A Barolo Dinner At La Vecchia Signora

After the 2015 Barolo Arborina tasting we all headed to La Vecchia Signora for a Barolo infused dinner with the best Piedmont food in Sweden.

2012 Barolo Gattera, Carlo Revello

A fine, perfumed nose with notes of meaty cherries, undergrowth, licorice and rosehips. Very, very good.

The taste is upfront and finely textured with somewhat mature fruit, silky tannins and a long, warm finish. 3+ years.

90p   (tasted 2021/11)

2012 Barolo Conca, Carlo Revello

A deep, focused nose with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, bay leaves and earth. Open and fine.

The taste is seedy and tight with notes of dried cherries, violets, iron and dried flowers. A fine warmth in the long finish. 5+ years.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

2004 Barolo Vigna Conca, Fratelli Revello

By pure coincedence I brought the 8 year older version of Conca, from the time when the brothers had the estate together. Bought from the estate when visiting in 2008.

The nose is somewhat mature and velvety with notes of undergrowth, dried cherries, Christmas spices and asphalt. Very, very good.

The taste is deep and fine with mature cherry fruit and additional notes of red licorice, forest floor and asphalt. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.

91p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Riserva del Fico, E Molino

The nose is deep and seedy with notes of dried red fruits, sand, rosehips and salt licorice. Very, very good.

The taste is tight and focused with fine red fruits and notes of earth, licorice, salt minerals and fir. A long, dry finish. 6+ years.

88p   (tasted 2021/11)

2006 Barolo Riserva Granbussia, Aldo Conterno

Ooooh yes! Tasted 6 years ago and then I thought it would be perfect now. Still young. The nose is bottomless deep with gorgeous notes of dried cherries, asphalt, mushrooms and a hint of mint. Stunningly gorgeous.

The taste is as much an iron fist in a velvet glove as six years ago with an added hint of maturity, but this stunning creature will go on for 20 years. Soooo fine!

97p   (tasted 2021/11)

2006 Barolo Vigna Rionda, Roagna

A high, intense nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, iron, shoe polish and forest floor. A lovely structure. Still young.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of hard cherry candy, iron, rosehips and dried herbs. Very long with silky yet taut, polished tannins. Needs time.

94p   (tasted 2021/11)

2016 Barolo Paiagallo, Casa E. di Mirafiore

An open, fresh nose with notes of red currants, rosehips, earth and dry licorice. Very, very good.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripening raspberries, asphalt, rosehips and minerals. Needs time. 8+ years.

89p   (tasted 2021/11)

2004 Barolo Vigna Gattera, Fratelli Revello

2004 Barolo Vigna Gattera, Fratelli Revello

I recently drank the 2004 Vigna Conca from the Revello brothers with the 2012 Conca and Gattera from Carlo Revello on the table (notes soon to be posted) so I thought it would be a good time to open the 04 Gattera for comparison.

Glad I did, for this is drinking beautifully right now, with an open, mature nose with notes of forest floor, muscovado sugared dusted ripe cherries, sun warm asphalt, old leather and fried herbs. Very fine.

The taste is forward and velvety with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, raspberry licorice and earth. Very, very good. Very long with a fine warmth. Bought at the estate in 2008.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

Some Chianti´s Of Late

2018 Chianti Classico, Poggerino

A light, enjoyable nose with notes of sour cherries, tiles, dried herbs and cheap tobacco. Very good.

The taste is medium bodied with notes of sweet/sour cherries, dry chocolate biscuits, earth and dried herbs. Light and accessible. Good value for 20 Euro.

87p   (tasted 2021/11)

2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ruspoli, Tenuta Lilliano

A deep, distinct nose with lovely aromas of dark cherries, forest floor, violets, sandel wood, bonfire smoke and expensive leather. Very fine.

The taste is silky and concentrated with notes of hard cherry candy, warm sand, bay leaves, violets and fine tobacco. Very long with polished tannins. 6+ years. A great buy at 40 Euro.

