Cellar master Odilon de Varine presented the wine with flair, wit and charm.
NV Grand Rosé Brut
50% each of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it displays a earthy, lingonberry laded nose with some additional spices. Very nice.
The taste is dry and earthy with notes of dry raspberries, mushrooms and spices. A fine acidity. I liked it more this time than in January.
89p (tasted 2019/10)
NV Grande Réserve Brut
A fine, stony, flinty nose with notes of lemons, peach and cap gun smoke. Chardonnay on the nose although that is only 45% of the blend (the rest is 45% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier).
The taste is cool and crisp with notes of lemon cream, smoke and dry caramel. Long and fine with a salivating acidity.
91p (tasted 2019/10)
NV Grand Blanc de Blancs
Restrained and classy on the nose, with notes of white peaches, wet asphalt and dry white raisins. Very fine.
The taste is high and energetic with notes of chalk, steel, lime and smoke. Very long. A racy acidity. Lovely.
93p (tasted 2019/10)
2012 Grand Millésime
The nose is handsome and elegant with notes of dry fudge, smoke, lemon cream and red ski wax. Very deep, steely and fine.
The taste is luscious and creamy with notes of ripe peaches, smoke, chalk and caramel. Very finely balanced. Still young. Great wine in the making. 6+ years.
93p (tasted 2019/10)
2006 Grand Millésime
This bottle was much better than the one tasted in January. This has a added depth and complexity on the nose with notes of grey pears, dried flowers, nutmeg and a fine salty scent. Fine mature notes.
The taste is racy and generous with notes of dried peach, sand, iodine och white currants. Very long and balanced. Very fine.
94p (tasted 2019/10)
NV Grand Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut
The two following wines were also tasted in January and both behaved better today. The base (95%) is 2007, the same vintage as the two Celebris below. The Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir) has a beautiful, old viney nose with notes of red currants, salty salmiak, sun warm rocks and a hint of dark chocolate. Very deep and refined.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe red currants, iron, red beets and sweet minerals. A long, seedy finish. Very fine.
93p (tasted 2019/10)
NV Grand Blanc de Meunier Extra Brut
Bottled after 9 years on the lees, this stunner showcases a high, pure, intense nose with notes of dried figs, red apples, dark flowers and chrushed rocks. Very deep and refined. Just lovely.
The taste is vivid and complex with notes of red currants, smoke, clay and dried flowers. The acidity complements the fruit perfectly. Very, very long. 6+ years. Only 5.000 bottles made of this beauty. Glad I have some.
96p (tasted 2019/10)
2007 Celebris Extra Brut
The both 2007 Celebris were also tasted in January and they behaved more or less identical. The nose is delicate and complex with notes of spices, lemon cream, yellow roses and chalk. A fine intensity and depth.
The taste is focused and tight with notes of almond paste, chalk, red currants and smoke. A crisp acidity. Long and vigorous. Really fine. 4+ years.
93p (tasted 2019/10)
2007 Celebris Rosé Extra Brut
A very fine, open nose with notes of grapefruit, red currants, iron and Christmas spices. Very deep and fine.
The taste is racy and fine with notes of dried strawberries, red currants, iron and earth. A very fine acidity. Very, very long and distinct. Great wine.
94p (tasted 2019/10)
1983 Grand Millésime
This 26 year old wine, direct from cellar of Gosset, sports a deep, multi layered nose with notes of autumn leaves, cold coffee, band aid and dried strawberries. Fresh and fine.
The taste is dry, complex and fine with notes of dry fudge, earth, orange peel and smoke. Round and very fine. Long.
91p (tasted 2019/10)
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