Thursday, 12 January 2023

The Ten Most Memorable Wines Of 2022


Time to do the annual list over the wines that has left the biggest impressions in my memory. 823 wines tasted during the year of which 204 was a Barolo.

Here are the most memorable bottles of 2022 in vintage order.
A toast for a great 2023!

NV Palo Cortado Bota Unico 1/1 S. Roberto, Barbadillo
I don´t know how many times I have said it - I drink too little Sherry! This beauty made me say it again, I have to do something about it, maybe during 2023? Barolista: Some Sultry Spaniards
99p   (tasted 2022/12)


1988 Château d´Yquem
Yquem is Yquem. In a interesting all Sauternes tasting dinner - Barolista: A Sauternes Tasting Dinner - this really delivered the goods.
98p   (tasted 2022/10)


1990 Barolo Cannubi, Paolo Scavino
Mature Barolo is hard to beat. This stunner from Scavino was in a perfect place when tasted in January - Barolista: Pilled Up Notes - Great Wines Tasted in January - Pira, Scavino, Galatrona, Grand-Puy-Lacoste & More.
97p   (tasted 2022/01)


1996 SLV, Stag´s Leap
As I wrote in my tasting note - this is what dreams are made of. Perfectly mature in a perfect time to drink - Barolista: Lunch Tasting With Wines From Stag´s Leap.
99p   (tasted 2022/06)


2004 & 2006 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe, Cavallotto
Two in one! I was lucky to taste both the 2004 and 2006 Vigna San Guíuseppe during the year, both stunning Baroli with a great future ahead of them.
97/97p   (tasted 2022/04/12)



2010 Gevrey-Chambertin VV 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes, Pierre Naigeon
Only 265 bottles made of this beauty, I wish I could get hold of the remaining 264... - Barolista: 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes, Pierre Naigeon.
96p   (tasted 2022/07)


2016 Dogliani Superiore San Bernardo, Anna Maria Abbona
Tasted at the estate when I visited in September. The best Dolcetto I have ever tasted, really great stuff - 
95p   (tasted 2022/09)


2016 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, Massolino
The second perfect wine this year (see the first below) and to add to the joy, I had a wonderful visit at the Massolino estate with the perfect host, Franco Massolino - Barolista: A Couple Of Days in Piedmont - Visit To Massolino.
100p   (tasted 2022/09)


2018 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline, Guigal
I have been fortunate enough to taste several vintages of the La-La´s from Guigal upon release, but the 2018 blew me away with its elegance, refinement and intensity. Perfect now and probably perfect forever - Barolista: 2018 La Mouline, La Turque & La Landonne.
100p   (tasted 2022/05)


2019 Premium Chardonnay, Bass Philip
An utter delight to taste, the first time for me tasting anything from this estate. Looking forward to open a bottle of this stunning juice - Barolista: Two Fine Producers From Down Under - Bass Phillip & Punt Road.
97p   (tasted 2022/02)





Wednesday, 11 January 2023

1991 Château de la Rivière


1991 Château de la Rivière
Another fine bottle from this underrated estate (see below for other vintages). The nose is classic Bordeaux with notes of lead pencil shavings, worn leather, dried black currants and cold coffee. A fine maturity.
The taste is medium bodied, dry and mature with nice black currant fruit, tobacco and gravel. A tad hollow in the middle but all in all a nice luncheon claret as Michael Broadbent used to say.
86p   (tasted 2023/01)


Tuesday, 10 January 2023

2006 Barolo - Eleven Bottles Tasted


S invited to a tasting and we had no clue that it was a follow up tasting to the tasting he aranged in April of this year when the theme was 2004 Barolo - Barolista: 2004 Barolo - 5 Producers & 18 Bottles
This time is was 2006 Baroli that was poured. One corked bottle but otherwise some really fine bottles.

I found these 2006 still on the young side of things, needing at least 5+ years to reach the state of maturity I love in a Barolo.
All wines tasted double blind.

