Wednesday, 18 March 2015

A Follow Up Chapter To The Brunello Project

It has been over a year since I concluded my Brunello project. But M has not let go, he has insisted that my project wasn´t over until he had poured some bottles that he had assembled.
A couple of days ago it was time to get to taste them. Or at least we thought so.

But after five hours at M:s place we hadn´t seen a bottle of Brunello. Flight upon flight of white wines came and went. Great wines, don´t get me wrong.

No Brunello´s? The evening had ventured into night and then, then, then!
Two flights of red wines. Could it be? The haunting Brunello´s?

Lets check it out (the whites will be posted in a separate post).
All tasted double blind.

1997 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli, Altesino
This was tasted during my project. Tonight it showed a big, open, somewhat meaty nose with notes of black cherries, black currants (even a bit Bordeaux feeling), sweet violets and damp earth. Very good. A fine maturity.
The taste is mature and warm with notes of ripe black cherries, liquorice, graphite, violets and cold coffee. Long and fine with some sandy tannins still. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)

2000 Flaccianello, Fontodi
M have lately - with 2008 Brunate, Marengo & 2007 Marenca, Luigi Pira - had some fun with us. If fun is the right word...
The concept is easy enough, open a magnum, split into two decanters and present them in a line up with other wines, and lets see if they notice that "two" wines are identical. 
I haven't before and not on this night either. Out of the first decanter - the top part of the magnum - this wine displays a deep, compact and lovely nose with notes of ripe black cherries, dark chocolate, rosenary, pipe tobacco and a hint of mint. A fine sweetness to the fruit. Hints of maturity.
The taste is somewhat mature with a taut structure and notes of black cherry compott, violets, chocolate covered cherries and warm herbs. The finish is long and very balanced. Starting to mature but out of this format, there is no hurry. 
93p   (tasted 2015/03)

2004 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona
The 2006 was a masterpiece, sadly, the 2004 is not. At least if this bottle is representative.
The nose is big, a little bit over the top, with notes of cherry youghurt, balsamic vinegar, hot gravel and dry leather. A bit unfocused.
The taste is big and steady with notes of cooked cherries, violet pastilles, dusty earth and dry tobacco. The finish is long, warm but a bit foursquared. Could this bottle seen some heat?
82p   (tasted 2015/03)

2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione
On the other hand, this bottle showed great on this evening. A tight, intense deep and harmonious nose with notes of just ripe red and black cherries, violets, sweet flowers, sugared coffee and a elegant pine forest scent. Lovely.
The taste is just as intense as the nose, with velvet cherry fruit alongside notes of liquorice, Tuscan gravel and violets. A lot of underlying, sandy tannins. This is a handsome wine, that will drink great now and the upcoming 10+ years.
Earlier Il Poggione bottles tasted - 1994 & 2006, 1990, 2004 and 2001 Riserva
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Colleoni
A new acquaintance for me, and a very good one at that. The nose is deep, young and focused with notes of sour/sweet cherries, expensive leather, coffee powder and a lovely perfumed note. A cool character. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, intense and pure with notes of chocolate covered cherries, rosemary, Tuscan gravel and cold coffee. A crisp, clean character. I would like to taste more from this producer.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)

2000 Flaccianello, Fontodi
This is the other half of the above mentioned magnum. When I look at my notes I see a lot of similarities. But identical? No. This is the bottom part of the magnum, and as with the 2008 Brunate, Marengo, I liked this a tad better. The fruit seemed more pure and sweeter. All in all, a great wine.
94p   (tasted 2015/03)

2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio di Sotto
This stunner has a deep, warm and creamy nose with notes of red cherries, red currants, violets, black tea and a some, from a distance, Cohiba scents. Very refined, even aristocratic.
The first word I jotted down after tasting this, was - damn! A beautiful mix of young power and structure and the most perfect ripe cherries, with additional notes of Tuscan gravel, rosemary and black tea. A long, lingering finish with a fine cool tannin feel. Still very young, this gorgeous creature will be a candidate for perfection in 6-10 years.
96p   (tasted 2015/03)

2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Ucceelliera
The last wine has a deep, fine nose with notes of ripe cherries, damp earth, cigarette ashes and liquorice. Taut and elegant. A fine depth. Still young.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of cherries infused with rosemary, balsamic vinegar and cigarette smoke. The finish is long, seamsless and with a restrained creamy feeling. Very, very fine.


  1. Yes, you must certainly have had a bad bottle regarding the Cerbaiona! We have tasted it twice and been incredibly impression with the precision, depth and complexity and we rate it very high scoring it 97p/100. Probably better than the 2006 in terms of balance.

    Great post and Poggio always shines, at least prior to 2007 when the master himself was there. However, we think that cooler vintages service them even better like 2004.

    1. Thanks for the comment! Yes, more Cerbaiona and Poggio di Sotto is about to be drunk! :-)