Notes From A Cellar Dinner

Peter invited to a form of cellar thinning dinner to drink, in his words, "some wines that I´m curious about...". A splendid evening with great food and wine!

All tasted double blind.

Flight I

2002 Brut, Palmer

A elegant nose with some maturity and notes of toasted bread, smoke, chalk and lemon cream. Very, very good.

The taste is still crisp and fresh with notes of lemon candy, smoke and gravel. A fine acidity. Maturing but have many years to come.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2002 Brut, Ruinart

A open, spicy nose with notes of red apples, chrushed rocks, dried flowers and hay. Some maturity.

The taste is cool and stony with notes of red currants, sweet minerals and smoke. Structured. 

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

Flight II

2008 Chablis Les Clos, Brocard

A mineral laden nose with additional notes of lemon zest, grass and sun warm rocks. Very, very good.

The taste is cool and chalky with a high acidity and lots of lemon flavours. Still young, 6+ years.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2014 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay

A young, perky nose with notes of white flowers, grey pears, vanilla ice cream and a hockey puck! Lovely.

The taste is high and intense with a exquisite balance, a cleansing acidity and stunning fruit. Needs 5+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères, Domaine Chavy-Chouet

A round, semi heavy nose with notes of dried peach, lanolin, wet earth and some honey notes.

The taste is big and structured with notes of orange peel, grass and warm gravel. Long. 

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2013 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay

A large scaled yet refined nose with notes of orange blossom, fudge, white flowers and sweet minerals. A beauty.

The taste is structured and elegant with a very fine acidity, stunning yellow fruit and a long, lingering finish. Great now and the coming 8+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

Flight III

1995 Château Leoville-Poyférre

A perfectly mature, classic Bordeaux nose with fresh stables, tobacco, black currant leaves and worn leather. A hint of brett to add to the complexity.

The taste is dry and finely matured with notes of coffee powder, leather, autumn leaves and dusty earth. Very fine.

92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2005 Chryseia, P + S

A field blend that is a dead ringer for a Rhone Syrah with notes of blackberries, spices, black pepper and dried meat. Very, very good.

The taste is tight and focused with notes of dried blackberries, rubber, scorched earth and black tea. Very long, 5+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2006 Faye, Stag´s Leap

A gorgeous nose with notes of moist earth, ripe black cherries, a hint of dark chocolate and charcoal. Very fine.

The taste is bold and solid with lovely notes of black cherries, fried herbs, sugeare coffee and orange peel. The finish is long and intense. Stunning. I had this pegged as a Super Tuscan.

95p   (tasted 2023/07)

2004 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Scavino

Easily (!) identified as a really fine Barolo with some age, I guessed 1999. The nose is deep and dark with notes of dried cherries, ceps, violets and dried flowers. Very deep.

The taste is broad and velvety with notes of dried cherries, undergrowth, rose petals and licorice. Very long. 5+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2007 Château Pontet-Canet

A cool, finely tuned nose with notes of black currants, graphite, plums and new leather. Very, very good.

The taste is tight and focused with the fine black currant fruit a tad locked up at the moment. Long and strict. 7+ years.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

Flight IV

2016 Arbois Savagnin Ouillé, Jerôme Arnoux

A restrained, cool nose with notes of paint, wool and dried peach. Not that deep.

The taste is low keyed and rather elegant with notes of sweet/sour lemons, hand cream and dry earth.

85p   (tasted 2023/07)

2006 Clos Windsbuhl Pinot Gris, Zind-Humbrecht

A big, bold and beautiful nose with notes of candied lemons, peach, apricots, sweet chalk and detergents. Very intense and complex.

The taste is handsome and forward with a hint of botrytis and additional notes of peach, earth and glue. Very fine.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape la Combe des Fous, Clos Saint Jean

Oooh dear. This is a train wreck. A big, all-over-the-place nose with notes of burnt rubber, high octane coffee, overripe black fruits and bonfire smoke. There is lot going on here but nothing is good.

