A Still Young Dolcetto - 2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Punset

Bought for the staggering price of 7 Euro, and mostly for getting the experience of an older Dolcetto, but low and behold, this bottle was fresh as a daisy.


2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Punset
The nose is deep and rather dark and has the energy of a 2-3 year old wine. Fine notes of licorice, dried cherries, earth and some dark perfume. Some rubbery notes after a while in the glass. Very good without being complex.
The taste is very good and direct with notes of dried black fruits, asphalt, earth and violets. A bit dense at the end. A fine warmth. And again, feels like a much younger wine. Really good.
86p   (tasted 2018/06)

Just Bought

I have through the years tasted some impressive old bottles of Beaujolais. The combination of Leroy and The Best Vintage Ever could make for a special experience...

Bottles Of Midsummer Eve

Family, friends, a lot of good food and some really nice bottles made up our Midsummer Eve. I didn´t take any formal notes, it wasn´t that kind of evening, but this is my recollaction of the bottles drunk.

Almost fully mature, round and pleasing (~91p)

2010 P-M Les Folatiérs, Glantenay (~94p) & 2004 P-M Les Combettes, Louis Carillon (~95p) - two extraordordinary white Burgundies!

A big, hearthy Sicilian Chardonnay with lots of character (~90p)

A fully mature, sweet, beautiful Burgundy (~92p)

A great German Pinot Noir with a lovely balance (~92p)

The next Pinot was from Italy and impressed everyone - just stunning! (~94p)

A 2001 Chianti - a stunner, although still young! (~92p)

A 13 year old Cabernet got those taste buds going (~92p)

A night without a Barolo - I don´t think so! The first one was sadly enough oxidized, a window display casualty (~70p)

The second Baroli was a young, direct, fine example (~92p)

Dessert! 1973 Quarts de Chaume, Domaine des Baumard (~93p) & 1980 Château Raymond-Lafon (~91p)

Brunello Di Montalcino - Ten Bottles From The 2012 Vintage

David & Ulf arranged a great tasting dinner a couple of weeks ago. The theme was some fine producers of Brunello and the vintage 2012. We had a bottle of Champagne and some really nice bottles of Riesling to begin with, but those will come in a later post.
The Brunellos were tasted single blind.

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona
A very juicy, fresh nose with lovely ripe cherries and additional aromas of tobacco, Tuscan gravel and herbs. The cherries has gotten a sligth kiss of oak. Very fine.
The taste is stern and seedy with notes of ripe cherries, salmiak, herbs and warm tiles. Really juicy tannins. The finish is long and distinct. Great structure. This will surely make it to the high 90´s in 10+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Salvioni
I felt a slight disappointment when the bottle was revealed. Not at all a bad wine, but being from my favourite Brunello producer, it was a bit of a let down.
The nose is deep, earthy and herbal with notes of bonfire, ripe cherries, a touch of cherry liquor and some meaty scents. Big and warm. Very deep.
The taste is tight and concentrated with lots of ripe black cherries and notes of scorched earth, ink and sweet licorice. Very long. The tannins are a tad rugged. Will time make this more harmonious?
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Marroneto
The Normale from Il Marroneto is a beauty, with a deep, concentrated nose full of dark cherries, undergrowth, fir wood, rosemary and gravel. Very balanced and fine.
The taste is seedy and cool with notes of dried up cherry jam, licorice, herbs and gravel. Refined. Steady yet silky tannins. Very balanced. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Colombaio Montosoli, Baricci
A new acquaintance for me (and after tasting it, hopefully my first and last encounter), this Brunello shows an open, superficial nose with notes of dried strawberries, old leather, dog fur and a high, almost yesty note.
The taste is warm and a tad foursquare with notes of dry licorice, dried cherries, asphalt and old herbs. Somewhat empty in the middle and there is a heat in the finish. A bad bottle or is this what this producer puts out?
82p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova, Casanova di Neri
A stunner! The nose is deep, yet open and flirty with notes of ripe cherries, dark chocolate, fried rosemary, earth and a fine balsamic scent. Really fine.
The taste has got it all - structure, finesse, balance, fruit and tannins in harmony, it just needs 8+ years in the cellar. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso, Ciacci Piccolomino d´Arragona
The Pianrosso is a perennial favourite of mine and the 2012 doesn´t disappoint. The nose is deep and multi layered with notes of violets, Tuscan gravel, ripe red currants and cherries and a fine tobacco aroma. A cool refinement. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of ripe cherries, roses, earth, tobacco and a hint of asphalt. Very long and focused. Lovely. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli, Altesino
A big, warm nose with notes of cherry liqour, band aid, scorched earth and bonfire. Ripe and rich, maybe a tad too much. Lots of sweet cherry fruit.
The taste is concentrated and warm with notes of cooked cherries, bonfire, warm herbs and violet pastilles. Very long and warm. Too marked by the vintage.
87p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére, San Filippo
A deep, complex nose with notes of ripe red cherries with some blueberries tossed in, spices, violets and rosemary. Very refined. Lovely.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, tobacco, violets and risemary. Silky tannins. Lots of energy and balance. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino, Conti Costanti
A fine, warm, spicy nose with notes of dark cherries, bonfire, tobacco, herbs and a fine earthiness. Dense and fine. Deep. Very, very good.
The taste is finely tuned yet inviting and warm with notes of salmiak, ripe cherries, wort flavored bread, tobacco and red beets. Long, fine and interesting. Needs 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie, Il Marroneto
Aaaaah! What a bottle of wine. This has an extra layer compared to the others, with laser focus, the finest fruit imaginable, concentration en masse yet lively and direct. Mint infused cherries, expensive tobacco, rosemary, asphalt, violets and moist earth are just few of the aromas you get when you coax the glass.
The taste is exactly like the worn expression - "an iron fist in a velvet glove". Everything in balance, every screw and nut in the right place, the tannins are polished with the finest cloth and the finish goes on for over a minute. Give this 8+ years and you are looking at perfection.
98p   (tasted 2018/05)

