2020 Red, Rall

2020 Red, Rall

A very deep, restrained nose with notes of ripening blackberries, assorted spices, dried meat, leather and lots of violets. Very, very good.

The taste is young, perky and peppery with notes of violets, leather, blueberries and chrushed rocks. Long and fine. A fine bitter note in the finish. Needs 6+ years. Syrah dominated with some Carignan, Cinsault and Grenache.

92p   (tasted 2023/08)

A Sangiovese Evening

S & R invited to a Sangiovese tasting. It turned to be a great evening.

Flight I

2015 Chianti Classico, Castello dei Rampolla

A somewhat mature, fresh nose with notes of violets, plums, cherries, iron and herbs. Very, very good.

The taste is cool and nicely structured with notes of dried cherries, herbs and dry licorice. A fine dry finish. 3+ years.

89p   (tasted 2023/08)

2013 Chianti Classico, Querciabella

A deep, creamy nose with notes of cherry jam, undergrowth, rosemary and hints of chocolate. Very fine.

The taste is tight and focused with very fine cherry fruit, silky tannins and a long, fine finish. 

91p   (tasted 2023/08)

2010 Chianti Classico, Fontodi

This has some Cabernet Sauvignon notes on the nose in the shape of black currants, fresh stables and leather, but there are also Sangiovese fingerprints in the shape of Tuscan gravel and rosemary. All in all a very fine nose.

The taste is rich and dry with notes of ripe cherries, violets, herbs and scorched earth. Tight and very fine. 

92p   (tasted 2023/08)

2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Castell´In Villa, Berardenga

A deep, restrained nose with notes of ripening cherries, gravel, violets and dried flowers. Very, very good in a laid back style.

The taste is tight and dry with notes of red cherries, dry licorice, herbs and gravel. A fine bitter note in the finish. Structured. No real signs of maturity.

90p   (tasted 2023/08)

Flight II

2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio, Barone Ricasoli

A deep, spicy nose with notes of ripe red cherries, plums, licorice and a hint of chocolate. Very fine.

The taste is young and tight with sandy tannins and gorgeous plum and cherry fruit. Needs 8+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/08)

2006 Chianti Classico Riserva, Felsina

A large scaled, warm nose with some maturity and notes of gravel, warm tiles and black cherries. Very deep.

The taste is elegant and racy with notes of dried cherries, licorice, sand and dried herbs. A very fine balance. 3+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/08)

2006 Fontalloro, Felsina

A deep, cool, refined nosew ith notes of sweet/sour cherries, thyme, licorice and sun warm earth. Lovely.

The taste is pure and fine with notes of ripe cherries, Tuscan gravel, herbs and chocolate wafers. Very long. 4+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/08)

2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo, Fontodi

A very deep, smoky nose with notes of morels, Basset licorice, fried herbs and asphalt. High, pure and energetic. Very young.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of bakelite, ripe cherries, iron and bonfire smoke. Very handsome. 8+ years.

95p   (tasted 2023/08)

Flight III

2006 Cepparello, Isole e Olena

Not what it should be. Warm, almost cooked with earthy, dry notes. Stored badly?

No rating   (tasted 2023/08)

2006 Percarlo, San Giusto a Rentennano

A very deep, seedy nose with notes of black cherries, iron, Tuscan gravel, tobacco and leather. High and pure. Just gorgeous.

The taste is intense, rich and concentrated with stunning cherry fruit and a long, long, long finish with notes of iron, tobacco and smoke. Just a hint of maturity, this has 10+ more years to go.

97p   (tasted 2023/08)

2006 Pergole Torte, Montevertino

This was my wine of the night. A stunning nose with intense notes of ripe flowers, ripe cherries, salt licorice, iodine and coffee. Breathtakingly beautiful.

The taste is tight and refined with notes of ripe cherries, salmiak, ink, sweet minerals and dried flowers. Layers upon layers. The finish goes on for over a minute. Great wine. 8+ years.

98p   (tasted 2023/08)

2006 Flaccianello, Fontodi

Another stunner. The nose is big and bold with notes of black cherries, fir wood, leather, sugared coffee and fried herbs. Bottomless deep.

The taste is rich, concentrated and balanced with power and focus. Gorgeous black fruit, polished tannins and a looong finish. 7+ years.

97p   (tasted 2023/08)

2020 Bien Nacido Vineyard Block 11 Syrah, Ledge

2020 Bien Nacido Vineyard Block 11 Syrah, Ledge

An impressive, intense and very deep nose with notes of ink, ripe blackberries and black cherries, new leather, Lily of the Valley and asphalt. Very, very fine.