94p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Chianti Classico. Lamole di Lamole

A finely tuned, classic nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, mahogny, rosemary, tobacco and wet leaves. Young, upfront and yummy.

The taste is high and tight with notes of fresh cherries, rosemary, tobacco and Tuscan gravel. Not heaps of complexity but very gulpable. A fine dry finish. Very fine. A real bargain at 15 Euro. 

90p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Chianti Classico Vigna Doghessa, Casanuova di Nittardi

A fine, cool nose with notes of smoky cherry fruit, violets, shoe polish, asphalt and fresh rosemary. High and fine. Very, very good.

The taste is dry and fine with notes of dry tobacco, hard cherry candy, violets and forest floor. Silky tannins. Very fine. 5+ years. Great buy at 22 Euro.

91p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Arborina

Håkan K arranged a fine tasting a couple of days ago with all six producers of Arborina from the very good vintage of 2015.

Arborina is 10,81 ha large and is planted with 58% Nebbiolo, 21% Barbera, 16% Dolcetto and 5% Langhe Rosso. 

The wines were tasted single blind. Even though decanted for 2 hours they needed time in the glass to really open up.

2015 Barolo Arborina, Renato Corino

A deep, dark nose with balsamic cherry fruit, some wood and a fine forest floor scent. A fine warmth.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of black cherries, licorice and fried herbs. Long. Tasted previously in December of 2018, seems to have tighten up and needs more time. 6+ years.

90p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Arborina, Mauro Veglio

A very fine nose with notes of ripe cherries, Christmas spices, earth and rosehips. Very fine.

The taste is structured and racy with notes of hard cherry candy, spices, licorice and earth. Long and fine. 5+ years. Notes on the 2013 and 2016 Arborina.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Arborina, Gianfranco Bovio

Having never tasted the Arborina from Bovio, this was a positive experience. The nose is erthy and fine with notes of dark strawberries, balsa wood, licorice and dried flowers. Deep and fine.

The taste is balanced and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, rosehips and earth. Fine, silky tannins. Very fine. 5+ years.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Arborina, Giovanni Corino

The groups favourite by far, mine too. The nose is high and energetic with notes of ripe cherries, band aid, fresh earth and rosehips. Very fine.

The taste is cool and racy with notes of hard cherry candy, flower water, rosehips and red licorice. Very long with juicy tannins. Great. 7+ years. Note of the 2014 Arborina, and 2013 here.

95p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Arborina, Marco Curto

A finely tuned, deep nose with notes of ripe strawberries, fir wood, Christmas spices and licorice. Very fine.

The taste is rich and intense with a saline touch and notes of dried strawberries, tobacco, licorice and asphalt. A lovely finish. 4+ years. Note on 2001 Arborina.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

2015 Barolo Arborina, Altare 

Some surprised looks around the table when the bottles were revealed. I had glass four pegged as Altare. But no. 

The nose is tight and very concentrated with dark, restrained fruit and a distinct touch of oak. Got better with air. This needs plenty of time.

The taste follows the nose, tight and hard, with lots of concentrated fruit and a sturdy structure, built for the ages. If I was supposed to open a bottle of this I would decant it the day before. 10+ years.

Notes on previous Altare Arborina´s: 1990, 1999, 2012, 2013

90p   (tasted 2021/11)

Some New Releases From Quaffable Wines

I was invited by Quaffable Wines to taste som new releases. Always a treat - thanks!

2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Masures, JeanNoël Gagnard

A wonderul, handsome nose with notes of matchbox, oranges, fennel and lemon cream. High and fine.

The taste is pure and fresh with notes of white peach, oranges and chrushed rocks. Long and fine.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Reserve Pinot Noir, Creation

A fine, spicy Pinot fruit with notes of red licorice, earth and smoke. Very, very good.

The taste is open and fruity with notes of raspberries, smoke and earth. A very fine acidity. Will be released on the 3rd of December.

88p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Ponce, Bodegas y Vinedos Ponce

A high, pure, racy nose with notes of roses, red currants, cool strawberries and minerals. Very fine.

