Tuesday, 25 July 2023

Notes From A Visit To Ivögården Vineyard



This is a miniscule vineyard, only 0,25 ha, making 600 liter wine each year, that is transformed into sparkling, white, rosé, red wines and distillate in the form of a gin and a Swedish variant of grappa.

Bo Jeppsson, the winemaker and the one who set up the vineyard in 2013, showed me the vineyard where Solaris, Rondo and Regent grows. These are PIWI grapes which are more resistent to fungus and other dieseases, and they are able to fully mature in the Swedish climate. 
After a tour through the vineyard I was able to taste through the line up.
A very nice place, a trip here is recommended. 


2021 Rondo Regent Brut
A delicate, low keyed nose with notes of raspberry candy, earth and hints of licorice. Good.
The taste is fresh and fine with a good acidity and notes of dried raspberries, dark bread and herbs. 
86p   (tasted 2023/07)



2021 Solaris Brut
A very nice nose with notes of dried honey, chrushed rocks and lemon peel.
The taste is cool and fresh with notes of lemon peel, earth and minerals. A fine acidity.
87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Solaris
A restrained, tight nose with notes of lemon candy, gravel and basil. A tad one dimensional.
The taste is pure, dry and easy going with good lemon coated fruit and gravelly notes.
84p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Solaris 
This has been lying on a 25 liter Hungarian oak barrel and is very much marked by oak, both on the nose and palate. Under the layer of oak there are some interesting notes of detergent, glue and the intriguing scents from a 50-70 year old Sauternes. 
The taste is big and oak laden but yet again there are interesting notes under the oak. Dry caramel, old apricots and hay. They serve it with the traditional svartsoppa (a soup serverd at the autum goose dinner, made from the blood from the geese). A wine you either love or hate. I´m in the former category.
90p   (tasted 2023/07)


2022 Rosé Rondo Regent
A very dark coloured rosé since these grapes have plenty of colour in their skins. The nose is open and spicy with notes of raspberry juice, licorice, fresh herbs and gravel. Very, very good.
The taste is finely tuned with a nice structure and dryness with notes of red currants, dried raspberries and gravel.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Rondo Regent
The nose resembles Cabernet Franc with its herbal and peppery aroma, there is also some notes of warm earth, red currants and tobacco.
The taste is seedy and tight with notes of red currants, scorched earth and assorted herbs. The tannins are on the stern side, this needs some time. 4+ years.
87p   (tasted 2023/07)


Monday, 24 July 2023

NV Rosé, De Sousa


NV Rosé, De Sousa
A perky, refined nose with notes of rhubarb, red apples, chalk and hints of hazelnut-chocolate. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and fresh with notes of Christmas spices, chocolate covered strawberries and gravel. A fine acidity. Tails of a tad quick in the finish. 
90p   (tasted 2023/07)

Sunday, 23 July 2023

1989 Château Labérgorce Zédé


1989 Château Labérgorce Zédé
A perfectly mature Bordeaux is hard to beat (even if a perfectly mature Barolo does that). This 34 year old Margaux offers up a deep, smooth nose with gorgeous notes of chewing tobacco, dried up black currant jam, sugared coffee and a forest full of autumn leaves and moist undergrowth.
The taste is medium bodied and velvety with notes of black currant leaves, tomato paste, dried meat, forest floor and cigarr. A very fine, lingering finish. Drinking perfect now.
93p   (tasted 2023/07)

Friday, 21 July 2023

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Castello di Perno


As with Fortemasso, this is a very new estate, the first vintage was 2014. They have 13,5 ha and produces ca 50.000 bottles per year. Matteo took time away in the late afternoon and showed me the new building and poured the wines below. 
We also tasted 2022, 2021 and 2020 from tank and cask. I didn´t take any notes on those but I was very pleased with what I tasted.