The taste is all about burnt rubber in different shades of burning. A very fiery ending. Some tiny extracts of fruit appears from time to time. 100p from Parker and the name means "valley of the fools" - connect the dots...

62p   (tasted 2023/07)

2008 Late Bottled Vintage Port, Graham

One should cellar LBV. This has been stored by Peter for some years and the result is good! A deep, fine nose with notes of dates, fried nuts, damsons and some petrol station scents. Very, very good.

The taste is rich and concentrated with lots of sweet black fruit, assorted nuts, cigarr smoke and scorched earth. Long and fine.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Luigi Vico

I had tasted the Baroli from this cantina at Grandi Langhe both in 2021 and 2023 and was impressed, so a visit was a must. Aldo took great care of me, showing me the vineyards and pouring the wines below.

2020 Roero Arneis Nebula Alba

The name means "white fog". The nose is cool and fine with notes of white pepper, thai basil and white currants. 

The taste is spicy and fresh with a good acidity and white peppered yellow fruit. A fine finish.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Chardonnay Ostium

This Chardonnay sports a perky, earthy nose with notes of ripening pears and dry butter cookies.

The taste is forward and fine with notes of peach, dry fudge and steel. A very good acidity. The name means "the door to heaven".

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Ius Soli

This Muscat wine bears the name "state of the rule" and has a interesting, spicy nose with notes of ripe peach, apricots and hay. Very, very good.

The taste is structured and fine with lots of ripe yellow fruit, fir wood (4 months in old wood) and a fine acidity. Long. 

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Roero Arneis Nebula Alba

The one year younger version of the Arneis displays the same characteristics but with a added lift in the acidity and overall finesse.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Dolcetto De Dulcis In Fund

The interesting names continues - "in the end its sweet" - which hints at that Dolcetto means sweet. A distinct, fine nose with notes of red currants, ripe blueberries, violets and gravel. Very, very good.

The taste is high and fresh with notes of blueberries, damsons, iron and some tobacco notes. 6+ years.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Langhe Barbera Robur Vitae

Meaning "power of life". A broad, warm nose with notes of scorched earth, fir wood and raspberry jam. A tad over"powering".

The taste is big and bold with lots of cooked raspberry fruit and notes of sun warm asphalt, fried herbs and licorice. Long and warm.

86p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Barbera Robur Vitae

The 2020 version of the "power of life" is, to my palate, much better with ripe raspberry fruit, a lovely licorice note and a crisp acidity which lifts the wine.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Nebbiolo Ne Bis In Idem

This LN is a beauty, with a deep nose laden with notes of ripe strawberries, licorice, Langhe earth and ripe flowers.

The taste is tight and nicely structured yet with a lightness and finesse. Very long. 5+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga

A very handsome, pure nose with notes of hard cherry candy, violets, licorice and dark roses. Very classic. 

The taste is taut and solid with notes of ripe cherries, asphalt, violets and earth. Very fine. 8+ years. The grapes comes from the MGA Meriame.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Prapó

A deep, restrained nose with focus and energy, gorgeous notes of charcoal, hard cherry candy, dried mushrooms and licorice. Very, very fine.

The taste is pure, tight and balanced with polished tannins, stunning fruit and a long, long, lingering finish. One for the ages, +12 years.

95p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Moscati d´Asti

A open, delicate nose with of apples, peaches, white tea and incense. Very, very good.

The taste is fresh and juicy with a fine acidity and lots of ripe yellow fruits. Silky and highly gulpable.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

Notes From A Visit To Ivögården Vineyard

This is a miniscule vineyard, only 0,25 ha, making 600 liter wine each year, that is transformed into sparkling, white, rosé, red wines and distillate in the form of a gin and a Swedish variant of grappa.

Bo Jeppsson, the winemaker and the one who set up the vineyard in 2013, showed me the vineyard where Solaris, Rondo and Regent grows. These are PIWI grapes which are more resistent to fungus and other dieseases, and they are able to fully mature in the Swedish climate. 