The taste is tight and massive but also with a refinement that keeps it all together. Stunning fruit and intensity. Notes of ripe wild raspberries, iron, violets and blood pudding. A minute long finish. Stunning.

96p   (tasted 2020/08)

2019 Barolo Bussia, Fogliati

2019 Barolo Bussia, Fogliati

A low keyed, old school nose with notes of paint, red currants, dried strawberries, gravel and dried ceps. Some irony scents. A very high, fine nose.

The taste is more linear, very young and seedy with notes of dried flowers, red currants, violets and gravel. Polished tannins. Needs time, 8+ years.

90p   (tasted 2023/08)

Two 2013 Baroli

2013 Barolo La Tartufaia, Serradenari - Giulia Negri

A fine, open nose with notes of dried strawberries, forest floor, tobacco and heaps of roses. Very finely perfumed. Lovely.

The taste is cool and elegant with still tight tannins and notes of violets, roses, tobacco and Langhe earth. Long and balanced. 4+ years. Earlier notes - Barolista: 2010 & 2013 Barolo La Tartufaia, Giulia Negri.

Notes from my visit to Giula Negri - Barolista: The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To Giulia Negri, Franco Conterno & Cascina Adelaide

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2013 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga, Luigi Baudana

A tight, dark nose with notes of earth, black cherries, fir wood, paint and asphalt. Some fine balsamic notes. 

The taste is broad and tight with notes of gravel, tobacco, black cherries and asphalt. The tannins are a bit foursquare at this moment. Needs time, 7+ years.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

The Three 2019 La La´s & Other Fine Wines From Guigal

Cortsey of Wineaffair I had yesterday the possibility to taste through the current vintages of the Guigal top line. As ever I´m grateful to Claes for the opportunity to taste these gems.

2020 Crozes-Hermitage

A fresh, light, pure nose with notes of ripening blackberries, asphalt and some peppery notes.

The taste is cool and fine with a good acidity, soft tannins and a nice blackberry fruit. 

Will be released 1th of September on the monopoly.

87p   (tasted 2023/08)

2019 Hermitage

The best Hermitage (not counting the Ex Voto) I have tasted from Guigal. The nose is deep and meaty with gorgeous notes of (over)ripe strawberries, moist earth and tobacco.

The taste is tight and focused with black peppered fruit, earth and pipe tobacco. Very fine, silky tannins. Great. 6+ years.

Will be released 1th of September on the monopoly.

94p   (tasted 2023/08)

2020 Ex Voto Hermitage (white)

A big, bold, buttery nose with notes of ripe oranges, fried ginger, white flowers and sweet minerals. Opulent and fine.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of cooked oranges, coconut and matchbox. Very long. A touch of heat in the finish. 

Will be released 17th of August on the monopoly.

92p   (tasted 2023/08)

2019 Ex Voto Hermitage (white)

Just stunning. The nose is very deep and gorgeous with notes of cap gun smoke, grilled lemons, burned fudge and summer flowers. 

The taste is broad and beautiful with refinement and a broadshouldered ease. Rich fruit and a lenght counted in minutes. A must buy.

96p   (tasted 2023/08)

2020 Saint Joseph Vignes de L´Hospice

A salivating, high nose with notes of black pepper, warm tiles, herbs and orange peels. Very fine.

The taste is tight and elegant with a racy balance and gorgeous black peppered fruit. Very long and distinct. 7+ years.

Will be released later this autumn.

94p   (tasted 2023/08)

2019 Ex Voto Hermitage

A very deep, focused nose with notes of sweet violets, Lily of the Valley, meat and moist earth. Very, very fine.

The taste is rich and concentrated with notes of dark licorice, tobacco, violets and fried meat. Very polished tannins. Great wine in the making, 8+ years.

Will be released 17th of August on the monopoly.

95p   (tasted 2023/08)

2019 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

A very deep, balanced nose that combines concentration with a air of lightness. Gorgeous notes of ripening blackberries, violets, white pepper and assorted herbs. 

The taste is tight and focused with the same combination of concentration and lightness of being. Very, very long. Very balanced. 8+ years.

Will be released 17th of August on the monopoly.

97p   (tasted 2023/08)

2019 Côte-Rôtie La Turque

The best of the bunch and maybe the best La Turque I have ever tasted. A bottomless deep, high and intense nose with notes of ripe blackberries, chrushed rocks, lego pieces, wet asphalt and dark flowers. Just stunning.

The taste is rich and aristocratic with an abundance of black fruit, polished tannins and a finish that seemingly never ends. A candidate for perfection, just give it 8+ years.

Will be released 17th of August on the monopoly.