2015 Efferus, Ruggabellus

I tasted this beauty last year and bought a couple of bottles. Lets see what has happened since last year.

2015 Efferus, Ruggabellus
The fine bluberries are still there but the nose has become more herbal and a with a green, forestlike, attractive aroma. Some light bonfire notes. Light yet intense. Very fine.
The taste is more or less the same as one year ago with a lovely mix of blueberries, black olives and meat. A fine acidity. Long. Easily drunk today but I will give my remaining bottles (if I can resist...) 3+ years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2018/06)

Two Bottles Of Pinot Noir

Two fine, different expressions of Pinot Noir.

2012 Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Lompoc Wine Co
A warm, balanced nose with notes of ripe raspberries, asphalt, fried herbs, cap gun smoke and tobacco. A very fine, laid back warmth.
The taste is ripe and fruity yet handomely restrained with a fine acidity and notes of tobacco infused raspberries, Finnish licorice, herbs and leather. A long, juicy finish. A hint of maturity. Very, very good. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village, Domaine de Tilleuls
After tasting this beauty a couple of months ago I bought a bunch. Time to test drive a bottle.
The nose is a dream, with spicy, deep and concentrated aromas of ripe wild raspberries, nutmeg, forest floor and raspberry licorice. High, intense and addictive.
The taste is pure and refreshing yet with a firm backbone, a stern acidity and a long, long, structured finish. However, the fruit is playful and flirty, with notes of hard raspberry candy, rosehips, licorice, tarragon and smoke. Just lovely. Will be fun following this over the years, I guess it will hitting its peak in 8-12 years time. I will report back then...
94p   (tasted 2018/05)

Tasting Lunch With Olivier Humbrecht

On my way from this tasting I asked myself - when was the last time I had a bottle of wine from Alsace? I couldn´t remember. Probably a couple of years back, I kind of remember a so-so bottle of Cuvée Fredérick Emilé.
The next question that came to mind was - why don´t I drink it more often, at least when it is as good as these bottles were?

Thanks VinUnic for the invite and thanks to Olivier Humbrecht for making a passionate and knowledgeable claim for the these wines.

2015 Zind
This can´t be bottle as an Alsace wine beacuse of the Chardonnay content (2/3, the rest is Auxerrois). Not minding that, this is a fine wine with a deep, layered noes with notes of yellow plums, pickled ginger, cucumber and sun warm rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is broad and fine with notes of candied lemons, chrushed rocks, dry bread and some grassy notes. The nose has a dried up sweetness that doesn´t come through in the taste, it is bone dry. For drinking now.
88p   (tasted 2018/05)

Riesling
2016 Riesling Heimbourg
The 16 Heimbourg has a cool, refreshing nose with notes of lemons, chrushed stones, clay and a hint of metal/iron. Fresh and fine.
The taste is racy and fine with notes of lime peel, chalk and some salty notes in the finish. For drinking the coming 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)