2021 Langhe Nascetta
From Serravalle at 720 meters, this Nascetta sports a fine, spicy nose with notes of sweet/sour lemons, chrushed rocks and grass. Very salivating.
The taste is tight and steely with a fine acidity and notes of chalk, lemon peel and spices. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Dolcetto d´Alba
A open, fine nose with notes of ripe blueberries with some raspberries added, violets and iron. Pure and fresh.
The taste is balanced and fine with some perky tannins and a fine blueberry and damson fruit. 3+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)


2020 Barbera d´Asti
From 60 year old vines, see the picture below, displays a very deep, salty Barbera nose with notes of ripe rasoberries, red currants and bonfire smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is high and sappy with notes of sweet/sour raspberries, licorice, iron and fresh herbs. Very long with a fine intensity.
90p   (tasted 2023/07)



2018 Nizza
From the same area as the wine above but from 80 year old vines, this is a impressive Barbera. Very deep and concentrated on the nose with notes of wild raspberries, Finnish licorice, incense and tar. 
The taste is taut and structured with a impressive depth and focus. Immense fruit. Very, very long. Really fine. 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2023/07)

2020 Langhe Nebbiolo
The grapes to this LN comes from Gramolere. The nose is pure and fine with a very nice cherryfruit alongside some asphalt and mushroom notes.
The taste is finely tuned with notes of hard cherry candy, gravel and dry licorice. Juicy and silky tannins. Very, very good. 4+ years.
90p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo
A cool, willful nose with interesting notes of wild strawberries, rubber and fine balsamic notes. Lots of earth. Very fine.
The taste is tight and refined with notes of dried strawberries, bakelite, minerals and asphalt. Very long and intense. Again, very fine. 7+ years. From Castelletto.
92p   (tasted 2023/07)



2017 Barolo Castelletto
A restrained, focused nose with notes of dark cherries, asphalt, hints of tobacco and Langhe earth. Very deep and promising. Lovely.
The taste is pure and concentrated with boatloads of cherry fruit, polished tannins and a long, long finish. This needs time, 9+ years.
94p   (tasted 2023/07)


Wednesday, 19 July 2023

2013 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole, Marengo


2013 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole, Marengo
A deep, floral nose with notes of forest floor, cherry licorice, ink and violets (!). Dark cherries. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Complex.
The taste is tight and sandy with notes of black cherries, Langhe earth, iron and violet pastilles. Silky tannins. Very fine. 5+ years. Last tasted at the cantina in  May 2017.
94p   (tasted 2023/07)

Tuesday, 18 July 2023

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Cascina Sòt

Maurizio showing me the vineyards

Cascina Sòt is a family run cantina started in 1975 when Maurizios parents was able to by the land they had previously worked as farmer-tenants for decades. 
Maurizo´s first vintage was in 2008. The estate is 19 ha big and produces ca 65.000 bottles per year. 


2021 Chardonnay
A young, spicy nose with notes of toasted bread, lemon cream and hints of basil. Very, very good.
The taste is balanced and fine with a creamy character and a fine acidity. Long. 3+ years.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Nascetta
A earthy, tight nose with notes of white currants, grass and herbs. Very good.
The taste is cool and fresh with notes of dried peach, incense and grass. A tad thin on the finish.
87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Vino Rosato
50% Nebbiolo and 50% Barbera. A open, fresh nose with notes of blood oranges, red apples and Finnish licorice. Very, very good.
The taste is elegant and racy with a very fine acidity and silky fruit. A very gulpable wine.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)


2020 Barbera d´Alba
A big, open nose with notes of ripe raspberries, warm tiles and scorched earth. 
The taste is broad and spicy with notes of raspberry licorice, asphalt and fried herbs. Very good in a direct sort of way.
87p   (tasted 2023/07)


