Monday 29 April 2019

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Visits To Terre Del Barolo & Elvio Cogno

Terre del Barolo/ArnaldoRivera
The ArnaldoRivera project started with the 2013 vintage. The name is a celebration to Terre del Barolo´s founder, a true Barolista. So far there are seven Cru´s and one blend.
We met up Gabriele Oderda at the Grinzano Cavour Castle, checked out the nearby vineyards and then drove to Rocche di Castiglione. Back at Terre di Barolo we tasted the following.

2017 Diano d´Alba Sorì del Cascinetto
This Dolcetto offers up a spicy, dusty nose with notes of damsons, ripening blueberries and wet stones. A fine, light, salivating nose.
The taste is spicy and fine with notes of blueberries, bakelite and dusty earth. A fine, low keyed warmth. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2019/04)

2016 Barbera d´Alba Valdisera
2015 was the first vintage of the Barbera. The 2016 has an open, medium bodied nose with notes of dried raspberries, licorice and herbs. Very good.
The taste is big and warm with notes of raspberry licorice, chrushed rocks and undergrowth. A hint of oak in the finish.
86p   (tasted 2019/04)

2014 Barolo Undicicomuni
Grapes from all 11 villages in the Barolo growing area make up this wine. The nose is low keyed and fine with notes of roses, paint, lingonberries and road dust. A good depth. Very, very good.
The taste shows some maturity with a fine structure and notes of damsons, earth, iron and dried flowers. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2019/04)

2014 Barolo Castello
A refined, deep nose with notes of rhubarb, wild strawberries and tobacco. Cool and fine.
The taste is tight and multi layered with notes of warm tiles, strawberries and earth. Vibrant and fine. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2019/04)

2014 Barolo Bussia
A tight, dusty nose with notes of spicy licorice, rubber, cherries and a hint of mint. Very good but a bit akward at this stage.
The taste is better with a fine concentration and notes of ripe red cherries with a hint of mint alongside licorice, chrushed rocks and earth. Very, very good. 5+ years.
90p   (tasted 2019/04)

2014 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
The Rocche is a stunner. The nose is deep and refined with notes of cool cherry licorice, undergrowth, rosehips and paint. Energetic and very fine.
The taste is tight and complex with notes of ripe red cherries, roses, earth and licorice. A long, lingering finish with polished tannins. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2019/04)

2016 Langhe Nascetta
We finished with this tasty Nascetta. It has a cool, lightly smoky nose with notes of melon, dried lemons, pears and gravel. Pure and fine.
The taste is cool and fine with notes of minerals, melon, lemon and wet stones. A fine, salty touch. Very yummy.
88p   (tasted 2019/04)

Elvio Cogno
My first visit to this estate and my first meeting with Valter Fissori, but hopefully not my last, for this was for me the highlight of this Barolo Boys tour (alongside the time we spent with Elisa Scavino).

2018 Anas-Cëtta
I love Nascetta and the Cogno version have no superiors. The 2018 which was just bottled when we tasted it, showcased a steely, pure nose with notes of peach kernels, white currants, grey pears and grass. Very, very good.
The taste is elegant and racy with a fine acidity and notes of white pepper, white currants, chalk and grass. Silky, classy and lovely.
91p   (tasted 2019/04)

2016 Anas-Cëtta
Since we raved so much about the 18, Valter was ever so kind and fetched a bottle of the 2016. This has a spicy nose with notes of sage, white pepper, pears and chrushed rocks. Crisp.
The taste is cool and tight with notes of chalk, salt stones, white currants and pears. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2019/04)

2018 Dolcetto d´Alba Mandorlo
This was bottles just a week ago, and displays notes of juicy blueberry fruit, gravel, lots of violets and a hint of smoke. Lovely. High and fine.
The taste is perky and energetic with notes of blueberry juice, chrushed rocks, dry licorice and bakelite. A luscious mouthfeel.
91p   (tasted 2019/04)

2018 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli
The grapes for this Langhe Nebbiolo comes just outside of the Barolo area. 30% whole cluster. The nose is fresh and open with notes of smoky red currants, wild strawberries, warm sand and ligth floral scents. Very fine.
The taste is balanced and elegant with notes of spicy, almost mature raspberries, sweet minerals, smoke and sand. Pure and very fine.
92p   (tasted 2019/04)

2017 Barbera Bricco dei Merli
A fruity, open Barbera with notes of raspberry licorice, sloe berries, smoke and herbs. Deep and very fine.
The taste is dense yet refined with lots of sweet red fruit balanced with a racy acidity. Very long and rewarding. A really fine Barbera.
93p   (tasted 2019/04)

2017 Barbera d´Alba Pre-phylloxera
I love the Pre-phylloxera from Valter. We had a great bottle of the 2016 at Centro Storico but the 2017 is even better. The nose is high and intense with stunning notes of perfectly ripe raspberries, dry licorice, veal stock, dark perfume and ink. Soooo deep.
The taste is velvety yet concentrated and refined with notes of ripe cranberries, raspberry licorice, wood smoke and warm tiles. This has power and yet heaps of finesse. Just brilliant.
96p   (tasted 2019/04)

2016 Barbaresco Bordini
A noble, finely tuned nose with notes of hard cherry candy, mineral, sand and rosehips. Laid back and very fine.
The taste is pure and elegant with notes of ripe red currants, herbs, gravel and rosehips. Very handsome. Lovely.
92p   (tasted 2019/04)

2015 Barolo Cascina Nuova
The 2015 Baroli from Elvio Cogno are works of art. The Cascina Nuova displays an open, wonderful nose with notes of ripe red cherries, mushrooms, rosehips and cool tobacco. Very balanced and utterly pure.
The taste is silky and concentrated with pure fruit and notes of roses, rosehips, ceps and hard cherry candy. Very, very long and balanced. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2019/04)

2015 Barolo Ravera
The Ravera is even better with a nose that is earthy, smoky, focused and ethereal. Gorgeous ripe red fruits and some floral, earthy scents. Just stunning.
The taste is pure and vigorous with notes of hard cherry candy, paint, dry licorice and fine herbs. The finish goes on for minutes and the tannins are silky and sweet.
95p   (tasted 2019/04)

2015 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice
I actually liked the Bricco Pernice the least of the 15´s, but given a score of 93p there is things to like here... The nose is deep and handsome with notes of spices, ripe red currants, almond paste and hints of tobacco.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of herbs, ripe lingonberries, leather and forest floor. Tighter and leaner than the previous two, but the fruit is pure and luscious. Just needs time.
93p   (tasted 2019/04)

2013 Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena
I am glad I have bought this, for this is a world class wine. The nose is high and intense with notes of morelles, dark flowers, rosehips, paint and raspberry licorice. Very, very deep and refined. Gorgeous.
The taste is brilliant with everything in place - fruit, tannins, structure, balance - it just needs 8+ years in the cellar. This is perfection in the making.
97p   (tasted 2019/04)

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