At the last tasting we had in our tasting group, Håkan poured six wines that turned out to be from the same producer, the genius that is Helmut Dönnhoff.
Tasted double blind.
All wines displayed a trademark airy, cool yet focused and concentrated nose with vibrant lemon fruit and lots of minerals. The taste in all of them is mountain river pure with a hint of sweetness and a balancing, riveting acidity. All of them are great wines, below is their individual characteristics.
2005 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
There is a hint of saffron and candied fruit in this one, and the one that feels most developed. Drinking great now.
89p (tasted 2016/05)
2005 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
The Dellchen is more restrained, with great notes of fennel and a warm spring day. The restrained character goes through the taste as well. Really, really fine.
93p (tasted 2016/05)
2006 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
This one with its tongue-twisting name shows of nice aromas of almonds and cap gun smoke, a tight taste with a high acidity, the highest of the six wines. Needs more time.
91p (tasted 2016/05)
2006 Felsentürmchen Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
A cooler, stonier part of Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg becomes Felsentürmchen, and this is a truly great wine! Lots of chrushed rocks mixed up with some dry melon and detergent scents that creates a fine complexity. The taste is more intense and more refined than the others. Just gorgeous.
94p (tasted 2016/05)
2006 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
The Hermannshöhle is, as always, a beauty, with stunning notes of summer flowers and a petrol station in a distance. The taste is sturdy and racy and looong. Needs more time.
92p (tasted 2016/05)
2006 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
Lastly, the Brücke, offers up a deep, pure nose with some dry caramel and ginger. The taste is the biggest of the six but the stunning acidity keeps everything in place. Very, very long. Will also need some time in a cool cellar.
92p (tasted 2016/05)