Tuesday 27 February 2018

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Livia Fontana & Burlotto

Livia Fontana
My first visit to this winery, that lies beautifully on the hills overlooking among others, the Villero vineyard.

2016 Arneis Silver
The Arneis has a spicy, floral nose with lots of chrushed rocks and dried up honey. Fresh and fine.
The taste is cool, stony and clean with notes of spice, lemon peel and white pepper. A fine acidity. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/01)

2016 Rosé
You don´t come across a whole lot of rosé wines in Langhe. A blend of 50% Barbera and 50% Nebbiolo, it sports a fresh nose with notes of red currants, blood oranges and wet stones. Very nice.
The taste is light and floral with notes of red currants, herbs and gravel. Ends a tad short.
86p   (tasted 2018/01)

2016 Dolcetto d´Alba
A slightly perfumed, high toned nose with notes of blueberries, undergrowth and dry asphalt. A bit foursquare.
The taste is cool and berry with notes of blueberries, lingonberries, gravel and dry licorice. Some angular tannins. Good.
84p   (tasted 2018/01)

2015 Langhe Nebbiolo
A fine, medium bodied nose with notes of dried mushrooms, herbs, rosehips and fir wood. Good.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of dried raspberries, gravel and dry tobacco. Medium long. Somewhat angular.
85p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barbera d´Alba Superiore
No, making a Barbera in the cold and wet vintage of 2014 (before the weather changed and rescued the Nebbiolo) wasn´t a great idea. The nose is high and thin with rugged red fruit and moist undergrowth.
The taste is seedy and hollow with some red fruits mixed with notes of detergent and old mushrooms.
76p   (tasted 2018/01)

2015 Barbera d´Alba
The 15 Barbera, from a warm vintage, is much better with a deep, lightly meaty and herbal nose with notes of raspberry licorice, ripe flowers and dark perfume. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied with a fine warmth and notes of raspberries, undergrowth and some tobacco. A fine mouthfeel.
87p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Insieme
The Insieme has a dark, perfumed nose with notes of iron, cranberries, smoke and undergrowth. Open and fine.
The taste is tight and earthy with notes of blueberries, herbs and warm sand. A good tannin structure and acidity. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2018/01)

2013 Barolo Fontanin
The 13 Fontanin displays an open, fine nose with notes of sour/sweet cherries, paint, herbs, rosehips and forest floor. Very fine.
The taste is tight and balanced with notes of ripe lingonberries, raspberry licorice, dry tobacco and rosehips. Fine sandy tannins. 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/01)

2012 Barolo Villero
A tad warmer than the 13 Fontanin, the 12 Villero offers up a deep nose with notes of cooked cherries, a dusty gravel road, roses and leather. High and fine.
The taste is warm and tight with notes of dried raspberries, tobacco, dried roses and gravel. Long and distinct. Very, very good. 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/01)

2011 Barolo Riserva Bussia
A deep, concentrated nose with notes of black cherries, asphalt, rose perfume. forest floor and tobacco. Complex and fine. Very deep.
The taste is broad shouldered yet refined with notes of hard cherry candy, rosehips, tobacco and dry licorice. Very long and fine. Really, really good.
93p   (tasted 2018/01)

Visiting Fabio is a highlight of any trip to Piedmont, meeting one of the nicest guys around. I was eager to try the 14 Baroli since I went gaga over the 13 vintage when we visited in May 2017.
I didn´t went away disappointed...

2016 Pelaverga
An open, direct, fresh nose with notes of red currants, spices, candle grease and incense. High and upliftning. Very, very good.
The taste has a beautiful lightness and airy feeling with notes of ripe lingonberries, spices and white peppers. A fine acidity. Very fine.
90p   (tasted 2018/01)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Aves
A deep, smoky, warm nose with notes of black cherries, raspberries, hot stones and tobacco. Very fine.
The taste is high, pure and with a fine warmth and notes of raspberry licorice, chrushed rocks, tobacco and minerals. Long, juicy and really fine. A great mouthfeel.
92p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo
There is no Acclivi in 2014 so the Normale is pumped up with that juice. The nose is pure and fragrant with notes of red currants, roses, paint and asphalt. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and bright with notes of ripening raspberries, roses, minerals and rosehips. Light on its feet yet with substance and character.
91p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Monvigliero
The 13 Monvigliero was great (but not 100p great as Galloni thought, but his palate is not to be trusted IMHO) and the 2014 is even better!  The nose is hauntingly deep, refined and multi layered with notes of tar, raspberries, incence, fir and sweet minerals. Precious and beautiful.
The taste is racy and refined with gorgeous notes of ripe lingonberries, smoke, paint, a light tobacco touch and minerals. Very long and every bolt and nut are in the right place. A stunning wine.
97p   (tasted 2018/01)

2014 Barolo Cannubi
A great Cannubi, the 14 Burlotto shows a dense, tight, focused nose with notes of black cherries, smoke, forest floor, mushrooms and a some tobacco scents. Very deep. Great focus.
The taste is tight, compact and full of flavour with notes of tar, dark cherries, licorice and tobacco. Ripe tannins that makes a presence in the finish. Very long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2018/01)


  1. Really great report...
    I was expecting more from Fontana wines...but it is what it is..
    Burlotto is probably competing at close with the top 20 Barolo makers...��
    Love your comments about AG taste....had my doubts many times on several wines, and thought was just who do not get it.

    1. Yes, Fabio is up there at the very top. Fontana - the Baroli was very good, not so much impressed by the rest of the lineup, although I wouldn´t mind drinking the Arneis again.