After a tour through the vineyard I was able to taste through the line up.

A very nice place, a trip here is recommended. 

Info here - Ivögården Mat & Vingård (ivogarden.se). 

2021 Rondo Regent Brut

A delicate, low keyed nose with notes of raspberry candy, earth and hints of licorice. Good.

The taste is fresh and fine with a good acidity and notes of dried raspberries, dark bread and herbs. 

86p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Solaris Brut

A very nice nose with notes of dried honey, chrushed rocks and lemon peel.

The taste is cool and fresh with notes of lemon peel, earth and minerals. A fine acidity.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Solaris

A restrained, tight nose with notes of lemon candy, gravel and basil. A tad one dimensional.

The taste is pure, dry and easy going with good lemon coated fruit and gravelly notes.

84p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Solaris 

This has been lying on a 25 liter Hungarian oak barrel and is very much marked by oak, both on the nose and palate. Under the layer of oak there are some interesting notes of detergent, glue and the intriguing scents from a 50-70 year old Sauternes. 

The taste is big and oak laden but yet again there are interesting notes under the oak. Dry caramel, old apricots and hay. They serve it with the traditional svartsoppa (a soup serverd at the autum goose dinner, made from the blood from the geese). A wine you either love or hate. I´m in the former category.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Rosé Rondo Regent

A very dark coloured rosé since these grapes have plenty of colour in their skins. The nose is open and spicy with notes of raspberry juice, licorice, fresh herbs and gravel. Very, very good.

The taste is finely tuned with a nice structure and dryness with notes of red currants, dried raspberries and gravel.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Rondo Regent

The nose resembles Cabernet Franc with its herbal and peppery aroma, there is also some notes of warm earth, red currants and tobacco.

The taste is seedy and tight with notes of red currants, scorched earth and assorted herbs. The tannins are on the stern side, this needs some time. 4+ years.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

NV Rosé, De Sousa

NV Rosé, De Sousa

A perky, refined nose with notes of rhubarb, red apples, chalk and hints of hazelnut-chocolate. Very, very good.

The taste is cool and fresh with notes of Christmas spices, chocolate covered strawberries and gravel. A fine acidity. Tails of a tad quick in the finish. 

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

1989 Château Labérgorce Zédé

1989 Château Labérgorce Zédé

A perfectly mature Bordeaux is hard to beat (even if a perfectly mature Barolo does that). This 34 year old Margaux offers up a deep, smooth nose with gorgeous notes of chewing tobacco, dried up black currant jam, sugared coffee and a forest full of autumn leaves and moist undergrowth.

The taste is medium bodied and velvety with notes of black currant leaves, tomato paste, dried meat, forest floor and cigarr. A very fine, lingering finish. Drinking perfect now.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Castello di Perno

As with Fortemasso, this is a very new estate, the first vintage was 2014. They have 13,5 ha and produces ca 50.000 bottles per year. Matteo took time away in the late afternoon and showed me the new building and poured the wines below. 

We also tasted 2022, 2021 and 2020 from tank and cask. I didn´t take any notes on those but I was very pleased with what I tasted.

2021 Langhe Nascetta

From Serravalle at 720 meters, this Nascetta sports a fine, spicy nose with notes of sweet/sour lemons, chrushed rocks and grass. Very salivating.

The taste is tight and steely with a fine acidity and notes of chalk, lemon peel and spices. Very, very good.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Dolcetto d´Alba

A open, fine nose with notes of ripe blueberries with some raspberries added, violets and iron. Pure and fresh.

The taste is balanced and fine with some perky tannins and a fine blueberry and damson fruit. 3+ years.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Barbera d´Asti

From 60 year old vines, see the picture below, displays a very deep, salty Barbera nose with notes of ripe rasoberries, red currants and bonfire smoke. Very, very good.