The taste is refined and seedy with notes of red currants, earth, chrushed rocks and a hint of tobacco. A very fine intensity. You don´t often taste this quality from the Bobal grape. A sure buy for 45 Euro. Will be released on the 10th of December.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Suzzane, Oxer

100% Garnacha. This fine Rioja has a open, big nose with notes of dark berries, orange peel, herbs and forest floor. Very fine.

The taste is spicy and open with a fine acidity, crisp dark fruit and a finish with a fine warmt. Yummy. Will be released on the 10th of December.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

2016 Brunello di Montalcino, Mastrojanni

A high pitched, wild nose with notes of dried flowers, mature red fruits, tiles and lots of ripe herbs. Intoxicating.

The taste is intense, seedy and intense with stunning fruit, caressing tannins, a high acidity and a length that goes on and on. For the cellar. Will be released on the 10th of December.

95p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Tamboerskloof Syrah, Kleinood

A cool, peppery nose with notes of red currants, green peppers, sausage and earth. Very, very good.

The taste is spicy and fine with notes of iron, red currants, violets and earth. A fine structure. A real bargain for 20 Euro. Will be released on the 10th of December.

91p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Saint-Joseph, Jean-Claude Marsanne

A cool, ligthly meaty nose with notes of blackberries, sun warm rocks and violets. A fresh, cool nose.

The taste is young and seedy with notes of blackberries, forest floor and lots of violets. Very fine. 5+ years. Will be released on the 10th of December.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Shiraz Viognier, Clonakilla

Always a favourite of mine, the 2018 offers up a deep, tight nose with notes of ripe blueberries, red currants, fresh herbs and a hint of toothpaste. A fine depth. A lovely perfumed nose.

The taste is cool and concentrated with gorgeous fruit, silky tannins and a lovely balance. Great wine. 6+ years, Will be released on the 10th of December.

95p   (tasted 2021/11)

2017 Shiraz Viognier, Clonakilla

The 2017 hasn´t got the intensity and charm that the -18 possess right now but it is a baby brother with all the same treats, and it performs in a very fine manner. 4+ years.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

2017 Barbaresco Rabaja, Bruno Giacosa

A deep, focused nose with notes of cool tobacco, red cherries, chrushed rocks and fresh mushrooms. Very fine.

The taste is refined and silky with notes of red currants, rosehips, minerals and dry tobacco. Very balanced with a fine warmth. 6+ years.

94p   (tasted 2021/11)

M´s Birthday Bash - The Reds

Turning 56. No big deal one would think. M thought otherwise and opened these bottles a couple of weeks ago. All tasted double blind, except for the first two were we were told the vintages, see below.

1965 Barolo, Marchesi di Barolo

A lot of undergrowth, mushrooms, dried cherries and tobacco. Very much alive.

The taste is dry and mature with notes of cherry pips, dry tobacco and forest floor. A tad short on the finish.

85p   (tasted 2021/09)

1964 Barolo Riserva Speciale, Terre del Barolo

M poured these blind to see if 1965 or 1964 is the better vintage… Everyone knows that 1964 is The Greatest Vintage Ever and 1965 is a Complete Washout. However, this 64 did come out short against the Marchesi di Barolo, sometime nature fools you...

A compressed, mature nose with old red fruit, compost, tobacco and canned mushrooms.

The taste is better with a fine warmth and notes of dried cherries, tobacco and dry licorice.

80p   (tasted 2021/09)

2004 Barolo Pié Rupestris, Cappellano

A very fine, maturing Barolo, but a tad advanced for a 04, judgement refered. 

Since the late Teobaldo didn´t want his wines to be scored, I never do   (tasted 2021/03

2004 Masseto

A stunner. A deep, dark, concentrated nose with notes of black cherries, plums, asphalt, herbs and a hint of menthol. Very, very fine.

The taste is large scaled yet harmonious with rick black fruit, boatloads of sweet tannins and a lenght that is counted in minutes. Great wine. 6+ years.

