Sunday 2 September 2018

A Vertical Of Puligny-Montrachet Clos De La Mouchere, Henri Boillot / 1996 - 2012


My friend S invited to a exciting tasting of Clos de la Mouchere, this almost 4 ha Monople in the Premier Cru area of Les Perrieres (this Monopole making up almost half of Les Perrieres).

I have always loved this wine, with found memories of bottles from the mid 80´s and early 90´s, but it has been a while since I tasted it, the last being the 2013, drunk at the one of the best fish restaurants in Sweden.

On to this evenings tasting!

2008 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube G.G., Schäfer-Fröhlich
We started with some fine Italian delicatessen and two blind bottles. The first has a fresh, upfront nose with notes of grass, grey pears, white peppers and iron. Young and pure.
The taste is cool and tight wiht notes of earth, pears, steel and dried lemons. A long, structured finish with a high acidity and a fine focus. Still young at ten years of age.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)


2015 Furmint Hold-Völgy, Demeter Zoltán
This was no fun. Foursquare with notes of platic, dry bamd-aid, potatoe water and dried mushrooms. And where is the fruit?
The taste is cool, foursquare with high acidity and dry, dry yellow fruit. For the masochist wine drinker, not for me.
78p   (tasted 2018/08)

Flight One
1996 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
The oldie in the lineup but a real goodie. The nose is deep and mature with notes of dry fudge, old wrinkled red apples, dried flowers and minerals. Fully mature, laid back and lovely.
The taste is like a liquid dry Tarte Tatin with additional notes of moist earth, birch sap, grass and minerals. Long and intense. The first glass that got empty...
93p   (tasted 2018/08)

2002 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A deep, powerful, smoky, intense nose with notes of peach, matchbox, sweet minerals, bee wax and white currants. Very complex and fine. Still very young.
The taste is high and pure with notes of oranges, lemon meringue, pears and lots of chalky notes. Very, very long. Still needs 4+ years. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2018/08)



2008 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A favourite (young) vintage of mine when in comes to white Burgundy. This bottle is a tad low keyed compared to previous bottles, with notes of white flowers, chalk, lime ice cream and minerals. A light, airy touch.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of white peach, lemon peel, grapefruit and lots of chalk. Backwards. A high acidity. Has gone into a shell, wait 8+ years. But there is lots of potential here.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)

2007 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
The 07 sports a cool, fresh nose with notes of almond paste, yellow apples, white currants and matchbox. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with a hint of maturity and notes of dry lemoncello, cap gun smoke, dried flowers and grass. A long, intense finish. Drinking perfectly now and the coming 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)

Flight Two
2009 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A high, pure, intense nose with a wonderful refinement to it and notes of white currants, birch leaves, wet asphalt, cap gun smoke and sweet minerals. Just lovely.
The taste is long and finely tuned with notes of white currants, grey pears, wet stones and some smoky notes. A high, elegant acidity. On top of its game and will stay there for 6+ years. A stunner.
94p   (tasted 2018/08)

2010 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
The 2010 is a beauty, with a deep, racy, smoky nose with notes of lemon cream, sweet green peas, freshly cut grass, dry fudge and chrushed rocks. Concentrated and fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of lime, white currants, grass and sweet minerals. Very long, very intense and very fine. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2018/08)



2012 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A warm elegance on the nose, with notes of ripe limes, melted butter, chalk and a hint of mosquito repellent. Very young.
The taste is deep and concentrated with a lot going on, but not really harmonious yet. Sweet fruit, a good acidity and a fine lenght, but needs to knit it all together. Wait 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2018/08)

2011 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere, Henri Boillot
A high, intense nose with notes of ripe lemons, pears, chalk and some interesting plastic scents. Very, very good. Polished and fine.
The taste is tight and charming with notes of white currants, grey pears, cap gun smoke and birch leaves. A very long finish with a cleansing acidity. Very, very good. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2018/08)

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