99p   (tasted 2023/08)

2019 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

As usual, the most backward of the three La La´s. A very deep, tight nose with notes of iron, blueberries en masse, smoke, red tea and herbs. Restrained. Very fine.

The taste is very intense, forceful and rich with notes of dried blueberries, iodine, scorched earth and bakelit. Very long. 10+ years.

Will be released 17th of August on the monopoly.

96p   (tasted 2023/08)

Earlier vintages of the La La´s tasted:

Barolista: 2018 La Mouline, La Turque & La Landonne

Barolista: Guigal´s La-La Wines From The 2017 Vintage

Barolista: A Splendid Guigal Lunch (2016 & 2011)

Barolista: New Vintages From Wine Affair - Part Three - Five La La´s From Guigal (2012 & 2011)

Barolista: A Tasting Lunch With Philippe Guigal (2009)

Barolista: A Guigal Lunch (2012 & 1999)

Barolista: 1999 Côte-Rôtie, Guigal - d´Ampuis, La Mouline, La Turque & La Landonne

Barolista: 1998 Côte-Rôtie, Guigal - d´Ampuis, La Mouline, La Turque & La Landonne

Barolista: Oh La La - Nine Vintages of La Landonne, Guigal

A Couple Of Days in Piedmont - Visit To Umberto Fracassi

My last visit on this tour to Langhe and the most fascinating one. Two years ago I had tasted the 1962 Barolo and was impressed. Coupled with the fact that this is the only producer of the MGA Mantoetto in Cherasco, I was keen to make a visit.

I mailed and swiftly got an answer. But I had no idea that I would meet Umberto, a 88 year old gentleman, who made this visit the most memorable one.

I offered to bring a 1964 Barolo but Umberto´s reply was - "don´t bring your 1964, we can find old bottles to taste, we can play with old bottles for fun".

The fun we had! 

Upon arrival to a beautiful house in the centre of Cherasco I found myself in a large room with a table full of bottles with different vintages (see picture above). All Baroli.

If it wasn´t for the fact that I had another visit booked later that day I could have stayed for hours (or days).

The estate is 6 ha large with Mantoetto being 2,28 ha. Umberto produces between 15-20.000 bottles per year. 

When I mentioned that I really liked their old school, refined label, Umberto calmly said that it had been the same since 1885...

2019 Barolo Mantoetto

Umberto is justifiably proud of his 2019, saying it is the best wine he has produced. Maybe so in due course but some other vintages, see below, moved me more.

The 2019 opens up in the glass with a cool, refined character and notes of ripening cherries, paint, leather and forest floor. Very old school.

The taste is balanced and delicate with very fine red fruit, silky tannins and a long, elegant finish. 8+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

1996 Barolo Mantoetto

Umberto then asked me to choose a vintage but I returned by asking which vintage he thought would be great to taste now. He then opened the 1996. A great choice. 

The nose is very deep with fine notes of a moist forest floor, cold coffee, dried strawberries, leather and violets. Very fine.

The taste is focused and fine with some maturity but there still is some tannins in the finish. Lots of dried strawberries, coffee powder and licorice. Lovely.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

1999 Barolo Mantoetto

Now it was my time to choose and I thought a 1999 would be nice to try. How right I was. :-)

This is a gorgeous wine, just hitting its stride. The nose is broad and concentrated with notes of sweet/sour cherries, tobacco, licorice and iron. Stunning.

The taste is brilliant with fruit, tannins and acidity in harmony. Lots of ripe cherries, leather, dried flowers and minerals. Very, very long. 4+ years. Great wine.

96p   (tasted 2023/07)

1985 Barolo Mantoetto

I had no choice, Umberto made me choose another vintage, and I was happy to oblige. I opted for this.

The nose is very deep and fully mature with notes of mushrooms, old paint, autumn apples and old leather. Soft and fine.

The taste is mature and dry with notes of dried cherries, undergrowth, dry licorice and bakelite. A fine, wilting finish. Maybe better some years ago but still a very fine Mantoetto Barolo.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Nebbiolo

As a finish Umberto wanted me to taste the Langhe Nebbiolo, their first vintage of making a such.

The nose is young and forward with notes of red cherries, ripe flowers, sand and paint. Light and fine.

The taste is nicely structured with a fine balance and lots of ripening cherries, iron and salt licorice. Very, very good. 4+ years.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

1973 Barolo Riserva Brunate, Marcarini & Place 73 On Feedspot

1973 Barolo Riserva Brunate, Marcarini 

Opens up with a deep, forest filled nose with notes of dry tobacco, ceps, dried strawberries and violets. After som time in the glass there is a scent of dried meat. Holds well over the evening.

