The reputable group - Dolcetto Boys & Girls - only four members (and some hangarounds (no prospects yet)) - had its first major tasting a couple of months ago. The big discovery was how great Dolcetto can age, with bottles from the 90´s that were fresh as daisys, well almost.
Flight I
1992 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
The first flight contained some old timers. Old timers that held their own and showed that Dolcetto can age.
The 29 year old Giacosa offers up a fine, forest floor filled nose with notes of dried plums, tobacco and Christmas spices. Mature of course.
The taste is medium bodied and dry with notes of red currants, earth, tobacco and fir wood. Very good.
88p (tasted 2021/12)
A tad VA on the nose that (mostly) blew away alongside notes of dried red currants jam, earth and dry herbs.
The taste is earthy and dry with a fine warmth, dried up red fruits and a dry finish.
84p (tasted 2021/12)
1993 Dolcetto d´Alba Borgo Asili, Lodali
A rather tight, mature nose with notes of dried blueberries, bakelite, tiles and dry licorice. Very good in a ascetic style.
The taste is dry and seedy with lots of dried up blue and black berries, gravel, dry tobacco and a hint of iron. Not a charmer but alive and kicking.
87p (tasted 2021/12)
A warm, spicy, mature nose with notes of dried plums, dry biscuits, violets and earth. Very, very good.
The taste is firm and steady with notes of bakelite, dried black fruits, earth and dry tobacco. A long, warm finish. Mature, but will go on for many years still.
89p (tasted 2021/12)
Flight II
2020 Dolcetto d´Alba Vigna Melera, Roccheviberti
A fine, upfront nose with juicy blueberries, iron and lots of gravel. A fine depth.
The taste is fresh and fine with notes of sloe berries, violets, ink and dry licorice. Very good.
89p (tasted 2021/12)
2005 Dolcetto d´Alba Boschi di Berri, Marcarini
From ungrafted vines, this Dolcetto displays a deep, dark nose with notes of (over)ripe strawberries, salt fudge, asphalt. Different and very fine.
The taste is concentrated and layered with notes of iron, dried blueberries, salt licorice and earth. Very long.
92p (tasted 2021/12)
2017 Dolcetto d´Alba Coste Fossati, G. D. Vajra
A deep, laid back nose with notes of sloe berries, balsa wood, earth and herbs. Very good.
The taste is inky and fine with notes of blueberries, dark roses, herbs and gravel. A good structure.
88p (tasted 2021/12)
2019 Dolcetto d´Alba Coste Fossati, G. D. Vajra
The -19 Coste Fossati is more expressive than the -17 with a high, intense nose with notes of ripe blueberries, forest floor, herbs and a hint of tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of blueberry licorice, asphalt, herbs and ripe flowers. Very long and promising.
91p (tasted 2021/12)
2019 Dolcetto d´Alba Priavino, Roberto Voerzio
A deep, focused nose with notes of cured meat, ripe blueberries, spices and sage. Very fine.
The taste is silky, inky and intense with notes of blueberries, cold coffee, fresh herbs and licorice. High and fine. Great.
92p (tasted 2021/12)
Flight III
2012 Dolcetto d´Alba, Marengo
A dark, spicy nose with notes of ripe blueberries, moist earth, warm tiles and a hint of worn leather. A fine maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of warm rocks, salted blueberries, earth and some tobacco. Long and fine.
91p (tasted 2021/12)
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Marengo
The three younger version displays a tighter, seedy nose with notes of salmiak, damsons, violets and asphalt.
The taste is nicely concentrated with notes of salt licorice, chrushed rocks, violets and gravel. Still young tannins.
88p (tasted 2021/12)
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
A deep, fine nose with notes of blue skiwax, granite, ripe blueberries, sage and a touch of band aid, in a complex way.
The taste is tight and finely concentrated with notes of cherries, blueberries, licorice and iron. Silky tannins. Very, very good.
90p (tasted 2021/12)
2016 Dolcetto d´Alba, Luigi Pira
A deep, tight, focused nose with notes of dark roses, blueberries, sweet minerals and licorice. Very fine.
The taste is taut and rich with notes of salt minerals, licorice, black cherries and iron. A very fine length. Really fine.
92p (tasted 2021/12)
Flight IV
2013 Dogliani Superiore, San Fereole
A deep, and a tad funky nose with notes of red cherries, sand, Christmas spices and cigarette ash. Very good in a sturdy style.
The taste is concentrated and seedy with notes of asphalt, dried cherries, dried sage and some chicken farm notes. High and fine.
89p (tasted 2021/12)
2017 Dogliani Papà Celso, Marziano Abbona
A very fine focused nose with notes of hard cherry candy, violets, salt licorice and bakelite. Luscious and very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, sand and ink. Very fine tannins. Will evolve beautifully.
93p (tasted 2021/12)
2015 Dogliani San Bernardo, Anna Maria Abbona
A deep, seedy and laid back nose with notes of rosehips, earth, red currants and red licorice. Tight and fine.
The taste is taut and tight with notes of red currants, earth, dry licorice and iron. Very long and structiured. Needs 6+ years.
90p (tasted 2021/12)
2017 Dogliani San Luigi, Chionetti
The three bottles from Chionette showed the class of the wines from this estate. I visited 2019 and notes can be read here - Barolista: A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Fratelli Barale & Chionetti.
The -17 San Luigi displays a deep, multi layered nose with notes of red beets, rosehips, iron and minerals. Open and very fine.
The taste is racy and refined with a mix of blueberries and raspberries, salt licorice, iron and rosehips. Very fine. 3+ years.
92p (tasted 2021/12)
The Briccolero is firmer and tighter than the San Luigi, with notes of sweet/sour cherries, tar, minerals and dried flowers. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of paint, dried cherries, asphalt and dried flowers. Very tight tannins. Needs at least 8+ years.
92p (tasted 2021/12)
2017 Dogliani La Costa, Chionetti
The La Costa is a world class wine. The -17 sports a deep, focused nose with notes of Christmas spices, rubber, hard cherry candy and fresh violets. Very fine.
The taste is sappy and seamless with firm, silky tannins, lovely young fruit and a finish that goes on for minutes. Needs 6+ years. Just lovely.
94p (tasted 2021/12)
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