Saturday, 11 October 2025

Eating & Drinking In Piedmont


I go to Langhe for the wines and the winemakers, but the food is almost as important. I love the traditional food of this area - carne cruda, vitello tonnato, plin, tajarin, coniglio and much, much more. 
Here are some notes from the restaurants I visited on my latest trip in September 2025.

La Gemella - Locanda La Gemella
My first visit to this restaurant, located in Barolo, in the square when you arrive in Barolo either from Castiglione Falletto or Monforte d´Alba.
The food was very nice, I would definitely recommend a visit.

2022 Langhe Nas-Cëtta, Mauro Marengo
A cool, low keyed nose with notes of grass, white pepper and birch leaves.
The taste is light and fresh but a tad anonymous with notes of ripening peach, grass and spices.
85p   (tasted 2025/09)

2015 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, Paolo Scavino
A deep, warm nose with a hint of maturity and notes of warm tiles, dried black cherries, charcoal, leather and a whiff of mint. Opens up nicely and becomes more perfumed and layered with air.
The taste is nicely structured with taut tannins, lots of black fruits, notes of dark incense, leather and scorched earth. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2025/09)







Centro Storico
You always visit Ciccio when you are in Langhe, that goes without saying. I have been eating and drinking here for almost 20 years and it is always a treat.

NV Brut, Ernest Remy
This 100% Pinot Noir, a choice by Ciccio, offers up a deep, flowery nose with notes of autumn apples, almond paste and the scent of a Swedish late summer evening. Very, very good.
The taste is fresh and spicy with notes of red apples, dried flowers and thai basil. A very good acidity.
91p   (tasted 2025/09)

2023 Dolcetto d´Alba, Cascina Fontana
A handsome, balanced nose with notes of balsa wood, blueberries, herbs and Langhe earth. Lovely.
The taste is elegant and nicely balanced with crisp tannins and a fine mouthfeel. 6+ years. Also a Ciccio choice!
91p   (tasted 2025/09)








Langotto
Langotto is located in Il Grecale´s previous premises (which the Barolo Boys have visited on several occasions) in Novello. The chef has worked in France and there is a French-Italian touch that is displayed on the plates. Lovely food and service, I will be back.

2021 Il Rosato, Cantina Nervi
Roberto´s Rosé shows of a fresh, open nose with notes of rhubarbs, blood grape and a whiff of smoke.
The taste is fresh and juicy with a fine acidity and lots of sweet citrus fruits. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2025/09)

2016 Barolo Bricco San Pietro, Ruggeri Corsini
A deep, smoky nose with gorgeous notes of dried cherries, rosehips, black tea and shoe polish. A lot of violets with air. Complex and fine.
The taste is structured and fine with a hint of maturity and notes of dried cherries, asphalt, smoke and licorice. Very long.
92p   (tasted 2025/09)

2016 Barolo Riserva Coste di Rose, Bric Cenciurio
A tight, concentrated nose with notes of tapenade, black flowers, asphalt, tiles and warm Langhe earth. Beautiful.
The taste is very handsome, rich and focused with gorgeous black fruit, silky tannins, a taut structure and a lenght that is counted in minutes. Still young, this beauty needs another 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2025/09)







Osteria Veglio
Oh dear. My second favourite restaurant in Langhe (see previous visits below) - the untouchable number one is of course La Coccinella in Serravalle. 
I always look forward to a visit here, only to get let down this time. I hope it is a one time thing.

I have always loved the carne cruda here, but this time is was refrigerator cold and bland. The plin, which always have been the best in Langhe, was cooked a minute or two too long, the taste was the same but vitality wasn´t there. 
I had lunch on a beautiful early September Saturday, the veranda outside was crowded with people, maybe a tad much so, and maybe an explanation to my experience.

2022 Barbera d´Alba, Bartolo Mascarello
But the wine was good! A nicely perfumed nose with notes of ripe flowers, Finnish licorice, autumn earth and smoke. Very fine.
The taste is tight and finely built around a sweet raspberry fruit, a very fine acidity and a long, long, warm finish. A fine note of salmiak. Lovely.
93p   (tasted 2025/09)




Some previous visits to Osteria Veglio:

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