M. Marengo
2006 Barolo
Unfortunately corked.
No rating   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Bricco Viole
A deep, forward nose with notes of forest floor, Christmas spices, red tea and cooked red cherries. Very fine. Some maturity.
The taste is broad and balanced with lovely sweet fruit, lots of silky tannins and a long, long finish with a fine warmth. 4+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)


2006 Barolo Brunate
A tad subdued, deep nose with notes of rosehips, dried raspberries, fir wood, salmiak and earth. Pure and fine.
The taste is restrained and focused with notes of iron, cherry pips, earth and fir wood. Long. Needs time, 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Vecchia Vigne delle Brunate
A deep, gorgeous nose with notes of mushrooms, dark flowers, violets, corinthians and fir wood. Really fine.
The taste is brilliant with intensity, focus and restrained power. Lots of structure for aging. Dried rose petals, violets, hard cherry candy, moist earth. 6+ years. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2022/12)


Conterna Fantino
2006 Barolo Vigna del Gris
A tight, fine nose with notes of black flowers, iron, black cherries and a hint of mint. Very deep and fine.
The taste is backward and structured with lots of black fruit locked up for now. Very long with a fine bitterness in the finish. 7+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Mosconi
Always my favourite in the Conterno Fantino line up. This time too. The nose is handsome and deep with fine notes of licorice, fine tobacco, ripe cherries and bakelite. Intense.
The taste is tight and concentrated with juicy tannins, boatloads of black cherry fruit and a long, iron clad finish. Really fine. 8+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/12)


2006 Barolo Sorì Ginestra
A deep, refined nose with notes of sandelwood, ripe cherries, asphalt and a lovely perfumed note. Cool and collected.
The taste is balanced and rich with gorgeous notes of black cherries, iron, asphalt, licorice and rosehips. The finish goes on and on. This needs plenty of time, 10+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)


Cavallotto
2006 Barolo Bricco Boschis
A delicate, laid back nose with notes of smoke, forest floor, black cherries and lots of wild flowers. Very fine.
The taste is tight and elegant with gorgeous cherry fruit, silky tannins and a long, luscious finish. 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Barolo Vignolo
A very deep, pure nose with notes of forest floor, ripe raspberries, licorice and assorted spices. Lovely.
The taste is tight and nicely concentrated with notes of sandelwood, black cherries, rosehips and dried flowers. Very balanced. 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2022/12)


2006 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe
A brilliant nose with depth, intensity and refinement. There are notes of ripe cherries, red apples, paint, chocolate biscuits, rosehips, licorice and charcoal. Very complex.
The taste is an almost perfect combination of juicy fruit, a taut structure with polished tannins and a lenght that keeps going on and on. A candidate for perfection in 6-8 years.
97p   (tasted 2022/12)

One extra bottle
2006 Barolo Cannubi Boschis, Sandrone
With the recent passing of Luciano Sandrone, it seems in handsight that this was a appropriate tribute to the great Barolista that he was. 1990 and 2001 Cannubi Boschis have for me been perfect wines on several occasions.
The 2006 opens up with a deep, complex nose with notes of ripe black cherries, cold coffee, nougat, damp earth and licorice. Very fine.
The taste is rich and focused with gorgeous black fruit, perfectly polished tannins and long, long finish. Great wine. 5+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/12)


Saturday, 7 January 2023

1985 Santenay-Maladière, Domaine Prieur-Brunet


1985 Santenay-Maladière, Domaine Prieur-Brunet
A very deep, autumn forest full nose with additional notes of root vegetables, fried herbs, smoke and violets. Fully mature, sweet and very, very good.
The taste is round, sweet and mature with notes of dried strawberries, herbs, forest floor and dry licorice. Holding up very well in the glass throughout the evening.
89p   (tasted 2023/01)

Thursday, 5 January 2023

2010 Barolo, Elio Altare


2010 Barolo, Elio Altare
A delicate, attractive nose with notes of forest floor, semi dried cherries, violets and polished furniture. Some maturity. Very, very good.
The taste is tighter than the nose leads you to believe with some still forward tannins, gorgeous cherry fruit and a long, dry, distinct finish. Very fine. 4+ years. 
93p   (tasted 2023/01)