97p   (tasted 2021/09)

2016 Percarlo, San Giusti di Rentenanno

A very young, focused nose with notes of ripe cherries, violets, iron and dried meat. Intense. Needs a lot of time.

The taste is inky and concentrated with notes of ripe black fruits, blood, violets and expensive tobacco. There is lots going on here, needs 10+ years.

95p   (tasted 2021/09)

1995 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline, Guigal

A very refined, somewhat mature nose with notes of rubber tire, damsons, violets and flower water. A fine, low keyed intensity.

The taste is rich and seedy with notes of ripe blueberries, black tea, violets and fresh herbs. A very long, silky finish. Very fine. 5+ years.

94p   (tasted 2021/09)

2016 Syrah Vieilles Vignes, Simon Maye

A very deep, peppery nose with notes of blueberries, red currants, bay leaves and fresh herbs. Very, very fine.

The taste is rich and focused with notes of fresh herbs, undergrowth, blueberries and violets. Very long with polished tannins. Just lovely. 6+ years.

96p   (tasted 2021/09)

2010 Châteauneuf-de-Pape Cuvée da Capo, Domaine Pegau

A very, deep, round nose with notes of garrigue, dried up raspberry jam and hot gravel. A very fine maturity.

The taste is big and brawny with notes of cooked red fruits, scorched earth, dried herbs and sweet tobacco. Very long with a fine warmth.

92p   (tasted 2021/09)

2000 Château Leoville-Las-Cases

It is always a treat to taste a high class Bordeaux. The 21 year old LLC offers up a lovely nose with all the classic elements - black currants, expensive tobacco, gravel, iron and some autumn leaves. Really fine.

The taste is tight and inky with notes of ripe black currants, lead pencil, tiles and tobacco leaves. Finely polished tannins. Great wine. 6+ years. 

96p   (tasted 2021/09)

2018 Mourvédre, Andremilly

A bit too rich for my taste, with very concentrated black fruit covered with vanilla and chocolate aromas. 

The taste is broad shouldered with cooked cherries, hot earth, fried herbs and chocolate wafers. Good quality but not my cup of tea.

87p   (tasted 2021/09)

2016 Tench Vineyard The Calixtro Cabernet Sauvignon, Bevan Cellars

A very deep, tight nose with notes of ripe black cherries, fried onions, iron and fine tobacco. A gorgeous nose.

The taste is tight and focused with notes of ripe black currants, iron, tobacco and graphite. Intense and fine. Very long and fine.

94p   (tasted 2021/09)

Keller, Keller, Keller & More Keller!

As the title of the post indicate...this was a evening of Keller wines. In fact, 17 bottles, courtsey of M. If you were a bidder on the VDP Nahe auction in Bad Kreuznach a couple of days ago there were some real finds to be had, see below...

2018 Weisser Burgunder Trocken

A stony, finely tuned nose with notes of grey pears and allspice.

The taste is tight and fresh with notes of elderberries, white pepper and dry tangerines. Very good in a anemic way.

87p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Grauer Burgunder Trocken

A high, fine nose with notes of grapefruit, ripe lemons and a hint of cardamon. Very, very good.

The taste is fresh and structured with notes of grapefruit, salt stones and white peaches. A very fine acidity. 

89p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Vom Muscheligen Kalk

A spicy, chalky (!) nose wuth notes of red apples, gravel and hay. Very good.

The taste is chalky and fresh with notes of white pears, gravel and dried grass. A tad anonymous.

87p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Weisser Burgunder & Chardonnay Trocken

A cool, fine, fresh nose with notes of white peach, minerals and ripe lemons.

The taste is dry and seedy with notes of white peach, dry tangerines and gravel. Very, very good. A very fine acidity.

89p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Weisser Burgunder & Chardonnay Trocken

The one year younger version has everything that the -18 has but the intensity, ripeness and tension is higher. Very fine.

