Tuesday, 9 April 2013
Beyond Riesling With Theresa Breuer
I was invited by VinUnic to a tasting with Theresa Breuer where the new 2011 Berg Rieslings were presented. But also some other, more or less, interesting wines from other grapes, some really odd ones, see below. Theresa Breuer presented the wines with charm, knowledge and wit!
More info here.
2006 Brut, Georg Breuer
This is one of the three sparkling wines they produce, this one made from Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. The nose is a bit shy with notes of dried herbs, grilled lemon, gravel and some litchi. Nice enough. Becomes more open and sweeter when it gets warm in the glass. Good.
The taste is dry, tight and a bit foursquared with notes of lime, lemon, oyster shells and dried grass. Lots of minerals in the finish. Pure and fine but in the end somewhat anemic.
86p (tasted 2013/04)
2012 Sauvage Riesling, Georg Breuer
A young, upfront, easy nose with lots of pear ice cream, grass, gooseberries and white currants. Fresh, nice and uncomplicated. Should get more focused with 1-2 years in the cellar.
The taste is cool, fresh and gulpable with a nice length and notes of pear, lemon and gravel. Will fleshen out. For 13 Euro it is a bargain.
84p (tasted 2013/04)
2011 Terra Montosa, Georg Breuer
This is a "second wine", in the sense that it comes from the four Riesling "Cru´s", and from grapes that don´t meet the criterias to be a part of those wines.
A young, somewhat restrained nose with notes of green apples, chalk and unripe melon. This needs more time but there is fine fruit here.
The taste is young, tight and fresh with high acidity and notes of lemons, melon and lots of wet stones. A good structure and decent length. Give this 3-4 years in the cellar and I guess it will show more of itself.
86p (tasted 2013/04)
2011 Orleans, Georg Breuer
The first of the "odd ones" :-) A grape that I never have tasted. The nose is fresh and pure but even with some vigorous swirling, you don´t get much out of it. Some notes of cucumber, lemons and gravel floats up from the glass, but this is a shy creature. Correct.
The taste is tight, dry and a bit angular with notes of dried up lemons, melon and a hint of vanilla. In the medium long finish there is a alcohol warmth. Not for me.
78p (tasted 2013/04)
2011 Weisser Heunisch, Georg Breuer
Another first for me! An interesting nose with notes of grapefruit, dried honey, grass and gravel. A willful, character. Very good. Medium deep. This I like!
The taste is fresh, ripe and full of interest with notes of grey pears, grapefruit, melon and slate. The finish is medium long and ends almost completely dry. Not the most serious wine but its oozes charm and I would gladly buy some bottles but with only 140 bottles produced, I assume I won´t be getting any...:-(
89p (tasted 2013/04)
2009 Grauer Burgunder, Georg Breuer
On slightly more familiar ground, this Grauer Burgunder has a fat, ripe nose with notes of pears, licorice, rubber and bonfire. Medium deep. Lacks a bit of freshness.
The taste is young, creamy and dry with notes of pears, summer flowers, gravel and licorice. There is some alcohol warmth in the end of the finish. Just good.
81p (tasted 2013/04)
2009 Spätburgunder "B", Georg Breuer
Well, this isn´t good. The nose is unripe with immature lingonberries and rasberries with additional notes of earth, dark chocolate and some dirty notes, which in Pinot can add complexity. In this case it doesn´t. The oak steamrolls the weak fruit. No.
The taste is thin, tight and seedy with unripe lingonberries, angular acidity and medium long, dry finish. No, no.
68p (tasted 2013/04)
2011 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck, Georg Breuer
A fine, elegant, cool nose with lots of spicy Riesling fruit and notes of grilled lemons, dried honey and slate. With air there is a touch of lavender. Very nice.
The taste is young and tight with a fresh, high acidity and some lightly vanilla powdered lemons. Fine fruit but a bit locked in at the moment. Give this 3-5 years before doing the deed.
87p (tasted 2013/04)
2011 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland, Georg Breuer
A cool, elegant and restrained nose with light notes of lemons, grey pears road dust and balsa wood. A nice depth. After a while there is a complementary pefumed note lingering over the lemons. Real nice.
The taste is young, tight and fresh with lemons, lemons and lemons. At first anyway, a little later some notes of pears, licorice, slate and dried flowers can be detected. A very fine acidity. For the lang haul.
88p (tasted 2013/04)
2011 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg, Georg Breuer
Now here we are a few steps up the quality ladder - a deep, intense, spicy nose with notes of lemon cream, licorice, wet asphalt, ripe melon and crushed rocks. Very, very fine. Has a lovely spicy character.
The taste is tight, focused and fresh with notes of grilled lemons, pears, gravel, dried flowers and a touch of licorice. A very fine balancing acidity. Long and fine. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. This has a fine future ahead of itself, as the 1993 recently proved.
92p (tasted 2013/03)
2011 Raunthal Nonnenberg, Georg Breuer
A very young, uptight and restrained nose greets you when you put your nose in the glass. But wait, for things are about to happen. With air it evolves nicely and lovely notes of green apple sorbet, melon, grass, white currants and road dust emerge. This has potential. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, intense and focused with promising structure. Teethgripping acidity but with the fruit to back it up. Needs some serious cellar time but I´m sure that my score will look conservative in 8+ years.
91p (tasted 2013/04)
2008 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Auslese, Georg Breuer
A deep, semi sweet, fine nose with notes of pineapple, sugared ice tea, warm grass and some smoky notes. Very good.
The taste is medium intense and racy with a nice sweet/sour note and notes of ripe pears, star fruit and chalk. The acidity could have been more pronounced. Good though.
86p (tasted 2013/04)
Thanks to VinUnic for the invite and to Gastrologik for the delicious food!
More impressions here.