Wednesday, 4 January 2023

1983 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Daniel Tupinier


1983 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Daniel Tupinier
This arrived a week ago with some other bottles. Upon unpacking I saw that this bottle had leaked a little bit. I opened it the same day.
The nose is mature and large scaled with notes of dried orange peel, chive, dried ginger and boatloads of chalk. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight and mineral laden with notes of dried lemons, dry grass and ginger. Reminds me of a an old Fino. Nicely balanced. I don´t know how much the leakage have affected the wine, but this is a nice drink.
88p   (tasted 2022/12)

Monday, 2 January 2023

1985 Château d´Angludet


1985 Château d´Angludet
A fine, mature nose with all the scents that makes mature Bordeaux so good - autumn leaves, dried red and black currants, leather, fresh stables and old furniture. 
The taste is cool and mature with silky tannins and fine red fruit. Medium bodied. Leather, cold coffee and an autum forest after rain. Very, very good. 
I have had many fine bottles from this underrated estate. According to David Peppercorn "the property...missed classification only through its unhappy division" (in 1791). Peppercorn describes, among others, the 1985 as "suberb, with marvellously long flavours and great ´race´, classic Margaux".
88p   (tasted 2022/12)

Monday, 26 December 2022

2000 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso


2000 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso
A large scaled, warm, a bit all-over-the-place kind of nose with notes of cooked cherries, fir wood, dusty earth and old tobacco. Not really to my liking, a bit ragged.
The taste is seedy and broad with notes of dried up cherry jam, hot earth, dry licorice and fried mushrooms. Long. Some warmth. Better on the palate than on the nose. Drink up.
86p   (tasted 2022/12)

Friday, 23 December 2022

Two Bottles Of Bubbly

2013 Extra Noir, Louis Brochet
From an for me unknown producer. The Pinot Noir, only 993 bottles made, offers up a fresh, stony nose with notes of red apples, chocolate biscuits, fir wood and ripe flowers. Spicy and fine.
The taste is broad yet elegant with a fine acidity , lots of red apples and a long, dry finish. Very, very good. 3+ years.
90p   (tasted 2022/12)


2014 Extra Blanc, Louis Brochet
The Blanc de Blancs is for me the better wine, with a cool, spicy nose with notes of chalk, lemon peel, wet cement and honeysuckle. Very fine.
The taste is fresh like a mountain river with fine notes of lemon cream, white flowers, chalk and chrushed rocks. Long and fine. 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2022/12)



Thursday, 22 December 2022

Six Bottles Of Syrah


2001 Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Jamet
A mature, round nose with notes of violets, dried black berries, forest floor and sugared coffee. A fine depth.
The taste is mature and peppery with notes of autumn leaves, dried blueberries, violets and leather. I would say fully mature but will keep for another 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/12)



1999 Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée, Chapoutier
Another Chapoutier that doesn´t impress me (its a long list by now...). The nose is mature and a tad foursquare with notes of vanilla cooked black currants and blackberries. Also some forest floor aromas.
The taste is soft and mature with dried black fruit, some iron and violet notes but lacks concentration and focus.
86p   (tasted 2022/12)

2006 Syrah, Denis Mercier
Spicy and refined, this shows of more red than black fruits on the nose alongside notes of ink, chrushed rocks and flowers. Very fine.
The taste is elegant and nicely structured with red and black fruits, silky tannins and a peppery finish. A fine warmth. 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/12)



2009 Warner Vineyard Shiraz, Giaconda
Hands down the winner when we voted for the best wine (all tasted double blind). The nose is deep, spicy and energetic with notes of tobacco, iron, dark flowers and buckets of ripe blackberries. Very, very fine.
The taste is large scaled but very refined with brilliant fruit, taut tannins and a lovely balance. Spices, peppers, blood and forest floor. Great wine. 6+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/12)

2005 Syrah, Boekenhoutskloof
A deep, inky nose with notes of ripe blackberries, bakelite and scorched earth. Very, very good in a upfront way.
The taste is young and forward with notes of ripe blackberries, chrushed rocks, iron and sweet violets. Long and intense. 8+ years.
91p   (tasted 2022/12)


2012 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Syrah, Ramey
A deep, juicy nose with notes of violets, blackberries, bacon and hot earth. Forward and very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with luscious black fruit, silky tannins and a long, long finish. Very young and very fine, 8+ years.
94p   (tasted 2022/12)

Saturday, 17 December 2022

Birthday Bottles From The Greatest Vintage Ever...


