Tuesday 12 March 2019

1992 - 2016 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc, Peter Dipoli

I was invited by Brix Wine to a fabolous tasting of Sauvignon Blanc´s from Alto Adige at La Vecchia Signora (great food as always!).
Producer - Peter Dipoli. Presenter extraordinary - Fabio Zanzucci. The wines - stunning!

2016 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
A young, crisp, racy nose with notes of white currants, birch leaves and chrushed flint. Very fine. An high altitude nose.
The taste is cool and refined with notes of lemon peel, yellow plums and chrushed rocks. Sappy and fine. Judging from the older vintages, this will need 10 years to blossom. Lots of potential. Will be released on the state monopoly in the end of April, I will need some bottles of this gem.
91p   (tasted 2019/03)

2014 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
Interesting enough, the 2014 is the only wine in the lineup that showcases the "normal" aromas of a Sauvignon Blanc, in the shape of gooseberries, grass and cat pee. But it also has a fine smoky note. Very, very good from a difficult year.
The taste is tight and linear with notes of grass, elderberries and minerals. Long and fine, although it doesn´t have the vitality of the others.
88p   (tasted 2019/03)

2012 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
A stony, handsome nose with notes of dried up vanilla and lemon ice cream, minerals and birch sap. Resilient. Very fine.
The taste is lively and spicy with notes of yellow plums, birch sap and sweet minerals. Fresh and vital. This is really fine.
92p   (tasted 2019/03)

2010 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
The 2010 Voglar is a beauty. The nose is pure and crisp with notes of white roses, sand stone, steel, earth and ripe tomatoe leaves. Very complex and fine.
The taste is very refined and intense with notes of lemon peel, white currants, dried flowers and earth. A hint of maturity. Very, very fine. Just gorgeous.
94p   (tasted 2019/03)

2008 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
The 08 is even better than the 10! The nose is deep and complex with notes of banana peel, sweet minerals, dried up cream, spices and ripe flowers. Cool and intense. This is simply marvellous.
The taste follows the nose with notes of yellow pears, sweet minerals, cap gun smoke, spices and green lemons. The finish goes of and on. Brilliant.
95p   (tasted 2019/03)

2006 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
The 06 is marked by a warm vintage, with a nose of dried apricots, dried lemons, rubber and moist earth. A bit loose around the edges.
The taste is structured and linear with notes of dried root vegetables, dried apricots, earth and rubber. Very good but a tad foursquare. More structure than sheer enjoyment.
87p   (tasted 2019/03)

2004 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
A very deep, refined nose with notes of candle grease, dried flowers, chrushed rocks and cap gun smoke. Very, very fine.
The taste is tight and racy with notes of dry lemon grass, minerals, sand and dried flowers. Very fine. A very fine salty touch. Very long. Lovely.
92p   (tasted 2019/03)
1992 Voglar Sauvignon Blanc
The 92 is a miracle. Nowaday these wines are brought up in Acacia wood, but back in 92 it was all stainless steel. Given this blind I would have guessed a 10 year old wine, not a 27 year old one...
The nose is cool and restrained with notes of dried spices, geranium, grilled lemon and sand. Low keyed and very fine.
The taste is perky and fine with notes of dried lemons, dried up vanilla ice cream (just as in the 2012!), minerals and green tea. Very long and mineral driven. Balanced. Bottles like this will go on for 10+ years. Stunning.
93p   (tasted 2019/03)


  1. Aged savvies, a bit like Didier Dagueneau?

    1. Well, the young ones have a different character that of Dagueneau, and I haven`t tasted any older of Dagueneau to be able to make a comparison.

  2. Thank you so much, Joakim. For your beautiful words and for your time. I am looking forward to meet again. All the best, Fabio.

    1. Thanks Fabio! Really nice to meet you and hope to see you soon again!