Saturday, 1 February 2025

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Eating & Drinking


Visiting Langhe is not all about tasting wine, its also a chance to eat really well and actually drink some wine. We managed to do just that. 

Roberto Conterno´s new restaurant, opened in Bovio´s old premises. A nice modern interior, although I prefer the home away from home feeling you get at for example La Coccinella.
The food is very, very good but not in the league of Osteria Veglio or La Coccinella. 
The wine list is a gem, Roberto´s own wines are priced in the stratosphere (one could have thought that this would have been a chance to offer these stunning wines to a larger crowd than millionaires, but no). Besides the heavy hitters you can find lots of wines priced really fairly.

2022 Dives Sauvignon Blanc, Burlotto
The nose is high and fine with notes of freshly cut grass, white currants, birch leaves and gravel.
The taste is pure and dry with a fine acidity and notes of lemon licore, gravel and hay.
88p   (tasted 2025/01)



2023 Langhe Nebbiolo Bricco Lago, Cascina Penna-Currado
We met up with Luca Currado the day after at Grandi Langhe and complimented him on this fine effort (and we also tasted his Barbera, even greater!). 
The nose is deep and layered with notes of violets en masse, shoe polish, licorice and minerals. Very fine.
The taste is spicy and refined with notes of cinnamon, licorice and ripe flowers. Silky tannins. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2025/01)

2016 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, Brovia
A structured, a tad restrained nose with notes of hard cherry candy, bakelite, dried flowers and a fine perfumed note. Opened up nicely and becomes sweeter with air.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of asphalt, red cherries, violets and hints of tobacco. Very long with taut tannins. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2025/01)





2013 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Scavino
A large scaled yet refined nose with notes of ripe black cherries, salmiak, fried nuts, wet gravel and Langhe earth. Simply stunning.
The taste is rich and concentrated with sweet/sour cherries, licorice, coffee powder and violets. The finish goes on and on. Great wine. Glad I have some bottles. 6+ years.
97p   (tasted 2025/01)


Lunch at this Serralunga restaurant with a stunning view. The food is very good but the wine list is out of this world. If you have the money, they have the wine, guaranteed, just look at the pics from the cellar at the bottom of this post. 

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo, Giuseppe Rinaldi
Usually a stunner and from the great vintage of -21 we thought we were in for a treat. But no, a very good wine but not great this time. The nose is deep and handsome with notes of beet roots, smoke and fine spices. Very, very good but doesn´t have the lift it usually has.
The taste is balanced and fine with notes of red cherries, incense and Langhe earth. Medium long. Drink now, according to this bottle.
90p   (tasted 2025/01)





2013 Barolo Sorano, Claudio Alario
A warm, fine nose with notes of dried up cherry jam, fir wood and cough medicin. Opened up nicely in the glass. A fine depth.
The taste is structured and fine with ripe cherry fruit, still perky tannins and a long, warm finish. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2025/01)


Back in the days, around 2008, we were always at Le Torri, when it was managed by the couple who now runs Mangé in La Morra. The years went by and now it was time for a revisit. It is now run by a whole family, we got to meet mother, brother and sister while the father was busy in the kitchen. Great people, lovely food and a fine wine list (but I can´t say I like wine lists on a iPad...)

2023 Langhe Nebbiolo, Burlotto
A cool, elegant nose with notes of red currants, old church furniture, a light peppery note and iron. Very fine.
The taste is pure and silky with juicy red fruit, soft tannins and a long, fresh finish. High drinkability on this one.
91p   (tasted 2025/01)




Finanziera!

2021 Barbera d´Alba Pre-Phylloxera, Elvio Cogno
A very deep, tight nose with notes of plums, ripe black cherries, Finnish licorice, red beet juice and smoke. Lovely in a outgoing style.
The taste is rich and concentrated with notes of dark raspberry jam, licorice, some chocolate notes and asphalt. A very long finish and a cleansing acidity. 
93p   (tasted 2025/01)


The cellar at Tota Virginia:








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