, that the indvidual cru´s hade the quality to be bottled separately. The only Barolo that will be released in 2018 is the Serralunga, in which all the cru´s are blended. Gianpaolo has done a great job, it is wonderful.
The nose is high pitched and focused with notes of wild strawberries, Juniper berries, chrushed rocks, dark orange peel and warm sand. Deep and fine.
The taste is silky and approchable even though some tight tannins lurks in the background. Lots of roses, dried strawberries and forest floor. Long and fine. Not for the long haul but there will be much enjoyment to had be had 10+ years from when it is released.
92p   (tasted 2017/11)

We then got to taste 2013 Margheria, Marenca and Vigna Rionda and my notes were almost identical to when we tasted them in May.

2015 Barolo Serralunga
Then Gianpaolo fetched some samples from cask of the 2015 vintage. The Serralunga shows a cool, red fruity nose with some earthy and barnyardy notes. A fine depth.
The taste is seedy and fresh with notes of ripe lingonberries, mushrooms and some tar. Finely polished tannins.
~89p   (tasted 2017/11)

2015 Barolo Margheria
The Margheria is a beauty with a deep, handsome nose filled with ripe red cherries and additional notes of cold coffee, earth and asphalt. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with juicy tannins, ripe red cherries, bakelite and damp earth. A very long, balanced finish. Will turn out great.
~94p   (tasted 2017/11)

2015 Barolo Marenca
A dark, laid back, intense nose with notes of red beets, sandelwood, Falu red paint, licorice and dark tobacco. Very intriguing.
The taste is a bit stubborn but all ingredients are there - sweet fruit, silky tannins, balance and a long, long finish. Will need time.
~92p   (tasted 2017/11)

2015 Barolo Vigna Rionda
This is what dreams are made of - a stunningly gorgeous nose with the ripest berries, the deepest depth, a perfect balance and a intensity that must be experienced. A piece of art.
The taste follows the nose with concentration, balance, structure and power. A future candidate for perfection. A must have.
~97p   (tasted 2017/11)

2009 Langhe Nebbiolo
Gianpaolo then went to the cellar and came back with a mystery bottle. The nose displays a fine, beginning maturity with notes of wild strawberries, mint sprinkled cherries, autumn leaves and mushrooms. A fine earthy note.
The taste is cool and mature with notes of dried cherries, autumn leaves, rosehips and dry earth. There is still some perky tannins at the end of the finish. We guessed a Barolo Normale from 99 or 01, but no, a ten year younger Langhe Nebbiolo, which was drinking really fine now.
89p   (tasted 2017/11)

1998 Dolcetto d´Alba
Another mystery bottle! This one has a tight, mature, balsamic nose with notes of canned mushrooms, veal stock, dried cherries and dried roses. Very deep and interesting.
The taste is mature and round with velvety tannins and notes of violets, dried cherries and dry licorice. A lot of dryness going on here, yet it is easy to drink and not at all dried out. Older than the previous bottle, we said, but then we hesitated. How old? Mid 90´s?
Say what! A 98 Dolcetto? Ah, well, you live and learn... A very good drink, perfectly mature and complex. Who said that you can´t age Dolcetto?
90p   (tasted 2017/11)

Part One - The Barolo Boys Visits Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno & Ceretto
Part Two - The Barolo Boys Visits Parusso, Vietti & Aldo Conterno