The taste is round and mature with notes of cold coffee, moist forest floor, dried cherries and a medium long, dry finish. 

88p   (tasted 2023/08)

Coincidently - I got a mail a couple of days ago - apparently my blog is no 73 on feedspots list over the 100 best wine blogs in 2023 - 100 Best Wine Blogs You Must Follow in 2023 (feedspot.com) - seems fitting then to open a (19)73. :-)

Neptuni, Wannborga

Neptuni, Wannborga

This Swedish wine from Öland is a blend of the vintages 2020 and 2022. The cepage is 34% Rondo, 34% Regent and 32% Léon Millot.

The nose is a tad shy with notes of ripening herbs, red currants, stables in a distance and chocolate wafers. Reminds me from time to time of a Cabernet Franc.

The taste is herbal and dry with notes of red currants, dried herbs and cigarette ash. A little foursquare. Interesting enough it improved, both on the nose and palate, after two days in the fridge.

Earlier bottle tasted from Wannborga - Barolista: 2013 Neptuni, Wannborga

85p   (tasted 2023/07)

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Brandini

The cantina has 23 ha of vineyards in La Morra, Serralunga and Monforte, and produces ca 180.000 bottles per year. The current state of affairs started in 2007 but their first vintage was 2010.

Serena took great care of me and poured these fine wines.

2019 Alta Langa Brut

85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, 36 months on its lees. A cool, fine nose with notes of red currants, sand, grey pears and slate. Very, very good.

The taste is young and tight with a good acidity, lots of red currants and chrushed rocks, with a long, distinct finish.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Bianco Rebelle

100% Viognier. Aged in 10% new tonneaux. The nose is big and creamy with notes of peach, grape and ripe flowers. 

The taste is tighter and more spicy with rich yellow fruit and a decent acidity for a Viognier. Long. Very, very good.

88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo Filari Corti

A finely perfumed nose with notes of ripening cherries, licorice, Langhe earth and leather. Very fine.

The taste is structured and silky with lovely fruit, polished tannins and a very fine salty note. 4+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo Del Comune di La Morra

From 4 different parcels. A very fine, classic nose with notes of strawberries, smoke, licorice and leather. Very fine.

The taste is cool and fresh with ripe red cherries, silky tannins and long, delicate finish. Really fine. 6+ years

92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo Annunziata

A tight, focused nose with notes of dark cherries, licorice, moist earth and grounded coffee. Very fine. Some balsamic touches.

The taste is structured and fine with gorgeous black cherry fruit, broad tannins and a long, refined finish. Great wine. 8+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo R56

A deep, concentrated nose with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, ceps and asphalt. Very fine.

The taste is rich and deep with sweet/sour cherries, licorice, dried mushrooms and a hint of chocolate. Very fine tannins. Very long. 10+ years.

94p   (tasted 2023/07)

2013 Barolo R56

When I mentioned that my favourite vintage of the last decade is 2013 Serena was ever so kind to open a bottle. The nose is lovely with a hint of maturity and notes of dried strawberries, bonfire smoke, wet dog (in a positive way) and a fine floral note.

The taste is still tight and fine with notes of dried strawberries, dry licorice, forest floor and leather. Long and fine. In a more rustic style than the 2019, very much to my liking. 4+ years.

93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Immelen, Kullabergs

2021 Immelen, Kullabergs

I tasted this from tank when I visited Kullabergs last year. It was a stunner then and even better today. The nose soars up from the glass with notes of grape, candied lemons, ginger, matchbox and grass. Just lovely.

The taste is crisp and racy with gorgeous notes of ginger pastilles, lemon fudge, chrushed rocks and white flowers. Long and intense. This would knock quite a few overpriced Burgundy GC out of the park.

86% Solaris, 14,5% Souvignier Gris and 0,5% Muscaris.

94p   (tasted 2023/08)

2015 Valtellina Superiore Cà Morés, Sandro Fay

2015 Valtellina Superiore Cà Morés, Sandro Fay

A high, elegant nose with notes of dried flowers, tobacco, red and black cherries and dusty earth. A tad darker and deeper on day two, more earth and tobacco.

The taste is still tight, finely balanced with light, high fruit, silky tannins and a long finish. Better on the palate on day two, a bit denser, sandy, more structure. Still needs 5+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/08)

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Marrone

Tasted this cantinas wines at Grandi Langhe and was looking forward to a visit. Denise, one of the sisters Marrone, took great care of me and poured their whole range of wines.

2022 Langhe Favorita

A open, spicy nose with notes of pears and thai basil. Fine and fresh.

The taste is cool and spicy with a good acidity and some pear and peach fruit. Pure and nice.