2021 Barbera d´Alba Superiore
The Superiore has turned up the fruit to 11. A big concentrated nose with notes of (over)ripe raspberries, licorice, sugared coffee and scorched earth. 
The taste is big and bold with a very upfront, juicy raspberry fruit alongside  notes of warm tiles and bonfire smoke. A very good acidity. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo
A young, pure nose with notes of red cherries, Lange earth and licorce. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with a long finish and a very nice cherry fruit. 4+ years.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Del Comune di Monforte d´Alba
A fine, cool nose with notes of hard cherry candy, ripe flowers and violets. Deep and fine.
The taste is open and juicy with notes of red cherries, licorice, a hint of tobacco and dried flowers. 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2023/07)


2019 Barolo Bricco San Pietro
A deep, refined nose with tar & roses, a low keyed intensity and a very classic expression. Really fine.
The taste is finely structured with taut tannins, a very long finish and lots of wild strawberries, iodine and licorice. Lovely. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2023/07)


2017 Barolo Riserva Bricco San Pietro
Only 600 bottles made. A very deep, old school nose with notes of dried cherries, Langhe earth, mushrooms and asphalt. Very fine.
The taste is tight and tannin laden with restrained cherry fruit and a long, concentrated finish. One for the ages. 12+ years.
93p   (tasted 2023/07)

Monday, 17 July 2023

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Elio Grasso


The Elio Grasso estate conists of 18 ha and produces ca 90.000 bottles per year. Martina showed med the impressive cellar and poured these fine wines.


2022 Dolcetto d´Alba Dei Grasso
A fine depth with notes of ripe blueberries, licorice, iron and fresh herbs. Very, very good.
The taste is structured and fine with silky tannins and notes of damsons, blueberries and a hint of dark chocolate. 6+ years.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)



2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
In 2022 there won´t be a Runcot bottling so that is included in this wine. A open, fresh nose with notes of wild strawberries, licorice and Langhe earth.
The taste is elegant and fine with notes of red cherries, violets and licorice. Very, very good. 4+ years.
91p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera
From 40 year old vines this very fine wine oozes up from the glass with notes of ripe cherries, salmiak, licorice and forest floor. Very fine.
The taste is handsome and refined with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, asphalt and fir wood. Lovely. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2023/07)


2019 Barolo Ginestra Case Maté
The Case Maté is what dreams are made of, at least mine. The nose is very deep and intense with gorgeous notes of wild strawberries, sun warm rocks, mushrooms and hints of fennel. Stunning.
The taste is tight and perfectly balanced with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, slate and minerals. Very, very long. Aristocratic. 10+ years. 
96p   (tasted 2023/07)

2015 Barolo Riserva Runcot
Runcot comes from a 1,5 ha vineyard in Ginestra and is brought up in 100% new barriques. The nose of the 2015 is deep and restrained with notes of ripe cherries, pipe tobacco, forest floor and hint of oak. Very fine.
The taste is tight and structured with broad tannins, lots of sweet black fruit and a minute long finish. There is some oaky notes in the long finish that will need 8+ years to integrate. 
94p   (tasted 2023/07)



Saturday, 15 July 2023

Six Bottles Of Bubbly


Last tasting of the season in our tasting group and according to tradition we finish with Champagne. H arranged a interesting tasting with bottles from small producers from the great 2008 vintage. 
Tasted double blind.

2008 Prestige, Serge Pierlot
A elegant, fine nose with notes of dry caramel, white flowers and lemon cream. A fine salty note.
The taste is cool and creamy with notes of lemon zest, mieral and dry fudge. A fine acidity. Still young.
91p   (tasted 2023/06)


2008 Brut, Jean-Yves de Carlini
A tight, steely nose with notes of of yellow plums, smoke and chrushed rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is young and tight with notes of iron, elder berries and dried plums. A medium long finish. Needs time, 4+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Paradis, A. Boatas
This Blanc de Blancs is a beauty. The nose is pure and elegant with notes of lemon cream, birch leafs, butter fudge and sweet minerals.
The taste is cool and focused with notes of white flowers, grilled lemons and lots of chalk. A very fine acidity. 4+ years.
93p   (tasted 2023/06)



