Sunday, 6 October 2019

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visits To Virna Borgogno & Vite Colte


My last day in Piedmont on this trip. Six visits lined up - lunch is for whimps!

Virna Borgogno
Virna joined her father right out of winemaking school in 1988 and in 2001 she took over as winemaker of the 12 ha large estate. Virna graciously met up with me early in the morning and poured these fine wines.

2017 Langhe Rosso Le Sorelle
Open, fruity and earthy, this is nice with notes of red currants, dry tobacco and herbs.
The taste is light, fresh and very approachable with notes of fresh red berries, gravel and some tobacco flavours.
85p   (tasted 2019/09)


2016 Langhe Nebbiolo
This Nebbiolo comes from Virna´s vineyard in Monforte. The nose is medium deep, forward and nice with notes of cherries, dried flowers and gravel. Very good.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of dried cherries, licorice and herbs. A fine tannin structure. Very, very good.
87p   (tasted 2019/09)


2015 Barbera d´Alba San Giovanni
From 40 year old vines, this Barbera is stunning, with notes of spicy strawberry fruit, dry licorice, dark flowers and a hints of dry chocolate. Very fine.
The taste is structured and fine with notes of raspberry licorice, earth, dried flowers and minerals. A very fine acidity and firmness. Long. Really fine.
91p   (tasted 2019/09)

2013 Barolo
From grapes in Novello, Verduno, La Morra and Monforte, this 13 Barolo shows of a nose with notes of cranberries, asphalt, rosehips and mushrooms. Very, very good.
The taste is fine and structured with notes of dried strawberries, cranberries, rosehips and mushrooms. Old school style and very fine.
90p   (tasted 2019/09)


2014 Barolo Cannubi Boschis
The oldest part of Virna´s parcel in Cannubi Boschis is 40-45 years, and that part gives a deep, refined nose with notes of perfumed strawberries, rose petals, violets and sweet minerals. Very fine.
The taste is low keyed and very elegant with notes of wild strawberries, sand, minerals and dry licorice. Very, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2019/09)


2014 Barolo Sarmassa
The Sarmassa is deep and structured with notes of hard cherry candy, dark licorice, undergrowth and dry tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is compact and structured with notes of old school cherry fruit, dark earth, violets and dry licorice. Very long and impressive. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2019/09)

2013 Barolo del Comune di Barolo
The 13 Comune Barolo comes from Preda (85%) and Sarmassa (15%). The nose is open and fine with notes of cranberries, earth, rosehips and dry tobacco. A fine depth.
The taste is tight and structured with a fine balance, rugged tannins and sweet cherry fruit. Long and fine. 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2019/09)


2015 Barolo Cannubi Boschis
The 15 Cannubi has the same characteristics as the 14 above but with added depth, a warmer strawberry fruit and a fine flowery note. Very fine.
The taste is high and intense with lovely notes of sweet minerals, licorice, sand and dried flowers. Very refined. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/09)


2015 Barolo Sarmassa
The 15 Sarmassa is more backward than the 14 and even more structured. This will need 10+ years to show it real potential. Great wine in the making.
93p   (tasted 2019/09)

2016 Barolo Cannubi Boschis
From cask. A touch subdued compared to the 14 and 15 but the raw material of something great is there. Very refined. Can´t wait to taste it again when released.
~92p   (tasted 2019/09)


2016 Barolo Sarmassa
The same goes for the Sarmassa, great potential but locked up for the moment.
~92p   (tasted 2019/09)

2006 Barolo Preda Sarmassa
Virna was ever so kind and opened this 06 Preda Sarmassa. The nose is wonderful with a beginning maturity and notes of paint, wild strawberries, asphalt and worn leather. Very handsome.
The taste is cool and elegant with round, sweet red fruit, silky tannins and a long, balanced finish. Tar and roses in the finish. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2019/09)



Vite Colte
Vite Colte is the premier line up of Terre da Vino (just as the ArnaldoRivera line up is for Terre del Barolo). Gregorio, who I met earlier in Stockholm, met me, showed me the vast cellars and poured these fine wines.

Some barriques...
2018 Barbera d´Asti Rossofuoco
A big selling wine in Sweden, this light Barbera displays notes of rhubarb, ripening raspberries and dry licorice.
The taste is light and fresh with notes of bakelite, raspberry licorice and gravel. Very nice in a easy going way but doesn´t lack complexity and depth.
88p   (tasted 2019/09)

2016 Barbera d´Asti Superiore La Luna e I Falò
This Barbera is more structured and shows a deep, sweet raspberry fruit on the nose alongside notes of smoke, earth and Finnish licorice.
The taste is ripe and concentrated with notes of asphalt, cherry licorice and dark flowers. A long finish with a fine acidity. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/09)


2016 Langhe Nebbiolo La Malora
90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera. The nose is cool and earthy with notes of dried strawberries, chrushed rocks and dry tobacco.
The taste is young, tight and complex with a fine mix of strawberries and raspberries with additional notes of paint, violets and rosehips. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/09)

2015 Barolo del Comune di Barolo Essenze
A fine, open nose with a creamy, warm fruit and notes of sun warm rocks, ripe red cherries, licorice and Christmas spices. A fine depth.
The taste is dry and tight with sandy tannins and notes of ripe red cherries, asphalt and rosehips. Long and balanced. Very, very good. 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2019/09)


2008 Barbaresco Riserva Spezie
A lovely, deep, pure nose with notes of a mushroom forest, hard cherry candy, paint and smoke. A hint of maturity. High and really fine.
The taste is multi layered and silky with notes of dried flowers, chrushed rocks, mushrooms and dry licorice. Long and intense. This is stunning. 4+ years.
94p   (tasted 2019/09)




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