Friday 2 February 2018

Wines Of New Years Eve - Leroy, Keller, Mascarello, Sandrone, Burlotto & More

One month since New Years Eve, the notes are piling up...
The evening was spent at home with close friends, great food (if I may say so myself who cooked all the food...) and some nice bottles of wine.

It didn´t start that well though, since the bottle of 1995 Dom Perignon I opened was horribly corked.
Well, it got better.

1995 Brut, Comtesse Marie-Louise
The backup bottle was a nice surprise, with a mature, round, generous nose with notes of red autumn apples, mushroom cream, stale bread and sun warm rocks. Fully mature and fine.
The taste is medium bodied, mature and creamy with notes of almond paste, ripe red apples, tiles and minerals. A fine upliftning acidity at the end. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2017/12)

1982 Bourgogne, Leroy d´Auvernay
If I would make a guess - Leroy made no white Premier or Grand Cru´s in 1982, so all that juice was blended into this Bourgogne, for this is the real thing. A deep, silky, gorgeous nose with notes of ripe oranges, tangerines, smoke, vanilla fudge and parsnips. A lovely maturity, but barely so, still perky. Stunning.
The taste is refined and racy with notes of candied lemons, smoke, para nuts and tangerines. Sweet minerals. Long, long and mouth coating. Delightful. Perfectly mature and a wine that perform way over its Bourgogne level.
95p   (tasted 2017/12)

2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatierès, Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet
A fine, smoky, cristallin nose with notes of candied lemons, salty biscuits, chrushed rocks and birch leaves. Very elegant and with some mature features.
The taste is dry and expressive with notes of tangerines, lemon cream, almonds and cap gun smoke. A long, mineral laden finish. Drinking really fine but 3+ more years in the cellar wouldn´t hurt.
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

2008 Westhofen Kirschspiel Riesling Trocken, Keller
Last tasted two years ago and this is evolving at a snails pace because it felt exactly the same - the freshly cut grass is there, a hint of rubber and with a very fine depth.
The taste is pure, exact and racy with great yellow fruit and a zingy acidity. Needs another 5 years (at least).
93p   (tasted 2017/12)

The Cannubi line up!

1996 Barolo Cannubi, E. Pira
A sweet, mature, forthcoming nose with notes of dried cherries, a mushroom forest, dry licorice and coffee. Round and fine, with a fine depth.
The taste is dry, mature and fine with notes of cherries, dry licorice, dried flowers and violets. A fine, dry finish. This bottle is fully mature, maybe a tad to soon for a 96 Cannubi from Pira? Anyway, a fine bottle of mature Nebbiolo.
91p   (tasted 2017/12)

1999 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello
The 1989 two months ago and now the 99 - life is good! The ten year younger Mascarello offers up a deep, handsome, finely tuned nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, forest floor, rose petals a hint of worn leather. Very refined. Lovely.
The taste is still tight and on the young side of things with notes of lingonberries, cranberries, dried roses, earth and paint. The finish goes on for minutes. Some rugged tannins still. Needs at least 6 years. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2017/12)

2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis, Sandrone
A tight, compact nose with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, pipe tobacco and a hint of dried up vanilla pods. Very deep. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. A hint of maturity.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosehips, sugared coffee and forest floor. Very long and distinct with tannins still packing a punch at the finish. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2017/12)

2013 Barolo Cannubi, Burlotto
Fabios 13 Cannubi made the most memorable list 2017 because of this bottle and the one we tasted at the estate with Fabio. This is an ethereal, young Barolo that is hauntingly beautiful and seemingly light but there is lots of structure and backbone under the flirtatious fruit. A magical wine.
97p   (tasted 2017/12)

The year shifts into 2018 with some 739 Jacquesson


  1. Funny you mentioned corked Dom Perignon....
    Many years ago, out for dinner, I ordered a bottle of Dom my first ever at restaurant, guess what ? It was corked !
    Staff replaced right away.

  2. I will be in Barolo sometimes April....where should I go to drink a bottle of BURLOTTO CANNUBI 2013..?
    Also did ever dine at La Ciau Tornavento..?

    1. Repubblica di Perno had the 13 Acclivi but I don´t remember if they had the Cannubi. Can´t remember seeing it on the lists of the restaurants we visited last time.
      La Ciau Tornavento - yes, twice, but the last time was some 6-7 years ago, then it was really good, don´t know how it is today.