2008 Cuvée Prestige, Gaudrillet
70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. A deep, smoky nose with notes of red apples, elder berries and dark minerals. It changes in the glass, from time to time it appears a tad shallow.
The taste is young and nicely balanced with a fine acidity and nice fruit. A bit short on the finish. 
86p   (tasted 2023/06)

2008 Blanc de Blanc, Benoit Munier
This zero dosage Champagne is a stunner. A deep, complex nose with notes of dry caramel, sun warm grass, cold coffee and tiles. Very interesting. Lots of ripe red currants.
The taste shows a hint of maturity alongside a fine acidity and boatloads of ripe yellow fruit. Very, very long. Lovely. Blanc de Blancs.
94p   (tasted 2023/06)



2008 Clos des Bergeronneau VV, Florent Bergeronneau
All Pinot Meunier. The nose is broad and deep with notes of autumn apples, almond paste, kumin and sun warm rocks. Some maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is high and a bit rough around the edges with notes of ripe red fruits, gravel, almonds and autumn leafs. Long and fine. 
90p   (tasted 2023/06)

Friday, 14 July 2023

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Fortemasso

The view from Fortemasso with a full exposure of Vignarionda 

This is a fairly new estate, their first vintage was 2013. 9 ha in total, 4 of which is in the MGA Castelleto, 1 ha in Vigna Storica Pressenda and 3 ha in San Sebastiano di Monforte d´Alba. They produce ca 50.000 bottles per year. 
I tasted their Barolo at Grandi Langhe and was very impressed so a visit felt necessary. 
Annalisa and Francesca showed me the great building and poured the wines below.


2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
A cool, elegant nose with notes of red cherries, asphalt and fresh flowers. Very, very good.
The taste is light and delicate with cherry pips, chrushed rocks and a fine perfumed note. 3+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)


2022 Dolcetto d´Alba
Only the second vintage of Dolcetto. A pure, fine nose with notes of blueberry bushes, bakelite and violets.
The taste is nicely structured around cool, silky tannins a fine blueberry and damson fruit. 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Barbera d´Alba Superior
A more large scaled, spicy nose with notes of ripe raspberries, licorice, moist earth and herbs.
The taste is tight but finely balanced with notes of raspberry licorice, asphalt and bonfire smoke. Long and warm. 3+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2018 Barolo Castelletto
A lovely, delicate nose with notes of cinnamon, red cherries, incense and roses. Very fine.
The taste is balanced and handsome with very fine cherry fruit, silky tannins a long, structured finish. 7+ years.
93p   (tasted 2023/07)


2013 Barolo Castelletto
Francesca were ever so kind to open a bottle of their first vintage, after a discussion of the vintages of 21 century, where I stated that for me, the 2013 vintage is the best since 2001. 
The nose shows a hint of maturity with fine balsamic notes alongside notes of dried cherries, forest floor and licorice. 
The taste is fine and seedy with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, dried flowers and some mushrooms. The tannins are a tad more rugged than the 2018. 4+ years.
92p   (tasted 2023/07)

2016 Barolo Riserva Castelletto
Only ca 2000 bottles made of this beauty. The nose is a dream with boatloads of tar & roses besides notes of hard cherry candy, incense and licorice. A very pure old scool Barolo nose. Gorgeous.
The taste is pure, structured and balanced with a intensity and refinement that is hard to describe. A candidate for perfection in 8+ years time. Kudos!
97p   (tasted 2023/07)



Wednesday, 12 July 2023

2018 Dolcetto d´Alba, Giovanni Corino


2018 Dolcetto d´Alba, Giovanni Corino
A very good, rounded nose with notes of iron, dried blackberries, fir wood and herbs. A hint of maturity.
The taste is more direct and ascetic with some dry tannins and notes of blueberry bushes, iron and dried herbs. More rewarding on the nose.
86p   (tasted 2023/07)