The taste is high and sappy with notes of sweet/sour raspberries, licorice, iron and fresh herbs. Very long with a fine intensity.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Nizza

From the same area as the wine above but from 80 year old vines, this is a impressive Barbera. Very deep and concentrated on the nose with notes of wild raspberries, Finnish licorice, incense and tar. 

The taste is taut and structured with a impressive depth and focus. Immense fruit. Very, very long. Really fine. 6+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Nebbiolo

The grapes to this LN comes from Gramolere. The nose is pure and fine with a very nice cherryfruit alongside some asphalt and mushroom notes.

The taste is finely tuned with notes of hard cherry candy, gravel and dry licorice. Juicy and silky tannins. Very, very good. 4+ years.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo

A cool, willful nose with interesting notes of wild strawberries, rubber and fine balsamic notes. Lots of earth. Very fine.

The taste is tight and refined with notes of dried strawberries, bakelite, minerals and asphalt. Very long and intense. Again, very fine. 7+ years. From Castelletto.

92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2017 Barolo Castelletto

A restrained, focused nose with notes of dark cherries, asphalt, hints of tobacco and Langhe earth. Very deep and promising. Lovely.

The taste is pure and concentrated with boatloads of cherry fruit, polished tannins and a long, long finish. This needs time, 9+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

2013 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole, Marengo

2013 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole, Marengo

A deep, floral nose with notes of forest floor, cherry licorice, ink and violets (!). Dark cherries. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Complex.

The taste is tight and sandy with notes of black cherries, Langhe earth, iron and violet pastilles. Silky tannins. Very fine. 5+ years. Last tasted at the cantina in  May 2017.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Cascina Sòt

Maurizio showing me the vineyards

Cascina Sòt is a family run cantina started in 1975 when Maurizios parents was able to by the land they had previously worked as farmer-tenants for decades. 

Maurizo´s first vintage was in 2008. The estate is 19 ha big and produces ca 65.000 bottles per year. 

2021 Chardonnay

A young, spicy nose with notes of toasted bread, lemon cream and hints of basil. Very, very good.

The taste is balanced and fine with a creamy character and a fine acidity. Long. 3+ years.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Nascetta

A earthy, tight nose with notes of white currants, grass and herbs. Very good.

The taste is cool and fresh with notes of dried peach, incense and grass. A tad thin on the finish.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Vino Rosato

50% Nebbiolo and 50% Barbera. A open, fresh nose with notes of blood oranges, red apples and Finnish licorice. Very, very good.

The taste is elegant and racy with a very fine acidity and silky fruit. A very gulpable wine.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Barbera d´Alba

A big, open nose with notes of ripe raspberries, warm tiles and scorched earth. 

The taste is broad and spicy with notes of raspberry licorice, asphalt and fried herbs. Very good in a direct sort of way.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Barbera d´Alba Superiore

The Superiore has turned up the fruit to 11. A big concentrated nose with notes of (over)ripe raspberries, licorice, sugared coffee and scorched earth. 

The taste is big and bold with a very upfront, juicy raspberry fruit alongside  notes of warm tiles and bonfire smoke. A very good acidity. 6+ years.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo

A young, pure nose with notes of red cherries, Lange earth and licorce. Very, very good.

The taste is structured and fine with a long finish and a very nice cherry fruit. 4+ years.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Del Comune di Monforte d´Alba

A fine, cool nose with notes of hard cherry candy, ripe flowers and violets. Deep and fine.

The taste is open and juicy with notes of red cherries, licorice, a hint of tobacco and dried flowers. 6+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Bricco San Pietro

A deep, refined nose with tar & roses, a low keyed intensity and a very classic expression. Really fine.

The taste is finely structured with taut tannins, a very long finish and lots of wild strawberries, iodine and licorice. Lovely. 8+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

2017 Barolo Riserva Bricco San Pietro

Only 600 bottles made. A very deep, old school nose with notes of dried cherries, Langhe earth, mushrooms and asphalt. Very fine.

