Friday, 27 April 2018
Ten Chardonnay´s Of Late
2014 Chardonnay Seven Springs, Evening Land
A cool, spicy, smoky nose with notes of cold cream, grilles aspargus, grass and passionfruit. Very, very good. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is cool and fine with notes of sweet lime, dry caramel, minerals and cap guns moke. Long, cool and fine.
90p (tasted 2018/02)
2004 Chardonnay Diamond Label, Rosemount Estate
It has survived, barely. The fruit is a bit on the cooked side of things but there still is things to like, with a creamy character and ripe orange fruit.
The taste is flatter than the nose and lacks energy and definition but holds up alright. Nothing to write home about, but still, more alive than I would have thought.
78p (tasted 2018/03)
2014 Chardonnay by Farr, Farr
A stony, chalky, fine tuned nose with notes of dry passion fruit, lemon juice, dry fudge and hay. Very complex, multi layered and fine.
The taste is dry, refined and racy with notes of mango, smoke, white flowers and chalk. A fine, restrained salty note. Very long. Really classy. 4+ years.
93p (tasted 2018/01)
2014 Chardonnay Seven Flags, Paul Cluver
Behaved as great as seven months ago. Stunning wine.
95p (tasted 2018/02)
2013 Meursault 1er Cru Perriéres, Bouchard
A lovely, high, energetic nose with lots of chrushed chalk, candied lemons, fried bread and some creamy aromas. Very, very fine. Still young. Gorgeous.
The taste is pure and handsome wih notes of fresh tangerines, lemon cream, white flowers and minerals en masse. A very fine acidity. Balance and concentration. 6+ years.
94p (tasted 2018/03)
2015 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières, Domaine Jessiaume
A new producer for me and this white Santenay is very nice, with a cool, spicy nose with notes of chalk, basil leaves, tangerines and a hint of lemon licorice. Very, very good.
The taste is light, fresh and elegant with notes of spices, dried flowers, lemon peel and birch leaves. Long and fine. 5+ years.
89p (tasted 2018/04)
2014 Chardonnay Hildegard Santa Maria Valley, Au Bon Climat
A deep, upfront, sweet nose with a fine concentration and notes of caramel, peach, candied lemons and wet rocks. A very fine depth. Round and generous.
The taste is racy and refined with notes of lemon cream, milk chocolate biscuits, chrushed rocks and dried flowers. Very long and intense. A fine dryness at the end. Really fine. Should evolve well over the coming 5+ years.
93p (tasted 2018/04)
2014 Macon-Vergisson La Roche, Daniel et Julien Barraud
A fine, chalky nose with notes of white peach, spices. grass and cold butter. A cool, fine feeling about it.
The taste is dry and rocky with notes of lemons, grass and minerals. Still on the young side of things. A fine acidity. 6+ years.
89p (tasted 2018/03)
2012 Macon-Village Grand Elevage, Verget
An open, buttery, fine nose with notes of dry fudge, flint, dried apricots and a hint of coconut, in a restrained style. Very, very good. A hint of maturity.
The taste is medium bodied and dry with notes of pine apple, smoke, minerals amd lemon licorice. A fine dryness at the end of the finish. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
90p (tasted 2018/04)
2002 Chardonnay, Glen Carlou
Oxidized, with lots of wrinkled winter apples, plastic and old almond paste. Has gone too meet its maker in the sky.
The taste is more akin to a bad sherry than a white wine, without the alcohol.
53p (tasted 2018/04)