Friday, 26 October 2012
In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter I
This first chapter is focused on some bottles from (almost) the newest vintage on the block. I have seen a lot of 2007 out there, and bought some to, but these bottles were bought earlier this year when I was planning this project.
The Brunello Consortium have awarded 2006 with 5 stars, the highest rating. Some wine journalists have thought that 5 stars is overrated, due to a warm vintage with high tannins and alcohol.
Lets find out what I think with those five bottles below. More 2006 to follow.
2006 Brunello di Montalcino Val di Suga, Tenimenti Angelini
This opens with a deep, seedy, warm nose with fine notes of sweet red cherries, almond paste, new leather, hard cherry candy and some warm, earthy notes. Very good. With air more cherry liquer notes emerge, but not in a over the top kind of way.
The taste is young, big and steady with lots of fresh, juicy cherry fruit and notes of leather, forest floor, pomegranate and some oak flavors. Young, inbedded tannins. The finish is long, warm and fresh. Very good. Needs time though. Not especially warm. Give this 3-5 years.
More info here.
88p (tasted 2012/10)
2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Col d´Orcia
A deep, dark, fruity nose with notes of sweet cherries, dark chocolate, coffee and a nicely perfumed notes. Very young and a bit angular at the moment. Gets better with a few hours in the decanter. Good. Needs time.
The taste is young, seedy and tight with young, fresh cherry fruit and notes of a warm tuscan dusty road, leather, rosehips and a touch of sawdust. The finish is medium long and ends a tad dry. Will maybe flesh out with age? It has a fine core of sweet fruit. Wait and see.
More info here.
84p (tasted 2012/10)
2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Caprili
This is the real thing - a cool, elegant, ethereal nose with gorgeous notes of the sweetest cherries, fine tobacco, licorice, hard cherry candy and a touch of veal meat. Deep and really fine. Just lovely. Mixes hedonism with elegance. Great wine.
This wine flows effortless over the tongue with juicy cherry fruit and notes of warm spices, licorice, rosehips, violets and a touch of chocolate biscuits. A long, long finish. This is a beauty! Would love to follow this one over the years.
More info here.
93p (tasted 2012/10)
The two following were tasted during the summer in Italy.
2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Poggiotondo
A warm, spicy, fine nose with notes of cherry fruit marinated in balsamic vinegar, leather, pomegranate and bonfire. A bit all over the place but there is a fine fruit here. Medium deep. Needs time.
The taste is big, warm and upfront with sweet cherry fruit and notes of licorice, rosehips and rosemary infused meat on an open grill. A bit rustic but very good. With a piece of grilled meat this really worked great.
86p (tasted 2012/08)
2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Silvio Nardi
A really fine, thoughtful nose with lovely notes of sweet and sour cherries, dried herbs, licorice, hay, dried flowers and a touch of rubber - in a positive way. Opens up beautifully with air. Really fine.
The taste is tight, young and focused with notes of sweet cherry pie, lingonberry bushes, tuscan road dust and some new leather. A long, warm finish with a fine balance. Very good and very young. This should be stunning in 4-6 years time.
More info here.
91p (tasted 2012/08)
What to say about the 2006 vintage based on these five bottles? Yes, there is a warmth there in all the wines, but for the most part that is not a problem. I think there is a fine future for all these bottles and would love to drink them again in the future. But a 5 star vintage - based in these five bottles - I don´t think so. But I have to do more tests! :-)
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Thanks for the note. I have only tasted the Col d`Orcia of these in 2006. I think I liked it a bit more than you, but agree that it needs more cellaring. I would gess at least 5 years to open up.ReplyDelete
I think 2006 is a very good and consistent vintage, but it needs time. A lot of the wines are a bit austere and closed down at the moment. I tasted a lot of 06 last year in Tuscany. Some of mye favourites are Salvioni and Poggio di Sotto (a bit expensive, but brilliant wines) - store for 10 years. On the less expensive side is Il Poggione and Talenti. And Le Ragnaie which is a rising star in Montalcino - it actually drinks well already. And also Casanova di Neri and many more...
Thanks Henning for the insights! I have the Salvioni and Il Poggione, but will open those later, the Salvioni in a vertical...:-)ReplyDelete
But what about tomorrow - some 1998´s I think...
hi, i would suggest you to try Brunello Casanova di Neri and specially Brunello Campogiovanni (made by San Felice, the one who makes Vigorello); Campogiovanni 2006 was rated the 4th best wine in the world by Wine Spectator (and it is in my wine cellar!)ReplyDelete
Thanks for the tip! I will see if I can get them.Delete