The taste is tight and tannin laden with restrained cherry fruit and a long, concentrated finish. One for the ages. 12+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Elio Grasso

The Elio Grasso estate conists of 18 ha and produces ca 90.000 bottles per year. Martina showed med the impressive cellar and poured these fine wines.

2022 Dolcetto d´Alba Dei Grasso

A fine depth with notes of ripe blueberries, licorice, iron and fresh herbs. Very, very good.

The taste is structured and fine with silky tannins and notes of damsons, blueberries and a hint of dark chocolate. 6+ years.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Langhe Nebbiolo

In 2022 there won´t be a Runcot bottling so that is included in this wine. A open, fresh nose with notes of wild strawberries, licorice and Langhe earth.

The taste is elegant and fine with notes of red cherries, violets and licorice. Very, very good. 4+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

From 40 year old vines this very fine wine oozes up from the glass with notes of ripe cherries, salmiak, licorice and forest floor. Very fine.

The taste is handsome and refined with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, asphalt and fir wood. Lovely. 8+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Ginestra Case Maté

The Case Maté is what dreams are made of, at least mine. The nose is very deep and intense with gorgeous notes of wild strawberries, sun warm rocks, mushrooms and hints of fennel. Stunning.

The taste is tight and perfectly balanced with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, slate and minerals. Very, very long. Aristocratic. 10+ years. 

96p   (tasted 2023/07)

2015 Barolo Riserva Runcot

Runcot comes from a 1,5 ha vineyard in Ginestra and is brought up in 100% new barriques. The nose of the 2015 is deep and restrained with notes of ripe cherries, pipe tobacco, forest floor and hint of oak. Very fine.

The taste is tight and structured with broad tannins, lots of sweet black fruit and a minute long finish. There is some oaky notes in the long finish that will need 8+ years to integrate. 

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

Six Bottles Of Bubbly

Last tasting of the season in our tasting group and according to tradition we finish with Champagne. H arranged a interesting tasting with bottles from small producers from the great 2008 vintage. 

Tasted double blind.

2008 Prestige, Serge Pierlot

A elegant, fine nose with notes of dry caramel, white flowers and lemon cream. A fine salty note.

The taste is cool and creamy with notes of lemon zest, mieral and dry fudge. A fine acidity. Still young.

91p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Brut, Jean-Yves de Carlini

A tight, steely nose with notes of of yellow plums, smoke and chrushed rocks. Very, very good.

The taste is young and tight with notes of iron, elder berries and dried plums. A medium long finish. Needs time, 4+ years.

88p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Paradis, A. Boatas

This Blanc de Blancs is a beauty. The nose is pure and elegant with notes of lemon cream, birch leafs, butter fudge and sweet minerals.

The taste is cool and focused with notes of white flowers, grilled lemons and lots of chalk. A very fine acidity. 4+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Cuvée Prestige, Gaudrillet

70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. A deep, smoky nose with notes of red apples, elder berries and dark minerals. It changes in the glass, from time to time it appears a tad shallow.

The taste is young and nicely balanced with a fine acidity and nice fruit. A bit short on the finish. 

86p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Blanc de Blanc, Benoit Munier

This zero dosage Champagne is a stunner. A deep, complex nose with notes of dry caramel, sun warm grass, cold coffee and tiles. Very interesting. Lots of ripe red currants.

The taste shows a hint of maturity alongside a fine acidity and boatloads of ripe yellow fruit. Very, very long. Lovely. Blanc de Blancs.

94p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Clos des Bergeronneau VV, Florent Bergeronneau

All Pinot Meunier. The nose is broad and deep with notes of autumn apples, almond paste, kumin and sun warm rocks. Some maturity. Very, very good.

The taste is high and a bit rough around the edges with notes of ripe red fruits, gravel, almonds and autumn leafs. Long and fine. 

90p   (tasted 2023/06)