Tuesday, 10 March 2015

A Taste Of Borgogno

I was invited by The Wineagency to taste some wines from Borgogno, and to meet their young, energetic, confident Andrea Farinetti.

NV Pierre Peters Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs
As always - Champagne taste better from magnums. This one has a elegant, fragrant nose with notes of elderberries, lemon juice and dry fudge. A fine floral scent. Very good.
The taste is young and cool with nice notes of lemon peel, elderberries, white flowers and gravel. A medium long, balanced finish. Could surely evolve into something really fine.
89p   (tasted 2015/02)

2010 Langhe Rosso
This is bargain for 10 Euro. It has a fine cherry fruit nose with some additional notes of earth, dry chocolate and dried flowers. Not that expressive but very good.
The taste is young, tight and fresh with notes of cherry pips, earth, autumn leaves and a hint of liquorice. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2015/02)

2013 Langhe Rosso
The three years younger version is as good as its older sibling. The nose is more upfront and juicy with even some strawberry aromas.
The taste is young and perky with nice cherry fruit and a salivating acidity. A fine structure. Really good.
86p   (tasted 2015/02)

2013 Barbera d´Alba Superiore
A young, seedy nose with notes of sweet lingonberries, leather and earth. A light peppery note after a while. Good.
The taste is tight and fresh with notes of a lingonberry and blueberry mix and some leathery notes in the medium long finish. Very good.
85p   (tasted 2015/02)

2013 Langhe Nebbiolo
A deep, dark nose with notes of just ripening cherries, asphalt, rose petals and gravel. Fine.
The taste is tight and intense with notes of cherry pips, rosehips, warm gravel and some dry chocolaty notes in the end. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2015/02)

2011 No Name Langhe Nebbiolo
This is in all except the name a Barolo. Andrea made this out of Nebbiolo grapes from Cannubi, Liste and Fossati (see below) but the authorities didn´t think it was typical and he couldn´t put Barolo on the label. The nose is deep and refined with tell tale notes of a Barolo - rose petals, fresh cherries, liquorice and mushrooms. Very, very good.
The taste is young and taut with notes of cherry pips, rosehips, leather and some tar. A long, intense finish with, today, some tough tannins. Wait 3+ years for this. And thanks to the Italian authorities we can buy a fine "Barolo" for 27 Euros.
89p   (tasted 2015/02)

2007 Barolo Riserva
Now it was time for three vintages of Borgogno´s flagship - their Barolo Riserva. I have great memories of their 1952, 58, 64 and 71.
The 2007 has a nose that is deep and quite forceful with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, raspberry liquorice, dried flowers and earth. Young and fine.
The taste is young and taut with lots of ripe cherries, sweet liquorice, warm earth and tar. Some hefty tannins in the long, long finish. Wait 7+ years.
89p   (tasted 2015/02)

1997 Barolo Riserva
The 10 year older version is very fine on the nose with notes of dried cherries, rose petals, flower water and a hint of tobacco. Very fine.
The taste is initially very good with some tight cherry fruit but in the finish the warmth of 97 comes through and it ends with a alcoholic twist and dry tannins.
84p   (tasted 2015/02)

1978 Barolo Riserva
What a surprise - my favourite is the oldest bottle! :-) The nose of this gorgeous creature is deep and complex with notes of dried cherries, old leather, dried roses, pipe tobacco and undergrowth. Very, very fine.
The taste is mature and old fashioned with assorted dried red fruit and notes of tobacco, dried mushrooms, rosehips and worn leather. A long, structured finish with nicely integrated tannins. This I like!
91p   (tasted 2015/02)

Barolo Selezione
As Andrea described it - the Champagne of Barolo - four vintages mixed, the 1996, 1997, 2006 and 2007. And the result? Actually really nice.
The nose is deep and focused with notes of red and black cherries, forest floor, liquorice and a fine floral scent.
The taste is tight and taut with a fine intensity and notes of cherry pips, raspberry liquorice, tobacco and some tarry notes. A long, sturdy finish with some unresolved tannins. This could get even better with 3+ years in the cellar.
90p   (tasted 2015/02)

2010 Barolo Fossati
Lastly, these three barrels samples were poured. The Fossati shows a fine, elegant nose with notes of red currants, hard cherry candy, flowers and hints of tobacco. Very refined.
The taste is tight and elegant with cool cherry fruit and notes of liquorice, Christmas spices and earth. Long and very fine.
90p   (tasted 2015/02)

2010 Barolo Liste
The first vineyard Borgogno bought when the set up shop in 1761...
The nose is seedy and focused with notes of fresh herbs, red cherries, tobacco and mushrooms. Sturdier than the Fossati. Very, very good.
The taste is young and withdrawn with pure notes of fresh cherries, rosehips, tobacco, hard cherry candy and some leather. Very long and intense. Going to turn out great.
92p   (tasted 2015/02)

2010 Barolo Cannubi
The Cannubi displays all the virtues of this famous vineyard. The nose is deep, concentrated and powerful with notes of red and black cherries, gravel, rose petals, ceps and some dark chocolate. Impressive.
The taste is pure, tight and just wonderful with its young intensity and lovely cherry fruit, with additional notes of dry liquorice, tobacco, asphalt and cigar. Darker fruit that the two previous wines. Very, very long. A really fine wine in the making.
94p   (tasted 2015/02)
More impressions here.


  1. You tasted the young Barolo and the old one.........do you think something has changed in the house style of Borgogno last 10 years..?
    My last Borgogno was 1961 Riserva.....15 years ago....it was a bargain ......but since Farinetti arrived all went up

    1. Hard to tell - maybe the younger versions were a little bit "cleaner" in character, but I guess that most producers have been making "cleaner" wines through the decades. I for one love the sometimes funky character that wines from the 40, 50 and 60´s have.