Sunday, 9 July 2023

2005 Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux, Paul Jacqueson


2005 Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux, Paul Jacqueson
A maturing, earthy nose with notes of dried raspberries, old root vegetables, herbs, fresh stables and red beets. Not that deep but interesting and with a low keyed intensity.
The taste is medium bodied and round with notes of ripe lingonberries, earth, dried raspberries, rhubarb and a ever so slight hint of mint. Drinking very fine today.
89p   (tasted 2023/07)

Saturday, 8 July 2023

A Couple Of Days In Piedmont - Visit To Ferdinando Principiano


My first visit to this estate that I have heard much about. Nicolò took great care of me and poured some fantastic wines.


2018 Alta Langa Leonardo
First out a 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay blend from Alta Langa (there were many stories during my visits about the amount of estates byuing land in Alta Langa). The nose is steely and fresh with notes of lemon zest, white flowers and minerals. Very, very good.
The taste is silky and pure with a cleansing acidity and notes of red apple skin, lemons and sand. 
90p   (tasted 2023/07)


2021 Langhe Bianco
Made from Timorasso from 1,5 ha in Serravalle not far from La Coccinella. A high, spicy nose with notes of tangerines, salt rocks and dried up passionfruit.
The taste is cool and rather elegant with a good acidity (which usually lacks in Timorasso from my experience) but a tad short in the finish.
87p   (tasted 2023/07)

2022 Dolcetto d´Alba
A fine, salivating Dolcetto nose with notes of blueberry bushes, licorice, violets and iron. Very, very good.
The taste is young and juicy with perky tannins and lots of fresh blueberries and damsons. 6+ years.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)


(2022) Dosset
A Dolcetto made like it was in the old days. There is a fun sentence in the book - Barolo / Tar and Roses by M. Garner and P. Merritt - "the story goes that if you analysed an Albes´s blood sample, it would contain at least 50 per cent Dolcetto". Only 11% alcohol. Dosset is Dolcetto in Piedmont language. 
The nose is upfront, light and lively with notes of ripening blueberries, earth and some herbs.
The taste is light and flirty with a tiny tannin bite and juicy blueberries. Easy going, it would be easy to gulp down a bottle single handedly.
86p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Barbera d´Alba
A open, fine Barbera nose with notes of raspberry licorice, Langhe earth, sun warm rocks and a hint of mature bananas! Very, very good.
The taste is open and fresh with a very fine acidity and notes of ripe raspberries, chrushed rocks and warm herbs.
88p   (tasted 2023/07)

2021 Langhe Nebbiolo
Another example of a very fine 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo (almost all producers raved about the quality of 2021 Baroli, Grandi Langhe in 2025 will be a must). The nose is delicate and refined with a fine mix of red and blue fruits, a hint of rubber, licorice and roses.
The taste is cool and silky with a fine tension and notes of wild strawberries, licorice and roses. Very, very good. 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2023/07)


2019 Barolo Del Commune di Serralunga
A fine, elegant nose with notes of hard cherry candy, smoke, forest floor and violets. A little low keyed in a classic way.
The taste is finely tuned and refined with polished tannins and notes of ripe cherries, licorice, incense and a hint of tobacco. Very fine. 6+ years
92p   (tasted 2023/07)


2019 Barolo Ravera di Monforte
From a plot planted in 1934 with the Michet grape. Only 3000 bt made. The nose is deep and dark with notes of dark bread, (over)ripe strawberries, moist earth and all over a high, refined perfumed scent. 
The taste is tight, structured and willful with notes of black cherries, warm sand, mushrooms and dark licorice. Very fine tannins. Very long and fine. 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2023/07)

2019 Barolo Boscareto
Whole bunch fermented and the grapes are chrushed by foot. The nose is high, very floral and racy with notes of wild strawberries, sand, licorice and leather. Very, very deep. Just stunning.
The taste is young, refined and brilliant with everything albeit maturity in place. Awesome fruit and balance. In 10+ years...
96p   (tasted 2023/07)