92p   (tasted 2021/11)

2020 Riesling Von der Fels

A high, dry, intense nose with notes of dry passionfruit, chalk and white flowers. Very fine.

The taste is pure as a mountain river with a great acidity and pure, yellow fruit. Probably the best ever Von der Fels. 8+ years.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

2016 Riesling RR Goldcap

A high, pure nose with a hint of maturity in the shape of a oil coat, petrol and dried yellow fruits. Very, very good.

The taste is balanced and fine with dried lemons, dry grass and minerals. Long and fine.

90p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Riesling RR Reserve Goldcap

A young, racy nose with notes of lemon peel, fresh grass, white peach and minerals en masse. Lovely.

The taste is intense and focused with notes of birch leves, lemon peel, white currants and lots of chushed rocks. A saline touch. Stunning. 6+ years.

94p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Hubacher Riesling GG

A grassy, intense nose with notes of tangerines, flint, white flowers and sweet minerals. Gorgeous.

The taste is tight and refined with notes of dried tangerines, lemon cream and chrushed rocks. Very, very long, 8+ years.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Hubacher Riesling GG

What dreams are nade of. Mine at least. A hauntingly beautiful nose with a spicy character and notes of ripe oranges, wet sand, tangerines and a hint of salt licorice. Soooo fine.

The taste is all structure, finesse and intensity. Hard do describe, like the most refreshing beverage ever. 10+ years.

97p   (tasted 2021/11)

2019 Kirchspiel Riesling GG

The Kirchspiel offers up a spicy, white pepper laden nose with notes of yellow plums, lemon cream and flint. Very fine.

The taste is handsome and finely balanced with notes of ripe oranges, tangerines, rock salt and spices. Very long and distinct. 7+ years.

94p   (tasted 2021/11)

2009 Hubacher Riesling GG

A Hubacker with some age - a treat! The nose is bottomless deep and intense with notes of plums, blood orange, a dried up vanilla pod and sweet minerals. Great!

The taste is refined, structured yet flirty with its gorgeous yellow fruit, dancing acidity and a length that is counted in minutes.

96p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Abtserde Riesling GG

A young, refined nose with notes of Sevilla oranges, sage, dill and wet sand. Very, very deep. Just lovely.

The taste is perfectly balanced with everything in harmony, it just needs 10+ years to strut its stuff.

95p   (tasted 2021/11)

2020 Pettenthal Riesling GG

Its young age prevents me for giving this a perfect score. Wine, and Riesling in specific, doesn´t get better than this. Words can´t do justice to it. If you attended the auction mentioned above you could by a double magnum for 20.000 Euro... I only bought two ;-)

99p   (tasted 2021/11)

2020 Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben

Absolutely fascinating, with a haunting nose with notes of dry passionfruit, lime peel, iron and earth. Bottomless deep. Stunning.

The taste is high, pure and intense with notes of oranges, lime, steel and iron. Sooooo young. A perfect creature in the making, just let the magnums you bought at the VDP auction for 6.800 Euro a piece rest in your cellar for 10+ years.

97p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Bürgel Spätburgunder GG

A very fine, spicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, dark flowers and dried meat. Deep and complex.

The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of raspberries, dry licorice, spices and earth. Very long. A lovely mouthfeel. 5+ years.

95p   (tasted 2021/11)

2018 Frauenberg Spätburgunder GG

A deep, dark nose with notes of ripe raspberries, moist earth, candle grease and dark spices. Very fine.

The taste is tight and seedy with notes of ripe red currants, asphalt, spices and dark flower water. Needs 6+ years. Very fine.

93p   (tasted 2021/11)

Another Keller night 6 years ago

2013 Brut, Palmer & Co

2013 Brut, Palmer & Co

A open, bread filled nose with notes of ripe red apples, nougat, almond paste and sun warm rocks. Very good in a direct, accessible style.

The taste is fine and creamy with notes of dried apple puree, biscuits, grilled lemons and gravel. Very nice. For drinking now and the coming 8+ years. 

90p   (tasted 2021/11)