...which of course is 1964. These were some bottles that I opened to accompany a recent family dinner. 
Now only 62 bottles of 1964 in the cellar (panic!)

2007 La Grande Cuvée, Jeeper
No notes but from memory I would say that this is even more tasty than the 2005 - Barolista: Tasting Dinner With Vintages Ending With A "5" or the 2008 - Barolista: A BYOB Barbeque Evening
93p   (tasted 2022/11)

The bottle to the right not rated...

1964 Saint-Aubin, Moillard-Grivot
A rich. mature nose with notes of orange peel, wet earth, dried apricots without the sweetness, hint of coconut and rubber. Interesting and still very much alive.
The taste is dry and salty with notes of dried orange peel, herbs. nuts and dry minerals. Reminds me of an old Fino. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2022/11)

1964 Château Yon-La-Tour-Figeac
Opens a bit grumpy but with air it evolves into a fine, mature St Emilion, with notes of plums, old leather, fresh stables and autumn leaves. A fine dried up warmth.
The taste is a tad more linear than the nose but it has a fine maturity, dried fruit and medium long, dry finish. Very good with the Coeur de filet Provencale.
87p   (tasted 2022/11)


1964 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, ? Bourlioux
Almost black in colour. A big, burly nose - something added here? - with notes of fir wood, cooked blackberries, asphalt and bonfire.
The taste is big and steady with lots of black fruit and notes of bonfire smoke, scorched earth and asphalt. Feel a bit "made" but still delievers a fair amount of pleasure.
87p   (tasted 2022/11)

1964 Rioja Gran Reserva, Gomez Cruzado
Not completely DOA but not far from it.
60p   (tasted 2022/11)

1964 Mercurey, Frères Levert
From a family with a long history, see the back label. The nose is high and handsome with notes of root vegetables, dried raspberries, forest floor and a hint of balsamic vinegar. Very, very good.
The taste is round and mature with notes of dried raspberries, autumn leaves, herbs and earth. A fine acidity. Holding up great in the glass.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)



1964 Barolo, Luigi Alessandria
On the label it says "Poderi in La Morra e Serralunga d´Alba", so this probably is a blend from these two areas. The nose is deep and fine with notes of dried cherries, red tea, dried flowers and a whole mushroom forest. Very fine.
The taste is dense and fine with notes of dried cherries, asphalt, dried flowers and rosehip. A long, dry finish. No hurry to drink any remaining bottles.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)

Friday, 16 December 2022

Some Sultry Spaniards

The Whites
2020 Cepas Viejas, Guimaro
A smoky, oily nose with notes of burnt grass, flint, Christmas spices and grilles lemon. Very, very good.
The taste is large scaled and spicy with lots of ripe lemons and chrushed rocks. A tad heavy in the finish. 
88p   (tasted 2022/11)


2019 Roda I Blanco, Bodegas Roda
First vintage of the Blanco from Roda and its a stunner. The nose is deep and intense with notes of oranges, chalk, smoke and a salty touch. Lovely fruit.
The taste is young and tight with spicy lemon fruit, a cleansing acidity and a fine length. Great stucture for aging. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 Sketch, Raúl Pérez
A young, stony nose with notes of grey pears, lemon licorice, wet cement and some grassy notes. A fine complexity.
The taste is fresh and racy with notes of dried apricots, grapefruit juice, minerals and dried grass. Very fine.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)


2017 Commando G El Tamboril, Sierra de Gredos
A cool, elegant nose with notes of grape, birch leaves, smoke and lots of minerals. A bit laid back.
The taste is pure and seedy with notes of grass, minerals, gravel and grape. A low key intensity. Very, very good. Only 395 bottles made...
88p   (tasted 2022/11)

Intermezzo
NV No 1 La Bota de Amontillado "Navazos"
A unicorn of a bottle, the first in the Equipo Navazos series. The nose is bottomless deep with hauntingly beautiful notes of dry caramel, fried nuts, detergent, dried orange peel, sun warm rocks and salt water. Very complex and fine.
The taste is pure, racy and concentrated with an extraordinary structure, balance and intensity. The finish is counted in minutes. The acidity is of the charts. A truly great wine.
98p   (tasted 2022/11)



