Wednesday, 30 May 2018
A Mini Vertical Of Rancia, Felsina
This Chianti Classico Riserva has always been a favourite of mine. It usually requires some years in the cellar before really approachable.
The first vintage was 1983. Sadly I haven´t tasted that one but the 1990 was really good a couple of years ago.
The wine is 100% Sangiovese from 3 plots in Podere di Rancia in Castelnuovo Berardenga with various soils. The vinification has changed over the years regarding maturation. In Burton Anderson´s book Best Italian Wines from 2001 the naturation is described as "14-16 months in wood (part in new or once-used barriques ans part in casks)." Nowadays, according to Felsina´s website it is 18-20 months in new French barriques. And there was a different oak touch between the older ones and especially the 2010.
Four fine vintages tasted the other day.
1997 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
This 21 year old displays a deep, round, mature nose with notes of old leather, dried cherries, flower water, tobacco and mocha. Very, very good. With air it resembles a mature Bordeaux. A fine scent of moist forest floor.
The taste is medium bodied, mature and dry with notes of dried cherries, pencil shavings, coffee and granite. A very fine dryness at the end. There is touch of salted black fruit. Very fine. Fully mature.
92p (tasted 2018/05)
2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
There is a hint of maturity on the nose but at the same time copius amounts of fresh, juicy cherry fruit alongside notes of rosemary, ripe flowers, earth, handcream and Tuscan gravel. Just lovely.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of ripe red and black cherries, hard cherry candy, rosemary, sweet lingonberries and bakelite. Very long. A touch of maturity. Aristocratic. Great wine from now and the coming 10+ years.
94p (tasted 2018/05)
2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
The 06 feels a loot younger than the 01. You have to swirl, even with some time in the glass, vigorously to get some notes of ripening cherries, gravel, juniper berries and a hint of violets. A fine depth. Verging on being a tad angular. Need lots of time.
The taste is seedy and upright with notes of red cherries, violet pastilles, chrushed rocks and bakelite. Long and stern. There is fine quality but it feels locked up today. Wait at least 5+ years.
90p (tasted 2018/05)
2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, Felsina
A deep, intense, balsamic nose with notes of dark cherries, coffee powder, violets, almond paste and a hint of chocolate. You can feel that there is more new oak on the nose on this one compared to the other vintages. But a lovely fruit sweetness takes care of it perfectly.
The taste is young, tight yet vivid with notes of licorice covered cherries, tobacco, earth and new leather. Very long and ample. This has lots of potential, give it 5+ years.
93p (tasted 2018/05)