Monday 5 November 2012
In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter IV
If the previous post was of one of the big boys in quality, these two bottles came from on of the big boys in volume. Marchesi dè Frescobaldi´s CastelGiocondo is the second largest Brunello producer. Only Castello Banfi is bigger.
But what about the quality then? Never having tasted anything from CastelGiocondo I was anxious to pop these two bottles, a young and one (hopefully) mature.
More info here.
1994 Brunello di Montalcino CastelGiocondo, Marchesi dè Frescobaldi
This opens with a round, sweet, mature nose with notes of dried cherries, old leather, bonfire, warm tiles and a whole mushroom forest. Very sweet, friendly and nice. Wit air it actually gets more tight and focused, with fine notes of rosehips, licorice, cold coffe and banana peel. Very, very good. Fully mature but still with a lot of strength.
The taste is medium sized with a seedy character and lots of dried mushrooms and cherries, bonfire smoke, old leather, forest floor and rosehip. A medium long, fine finish that ends dry. On its own it is maybe a tad dry but with food this is a fine example of a mature Sangiovese. And the nose is great - it actually gets better and better until the bottle is empty.
89p (tasted 2012/10)
2006 Brunello di Montalcino CastelGiocondo, Marchesi dè Frescobaldi
A bigger, wider and, of course, younger nose with notes of sweet red cherries, dark fudge, red apples, chocolate biscuits and new leather. Upfront and with a nice sweet fruit. But there is a scent of sawdust that is a little disturbing, an unbalanced oak feeling. It may integrate with age - the 94 had 36 months in barriques and botti and there wasn´t a hint of too much oak.
The taste is young, tight and sweet with notes of red cherries, rosehips, chocolate cookies and some earthy notes. The new wood sensation is noticeable in the finish. A bit ungainly today, but if the 94 is proof how CastelgGiocondo ages, I wouldn´t be worried, but I woulnd´t open a bottle for about 6-8 years.
81p (tasted 2012/10)