Sunday, 10 February 2019

2013 Barolo Villero - Eight Bottles Tasted


I love the 2013 vintage in Barolo. I have previously written this about the vintage:

What to say about the vintage then? The one thing that striked us when tasting these wines is that - even though there are minor and major differences between for example the wines from La Morra compared to the ones from Serralunga or the differences between upbringing in old Slavonian oak or barriques (although the major part of the producers that have been using barriques are cutting down on the time the wines spends in them or abandoning them altogether) - all wines showed a racy, energetic freshness.

They are more floral than usual, the red fruits are more forward (especially strawberries - some are almost Burgundian like), there is a sweet/sour sensation to the fruit that is really fine, the tannins are sappy and very silky, and they are very fresh, lively, vibrant and almost gulpable.

Are these wines for the short term then? They will not need as much time as the 2006 or 2010 to come around, but make no mistake, even though they seem almost ligth and airy there are more stuffing to them than are immediate noticable. I must confess being smitten by this vintage and will buy plenty (update - I have...).

2013 Barolo Villero
I had amassed bottles from all (but one, Pugnane Fratelli Sordo) wine growers that bottle a Villero (except for those that only make a Riserva, Franco Molino and Vietti (from 2015/2016 there are two more producers that will release a Villero, Francesco Sobrero (only Riserva) and Angelo Germano)).
It turned out to be a interesting tasting, held in May of last year.

Villero lies in Castiglione Falletto, the area is 22,07 ha and Nebbiolo makes up 90% of the vines. Alessandro Masnaghetti describes Villero´s soil with "the typical marls of Castiglione Falletto, which give....more structure and less finesse".
That turned out to be a fair assessment. These were no upfront charmers, but more restrained and backward, more earthy and mineraly than fruit forward and floral.
However, I will venture that will age well and become more open and inviting in due course,

Flight I
2013 Barolo Villero, Sordo
A dark fruity, seedy nose with notes of spices, licorice, asphalt and chrushed rocks. Medium deep.
The taste is tight and structured with notes of spices, earth, dried red fruits and bakelite. Long and seedy. Definitely needs time, 8+ years.
87p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Villero, Oddero
On the nose there are some cool mixed red fruits alongside notes of earth, clay, dark roses and tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is pure and racy with notes of red currants, plums, earth and a hint of mint. Long and balanced. Tight tannins. This is really fine and will become even better with 5+ years in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Villero, Giuseppe Mascarello
A cool, restrained nose with a light earthy character and notes of red currants, red tea, bakelite and forest floor. An understated elegance. Very, very good.
The taste is cool, deceptively light (the only wine with ”just” 13,5% alcohol) with fine red fruit notes, sandy tannins and a long, balanced finish. For drinking now and the coming 10 years. Lovely.
92p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Livia Fontana
The Fontana displays an open, warm nose with notes of soot, dried red fruit, tobacco and earth. A fine warmth. Round and fairly generous.
The taste is more tight than the nose leads you to believe, with structured tannins, ripe cherry fruit and a long, concentrated finish. 4+ years.
89p   (tasted 2018/05)


Flight II
2013 Barolo Villero, Fenocchio
A deep, fine, flowery nose with notes of dried roses, red currants, clay and dry tobacco. A fine balsamic note. Very deep and fine.
The taste is concentrated and focused with notes of ripe red cherries, forest floor, asphalt, minerals and tobacco. Very long and intense. Finely polished tannins. Wait 5+ years and this will be spectacular.
93p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Enrico VI, Cordero di Montezemolo
A whole other ballgame! Oak, lots of oak, in an oaked Rioja style… Very ripe cherry fruit, spices and earth, but its covered by the oak.
The taste is dry and warm with lots of oak and cherry fruit. On this occasion, not good. (I retasted all wines two days after and then the oak had drastically subdued and the fruit came forward much more.) But on the night in question it will get
84p   (tasted 2018/05)


2013 Barolo Villero, Brovia
Brovia has fashioned a stunning Villero, with a deep, balanced, complex nose with notes of violets, roses, paint and masses of ripe red currants and red cherries. A touch of bonfire after a while. Handsome. Really fine.
The taste is concentrated and racy with notes of chrushed rocks, dried red fruits, clay, a hint of tobacco and roses. The tannins are perfectly polished. Very, very young still, this beauty needs 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2018/05)

2013 Barolo Villero, Boroli
A deep, spicy nose with notes of forest floor, dried strawberries, moist earth and a touch of dog fur. A tad burly in a good way.
The taste is dark and tight with notes of red cherries, mushrooms, tobacco and earth. Some rustic tannins. Long and warm. Very good. 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2018/05)



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