86p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Langhe Arneis Tre Fie

A refined, laid back nose with notes of grass, white pepper and white currants. Very good.

The taste is cool and stony with a refreshing acidity and notes of white currants and peach.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Chardonnay Memundis

A fine, almost Burgundian touch with notes of butter cookies, spices, grass and ripe flowers. Very, very good.

The taste is forward and fine with notes of grilled lemons, spices and fudge. A very fine acidity. Long.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Langhe Ottenuto Da Uvo Viognier Servaj

This has been lying in Acacia wood. A herbal, soft nose with notes of grey pears, pine nuts and hay. 

The taste is tight and salty with notes of nuts, grass and herbs. Medium long. Very good.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Rosato Dolcevita

A laid back, elegant nose with notes of wild strawberries, earth and spices. Very fragrant.

The taste is cool and fresh with a good, cleansing acidity and lovely strawberry fruit.

89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Dolcetto d´Alba Superiore Carlot

Aged in big oak casks. The nose is good and warm with notes of earth, blueberries and assorted herbs.

The taste is upfront and juicy with notes of blueberries, red currants and iron. A good finish.

87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Barbera d´Alba Superiore La Pantalera

A large scaled, herbal nose with notes of raspberry licorice, ripe dark flowers and asphalt. A fine perfumed scent.

The taste is high and rich with noted of chocolate covered raspberries, warm earth, licorice and herbs. Very, very good.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Nebbiolo d´Alba Superiore Agrestis

A cool, perfumed Nebbiolo nose with notes of licorice, flowers, violets and asphalt. Very, very good.

The taste is young and perky with notes of ripe cherries, leather, asphalt and a hint of mint. 4+ years.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Barbaresco

A willful, deep nose with notes of hard cherry candy, paint, leather and dried flowers. Very fine.

The taste is tight and elegant with a fine cherry fruit, silky tannins and a medium long finish. 6+ years.

91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo

A fine, earthy, elegant nose with notes of hard cherry candy, orange peel, licorice and gravel. Very, very good.

The taste is nicely structured with silky tannins, fine cherry fruit and some earthy notes. 5+ years.

90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Pichemej

The Pichemej offers up a fine, old school nose with cherries, paint, leather and mushrooms. Very fine.

The taste is earthy and fine with taut tannins and very fine cherry fruit. Paint, cep and leather are noticable in the finish. 8+ years.

92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2017 Barolo Bussia

A deep, dark nose with notes of cooked cherries, Finnish licorice, tobacco and dusty earth. Big and fine.

The taste is broad and dense with lots of cooked cherries, leather, dried mushrooms and tobacco. Long. 4+ year.

92p   (tasted 2023/07)

Two Serious Chiantis

I received these two bottles as tasting samples from the estate. See information about the estate below.

2021 Chianti I Sodi del Paretaio, Badia di Morrona

A young, pure nose with notes of ripe red cherries, Lily of the Valley, iron, Tuscan gravel and bakelite. Interesting and complex. Very fine.

The taste is medium bodied with a fine structure and purity. Sweet/sour cherries, violets, licorice and iron. Long and nicely balanced. 6+ years.

92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Chianti Riserva I Sodi del Paretaio, Badia di Morrona

A deep, dense, gorgeous nose with notes of dark cherries, expensive leather, thyme, Tuscan gravel, fir wood and a hint of chocolate. Lovely.

The taste is concentrated and handsome with a hint of oak and additional notes of cherry pips, tobacco, herbs and chocolate wafers. Polished tannins. Very long. Great wine. 8+ years.

95p   (tasted 2023/07)

Here, in Pisa’s eastern hill country, the Gaslini Alberti family cultivates about 110 hectares of vineyard. Badia di Morrona, located in Terricciola, between Pisa and Volterra, has been owned by the Conti Gaslini Alberti family for almost a century. The heart of the estate is the ancient monastery, Badia di Morrona.

Both versions’ sovereign grape is Sangiovese, grown in vineyards continuously groomed by winds from the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea that both keep the vines dry and temper the summer’s heat. The vineyards are planted deep into clay-based soils that also show alternations of sandstone, rock, grey schist, river cobbles, fossil shells, and alberese marl.

Chianti I Sodi del Paretaio 2022, a cuvée of Sangiovese with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah - fermentation in stainless steel tanks and a subsequent 10-month maturation in traditional concrete vats helped to preserve the nice fruit aromas classic to this wine.

Chianti I Sodi del Paretaio Riserva 2020, 100% Sangiovese, 18 months in 44hl French oak ovals and a brief stay in concrete vats before bottling.