2016 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
Here we move up in quality, with a deep, concentrated, luscious nose with notes of chalk, ripe lemons, dry grass, hard lemon candy and oyster shells. Complex and fine.
The taste is tight, ripe and focused with notes of ripe lemons, lemon grass, chalk and lots of minerals. Long and promising 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2011 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
This 7 year old Riesling shows a seedy, nice nose with notes of decaying summer flowers, wheat bread, gravel and grass. A tad anemic compared to the others. A fine structure though.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of dried yellow plums, dry lemons and hay. Again, a fine backbone but the flesh is somewhat missing.
88p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
Oooh boy, come to Papa! This delivers the goods in the shape of apricots, furniture polish, dried herbs, rust and wet stones. Very deep,  complex and fine. The slightest hint of botrytis. Oliver confirmed that there were probably some botrytis affected grapes in the mix. Today they are discarded. I wonder how the current vintages then will age, time will tell, but some botrytis grapes in the 1999 blend just makes is complex.
The taste is big, round, mature and lovely with notes of apricots, candied lemons, warm sand, hand cream and metal. Very long, intense and still perky. Great wine, for now and 3+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/05)

Pinot Gris
2016 Pinot Gris Heimbourg
A young, fresh nose with notes of herbs, earth, plums and slate. Pure and fine. A touch of deep fish stock after a while. Really good.
The taste is pure and refined with notes of dried up lemon ice cream, warm grass, plums and hay. A very fine acidity. Long and fine. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2016 Pinot Gris Windsbuhl
The Clos Windsbuhl has a high, somewhat reductive nose with notes of grass, ripening yellow fruits, steel and gravel. A tad locked up.
The taste is dry, seedy and structured (in a fine way) with notes of lemon peel, clay, incense and minerals. Very tight but promising. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)

2011 PInot Gris Thann
The last vintage with the name Thann on the label. This is really nice! An open, direct, sweet nose with notes of yellow plums, smoke, handcream, dried up honey and wet stones. Lovely.
The taste is big and juicy with notes of apricots, plums, smoke and warm grass. A long, warm finish with a fine acidity. A fine maturity. Really good. A bargain at 23 Euro.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl
Another stunning 99. According to Olivier this was harvested in mid November and the sugar level was 40 gr/lit! Now, 19 years later the sugar has, on the nose, subdued to notes of plum cakes, yellow pears, ski wax and dry honey. Intense and fine.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of lemon candy, yellow plums, smoke and warm asphalt. Starts out semi dry but ends bone dry. Very, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)

Gewürztraminer
2016 Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl
Another fine 2016, with a pure, handsome nose with notes of warm grass, herbs and summer flowers.
The taste is spicy and fat with that typical soap/overripe flowery notes that are so common in Gewúrztraminer (and the reason why I normally don´t like the grape) but this one keeps it in check and also displays notes of wet asphalt, gravel and smoke. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)

2012 Gewürztraminer Goldert
A very deep, intense nose with notes of passion fruit, roses, dry caramel and spices. Very fine.
The taste is big and concentrated with notes of dried flowers, hand cream, gravel and smoke. A very fine acidity. Long and generous. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2018/05)

2003 Gewürztraminer Goldert
Olivier said that this could "be drunk as an anti freezer"... The nose doesn´t reveal its 17% alcohol content and is very interesting with notes of dried plums, rubber, nail polish, lemon candy and smoke. A very fine but odd nose.
The taste is concentrated and large scaled with notes of dried herbs in liquor, birch sap, dried plums and some notes resembling Triple Karmeliet. Very long and intense.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

1999 Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl
A very deep, multi layered nose with notes of dried flowers, wool, iron, hay, lemon cream and minerals. Very, very good.
The taste is big, tight and focused with notes of dried flowers, quince marmelade, apricots, hay and chrushed rocks. A fine dryness at the end.
90p   (tasted 2018/05)

Chicken & Burgundy

Dinner a couple of nights ago - succulent chicken breasts with a morel sauce and mashed potatoes. A still young Volnay went perfectly with the dish.

2005 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillardes, Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
This 13 year old Volnay is still on the young side of things. It takes two hours before it really opens up, then with fine notes of red beets, dark flowers, raspberry licorice and iron. Deep and fine with a rather stern, but highly likeable, personality.
The taste is medium bodied and still tight with notes of spicy raspberries, violets, dried mushrooms and lots of gravel. Long and very finely balanced. Again, not a charmer but this I like. Glad I have more, there is no hurry here.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)