The Reds
2019 Bernabelena Garnacha de Viña Bonita, San Martín de Valdeiglesias
A cool, laid back nose with notes of rowan berries, dry licorice, earth and some spices. Light in style but very flirtatious.
The taste is high and focused with notes of dried raspberries, lingonberries, spices and earth, Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2022/11)


2019 Las Iruelas El Tiemblo, Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi
This bottle didn´t seem ok, so judgement referred.
No rating   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 Finca Pombiras, Guimaro
A warm, floral nose with notes of black cherries, asphalt, spices and violets. Very, very good.
The taste is concentrated and fine with notes of cherries, tapenade, hot earth and dark flowers. Long and fine.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)


2018 El Pecado, Raul Perez
A deep, finely structured nose with notes of leather, ripe cherries, rosemary and mocha. Very fine.
The taste is taut and fine with notes of salmiak, fries herbs, earth and violets. Long, cool and very fine.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 Tabuerniga, Telmo Rodríguez
A deep, somewhat meaty nose with notes of plums, violets and asphalt. Rich and very fine.
The taste is tight and focused with lots of black fruit, broad tannins and a long, warm finish. A fine touch of rosemary in the end. 6+ years.
92p   (tasted 2022/11)


2019 Peña Cabalcera, Bodega Marañones
A very deep, lovely nose with notes of forest floor, rubber, violets and a mix of black fruits. Very fine.
The taste is compact yet light on its feet with stunning fruit and notes of asphalt, forest floor and violets en masse. 4+ years. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)

2001 Vall Llach
A very deep, plum filled nose with additional notes of dark flowers, wet asphalt, meat and some balsamic notes. Very fine.
The taste is multi layered and pure with notes of tapenade, cigarr smoke, asphalt and ripe plums. Very long and intense. Still on the young side of things. 
94p   (tasted 2022/11)



2018 La Condenada, Artuke
A deep, perfumed nose with gorgeous notes of forest floor, balsamico cooked strawberries, fresh stables and smoke. Just lovely.
The taste is all about backbone, luscious fruit, balance and a finish that doesn´t quit. This is great stuff. 5+ years.
96p   (tasted 2022/11)

2019 La Beatas, Telmo Rodríguez
The -19 La Beatas is not at the same level as the -18 - Barolista: Great Wines From Telmo Rodríguez, but its still a tasty wine. The nose is cool and vegetal, in a Cab Franc kind of way, with additional notes of red and black currants, fir smoke and hint of tobacco.
The taste is young and tight with a stern structure and notes of red and black currants, cigarette smoke and warm grass. Needs a couple of years in the cellar to flesh out.
91p   (tasted 2022/11)


A Stunning Sherry Flight
NV Amontillado Bota Unica 1/2, S. Roberto, Barbadillo
M pouring three Sherries? We didn´t see that coming... 
The nose is a dream with a breathtaking intensity and bottomless notes of nuts, orange peel, smoke, rubber, iodine and chrushed rocks. Just stunning.
The taste is counted in minutes with gorgeous notes of dried ginger, nuts, orange peel and salt water. Fabolous. Will go on forever.
97p   (tasted 2022/11)



NV Amontillado Bota Unica 2/2, S. Roberto, Barbadillo
A very deep, complex nose with notes of candied orange peel, stale nuts, band aid and chrushed rocks. The same characteristics as the wine above but not that intense.
The taste is also almost the same as the 1/2 but it doesn´t reach that height. Very impressive though.
94p   (tasted 2022/11)

NV Palo Cortado Bota Unica 1/1, S. Roberto, Barbadillo
Probably a wine for The ten most memorable of the year when I will make that list in January. The nose is a dream with a stunning intensity and nobility, with notes of red apples, earth, iodine, old tobacco and assorted nuts. Brilliant.
The taste is too intense, too layered, too perfect to describe. I can´t remember tasting a better Sherry. Impressive. 
99p   (tasted 2022/11)


A Sweet Ending
2018 Molino Real, Telmo Rodriguez
A high, sweet nose with notes of dried apricots, grilled lemons, warm grass and dried honey.
The taste is semisweet and creamy with notes of peaches, grilled lemons, birch sap and honey cakes. A tad heavy in the finish. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2022/11)